Peugeot 205 Saloon Libre - RWD Space-Frame Silhouette Racer
Discussion
The arches will be part of the wheel tubs, which will be bonded to the wings / 1/4 panels, if that makes sense. I figure they will get damaged easily from stone pickup / scrub / shunts, so best not to make them part of the one-piece clam otherwise it'll be a nightmare to replace them.
Assuming this car will run super low, do you need to cut the arches "UP" into the outer wings to allow for the tops of the arch inner "tubs" to clear??
(It's starting to look pretty good btw ;-)
ETA: It would easily be possible to make two clams, front and rear, a lightweight racing one with the lights all blanked out, and a Road / trackday one with some suitable light fittings, er fitted!
(It's starting to look pretty good btw ;-)
ETA: It would easily be possible to make two clams, front and rear, a lightweight racing one with the lights all blanked out, and a Road / trackday one with some suitable light fittings, er fitted!
Max_Torque said:
Assuming this car will run super low, do you need to cut the arches "UP" into the outer wings to allow for the tops of the arch inner "tubs" to clear??
(It's starting to look pretty good btw ;-)
ETA: It would easily be possible to make two clams, front and rear, a lightweight racing one with the lights all blanked out, and a Road / trackday one with some suitable light fittings, er fitted!
That, sir, is a bloody good idea. I can always make one with headlamps in the future, but for now I am keeping things simple to get it running asap. (It's starting to look pretty good btw ;-)
ETA: It would easily be possible to make two clams, front and rear, a lightweight racing one with the lights all blanked out, and a Road / trackday one with some suitable light fittings, er fitted!
Ground clearance is 68mm, so pretty low! I don't want to run it on the road as I'll just beach it everywhere! Yes the arches will be cut upwards significantly..
CamMoreRon said:
but for now I am keeping things simple to get it running asap.
Correct answer. It's always best, ime, to get a car up and running before going too far. There WILL be a load of stuff that needs changing or modifying or re-optimising after the first few runs as you learn about how the car works as a complete "system". Get it running ASAP, then go from there ;-)
Exactly. If you go trying to make things too complex on a first build like this you're asking for trouble! I want the car to be as simple as possible because I want a raw driving experience, reflective of the car's era; light weight, and simple maintenance.
The car is very much staying on its jig until I have all the welding sorted! I see too many builds where people rush to paint, then have to grind it back or cut it apart to fit something to it.
The car is very much staying on its jig until I have all the welding sorted! I see too many builds where people rush to paint, then have to grind it back or cut it apart to fit something to it.
Edited by CamMoreRon on Tuesday 16th September 08:50
CamMoreRon said:
Exactly. If you go trying to make things too complex on a first build like this you're asking for trouble! I want the car to be as simple as possible because I want a raw driving experience, reflective of the car's era; light weight, and simple maintenance.
The car is very much staying on its jig until I have all the welding sorted! I see too many builds where people rush to paint, then have to grind it back or cut it apart to fit something to it.
If you can face it, get the car actually driving before paint! It's surprising how little time it actually takes to strip / rebuild a relatively simple competition car where all the fasteners are new and unrusted etc!The car is very much staying on its jig until I have all the welding sorted! I see too many builds where people rush to paint, then have to grind it back or cut it apart to fit something to it.
Edited by CamMoreRon on Tuesday 16th September 08:50
I would.. the only thing that worries me is that my unit is very damp in the winter months so I want the frame to be protected asap. Once the body is moulded I can cut the panels off the car and do the last few bits of welding on the chassis, then I can take it to be blasted and coated. I'll make sure it functions as a rolling chassis before I do that though; I have a couple of modifications to make already to get better angles on some spherical joints.
Once I'm there, the job list is comparatively short! Engine build is a few days of work.. the last big projects will be exhaust, plumbing and wiring. I really hope to get it going early next year. Of course the big hold up as always is raising the cash!
Once I'm there, the job list is comparatively short! Engine build is a few days of work.. the last big projects will be exhaust, plumbing and wiring. I really hope to get it going early next year. Of course the big hold up as always is raising the cash!
Robmarriott said:
I have a digital camera I don't use which you can have FOC if you send me your address.
Thanks for the offer! I have a digi camera, it's just my PC's HDD was failing so I had to stop using it until I had a new one or risk losing all my CAD & CAE work!I got a new HDD yesterday and rescued all my work, so while it's on and I'm copying everything over I'll do a quick update..
The rear end is now filled and blocked down.
I got tired of using blocks of wood for sanding, so bought a Dura Block kit from Frost.. it's amazing how much difference using the right tools makes! I got the back smoothed out much quicker than the front.Highly recommend these!
This pic doesn't show the finished rear end.. I'll try and get a pic up early this week once I've sorted my PC, but I've smoothed the areas in front of the wheel arches and also finished shaping the badge recess.
Then while I was waiting for filler to dry I had a go at blocking out the high build on the front end. It's only one coat so still a few low spots, but I'll hopefully get my spray equipment up and running in the next few weeks so I can get a few coats of proper 2k high build on there and block it properly.
I had hoped to start taking moulds by the end of September, but the spray gear has cost a lot of money so it's unlikely I'll have the cash for materials.
CamMoreRon said:
...my PC's HDD was failing so I had to stop using it until I had a new one or risk losing all my CAD & CAE work!
I got a new HDD yesterday and rescued all my work...
It's not a matter of if a HDD will fail but when.I got a new HDD yesterday and rescued all my work...
I have all my stuff duplicated on two separate HDDs. One copy is on an external drive that I rotate every six weeks or so with another kept off site.
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