Fix It Again Tomorrow - Street Sleeper
Discussion
Mr Tidy said:
I just found this - fantastic job!
Just a thought but didn't the Fiat Croma and Lancia Thema use this engine as well?
If you could find one that really would be a sleeper.
Hope there will be an update when you get some time.
Thanks, yes the Lampredi Twin cam was shared between many models over the years; Croma, Thema, Dedra, Delta and Coupe all had the version with balancer shafts, some with 8v heads, some 16v. There were older designs and versions of the engine too, these were used in the 131, 124 and others. Some people are taking the newer 16v (integrale type) head and putting it on the 131 type block, apparently the main bolts holes line up, but it's not something i've done personally - just the heads for a few of them.Just a thought but didn't the Fiat Croma and Lancia Thema use this engine as well?
If you could find one that really would be a sleeper.
Hope there will be an update when you get some time.
The 8v head was overlooked by many (including me years ago) in pursuit of more power and efficiency which to be fair the 16v head does provide, but the old 8 design is capable of quite a lot given the correct treatment. This is one on standard cambelts:
And one with a wider belt kit I developed:
I've had a few on the flowbench now and made it work quite well. The most notable one went to Norway to a chap called Glenn who I worked with (remotely) on his 'Project Dedra', this is proper Sleeper material and he was a great guy to work with, very receptive to instruction and plenty of good ideas himself too being a mechanic and competing in Motorsport.
Between us we created the Worlds most powerful Dedra at 485bhp, I'm not sure, but this may be the most anyone has ever got from the 8v engine which was used in most of the cars mentioned earlier (not Coupe), including the integrale too of course.
You can read an overview on my blog here:
http://deltaparts1.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/8v-power...
A result like that had us breaking out the really posh Jaffa cakes:
Along with some home made real cider....
I'd forgotten about this thread tbh and didn't realise how many interesting projects i'd been involved in lately, if anyones vaguely interested i'll write some more up later.
Evoluzione said:
I'd forgotten about this thread tbh and didn't realise how many interesting projects i'd been involved in lately, if anyones vaguely interested i'll write some more up later.
Please do, this sort of stuff is always interesting.I had an early Integrale, it and the Exige are the only 2 cars I regret selling. I sold my Integrale for £4k as I was living in London, just didn't get any use from it and they really don't like sitting about for weeks on end (in fact I sold both the Lancia and the Lotus at the bottom of their depreciation curve, I seem to be good at that, I wince when I go past Walkers at what they're asking for Integrales these days).
Ok i'll put some stuff together, we have a wide audience here on PH so probably a bit of everything 
I don't think i've got much interesting Coupe stuff Hoops, a couple of pics of one of todays Coupe delights here though, chap was driving it around like this for a few weeks:
No pad, piston hanging out, no brake fluid. I put a litre of oil in the engine and it only just began to show on the dipstick.
I don't think i've got much interesting Coupe stuff Hoops, a couple of pics of one of todays Coupe delights here though, chap was driving it around like this for a few weeks:
No pad, piston hanging out, no brake fluid. I put a litre of oil in the engine and it only just began to show on the dipstick.
carinaman said:
Was that a rear pad it was missing? That would make it very slightly less dodgy.
'In mitigation M'lud it was a rear brake pad that was missing....
Yes just the rear, I believe it had the stopping distance of a Supertanker, but not sure - I didn't drive it, not even into the workshop!'In mitigation M'lud it was a rear brake pad that was missing....
Trust me, I could entertain you at length with tales of this guy alone, I think I only entertain him because he entertains me.
He is the kind that goes to a Steak House with his own piece of Rump in a bag and asks them to cook it for him.
Then complains at the service charge....
Evoluzione said:
Trust me, I could entertain you at length with tales of this guy alone, I think I only entertain him because he entertains me.
Your customer makes me feel slightly less inept. I've only had one engine fail due to oil starvation. I think I learnt my lesson on that one.I've always liked Coupes and this has done nothing to stop that.
The 16V Turbo had a 'viscodrive' differential? What are they like with age and mileage? Your tweaks just consume any stickiness left in the diffs?
The Norwegian mechanic with the Dedra is running a Quaife?
'NATS'
That just makes me think of Air Traffic Control at Swannick. Seems to fit an ink black Coupe running pump fuel with some additives.
carinaman said:
Your customer makes me feel slightly less inept. I've only had one engine fail due to oil starvation. I think I learnt my lesson on that one.
I've always liked Coupes and this has done nothing to stop that.
The 16V Turbo had a 'viscodrive' differential? What are they like with age and mileage? Your tweaks just consume any stickiness left in the diffs?
The Norwegian mechanic with the Dedra is running a Quaife?
'NATS'
That just makes me think of Air Traffic Control at Swannick. Seems to fit an ink black Coupe running pump fuel with some additives.
I've always liked Coupes and this has done nothing to stop that.
The 16V Turbo had a 'viscodrive' differential? What are they like with age and mileage? Your tweaks just consume any stickiness left in the diffs?
The Norwegian mechanic with the Dedra is running a Quaife?
'NATS'
That just makes me think of Air Traffic Control at Swannick. Seems to fit an ink black Coupe running pump fuel with some additives.
The Viscodrive isn't up to much tbh, we call it Discodrive; when you're running enough power the front end just dances all over the place.
As you can see it's just a small drum shaped device on the O/S driveshaft, not a diff (it's got normal open diff in the 'box). Filled with a viscous silicone fluid and plates, it's sealed from the factory and they seem to last ok. They aren't very effective though, and the Q2 diff which is an improvement is just a bit better. It depends how far up the ladder you want to go with the car I guess, from road car to full on high powered race car, the former will overcome them both and need a proper diff fitting - Vincent D has one fitted to his 156 race car, I'll mention that later.
I don't know what Glen is using in his Dedra tbh, not something we discussed apart from him using a plate to strengthen the 'box, I was just asked to sort the engine out. I send a fair bit to Norway, this is Torbens 8v:
.......In the UK before he exported it out there, sadly it didn't last long before the um, 'highly modified' engine expired.
Anyhow in the meantime whilst i'm making right the bits on 'Nats' and idly playing on the 'net whilst getting my lunch I google the number plate, it comes up with a conversation about the car and a link to a photo album where I see this:
Which is from the same photo album as Torbens 'grale, yep, they were both once owned by the same person.
evoluzione: would you be able to point me to the direction/source for a very cheap/free broken engine and gearbox? I have an Elise chassis sitting around, I'd like to try a fit. Do you know the weight of the engine by any chance (or if it is, generally, a light or heavy engine)?
I've tried VAG 1.8s and Honda lumps in the Elise, I'd like to try something different. I don;t think the 16v has any complicated variable valve system, so I guess many aftermarket ECU (emerald) can be made to work, or is there a preferred choice for these engines?
Thanks a lot
I've tried VAG 1.8s and Honda lumps in the Elise, I'd like to try something different. I don;t think the 16v has any complicated variable valve system, so I guess many aftermarket ECU (emerald) can be made to work, or is there a preferred choice for these engines?
Thanks a lot
gianlu said:
evoluzione: would you be able to point me to the direction/source for a very cheap/free broken engine and gearbox? I have an Elise chassis sitting around, I'd like to try a fit. Do you know the weight of the engine by any chance (or if it is, generally, a light or heavy engine)?
I've tried VAG 1.8s and Honda lumps in the Elise, I'd like to try something different. I don;t think the 16v has any complicated variable valve system, so I guess many aftermarket ECU (emerald) can be made to work, or is there a preferred choice for these engines?
Thanks a lot
Given you are approx 200 miles away from me no!I've tried VAG 1.8s and Honda lumps in the Elise, I'd like to try something different. I don;t think the 16v has any complicated variable valve system, so I guess many aftermarket ECU (emerald) can be made to work, or is there a preferred choice for these engines?
Thanks a lot
I don't have a total weight, just some components, but they are heavy. The advantage is strength of course, but with a very sturdy cast iron block and similarly strong, but alloy head I would suspect it could be a bit of a boat anchor in an Elise.
From an ECU POV; catered for already and yes relatively simple to get running.
We have a very broad readership here on PH so I've tried to include a few different things of interest at various levels.
I enjoy writing when I'm in the mood and it took a few weeks of various attempts to get it to this, I hope it reads ok. It's a bit late as i'm completing this so i'll probably have to do a few edits!
This is an interesting project I have recently been involved with, it started off with a phone call: "Can you build me an engine which will do 600+ bhp and 9000rpm?"
Feck yeah, right up my Strasse...
A bit of small talk and away we went, made a pleasant change
It soon came to light that not only was he soon to be on his third engine, but he'd also had previous dealings with another specialist, a rather large amount of money had resulted in only an alleged* 410bhp which quite quickly ended up looking like this on it's first track outing:
The turbo used then and now is a GT35, capable of 600+bhp, when I looked at the way the engine had been specced and built I was shocked, but not surprised it wasn't making much power and proving frustrating to drive, it was atrocious.
The owner is a bit of a thrill seeker to say the least, the type who lobs himself out of a plane not intending to open his 'chute for a while, I think it's important to get to know the client a bit as you can tailor the package to their needs, indeed what we needed here was something that was like being hit round the head with a sledgehammer and be just as unbreakable.
So we started again, not much was salvageable from the last engine as you can imagine, the crankshaft, cam cover and intake manifold I think!
Beautiful (and expensive!) Arrows rods bent and with elongated little ends, so much was the distorting force there were scorch marks around them.
What I found really odd was hammer marks inside the bearing housing:
Who takes a hammer to over a grands worth of rods? I guess we'll never know the answer to that one.
New block and head:
We're going to need all the bore wall thickness we can get for this amount of boost/power.
New head and lightened valves:
The head is ported here and with new Trojan valve seats on the exhaust:
It's a much better material as It's hard wearing and transfers the extreme heat this will see, the new guides are made from this too.
A bit on porting
People still say 'Port n polish'. Shine and polish is the last thing you want on an inlet port, the rougher the better here - the actual finish from a carbide burr is ideal, but try convincing a customer that! It's difficult to get tidy, uniform and coarse, but it can be done. If you are doing your own ports just leave them rough, I do.
Shiny exhaust ports and polished combustion chambers maybe? Forget that too, ok, no downside as such, but just don't waste your time, it's 90% about shape. The minute you turn the key it's covered in soot and carbon, it builds up and no amount of polish will stop that, in fact it's a useful insulator.
Another common misconception about porting is that it's just about making them bigger; 'opening up the ports a bit' they will say. Again, it's about shape as well as size and knowing where to make the port bigger (if at all).
A flowbench can be made to do so much more than many realise. Its basic job is to measure CFM (cubic feet per minute) which is how much air is flowing through the port, with a probe attached to one like ours you can also measure velocity in different places which is of course the speed of the inlet charge. If you enlarge the port too much the speed will drop, go too small and it will choke, it's a careful balancing act made even more complicated by the fact that airspeed changes throughout the port! It favours some areas more than others, you can actually fill in 'dead spots' which are too large and widen the busy areas to help things along. By changing the contours in certain places we can manipulate it to get closer to what we need. Manipulate and help yes, you certainly can't force it to go where it doesn't want to go.
Here is some smoke testing I did on an 8v head. I know where the air is going and where it wants to go, but did this to prove it and so everyone else can actually see it. This is the kind of test you need a big draughty workshop for and also do it last thing before you go home!
You can see how the majority of flow hugs the side of the port, the manifold complements this feature and actually sets it up for the turn. Why is this? Well in a two valve per cylinder head you need 'swirl' as this makes for good mixture motion, it's what makes it burn very effectively and comprehensively as it's winding itself down the bore.
Here you can see more proof of what is actually happening, you can see how the smoke has left a deposit on the parts where it is most concentrated. In contrast to that 4 valve heads cause the mixture to tumble as it goes into the cylinder, mixture motion in the chamber is important and these are the two basic ones.
Here I am making another flowbench tool:
Basically it's a valve made from aluminium, but it's rifle drilled down the length with another drilling from the seat across to connect up the hole. The idea here is that I fit it to the head when it's on the flowbench, set it to mid, full lift or whatever and put a pipe on the top of it, this goes to the digital box which converts the vacuum caused by the passing air into figures on the screen. What this means is that I can turn the valve around to various points (360' or like a clock face) and take a reading at say every 30' or so. This allows me to plot on a diagram where the airflow is very precisely and work from there.
^^ Here is a valve opening tool, it's basically a blank cam which I bolt in place and use the M10 x 1 bolts to open the valves. Why 1mm pitch? Well one turn = 1mm of valve lift so it's easy to use and record the results.
When you disassemble an OE built engine study carefully what you see, aside from carbon build up was it blathered in sealant? Unlikely! Apart from some areas like those which may carry water, be a bit corroded and certain gaskets you don't need it either, leave it to the bodgers. If you must use it then do so very sparingly, you don't want it falling off into the engine.
Lightened valve train components here:
Standard valve springs, heavy components, high lift cams and high RPM? Good chance of engine failure
Coilbound at 12mm of lift, round about where we want to be on the inlet cam.
Steel 8 weight crank is unlikely to be bent, but clock it up anyhow, you never know what your dealing with:
End float:
You do not leave anything to chance regardless if it's stock or at any other output, it's laborious, but has to be done, take absolutely nothing for granted, the buck stops here! The bearing or piston manufacturer won't be bailing you out if it goes tits up, even if it's their fault. I think this is where many a lot of amatuer builds fail, there is just no point in investing in hundreds or thousands of pounds worth of measuring equipment for one or two builds so risks get taken.
Oilways are modded here and M12 ARP studs holding the crank caps down:
I don't know who made that thing, it was a bit numb, but does the job though I guess.
Comparison in piston weights, the outgoing and incoming forged:
Comparison of OE rod, piston and the new ones, look carefully and you can see the longer rod and the piston pin pushed right up to the ringlands. Longer rod = more dwell at TDC and more power? No, just allows a shorter piston and creates less vibration.
Block bored out for ARP M12 studs:
Rods balanced:
Timing up the cams with new wider belt fitted:
All cams are designed in house, I haven't used off-the-shelf profiles for years, when you have a flowbench you know what the port is flowing and at what lifts so can spec your cams to suit.
Just about there now!
I was quite happy with the exhaust manifold that came with this car, good size and well formed. It made my life hard at the front though cramming a big rad and intercooler in there without altering the look of the car. I say this because a lot of people can't do it and you see cars without front grilles, bumpers cut to bits, turbos and intercoolers hanging out the front etc.
Not so much the intercooler, that was never going to do the job. There is a fuller explanation on my blog, but to be brief an intercooler has to meet two basic criteria - the first is obvious, the second one gets forgotten and that is it has to flow enough air for the engine to breathe. You have to consider the Cross Sectional Area of the intercooler - and the correct way too, that is across the way the air flows through it.
A standard integrale intercooler measures 3 x 8 and (roughly) half of that is open tubes so 3 x 8 x .5 = 12sq in, this is your CSA.
The cooler we took off was 2 x 8 (x .5) so 8sq in. Yes, amazingly people are paying big money for intercoolers which flow less air than the original.
Good Lord.
When the engine was finished the guy then asked me to fit it and take it for mapping, I took this on as I didn't like to say no and part of me wanted to see the job through. I was reticent though as this part is always difficult as you are out of the comfort zone, no longer in complete control, you are working with other people, their parts and it often doesn't gel very well.
^^ Chinese copy FPR against a genuine one, it failed part way through so mapping session was aborted.
Someone else had wired the ECU, piped the fuel pumps, provided a Chinese FPR, piped the ext wastegate, hammered and broken a few bits and pieces here and there, old crispy wiring, but we worked through it bit by bit and eventually saw 610bhp and 540ft/lbs of torque which I think makes it the most powerful in the UK.
Bit of crappy footage here:
You might wonder why the power curve flatlines at its peak, this is due to it hitting the limit of the map sensor, if it had one installed which read higher we could have seen around another 50bhp. As you can see it spooled pretty early and came on hard and fast, with 4wd it's what you want - with some fiddling with electronic boost control it could be tamed a bit for wet use, but I was asked to build it for drag racing.
It hits so hard and early that the guys at the dyno would not believe me nor the guy whos car it was that it was a GT35, they thought it was a GT30 and had to get under the car to have a look to confirm.
Integrales are by nature, almost bulging at the seams, this one certainly is and then some.
I can only sum the acceleration up in one word; brutal. It's certainly entertaining! In a short space of time your neck muscles are starting to ache from holding your head upright, exactly how long the rest of the car will cope with this under the bonnet I don't know, I do know it won't be long though!
On another note, Project Sausage has been dragged out of its slumber and is being dusted down for some track fun this year, I've never done Blyton before so looking forward to it.
I enjoy writing when I'm in the mood and it took a few weeks of various attempts to get it to this, I hope it reads ok. It's a bit late as i'm completing this so i'll probably have to do a few edits!
This is an interesting project I have recently been involved with, it started off with a phone call: "Can you build me an engine which will do 600+ bhp and 9000rpm?"
Feck yeah, right up my Strasse...
A bit of small talk and away we went, made a pleasant change
It soon came to light that not only was he soon to be on his third engine, but he'd also had previous dealings with another specialist, a rather large amount of money had resulted in only an alleged* 410bhp which quite quickly ended up looking like this on it's first track outing:
The turbo used then and now is a GT35, capable of 600+bhp, when I looked at the way the engine had been specced and built I was shocked, but not surprised it wasn't making much power and proving frustrating to drive, it was atrocious.
- I said alleged above, this is because when we looked at the map there wasn't enough fuel in for that amount of power.
The owner is a bit of a thrill seeker to say the least, the type who lobs himself out of a plane not intending to open his 'chute for a while, I think it's important to get to know the client a bit as you can tailor the package to their needs, indeed what we needed here was something that was like being hit round the head with a sledgehammer and be just as unbreakable.
So we started again, not much was salvageable from the last engine as you can imagine, the crankshaft, cam cover and intake manifold I think!
Beautiful (and expensive!) Arrows rods bent and with elongated little ends, so much was the distorting force there were scorch marks around them.
What I found really odd was hammer marks inside the bearing housing:
Who takes a hammer to over a grands worth of rods? I guess we'll never know the answer to that one.
New block and head:
We're going to need all the bore wall thickness we can get for this amount of boost/power.
New head and lightened valves:
The head is ported here and with new Trojan valve seats on the exhaust:
It's a much better material as It's hard wearing and transfers the extreme heat this will see, the new guides are made from this too.
A bit on porting
People still say 'Port n polish'. Shine and polish is the last thing you want on an inlet port, the rougher the better here - the actual finish from a carbide burr is ideal, but try convincing a customer that! It's difficult to get tidy, uniform and coarse, but it can be done. If you are doing your own ports just leave them rough, I do.
Shiny exhaust ports and polished combustion chambers maybe? Forget that too, ok, no downside as such, but just don't waste your time, it's 90% about shape. The minute you turn the key it's covered in soot and carbon, it builds up and no amount of polish will stop that, in fact it's a useful insulator.
Another common misconception about porting is that it's just about making them bigger; 'opening up the ports a bit' they will say. Again, it's about shape as well as size and knowing where to make the port bigger (if at all).
A flowbench can be made to do so much more than many realise. Its basic job is to measure CFM (cubic feet per minute) which is how much air is flowing through the port, with a probe attached to one like ours you can also measure velocity in different places which is of course the speed of the inlet charge. If you enlarge the port too much the speed will drop, go too small and it will choke, it's a careful balancing act made even more complicated by the fact that airspeed changes throughout the port! It favours some areas more than others, you can actually fill in 'dead spots' which are too large and widen the busy areas to help things along. By changing the contours in certain places we can manipulate it to get closer to what we need. Manipulate and help yes, you certainly can't force it to go where it doesn't want to go.
Here is some smoke testing I did on an 8v head. I know where the air is going and where it wants to go, but did this to prove it and so everyone else can actually see it. This is the kind of test you need a big draughty workshop for and also do it last thing before you go home!
You can see how the majority of flow hugs the side of the port, the manifold complements this feature and actually sets it up for the turn. Why is this? Well in a two valve per cylinder head you need 'swirl' as this makes for good mixture motion, it's what makes it burn very effectively and comprehensively as it's winding itself down the bore.
Here you can see more proof of what is actually happening, you can see how the smoke has left a deposit on the parts where it is most concentrated. In contrast to that 4 valve heads cause the mixture to tumble as it goes into the cylinder, mixture motion in the chamber is important and these are the two basic ones.
Here I am making another flowbench tool:
Basically it's a valve made from aluminium, but it's rifle drilled down the length with another drilling from the seat across to connect up the hole. The idea here is that I fit it to the head when it's on the flowbench, set it to mid, full lift or whatever and put a pipe on the top of it, this goes to the digital box which converts the vacuum caused by the passing air into figures on the screen. What this means is that I can turn the valve around to various points (360' or like a clock face) and take a reading at say every 30' or so. This allows me to plot on a diagram where the airflow is very precisely and work from there.
^^ Here is a valve opening tool, it's basically a blank cam which I bolt in place and use the M10 x 1 bolts to open the valves. Why 1mm pitch? Well one turn = 1mm of valve lift so it's easy to use and record the results.
When you disassemble an OE built engine study carefully what you see, aside from carbon build up was it blathered in sealant? Unlikely! Apart from some areas like those which may carry water, be a bit corroded and certain gaskets you don't need it either, leave it to the bodgers. If you must use it then do so very sparingly, you don't want it falling off into the engine.
Lightened valve train components here:
Standard valve springs, heavy components, high lift cams and high RPM? Good chance of engine failure
Coilbound at 12mm of lift, round about where we want to be on the inlet cam.
Steel 8 weight crank is unlikely to be bent, but clock it up anyhow, you never know what your dealing with:
End float:
You do not leave anything to chance regardless if it's stock or at any other output, it's laborious, but has to be done, take absolutely nothing for granted, the buck stops here! The bearing or piston manufacturer won't be bailing you out if it goes tits up, even if it's their fault. I think this is where many a lot of amatuer builds fail, there is just no point in investing in hundreds or thousands of pounds worth of measuring equipment for one or two builds so risks get taken.
Oilways are modded here and M12 ARP studs holding the crank caps down:
I don't know who made that thing, it was a bit numb, but does the job though I guess.
Comparison in piston weights, the outgoing and incoming forged:
Comparison of OE rod, piston and the new ones, look carefully and you can see the longer rod and the piston pin pushed right up to the ringlands. Longer rod = more dwell at TDC and more power? No, just allows a shorter piston and creates less vibration.
Block bored out for ARP M12 studs:
Rods balanced:
Timing up the cams with new wider belt fitted:
All cams are designed in house, I haven't used off-the-shelf profiles for years, when you have a flowbench you know what the port is flowing and at what lifts so can spec your cams to suit.
Just about there now!
I was quite happy with the exhaust manifold that came with this car, good size and well formed. It made my life hard at the front though cramming a big rad and intercooler in there without altering the look of the car. I say this because a lot of people can't do it and you see cars without front grilles, bumpers cut to bits, turbos and intercoolers hanging out the front etc.
Not so much the intercooler, that was never going to do the job. There is a fuller explanation on my blog, but to be brief an intercooler has to meet two basic criteria - the first is obvious, the second one gets forgotten and that is it has to flow enough air for the engine to breathe. You have to consider the Cross Sectional Area of the intercooler - and the correct way too, that is across the way the air flows through it.
A standard integrale intercooler measures 3 x 8 and (roughly) half of that is open tubes so 3 x 8 x .5 = 12sq in, this is your CSA.
The cooler we took off was 2 x 8 (x .5) so 8sq in. Yes, amazingly people are paying big money for intercoolers which flow less air than the original.
Good Lord.
When the engine was finished the guy then asked me to fit it and take it for mapping, I took this on as I didn't like to say no and part of me wanted to see the job through. I was reticent though as this part is always difficult as you are out of the comfort zone, no longer in complete control, you are working with other people, their parts and it often doesn't gel very well.
^^ Chinese copy FPR against a genuine one, it failed part way through so mapping session was aborted.
Someone else had wired the ECU, piped the fuel pumps, provided a Chinese FPR, piped the ext wastegate, hammered and broken a few bits and pieces here and there, old crispy wiring, but we worked through it bit by bit and eventually saw 610bhp and 540ft/lbs of torque which I think makes it the most powerful in the UK.
Bit of crappy footage here:
You might wonder why the power curve flatlines at its peak, this is due to it hitting the limit of the map sensor, if it had one installed which read higher we could have seen around another 50bhp. As you can see it spooled pretty early and came on hard and fast, with 4wd it's what you want - with some fiddling with electronic boost control it could be tamed a bit for wet use, but I was asked to build it for drag racing.
It hits so hard and early that the guys at the dyno would not believe me nor the guy whos car it was that it was a GT35, they thought it was a GT30 and had to get under the car to have a look to confirm.
Integrales are by nature, almost bulging at the seams, this one certainly is and then some.
I can only sum the acceleration up in one word; brutal. It's certainly entertaining! In a short space of time your neck muscles are starting to ache from holding your head upright, exactly how long the rest of the car will cope with this under the bonnet I don't know, I do know it won't be long though!
On another note, Project Sausage has been dragged out of its slumber and is being dusted down for some track fun this year, I've never done Blyton before so looking forward to it.
Edited by Evoluzione on Friday 3rd April 09:56
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