My BMW M3 Evolution Imola Individual GT2 Journal
Discussion
mboon said:
You need a new thermostat!Mine (evo although not a GT!) does the same!
Update;
Got the car out today as the weather was lovely. Had a man and car day. Ages ago I bought the o ring to fix the power steering leak I had. The power steering started making a noise where it was low so decided today was the day.
This is what I could see which annoyed me.
So air box out
Cap off and the tank cleaned
Cap cleaned
O ring replaced
Fluid topped up and cap back on
And all back together
Power steering is now silent and no leaks. Car drove lovely again, goes like stink and so persist. Love it
Got the car out today as the weather was lovely. Had a man and car day. Ages ago I bought the o ring to fix the power steering leak I had. The power steering started making a noise where it was low so decided today was the day.
This is what I could see which annoyed me.
So air box out
Cap off and the tank cleaned
Cap cleaned
O ring replaced
Fluid topped up and cap back on
And all back together
Power steering is now silent and no leaks. Car drove lovely again, goes like stink and so persist. Love it
I pulled the old girl out today and decided to take her down to my local BMW Specialist and ask a couple questions.
Says it all really.
I have a weep from one of the vanos covers (left hand side when stood at the front of the engine) I have a sheared bolt on this cover as well which I looked at before (see above previous post)
After a good chat we decided to replace all seals and gaskets in the vanos which is costing around the £300 mark. The vanos is nice and quiet and was replaced with a brand new one in 2007 (£2500 from BMW just for the part) He also confirmed that back in the day BMW recalled the Evo for the bolts, he said the new bolts they supply should be uprated so we are going with all new BMW bolts and seals to keep it original.
I have also ordered these items in
Locking door actuators (used and bought from a friend who breaks these cars, didnt fancy a hong kong version. And the covers for the top seat belt bolts. One of mine is missing and little things like this do my head in.
I have also ordered in a load of new interior fixing clips for the door cards and some Glipton leather conditioner.
She is currently sat on the drive looking stunning! Took it for a quick blast to get her up to temps etc and love it.
Says it all really.
I have a weep from one of the vanos covers (left hand side when stood at the front of the engine) I have a sheared bolt on this cover as well which I looked at before (see above previous post)
After a good chat we decided to replace all seals and gaskets in the vanos which is costing around the £300 mark. The vanos is nice and quiet and was replaced with a brand new one in 2007 (£2500 from BMW just for the part) He also confirmed that back in the day BMW recalled the Evo for the bolts, he said the new bolts they supply should be uprated so we are going with all new BMW bolts and seals to keep it original.
I have also ordered these items in
Locking door actuators (used and bought from a friend who breaks these cars, didnt fancy a hong kong version. And the covers for the top seat belt bolts. One of mine is missing and little things like this do my head in.
I have also ordered in a load of new interior fixing clips for the door cards and some Glipton leather conditioner.
She is currently sat on the drive looking stunning! Took it for a quick blast to get her up to temps etc and love it.
mboon said:
???^^^
My reference was due to the car running cold and behaving like it is going through its warm up cycle for longer than is necessary, using more fuel ( think old school choke) and potentially washing your cylinder bores with added fuel potentially causing more wear. A tits up thermostat can do that.
Central locking update
Two things were not working on my central locking, and passenger door and the boot.
The boot I tracked down to the wiring loom between the car and the boot.
And the passenger door was the lock actuator.
So this morning I stripped the tape off ai did as a quick fix and with a worried look on my face, cut all the cables in two. I stripped the cables as seen in this photo
I then slowly started soldering it all back in with the new heat shrink in place. Bloody fiddly and being colour blind didnt help but managed to get it all back togethere, tidy and more importantly working. A few pics of my progress
Next up was the passenger door actuator. I have ordered all new door trim clips as mine are broken, they have not arrived yet but couldn't be assed to wait so cracked on. Removed the door card and started fiddling with the actuator (already removed the old one)
Now these are a complete pain in the ass, trying to look up through the door through a small gap and try to gauge and line up everything is near impossible. But I think I found the mistake we all make with them.
Have a look at this photo and I will explain
Now when you look on the underside of the actuator, and look through the door, it makes you think you have a clip in the door for each corner of the actuator, you don't. I was working on my passenger door (RHD car) and it actually slips in the centre holes (near the part that moves) it only fixes on two points. Once I noticed this I clipped it in within seconds. I found it easier to do it without it being plugged in.
If I had known that, it would of took longer getting the door card off than fitting the actuator.
A few pics of it coming out ans going in.
I also fitted this, it is the little things that make a difference. It was there but has gone walkies so got another set in.
I have an alarm question. I have the two button alarm (Red and Grey button type) it was working fine, then all of a sudden, nothing. I get a light on the fob when I press the buttons but nothing from the car. Any ideas? Could my fob battery be on its last legs and causing this? I took the fob a part and it looks ok. The batterys are really old style (never seen them before)
Has anyone had this?
Cheers all
Mark
Two things were not working on my central locking, and passenger door and the boot.
The boot I tracked down to the wiring loom between the car and the boot.
And the passenger door was the lock actuator.
So this morning I stripped the tape off ai did as a quick fix and with a worried look on my face, cut all the cables in two. I stripped the cables as seen in this photo
I then slowly started soldering it all back in with the new heat shrink in place. Bloody fiddly and being colour blind didnt help but managed to get it all back togethere, tidy and more importantly working. A few pics of my progress
Next up was the passenger door actuator. I have ordered all new door trim clips as mine are broken, they have not arrived yet but couldn't be assed to wait so cracked on. Removed the door card and started fiddling with the actuator (already removed the old one)
Now these are a complete pain in the ass, trying to look up through the door through a small gap and try to gauge and line up everything is near impossible. But I think I found the mistake we all make with them.
Have a look at this photo and I will explain
Now when you look on the underside of the actuator, and look through the door, it makes you think you have a clip in the door for each corner of the actuator, you don't. I was working on my passenger door (RHD car) and it actually slips in the centre holes (near the part that moves) it only fixes on two points. Once I noticed this I clipped it in within seconds. I found it easier to do it without it being plugged in.
If I had known that, it would of took longer getting the door card off than fitting the actuator.
A few pics of it coming out ans going in.
I also fitted this, it is the little things that make a difference. It was there but has gone walkies so got another set in.
I have an alarm question. I have the two button alarm (Red and Grey button type) it was working fine, then all of a sudden, nothing. I get a light on the fob when I press the buttons but nothing from the car. Any ideas? Could my fob battery be on its last legs and causing this? I took the fob a part and it looks ok. The batterys are really old style (never seen them before)
Has anyone had this?
Cheers all
Mark
Update, brake caliper paint.
So a while ago I had to replace the front calipers as they had seized. I bought some good second hand items and got them fitted with braided hoses and new fluid.
Sadly, one was red and the other was black. Not my cup of tea
So today was alloys off and some nice satin black hamarite high temp paint to freshen the calipers up.
A few photos of the process, decided to clean the backs of the wheels out as well while they was off
And my interior clips have arrived so will get that door card sorted. She is filthy now on the outside (dust) waiting for the sun to go away so I can give her a bath
So a while ago I had to replace the front calipers as they had seized. I bought some good second hand items and got them fitted with braided hoses and new fluid.
Sadly, one was red and the other was black. Not my cup of tea
So today was alloys off and some nice satin black hamarite high temp paint to freshen the calipers up.
A few photos of the process, decided to clean the backs of the wheels out as well while they was off
And my interior clips have arrived so will get that door card sorted. She is filthy now on the outside (dust) waiting for the sun to go away so I can give her a bath
Update; Cleaned, polished, waxed, door card repaired, leather conditioned.
As mentioned above, my door card clips had broken, it was also coming off at thr top which you can see in these photos
So, removed the door card
Got the glue out
And stuck it down, taped it in place too
Let that go off while I was replacing the clips, got these off ebay
I had to modify them a bit as they was never going on the door card
Got them all on
Removed the tape and replaced the door card. Much better, no more rattles.
Next up was a clean, it has not veen used much so not road grim, just lots of dust. Got some helpers too, well they got the car wet for me ha
So cleaned it down, polished and waxed with my failthful
A couple during and after
Next up was the engine bay
Before
After
Next up was the leather. I use Glipton leather cleaner and conditioner, great stuff
Before
After
I really slapped the conditioner on, put about three coats on. I recommend this to anyone with leather, makes it smell new and grips you in the seat. It also looks much better too
Still need to find a fix for my glovebox
Any ideas?
And just some snaps of the car after the work/clean and some with my daily runaround which I will post shortly
At my specialist getting booked in
As mentioned above, my door card clips had broken, it was also coming off at thr top which you can see in these photos
So, removed the door card
Got the glue out
And stuck it down, taped it in place too
Let that go off while I was replacing the clips, got these off ebay
I had to modify them a bit as they was never going on the door card
Got them all on
Removed the tape and replaced the door card. Much better, no more rattles.
Next up was a clean, it has not veen used much so not road grim, just lots of dust. Got some helpers too, well they got the car wet for me ha
So cleaned it down, polished and waxed with my failthful
A couple during and after
Next up was the engine bay
Before
After
Next up was the leather. I use Glipton leather cleaner and conditioner, great stuff
Before
After
I really slapped the conditioner on, put about three coats on. I recommend this to anyone with leather, makes it smell new and grips you in the seat. It also looks much better too
Still need to find a fix for my glovebox
Any ideas?
And just some snaps of the car after the work/clean and some with my daily runaround which I will post shortly
At my specialist getting booked in
I had the same issue with my glove box. If you remove the unit entirely, including the vent panel - only about six screws - you should be able to see the issue with the clips. I think the problem comes as people reassemble the GB incorrectly, and don't fit it as a unit with the vents.
Has anyone reconditioned these wheels?
Mine are original from the factory and although are in good condition, couldnt help feeling they could be better to bring the appearence up a notch..
If you could post some photos of the finished wheels with polished lips, how much it cost and who did them would be great? I am looking to as close as possible to standard finish
Cheers
Mine are original from the factory and although are in good condition, couldnt help feeling they could be better to bring the appearence up a notch..
If you could post some photos of the finished wheels with polished lips, how much it cost and who did them would be great? I am looking to as close as possible to standard finish
Cheers
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff