Honda Prelude Type 'S' Supercharged K20
Discussion
would love to see this in person and show you some fantastic roads around here 
Thanks for the positive remarks guys!!
We're going to be driving to the Nurburgring & possibly Prague towards the end of the year so we may be travelling through, we stayed at a hostel there during last years road trip and it was awesome, shame we didnt stay for long though!
Daugaard: I would deffo recommend installing a K20a2 CTR engine or the K20a DC5 engine if you can stretch to it, the latter has an extra 20bhp and an LSD, tbh the extra expense is worth it for the closer ratio's, 6 speed and the feeling of the box alone!
We're going to be driving to the Nurburgring & possibly Prague towards the end of the year so we may be travelling through, we stayed at a hostel there during last years road trip and it was awesome, shame we didnt stay for long though!
Daugaard: I would deffo recommend installing a K20a2 CTR engine or the K20a DC5 engine if you can stretch to it, the latter has an extra 20bhp and an LSD, tbh the extra expense is worth it for the closer ratio's, 6 speed and the feeling of the box alone!
k me that's nice.I've not done much recently due to work & a holiday, but we managed to blast through some of it this week and got a few bits done:
1, Power steering high pressure and return lines fabricated, used one of the original Lude lines and the routing has been kept extremely neat and tidy.
2. Valve clearences done.
3. Engine/Box back together.
4. Supercharger Back on.
5. Engine back in car & started to fit new engine mounts and other bits back on.
There is one last engine to mount to make which is located at the very front of the engine. These 3D printers come in pretty handy, atm its printing out a template so I can check my hole positionings for the front mount.
Had to modify my PS bracket
My new daily until the prelude is functioning 100% & just incase anyone mentions it, I do have the original plate to go on but can't get the fixings until Monday.
The plan is to keep this one completely original and just tidy it up a bit, there are a few little things to touch up but despite doing 92k its in really good condition! Everything works faultlessly and it seems to have been maintained to a good standard.
1, Power steering high pressure and return lines fabricated, used one of the original Lude lines and the routing has been kept extremely neat and tidy.
2. Valve clearences done.
3. Engine/Box back together.
4. Supercharger Back on.
5. Engine back in car & started to fit new engine mounts and other bits back on.
There is one last engine to mount to make which is located at the very front of the engine. These 3D printers come in pretty handy, atm its printing out a template so I can check my hole positionings for the front mount.
Had to modify my PS bracket
My new daily until the prelude is functioning 100% & just incase anyone mentions it, I do have the original plate to go on but can't get the fixings until Monday.
The plan is to keep this one completely original and just tidy it up a bit, there are a few little things to touch up but despite doing 92k its in really good condition! Everything works faultlessly and it seems to have been maintained to a good standard.
So progress has been slow the past couple of months with work & tbh I did lose a bit of enthusiasm with the project, taking things apart just felt like I was heading backwards rather than achieving anything with it! Once it started going back together and I could see the light at the end of the tunnel I have become highly motivated again!
I am hoping that come Monday I can ring up and book it in for its MOT, hell yea! Still waiting on the front engine mount but that's nothing a large ratchet strap can't take care of... hehe
Ok, so to recap what I have been up to with round two of the modifications, here is a list:
1. Electric power steering pump install inc lines & wiring etc.
2. MFactory helical LSD installed.
3. New Head gasket.
4. Fitted ARP head studs.
5. Weld up cracked supercharger manifold.
6. New 6th gear synchro
7. Wire up primary lambda correctly as harness was wired for wideband..
8. New cam chain engine mount using OEM rubber.
9. New gbox engine mount to allow engine to shift over a further 10mm.
10. Disable ATTS cluster warning light.
11. Find out why ABS warning light is illuminated.
12. Design/make supercharger support to prevent cracked manifold.
13. New exhaust wrap.
14. Redo injector wiring.
Still a couple little things to do, but here are the photo's below, oh and for the first time ever I had to change a wheel at the side of the road
Luckily I could get the wheel nuts off
I am hoping that come Monday I can ring up and book it in for its MOT, hell yea! Still waiting on the front engine mount but that's nothing a large ratchet strap can't take care of... hehe
Ok, so to recap what I have been up to with round two of the modifications, here is a list:
1. Electric power steering pump install inc lines & wiring etc.
2. MFactory helical LSD installed.
3. New Head gasket.
4. Fitted ARP head studs.
5. Weld up cracked supercharger manifold.
6. New 6th gear synchro
7. Wire up primary lambda correctly as harness was wired for wideband..
8. New cam chain engine mount using OEM rubber.
9. New gbox engine mount to allow engine to shift over a further 10mm.
10. Disable ATTS cluster warning light.
11. Find out why ABS warning light is illuminated.
12. Design/make supercharger support to prevent cracked manifold.
13. New exhaust wrap.
14. Redo injector wiring.
Still a couple little things to do, but here are the photo's below, oh and for the first time ever I had to change a wheel at the side of the road
Luckily I could get the wheel nuts off 
Edited by Mudgey on Wednesday 19th March 13:00
So unfortunately there may be some more issues. I was tidying up the car, checking the oil levels etc and found there was some slight sludgy poo on the underside of the filler cap...
I have never experienced this problem before so any thoughts on this are appreciated:
I am 99% sure the headgasket is fine.
The water pump housing channels the water flow into the engine but also there is a crank ventilation passage to a breather, these are sealed off by a rubber o-ring. There is a possibility that the o-ring could not have sealed correctly when I fitted the pump housing back on.
My last thought is it could merely be condensation. When the engine wasn't being worked on it was covered over with clean rags but moisture could still circulate, it was reasonably cold the last couple of months. So now since the engine has been running could it be that the moisture inside the engine has evaporated and condensed on the rocker cover?
I drained the oil and could only see one tiny bit of sludge... Would it be safe to run the engine after cleaning the rocker cover, remove any sludgy bits I can see in the head & then flush the engine through with a few oil changes?
Pictures below:
And my last question is what colour do you think I should redo the rocker cover? Considering I have a black and silver theme I was thinking of getting it powdercoated textured matt black along with the spark plug cover, it should compliment the dip stock and oil filler cap nicely, what do you guys reckon?
I have never experienced this problem before so any thoughts on this are appreciated:
I am 99% sure the headgasket is fine.
The water pump housing channels the water flow into the engine but also there is a crank ventilation passage to a breather, these are sealed off by a rubber o-ring. There is a possibility that the o-ring could not have sealed correctly when I fitted the pump housing back on.
My last thought is it could merely be condensation. When the engine wasn't being worked on it was covered over with clean rags but moisture could still circulate, it was reasonably cold the last couple of months. So now since the engine has been running could it be that the moisture inside the engine has evaporated and condensed on the rocker cover?
I drained the oil and could only see one tiny bit of sludge... Would it be safe to run the engine after cleaning the rocker cover, remove any sludgy bits I can see in the head & then flush the engine through with a few oil changes?
Pictures below:
And my last question is what colour do you think I should redo the rocker cover? Considering I have a black and silver theme I was thinking of getting it powdercoated textured matt black along with the spark plug cover, it should compliment the dip stock and oil filler cap nicely, what do you guys reckon?
Nice work!
It's great to see more Prelude owners attempting new swaps.
I see you too are using an MR2 power steering pump - i've had mine in for some time now without an issue. With the K swap, what type of signal did you use for your speed pulse in order to allow the pump to change the amount of assist?
It's great to see more Prelude owners attempting new swaps.
I see you too are using an MR2 power steering pump - i've had mine in for some time now without an issue. With the K swap, what type of signal did you use for your speed pulse in order to allow the pump to change the amount of assist?
Mudgey said:
My last thought is it could merely be condensation. When the engine wasn't being worked on it was covered over with clean rags but moisture could still circulate, it was reasonably cold the last couple of months. So now since the engine has been running could it be that the moisture inside the engine has evaporated and condensed on the rocker cover?
I would suspect this. Unless you have any other signs of trouble I wouldn't be concerned about that much moisture/gunk on the inside of a filler cap.Nice build BTW
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