The road-going racing car - Sam McKee's BMW E36 328i

The road-going racing car - Sam McKee's BMW E36 328i

Author
Discussion

TroubledSoul

4,589 posts

193 months

Wednesday 11th May 2016
quotequote all
Hard luck with the diff, it's exactly the sort of thing that would happen to me!

I did just see this and thought of you:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E36-Coupe-Saloon-3-9...


McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Wednesday 11th May 2016
quotequote all
Synchromesh said:
McSam said:
I have a list I can type up if anyone's interested/anal enough/really bored.
All of the above, actually. So what came out?

Congrats on the time btw, looked like a tidy lap clap
Heh, OK then, see below! Thanks smile

TroubledSoul said:
Hard luck with the diff, it's exactly the sort of thing that would happen to me!

I did just see this and thought of you:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E36-Coupe-Saloon-3-9...
Yeah, major pain but I'll be able to keep the car at my house now so doing a couple of hours an evening to get it sorted won't be much of a problem. A 3.91, wow, nice find.. It's far too short for track use on a 328i, that's rally-car gearing for one of these, but interesting nonetheless to see one for sale!


So, weight out..

Category  Item    Mass (g)

All Fixings various 50
Subtotal 50

Chassis Spare wheel (Style 30) 18700
Subtotal 18700

Electrical components Front fog lamp LH 462
Electrical components Front fog lamp RH 462
Electrical components C pillar lamp RH 59
Electrical components C pillar lamp LH 59
Electrical components Vanity lamp LH 25
Subtotal 1067

HVAC HVAC ducting footwell LH 148
Subtotal 148


Interior trim Boot floor 3556
Interior trim Door card assy rear LH 2500
Interior trim Door card assy rear RH 2400
Interior trim Glovebox assy 2166
Interior trim Floor mats front 1813
Interior trim Headliner 1700
Interior trim Floor mats rear 1327
Interior trim Bootlid tool kit assy 1176
Interior trim Instrument panel lower RH 1089
Interior trim Boot tray 924
Interior trim Wheel well filler assy 829
Interior trim Boot lip finisher 829
Interior trim Battery tray 675
Interior trim C pillar trim LH 549
Interior trim C pillar trim RH 542
Interior trim Glovebox undercover 458
Interior trim Bootlid carpet 422
Interior trim Rear combilamp cover RH 313
Interior trim Rear combilamp cover LH 313
Interior trim Sunvisor assy LH 311
Interior trim Instrument panel side RH 283
Interior trim A pillar trim RH 211
Interior trim A pillar trim LH 210
Interior trim Instrument panel side LH 203
Interior trim Sill trim rear LH 139
Interior trim Speaker grille front lower LH 137
Interior trim Sill trim rear RH 135
Interior trim Jesus handle assy rear RH 58
Interior trim Jesus handle assy rear LH 58
Interior trim Jesus handle blanks front RH 8
Interior trim LH air register assy -468
Subtotal 24866

NVH Rear bulkhead heavy layer base 3710
NVH Rear bulkhead heavy layer upper 2289
NVH Boot side insul RH 1159
NVH Boot side insul LH 1043
NVH Bonnet insul 500
NVH Instrument panel insul LH 141
NVH Instrument panel insul RH 76
NVH Door skin closer foam rear LH 62
NVH Door skin closer foam rear RH 58
NVH Rear bulkhead heavy layer -248
Subtotal 8790

Powertrain Airbox 1579
Powertrain New induction system -700
Subtotal 879

Seating Rear seats squab 10300
Seating Rear seats base 4900
Seating Headrest rear RH 390
Seating Headrest rear LH 390
Subtotal 15980

Track equipment Towing eye front -235
Track equipment Towing eye rear -235
Subtotal -470

Total 70.010kg


If that displays in a mess, hit "quote" and read it there. Despite the code function apparently not formatting text, it still skips the breaks I used to align things..

"Assy" is assembly, a complete item with all its fixings and constituent parts. Negative figures are things added back in, most notably some of the heavy layer from the rear bulkhead to protect the airbag sensor that was under the rear seats, and the passenger air registers that came out with the glovebox. They're only so heavy because they also contain the glovebox lock, so I can lock a door that's no longer fitted. Would have hammered it out, but so far everything done to the car is entirely reversible and I don't want to go away from that yet. Even the headlining came out in good nick... eventually.



Seems that now I've accounted for everything that went back in, I just make 70kg. Not bad. Big wins still left are the front seats and door cards, the air con and the audio system. I still haven't touched any electrical harness either.

PAULJ5555

3,554 posts

175 months

Friday 13th May 2016
quotequote all
McSam said:
Oh, and if it sounds a bit different, that might be something to do with this little setup..



Sounds fantastic, massively louder and gives the car so much more "urge", I love it! Heatshield seems to do its job fine, no apparent loss of power and the inlet temp doesn't seem to rise in hard use. I've got a dyno run booked on Saturday so it'll be very interesting to see a) how it performs as standard anyway, and b) what impact the open filter has when fitted.
Hi, where did you get the filter & heat shield from?

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Friday 13th May 2016
quotequote all
PAULJ5555 said:
Hi, where did you get the filter & heat shield from?
Hi! None of it is specific to the E36, the filter is a normal K&N 57i cone filter, and to fit it I needed a length of aluminium pipe (which produces most of the intake resonance), a short silicon hose, and then just a generic 270° arc heatshield to screw onto the filter. My pipe is 80mm diameter, and the inside diameter of my silicone hose is also 80mm. Those sizes make for a really good fit together and onto the car. The standard airbox's feed pipe runs to a pretty perfect spot. The filter was maybe £40, had it years so can't remember, and all the hardware to fit came to the princely sum of £23.

This assembly will weigh far more than the duct from the MAF to the throttle is designed to support, so you'll need to find a suitable bracket. I discovered that the bracket intended to fit this filter to the E46 328i I had at the time was pretty perfect if I bent one of the original airbox mounting lugs inboard a bit to get it close enough. You can see that well in the photo.

The heatshield fouls the bonnet insulation when closed, but only enough to mark it up and hold things in place nicely, not enough to put anything under stress. Come to think of it, I've just deleted that insulation, so I'd better fit some silent tape or similar to stop it rattling against the now-bare metal!

ETA: With this setup, your airflow isn't perfect. You'll only notice with hard track driving on a hot day, but your intake temperature can start to rise enough to cause a measurable performance drop. What you should really do is relocate the horn out of the way and run a nice big pipe up from the bumper.. My car no longer has foglamps, but I do have an old smashed one, so I'm going to gut that and use it for this. Bizarrely it's a really nice shape for an air inlet, and obviously fits the aperture perfectly.

Edited by McSam on Friday 13th May 23:31

PAULJ5555

3,554 posts

175 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
quotequote all
McSam said:
PAULJ5555 said:
Hi, where did you get the filter & heat shield from?
Hi! None of it is specific to the E36, the filter is a normal K&N 57i cone filter, and to fit it I needed a length of aluminium pipe (which produces most of the intake resonance), a short silicon hose, and then just a generic 270° arc heatshield to screw onto the filter. My pipe is 80mm diameter, and the inside diameter of my silicone hose is also 80mm. Those sizes make for a really good fit together and onto the car. The standard airbox's feed pipe runs to a pretty perfect spot. The filter was maybe £40, had it years so can't remember, and all the hardware to fit came to the princely sum of £23.

This assembly will weigh far more than the duct from the MAF to the throttle is designed to support, so you'll need to find a suitable bracket. I discovered that the bracket intended to fit this filter to the E46 328i I had at the time was pretty perfect if I bent one of the original airbox mounting lugs inboard a bit to get it close enough. You can see that well in the photo.

The heatshield fouls the bonnet insulation when closed, but only enough to mark it up and hold things in place nicely, not enough to put anything under stress. Come to think of it, I've just deleted that insulation, so I'd better fit some silent tape or similar to stop it rattling against the now-bare metal!

ETA: With this setup, your airflow isn't perfect. You'll only notice with hard track driving on a hot day, but your intake temperature can start to rise enough to cause a measurable performance drop. What you should really do is relocate the horn out of the way and run a nice big pipe up from the bumper.. My car no longer has foglamps, but I do have an old smashed one, so I'm going to gut that and use it for this. Bizarrely it's a really nice shape for an air inlet, and obviously fits the aperture perfectly.

Edited by McSam on Friday 13th May 23:31
Thank you, that is very helpful.

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
quotequote all
Happy to be of service!

Annoyingly, I've discovered my car now has a truly gigantic battery drain. I can't tell for sure whether it's since it was stripped, because I normally leave it with the battery off, but it's now taking the battery from a fresh charge to under 2V in a day or so, so it's pretty serious. I wondered if it was alarm related, so left the car in the garage unlocked for two days, result: 0.6V!

This battery is probably toast now (though it has recovered from some pretty poor treatment before), but I need to find this drain. None of the wiring I disconnected (mostly only interior lamps) is touching any body metal or other conductors, it's all taped up separately, and I didn't cut into any harnesses at all to avoid this kind of issue! Anyone have any suggestions?

TroubledSoul

4,589 posts

193 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
quotequote all
You need to get a multimeter on it and wire it in series. You'll be able to see the current draw and then pull fuses one by one. You'll be able to see which circuit is causing it as it'll obviously stop when the fuse is out.

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Sunday 26th June 2016
quotequote all
Thanks TS, that was my plan - unfortunately my multimeter wasn't playing ball so I had to do it lower-tech way of pulling all fuses that could reasonably have been at fault, then adding them back one per day and watching the voltage drop. Astonishingly, the last one was actually the culprit hehe I'd have to check back exactly what it does but it certainly doesn't prevent me driving the car.

Little to report as she's been hiding in the garage throughout June with no events, but I am at Curborough for a sprint on July 15th. The diff will be on by then - whether by my hand or someone else's, it's going on. I've taken the opportunity to get through a couple more things on the to-do list, this morning was the other front wheel bearing. This is an amazingly quick job once you know what you're doing - 45mins from getting my tools out to having her back on her wheels!



This also gave me the chance to look at my Mintex M1155 front pads.. a shade under 500 hard track miles on these, and they refuse to get out of the way so I can fit my Performance Frictions!





Look like they've got pretty hot, but plenty of life left yet.

While the car's facing the right way in the garage, I might see if I can fashion some sort of intake ducting up from the unused foglamp housing. I'm also looking at the whole cooling and HVAC system and thinking:
  • Air con doesn't work. Will get it checked on a machine next week and if it's a big leak or looks like a compressor failure, I'll remove it. If just gas I'll keep it.
  • If I'm binning the air con, then the condensor and the big shrouded fan in front of it will go too. This will give great airflow to the radiator
  • Great airflow to the radiator means I really will have to replace my stuck-open thermostat.
  • To get to the stat, I'll have the viscous fan off. Refitting it seems rather daft, so I'll get an electric one on there.
Net result will be -20kg, +some fractions of horses, +vastly better cooling, +finally running at temp on motorways. Sounds good.

The questions arising from all that are, which electric fan should I get to replace the viscous one, and what thermostat opening temperature should I go for?

Synchromesh

2,428 posts

165 months

Sunday 26th June 2016
quotequote all
McSam said:
  • Air con doesn't work. Will get it checked on a machine next week and if it's a big leak or looks like a compressor failure, I'll remove it. If just gas I'll keep it.
I'm pretty sure this was the car I took to Kwik-Fit for a regas and got my money back straight away as it made FA difference.

TroubledSoul

4,589 posts

193 months

Monday 27th June 2016
quotequote all
You could just leave the aircon fan in place and fit the 318 lower temp switch to it. That way you already have your electric fan and don't need to mess about.

mwggriffiths

62 posts

150 months

Monday 27th June 2016
quotequote all
McSam said:
I'm also looking at the whole cooling and HVAC system and thinking:
  • Air con doesn't work. Will get it checked on a machine next week and if it's a big leak or looks like a compressor failure, I'll remove it. If just gas I'll keep it.
  • If I'm binning the air con, then the condensor and the big shrouded fan in front of it will go too. This will give great airflow to the radiator
  • Great airflow to the radiator means I really will have to replace my stuck-open thermostat.
  • To get to the stat, I'll have the viscous fan off. Refitting it seems rather daft, so I'll get an electric one on there.
Net result will be -20kg, +some fractions of horses, +vastly better cooling, +finally running at temp on motorways. Sounds good.

The questions arising from all that are, which electric fan should I get to replace the viscous one, and what thermostat opening temperature should I go for?
TroubledSoul said:
You could just leave the aircon fan in place and fit the 318 lower temp switch to it. That way you already have your electric fan and don't need to mess about.
I binned off the AC on my track 328i last summer, so here are my thoughts:

  • Including the viscous fan and AC bracket etc its more like 25kg weight save (you'll need to remove the main crank pulley off the engine to get the Compressor braket off the engine, but its a decent weight of cast aluminium so its worth the effort)
  • Bin of the AC pusher fan (its probably seized solid anyway)
  • Get a SPAL pusher fan and mount it directly on the front of the rad in place of the old AC fan
  • Fit the lower temp thermostat as you mentioned (can't remember what temp I went for, but it was a standard BMW part, possibly 80degC?)
  • Definitely in the viscous fan too!
  • Fit a lower temperature radiator switch if you desire (this is the part, https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-12824-radiator-... , but its available WAY cheaper elsewhere, you need to modify the sensor plug slightly to remove a tang with a stanley knife - when you come to plug it in it'll be immediately obvious where / why / how)
  • Wire up the SPAL to the existing AC pusher fan wiring - that fan has a radiator temperature switch trigger built into it as TroubledSoul eluded to so it'll turn on and off automatically as required
  • Wire up the SPAL to either the lower speed, lower temp trigger relay (blue/black wire I believe), or the higher speed, higher temp relay (blue wire), you pays your money you makes your choice on that one (check those wire colours on a wiring diagram, I may have them back to front), but either will work
  • I got rid of the shroud around the AC fan, and mounted the SPAL directly to the rad, and it seems to be fine with that - its not even got close to overheating once, even parked stationary trying to get of the 'Ring in +30degC outside temps
  • Keep the shroud / ducting between the rad and the slam panel - removing this is the easiest way to overheat your car for almost zero weight save
  • The Driftworks Super Cool M3 rad is a nice piece, and this would be a good time to fit it - you need an M3 top hose and an expansion tank and some odds and sods of hoses to make it work though

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Monday 27th June 2016
quotequote all
Synchromesh said:
I'm pretty sure this was the car I took to Kwik-Fit for a regas and got my money back straight away as it made FA difference.
Git, you told me "probably just needs a regas" when you sold it to me hehe good job that's a statement you ignore by default!

Outstanding info mwggriffiths, just what I was hoping for, thank you very much. I'll get pricing stuff up, though will also test the AC fan as TS suggests, if that works then that makes it a very cheap job indeed. Should it run if I just feed it 12V, or does it need a PWM signal or similar?

helix402

7,832 posts

181 months

Monday 27th June 2016
quotequote all
The E46 fan runs from three wires, perm live, earth and pwm signal from the DME/DDE, not sure about the 36.

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Sunday 10th July 2016
quotequote all
Well, I finally committed to getting the cooling system sorted out - at least partially! I'm pleased to report that everything behaved far better than I expected, though. I haven't found many DIYs for jobs like this, so if anyone wants any more info do let me know, I'll be happy to take some more photos and add some detail.

Access to the thermostat housing isn't great with the viscous fan in place, so that was the first thing to come out. There's no need for a special tool to hold the pulley - a long screwdriver is fine, and actually I found that I didn't even need that, as a few blows with a rubber mallet cracked the nut off just fine, then it was easy to walk it out. The only special tool you need is the abnormally giant 32mm spanner!



The fan shroud just has two firtree clips at the top, and the fan and shroud are best removed as a pair. This leaves you with lots more room, but not enough for the extra bits I wanted to take off.



So, through the very simple expedient of winding out the radiator drain plug then removing the top and bottom radiator hoses, plus the overflow hose at the bottom right as you look into the car, the radiator could come out too. Don't forget to disconnect the harnesses to the expansion tank level sender down at the bottom, and the radiator fan switch on the left! Then a big screwdriver into the top clips releases them, and out it comes.



Now would have been a great time to fit an uprated radiator, if I had one. Not to worry, this one looks fine - could be cleaner, though.



Good smile now we've got loads of room for activities!



The thermostat housing is held on by four bolts - one 10mm on the top, two 10mms which are pretty much blind underneath, and a 13mm that also goes through the engine lifting eye. To get the stat housing out you'll need to get the lifting eye bracket out of the way, so undo this one first, and the 13mm at the other end of the bracket to remove it. Now, be careful with the 10mms, especially the bottom ones. On my E46, they were corroded away to little nipples of brown crap, and needed molegrips to get out. My E36 was actually perfect and everything cracked off just fine, but yours might be borderline, so take care with your tools and don't round them off.

Once the housing is off, your stat will probably remain. Bit of persuasion with a screwdriver and out it'll come. Do have your drain pan underneath and some rags to protect the belts in case a load of coolant follows it out of the block - again, my E46 did this, but the '36 was bone dry. The fact it hadn't been run for a couple of weeks before this job probably helped!

Doesn't look too bad in there, for 180k and nearly 20 years.



Refitting, as they say, is the reverse of removal but I wasn't stopping there. I put the new stat in and bolted the housing back up to save leaving anything exposed, then started squinting at the air conditioning system. It looks like you'd need the bumper off to make a proper job of getting the condensor out, which I'm not averse to doing but I realised that the standard auxiliary fan only attaches to the condensor, so I'd be totally fanless if I took it out! Will save that until I have an aftermarket fan to fit directly to the radiator.

I could, however, get the AC belt, tensioner pulley and compressor off. These were straightforward - on M52, the AC belt is separate to the other ancillaries, so you don't even need a replacement shorter one, it's a simple removal. The tensioner is held on with 3 13mm bolts, and the compressor with four on the left-hand side bolting into the (amazingly huge!) aluminium bracket others mentioned. You won't get the compressor bolts all the way out as they foul the crush can, but it'll still come free.

Before removing the compressor, there are two AC pipes connecting to it. One goes to the bottom of the condensor, the other right up to the bulkhead. If your AC system has not been completely degassed with a proper machine, do not break any pipe unions, not only is R134a seriously nasty stuff but it's also a criminal offence to deliberately release it into the atmosphere. Happily, mine was completely empty, save for some dye used to find wherever all the refrigerant had fled from! The unions are all 6mm female hex bolts, rubber mallet will likely come in handy to get them to free off. I also needed it to persuade my compressor to part company once all the bolts were out.

You also have the receiver/drier beneath the right-hand headlamp, this is straightforward to remove but one of its pipes leads into part of the condensor that I couldn't easily access - not wanting to leave a pipe flapping about, I left the drier in place. Quite frankly, I couldn't be arsed taking the crank pulley off to remove the compressor bracket, not when I knew I'd have the bumper off at a later date to do the condensor, so I left that for now too.

Reassembling, I ran into a small issue with the radiator temp switch I'd bought..



Now, I'm no electrical engineer, but that strikes me as incompatible with the car's harness on the right! This part is apparently a 61 31 8 361 787, and my car needs a 61 31 8 376 440. If only I'd paid more attention to the excellent guide on understeer.com:



Fortunately Euro Car Parts have that as well so I can just swap it. Here's hoping I don't lose too much coolant just unscrewing it with the car cold - don't fancy draining it again! The correct 440 switch for a late car like mine was fitted to E36 316i and 318i 1997 onwards, in case you're after one.

By the end of all this faffing around, I had removed all of this stuff, none of which is going back in the car smile



Viscous fan and shroud (1.6kg), AC belt (not weighed yet), AC belt tensioner pulley and bracket (600g), AC compressor (6.3kg), AC pipes from bulkhead to compressor and compressor to condensor (1.4kg), assorted fixings (not weighed yet). So all told, should be a shade over 10kg, getting me to 80kg total - or pretty much exactly my weight dressed with my lid on. Perfect!

Watch this space for an exciting update later in the week...

Synchromesh

2,428 posts

165 months

Sunday 10th July 2016
quotequote all
Looking forward to the next update but...didn't we speak about this?

McSam said:
...on M52, the AC belt....

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Sunday 10th July 2016
quotequote all
Did it occur to you that I knew you'd be reading? wink

Synchromesh

2,428 posts

165 months

Sunday 10th July 2016
quotequote all
McSam said:
Did it occur to you that I knew you'd be reading? wink
Oh, so it was a subbing test? wink

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all
Indeed it was!

I did promise an exciting update.. they may not have photographed very well, but there are two lines behind that car - this is her first number 11 biggrin



The diff from a 3.0 M3 is now fitted, taking the final drive ratio from 2.93 to 3.15 (7.5% shorter) and giving me 25% drive locking. The effect is, as you'd expect, profound. On a dry road it's now almost impossible to unstick the car on its NS-2Rs, it just powers on out and awaits your next question! It's very impressive indeed, and the gearing change is very welcome - where before third and even sometimes second could feel laboriously long, they're now dealt with much more quickly and it feels "right".

On my first proper launch, I actually ran straight into the limiter in first - between the shorter ratio and the far better drive off the line, I couldn't believe how quickly it had come around!

So the very next day, off I went to Curborough for a sprint. This would make for an interesting benchmark - I've been here twice before, setting a class record of 1'10.52 last time out. This year? 1'08.18.

Two point three four seconds faster for having that LSD and about 80kg stripped out. Over such a short lap, that's astonishing.. here's the run.

https://youtu.be/H-qDNaj5O-E

I was very happy indeed, not only because that run was six tenths quicker than my last, but also because it had put me ahead of the nearest competition, a very well-driven S2000 - so PistonShed set the outright fastest time of the day! It felt like a bloody good lap, but there is more time out there, not least from a lot of time now spent in the rev limiter. I knew this would happen as I could just brush it approaching the top corner with the old diff, so now it's a serious restriction. It seems quite common to raise these to 7000rpm or even higher (I see a few at 7300) as part of remapping after fitting an M50 intake manifold. Any thoughts on this?

Apart from being massively faster (oh, and clocking 6.7 seconds 0-60mph!), it's also now possible to have lots and lots of fun looking where you're going out of the side window. I did the childish thing of putting Chinese ditchfinders on the back with my semi-slicks still on the front earlier in the day, and it rained too.. First time I've actually reached the lockstops hanging onto a slide, and the first time I've spun a car under power too! More footage to follow, and I'm hoping some good exterior photos too.

Awesome day, fantastic car. She needs a garland hanging off a wing mirror or something. I'm well and truly in love.



Edited by McSam on Saturday 16th July 16:02

helix402

7,832 posts

181 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all
Good work, I presume the garland comment is a joke........

McSam

Original Poster:

6,753 posts

174 months

Wednesday 28th September 2016
quotequote all
Long overdue an update! MOT time came round again..



I should just stop worrying about this car, as she went just fine once again - trifling issues with lazy screenwash delivery and weird headlamp aim aside. Standing underneath did reveal it's getting a little tender around the jacking points, though, so a good clean up and some Waxoyl might be in order.

Straight after that, it was time for another sprint, at Blyton Park again - but this time the Outer circuit, which I was very keen for as I hadn't done it since the very first time I drove this car on track! So I'd finally get to compare the benchmark of a completely standard car (and a sprint virgin behind the wheel) against what we've grown into today.

I'll cut to the chase: here's that comparison.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pu6u3U_t8I

First event vs our 15th outing
Totally shot original suspension vs HSD Dualtech adjustable coilovers
Hopeless no-name brake pads vs Performance Friction Z-rated with E46 328i front discs
2.93 open diff vs 3.15 LSD
1340kg kerbweight vs 1260kg
Heavily worn Kumho KU31 tyres vs very heavily worn and flatspotted Kumho KU31 tyres - I may have to finally retire this set now hehe

The result is a 3.83-second improvement, from 1'20.21 down to 1'16.38. I'm really pleased with that biggrin

To see that run a bit clearer, here it is on its own: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF3LhwHF6sQ

And because I found it interesting, here it is against the Honda S2000 I'd been battling all season. To make it fair, I put 80kg of ballast in the S2 - it was three hundredths faster. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jai0s_UqSPs

Said tyres looking rather sorry for themselves afterwards..



Further update to come once I've done some video editing from the following week's track day - like to keep busy!