2003 Honda Civic Type-R 30th Anniversary
Discussion
yllos said:
I have plastic windows too matey!
You have composite doors as well??
No, the rules of our championship say the body as to be factory parts, however the doors are literally the skin and frame with everything (including the locks) pulled off and a carbon sheet fixed over the hole. Even the re-inforcement on the bonnet and tailgate has been removed. You have composite doors as well??
TobyLaRohne said:
No, the rules of our championship say the body as to be factory parts, however the doors are literally the skin and frame with everything (including the locks) pulled off and a carbon sheet fixed over the hole. Even the re-inforcement on the bonnet and tailgate has been removed.
Ah nice! Wanting to get mine weighed once I have it sorted, hoping it is under the 1000kg markyllos said:
Ah nice! Wanting to get mine weighed once I have it sorted, hoping it is under the 1000kg mark
You should manage it if you make sure you're low on fuel, from what I see your car doesnt look too different to mine.I'd love to get a flat undertray and splitter and diffuser and a BTCC kit but the rules again say its not allowed unless the car came with them, (great for the Elise that runs with us, bad for the other cars).
so, what are the plans for more power that you have mentioned?TobyLaRohne said:
You should manage it if you make sure you're low on fuel, from what I see your car doesnt look too different to mine.
I'd love to get a flat undertray and splitter and diffuser and a BTCC kit but the rules again say its not allowed unless the car came with them, (great for the Elise that runs with us, bad for the other cars).
Prefer to have a full tank in it and still hit 1000kg :PI'd love to get a flat undertray and splitter and diffuser and a BTCC kit but the rules again say its not allowed unless the car came with them, (great for the Elise that runs with us, bad for the other cars).
The headlights and mugen spliter really ruin it for me, with facelift headlights and normal Type R bumper it will look like a serious bit of kit, atm it does look very barry boy.
I am envious of the rest of the car though, I would love to get them carbon parts I bet the weight saving is amazing.
I am envious of the rest of the car though, I would love to get them carbon parts I bet the weight saving is amazing.
Stuart_D said:
The headlights and mugen spliter really ruin it for me, with facelift headlights and normal Type R bumper it will look like a serious bit of kit, atm it does look very barry boy.
I am envious of the rest of the car though, I would love to get them carbon parts I bet the weight saving is amazing.
Everything is there for a purpose. Function > form.I am envious of the rest of the car though, I would love to get them carbon parts I bet the weight saving is amazing.
Headlights are there for a cooling duct.
Splitter is there to allow me to run a proper splitter attached to it as the stock splitter sits too high.
That's a quality build with some seriously nice kit.
A mate of mine has a EP3 quite similar to yours with the carbon bonnet, boot but he was having trouble locating doors an wings so i'd be grateful if you could share some details.
Oh, when you rebuilt the gearbox, did you put a limited slip diff in ?? My mate has a KAZZ diff and it has made an enormous difference, combined with toyo 888s the turn in/grip is incredible.
A mate of mine has a EP3 quite similar to yours with the carbon bonnet, boot but he was having trouble locating doors an wings so i'd be grateful if you could share some details.
Oh, when you rebuilt the gearbox, did you put a limited slip diff in ?? My mate has a KAZZ diff and it has made an enormous difference, combined with toyo 888s the turn in/grip is incredible.
aka_kerrly said:
That's a quality build with some seriously nice kit.
A mate of mine has a EP3 quite similar to yours with the carbon bonnet, boot but he was having trouble locating doors an wings so i'd be grateful if you could share some details.
Oh, when you rebuilt the gearbox, did you put a limited slip diff in ?? My mate has a KAZZ diff and it has made an enormous difference, combined with toyo 888s the turn in/grip is incredible.
Thanks mate. It has an os-giken diff in it. Luckily it was ok after clutch let go so in the rebuild I will re use that along with a lower final drive and some carbon synchrosA mate of mine has a EP3 quite similar to yours with the carbon bonnet, boot but he was having trouble locating doors an wings so i'd be grateful if you could share some details.
Oh, when you rebuilt the gearbox, did you put a limited slip diff in ?? My mate has a KAZZ diff and it has made an enormous difference, combined with toyo 888s the turn in/grip is incredible.
The doors are from seibon. Around 1400 quid each new
aka_kerrly said:
My mate has a KAZZ diff and it has made an enormous difference, combined with toyo 888s the turn in/grip is incredible.
Amen to that! I run the factory diff and R888's and 4.5 degrees of camber up front and 2 at the back, although not practical for road use, on track I can pull people in all sorts of exotic cars! If I had another 100bhp like this beastie I'd be king! 
Must have spent a small fortune
TobyLaRohne said:
aka_kerrly said:
My mate has a KAZZ diff and it has made an enormous difference, combined with toyo 888s the turn in/grip is incredible.
Amen to that! I run the factory diff and R888's and 4.5 degrees of camber up front and 2 at the back, although not practical for road use, on track I can pull people in all sorts of exotic cars! If I had another 100bhp like this beastie I'd be king! My friend's runs 2.5* neg front and 2* out back. It's got a Rotrex charger on it to which runs circa 360hp/240ft tq so there have been a fair few occasions when we have gone flying past all sorts of cars which the owners don't expect to be slower than a CTR. We pushed a 450hp Scooby P1 around Castle Combe for a bit on our last outing prior to the Scooby missing the chicane - trying too hard!
I've been VERY impressed by the EP3!!
OP I hope you don't mind answering a couple of questions on your thread? I'll by all means make this my last reply about my car if you do.
Typically I run 32PSI cold on the front and between 28 and 30PSI on the rear (which they run at 39-41PSI when upto temp).
4.5 degrees is alot but you have to bare in mind this is a dedicated touring car. So far the results have been fantastic with it as it is and I was told by the previous owner who ran it with great success that I should never go less than 4 degrees on the front.
The old seat was out of date for FIA rules when I bought it so I had to take it out and replace it with a new one.The steering wheel has since been replaced too, but that was just because it had seen better days.
Typically I run 32PSI cold on the front and between 28 and 30PSI on the rear (which they run at 39-41PSI when upto temp).
4.5 degrees is alot but you have to bare in mind this is a dedicated touring car. So far the results have been fantastic with it as it is and I was told by the previous owner who ran it with great success that I should never go less than 4 degrees on the front.
The old seat was out of date for FIA rules when I bought it so I had to take it out and replace it with a new one.The steering wheel has since been replaced too, but that was just because it had seen better days.
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