Ferrari F430 Spider
Discussion
Thanks both. I got a good deal on the discs from a friend, so thankfully nothing like the RRP.
I have plans for a carbon front bumper. Ferrari originally looked in to them and discounted the idea, but I've found one from the batch of originals. They save 10kg which is nice but before I do that I'd like to put the car on some scales to check the current weight balance.
I have plans for a carbon front bumper. Ferrari originally looked in to them and discounted the idea, but I've found one from the batch of originals. They save 10kg which is nice but before I do that I'd like to put the car on some scales to check the current weight balance.
Makes sense!
Seems these people make other carbon parts (such as fenders): https://www.saxonparts.com/product/ferrari-430-gt3...
Just casually dropping it here
Seems these people make other carbon parts (such as fenders): https://www.saxonparts.com/product/ferrari-430-gt3...
Just casually dropping it here
Church of Noise said:
Makes sense!
Seems these people make other carbon parts (such as fenders): https://www.saxonparts.com/product/ferrari-430-gt3...
Just casually dropping it here
Thank you. I was in touch with Saxon before the days of COVID, but they produce only the GT3 parts which are a widebody conversion to suit wide front slicks. There's a chap over on FerrariChat who is converting his Berlinetta - it'll be a fun project.Seems these people make other carbon parts (such as fenders): https://www.saxonparts.com/product/ferrari-430-gt3...
Just casually dropping it here
I think the next easiest part to tackle is the engine bay lid which I'll have removed and sent to Plastics4Performance, for them to copy in Lexan.
Service time at my local Ferrari main dealer. The car hasn't missed a single service in its lifetime, but thanks to COVID I was out of the country for most of 2020, and it missed the annual. I haven't actually driven the car since Feb 2000, so despite being around this year I was actually in two minds about having it done...I caved at the last moment. It's a bit ridculous really - the oil was brand new.
There were some amber items on the traffic light report:
- TPMS battery life reading 0 months left
- Front Pads - 5mm (A) advise pads are getting low
- Brake Fluid change advised
- Antifreeze change advised
I have new CCM discs and pads to go on but I'm likely going to a FOC trackday before summer, so I'll finish off what's currently fitted. Brake fluid, antifreeze, cabin filter, and AC re-gas were already on my comissioning list. TPMS can wait for new tyres.
Over Christmas I titivated the wheelarch areas. That is factory overspray on the underseal.
I removed the moisture barrier in the luggage compartment to check the bulkead area, and clean it. All is well. I'm sure that the moisture barrier was £50 odd the last time I did this. It has gone up to £130. Expensive cleaning session
In 2022 I'm going to try to make up for lost time; I've rejoined the FOC, and booked Silverstone Classic tickets. My friend Gary (black 360 stripped out track car) has asked if I'm going to the Silverstone or Anglesey FOC track day, so I'll get to one of those. I've booked accomodation for a three week trip in May which includes France, Switzerland, and Italy. My wife and I are discussing another trip after Italy - possibly northern Spain or Croatia - but nothing booked so far.
There were some amber items on the traffic light report:
- TPMS battery life reading 0 months left
- Front Pads - 5mm (A) advise pads are getting low
- Brake Fluid change advised
- Antifreeze change advised
I have new CCM discs and pads to go on but I'm likely going to a FOC trackday before summer, so I'll finish off what's currently fitted. Brake fluid, antifreeze, cabin filter, and AC re-gas were already on my comissioning list. TPMS can wait for new tyres.
Over Christmas I titivated the wheelarch areas. That is factory overspray on the underseal.
I removed the moisture barrier in the luggage compartment to check the bulkead area, and clean it. All is well. I'm sure that the moisture barrier was £50 odd the last time I did this. It has gone up to £130. Expensive cleaning session
In 2022 I'm going to try to make up for lost time; I've rejoined the FOC, and booked Silverstone Classic tickets. My friend Gary (black 360 stripped out track car) has asked if I'm going to the Silverstone or Anglesey FOC track day, so I'll get to one of those. I've booked accomodation for a three week trip in May which includes France, Switzerland, and Italy. My wife and I are discussing another trip after Italy - possibly northern Spain or Croatia - but nothing booked so far.
Fantastic work as always and I don't blame you for getting it serviced.
This might be a stupid question and probably of negligible difference but seeing as your car is all about the tiny differences I'll ask.
Why is the shock mounted with the body on the lower wishbone? I would have thought the body, oil, spring adjuster would be heavier than the other end and shaft so if it was mounted the other way up there would be less unsprung weight? Motorbike shocks are mounted like this.
This might be a stupid question and probably of negligible difference but seeing as your car is all about the tiny differences I'll ask.
Why is the shock mounted with the body on the lower wishbone? I would have thought the body, oil, spring adjuster would be heavier than the other end and shaft so if it was mounted the other way up there would be less unsprung weight? Motorbike shocks are mounted like this.
Ha ha yes 2020! Too long.
Bungleaio said:
Fantastic work as always and I don't blame you for getting it serviced.
This might be a stupid question and probably of negligible difference but seeing as your car is all about the tiny differences I'll ask.
Why is the shock mounted with the body on the lower wishbone? I would have thought the body, oil, spring adjuster would be heavier than the other end and shaft so if it was mounted the other way up there would be less unsprung weight? Motorbike shocks are mounted like this.
Thank you. Good question. Obviously the shocks must be redesigned (they are oil filled magnetorheological dampers) but there's certainly room for USDs. This might be a stupid question and probably of negligible difference but seeing as your car is all about the tiny differences I'll ask.
Why is the shock mounted with the body on the lower wishbone? I would have thought the body, oil, spring adjuster would be heavier than the other end and shaft so if it was mounted the other way up there would be less unsprung weight? Motorbike shocks are mounted like this.
W00DY said:
I imagine everyone at the Ferrari dealership services their dailies with the golden fresh oil that comes out of most of the cars in for service.
Nice to see another update.
I would Nice to see another update.
This post is part one of a two part maintenance log that was performed ahead of my recent trip. Without fail there is always something to attend to on this car!
AC Service
During the last road trip I noticed that vent temperature was not as low as it should be, so I decided to have the A/C system serviced with new gas, lubricant, and receiver/dryer. The OEM part is cheap at £25, but a quick browse on the Internet revealed that it looks to be the same unit used in some Land Rover models with alternative part number JRJ100550, so there should be an alternative source if ever Ferrari discontinue the part.
I use a local F1 Autocentre for tracking & A/C as I've always found them to be very good; they were kind enough to disrupt the refill cycle to let me fit the new dryer, which took only five minutes because I'd removed the wipers and scuttle panel prior to arriving at F1.
The owners manual lists the R 134 A capacity as 800 ± 30 g, and mine was down to 536 - so no surprise that the system wasn't cooling as effectively as it should. The system passed the vac test and was refilled with 800g.
AC Compressor Engagement Issue
I had an intermittent A/C compressor engagement issue. The electronics side is simple to diagnose with two main circuits:
1) Control
The HVAC panel is the control source, with a 12v switched live output passing through a combination high pressure/low pressure switch to pin 40 on the right-hand-side engine ECU.
2) Load
If the right-hand-side engine ECU is satisfied that the correct engine operating conditions exist for compressor activation i.e. not at WOT etc, then pin 22 is earthed, which is wired to the earth side of the compressor activation relay (PSR1) in the left hand side central junction box (CBL9). The coil is fed from fuse PDF12 in the right hand side central junction box (CBR9), but jointly it supplies other key components which were OK in my car therefore I skipped a check. The load side of the relay is fed from 15a fuse PSF19 in the left hand side central junction box (CBL9)
In my case the fuses and relay were fine. I tested compressor activation at idle by briefly earthing the compressor relay coil, knowing that the issue was very unlikely to lie within the engine ECU itself - the compressor clutch clicked on. I knew that the load side of the circuit was OK so next I turned my attention to the pressure switch behind the access panel in the front luggage compartment, as that's a point where I could test for the incoming switched live from the HAC panel - which could be a possible root case - and check status of the switch; if pressure is either too high or too low then the switch will remain open and prevent compressor engagement.
I found the root cause to be something unexpected: the locking barb for the electrical connector had obviously weakened over time and had allowed the connector to migrate away from the switch body, leading to a poor connection. I fixed this by packing the connector body with a piece of plastic which forced the locking barb onto the switch, but later on when I have more time I shall replace the connector with a new part.
Becker Aux Lead
My car had the optional iPod interface which I used for a couple of years but lately it wasn't of any use to me. I removed the interface to swap with a simple 3.5mm input aux cable which would provide more flexibility.
The Becker head units uses the old mini ISO connectors for the various auxiliary functions that may be added. As my car was optioned with sat nav, I found that the powered GPS antenna was wired to the 'powered radio aerial' pins on the blue connector, so I used some cheap Chinese pin extraction tools to add the GPS antennae power wires to the new blue aux plug.
A small cable tie to protect the wires from being pulled out of the housing, and the new aux lead was good to go.
Brakes
Whilst cleaning and inspecting the brakes I noticed an issue: the masking for the powder coat job I had done during the last refurb had missed the 4mm bare metal area around the circumference of the pistons. The new powder coat was too close to the piston bores, had begun to deteriorate, and would very likely lead to a future issue. This was an unwanted discovery, but despite limited time left before the trip I decided to strip and rebuild the front calipers.
I used a Dremel to remove the unwanted powder coat, and thoroughly cleaned out the calipers with brake cleaner. New seals, naturally. My Dad very kindly re-polished all of the pistons.
I use a pressure bleeder to refresh the fluid, and here is the business end of the operation. Previously I used a piece of tube pushed over the bleed nipple but it was always prone to weeping, so I've upgraded to a moulded rubber push on fitting which works perfectly - now the whole operation is completely dry.
I took the opportunity to de-glaze the (huge) pads with some 80 grit wet-and-dry paper.
AC Service
During the last road trip I noticed that vent temperature was not as low as it should be, so I decided to have the A/C system serviced with new gas, lubricant, and receiver/dryer. The OEM part is cheap at £25, but a quick browse on the Internet revealed that it looks to be the same unit used in some Land Rover models with alternative part number JRJ100550, so there should be an alternative source if ever Ferrari discontinue the part.
I use a local F1 Autocentre for tracking & A/C as I've always found them to be very good; they were kind enough to disrupt the refill cycle to let me fit the new dryer, which took only five minutes because I'd removed the wipers and scuttle panel prior to arriving at F1.
The owners manual lists the R 134 A capacity as 800 ± 30 g, and mine was down to 536 - so no surprise that the system wasn't cooling as effectively as it should. The system passed the vac test and was refilled with 800g.
AC Compressor Engagement Issue
I had an intermittent A/C compressor engagement issue. The electronics side is simple to diagnose with two main circuits:
1) Control
The HVAC panel is the control source, with a 12v switched live output passing through a combination high pressure/low pressure switch to pin 40 on the right-hand-side engine ECU.
2) Load
If the right-hand-side engine ECU is satisfied that the correct engine operating conditions exist for compressor activation i.e. not at WOT etc, then pin 22 is earthed, which is wired to the earth side of the compressor activation relay (PSR1) in the left hand side central junction box (CBL9). The coil is fed from fuse PDF12 in the right hand side central junction box (CBR9), but jointly it supplies other key components which were OK in my car therefore I skipped a check. The load side of the relay is fed from 15a fuse PSF19 in the left hand side central junction box (CBL9)
In my case the fuses and relay were fine. I tested compressor activation at idle by briefly earthing the compressor relay coil, knowing that the issue was very unlikely to lie within the engine ECU itself - the compressor clutch clicked on. I knew that the load side of the circuit was OK so next I turned my attention to the pressure switch behind the access panel in the front luggage compartment, as that's a point where I could test for the incoming switched live from the HAC panel - which could be a possible root case - and check status of the switch; if pressure is either too high or too low then the switch will remain open and prevent compressor engagement.
I found the root cause to be something unexpected: the locking barb for the electrical connector had obviously weakened over time and had allowed the connector to migrate away from the switch body, leading to a poor connection. I fixed this by packing the connector body with a piece of plastic which forced the locking barb onto the switch, but later on when I have more time I shall replace the connector with a new part.
Becker Aux Lead
My car had the optional iPod interface which I used for a couple of years but lately it wasn't of any use to me. I removed the interface to swap with a simple 3.5mm input aux cable which would provide more flexibility.
The Becker head units uses the old mini ISO connectors for the various auxiliary functions that may be added. As my car was optioned with sat nav, I found that the powered GPS antenna was wired to the 'powered radio aerial' pins on the blue connector, so I used some cheap Chinese pin extraction tools to add the GPS antennae power wires to the new blue aux plug.
A small cable tie to protect the wires from being pulled out of the housing, and the new aux lead was good to go.
Brakes
Whilst cleaning and inspecting the brakes I noticed an issue: the masking for the powder coat job I had done during the last refurb had missed the 4mm bare metal area around the circumference of the pistons. The new powder coat was too close to the piston bores, had begun to deteriorate, and would very likely lead to a future issue. This was an unwanted discovery, but despite limited time left before the trip I decided to strip and rebuild the front calipers.
I used a Dremel to remove the unwanted powder coat, and thoroughly cleaned out the calipers with brake cleaner. New seals, naturally. My Dad very kindly re-polished all of the pistons.
I use a pressure bleeder to refresh the fluid, and here is the business end of the operation. Previously I used a piece of tube pushed over the bleed nipple but it was always prone to weeping, so I've upgraded to a moulded rubber push on fitting which works perfectly - now the whole operation is completely dry.
I took the opportunity to de-glaze the (huge) pads with some 80 grit wet-and-dry paper.
Trip prep part two of two.
Water Pump
This car has a penchant for providing surprises at inopportune times, which in fairness may sometimes be attributed to a lack of use, and this was likely one of those cases: a small pool of antifreeze on the inside of under tray one week before we were due to leave. Coolant was visibly seeping from the join between the two sections of water pump.
The next morning I went back to the car expecting to find another pool, but it was dry. I ran the engine up to temp, and still no further sign of a leak which was quite fortuitous. I spoke to a chap called Joel who provides rebuild kits for these pumps and he reported not seeing any catastrophic failures, so I was happy to proceed with the trip.
The problem hasn't occurred since but I've taken it as a cue to rebuild the water & dry sump pump over winter using one of Joel's kits.
Rear Bumper
One part of the Scuderia rear bumper design that I've never really been happy with is the black grille area above the diffuser and around the exhaust tips. If like in my case the rear diffuser is carbon then the whole area becomes a little bit featureless. To provide a better demarcation between the carbon diffuser and the rest of the bumper I had omitted the black grille, but I still wasn't completely happy with the look, so I've now had all of the mounting holes for the grille filled with epoxy and I've painted the area in grey.
Fluid Service
I've changed the antifreeze, brake fluid, and cabin air filter. From memory I managed to remove 11 litres of antifreeze after leaving the car on an incline to drain overnight.
PAS Reservoir Cap
Oil mist was emanating from the power steering reservoir and making its way to the top of the gearbox. I don't like oil mist anywhere in the engine bay of this car, so I replaced the cap ring with one for a BMW after observing that the reservoir was a generic ZF item that is used on various cars - Ferrari sell only the complete reservoir.
Steering Rack
Ferrari had noted in my last service that the power steering rack was leaking and recommended that it was replaced. I suspected that wasn't the case, and it was in fact silicone lubricant on the gaiter from where I had adjusted the coilovers. I investigated and found the steering rack to be perfectly fine.
Suspension Service
I've applied silicone to all anodised components in order to preserve them. I've also sprayed PTFE into the suspension flamblocs, and various joints in the Spider roof assembly.
Scuderia Undertray
I had the bodyshop refurbish the front Scuderia undertray because it had a few scuffs. The painter thought that I was a few sandwiches short of a picnic
Whilst on the subject of undertrays...the Scuderia rear undertray saves additional weight by incorporating mounting bosses for two fastening locations which on the F430 are made up with steel brackets. I didn't take this into account in my previous weight saving calculations. It just goes to show the lengths that Ferrari went to.
Cleaning
The rest of the prep was cleaning and checking various fastenings around the car - the flat plane crank causes a lot of vibration. I steam cleaned behind the rear bumper and other hidden areas.
And finally, thanks to my friend Carlo in Italy for kindly donating some Scuderia seat fabric to enable me to retrim my bulkhead luggage nets, some spare market lights, and a paint code decal for my carbon bonnet.
Water Pump
This car has a penchant for providing surprises at inopportune times, which in fairness may sometimes be attributed to a lack of use, and this was likely one of those cases: a small pool of antifreeze on the inside of under tray one week before we were due to leave. Coolant was visibly seeping from the join between the two sections of water pump.
The next morning I went back to the car expecting to find another pool, but it was dry. I ran the engine up to temp, and still no further sign of a leak which was quite fortuitous. I spoke to a chap called Joel who provides rebuild kits for these pumps and he reported not seeing any catastrophic failures, so I was happy to proceed with the trip.
The problem hasn't occurred since but I've taken it as a cue to rebuild the water & dry sump pump over winter using one of Joel's kits.
Rear Bumper
One part of the Scuderia rear bumper design that I've never really been happy with is the black grille area above the diffuser and around the exhaust tips. If like in my case the rear diffuser is carbon then the whole area becomes a little bit featureless. To provide a better demarcation between the carbon diffuser and the rest of the bumper I had omitted the black grille, but I still wasn't completely happy with the look, so I've now had all of the mounting holes for the grille filled with epoxy and I've painted the area in grey.
Fluid Service
I've changed the antifreeze, brake fluid, and cabin air filter. From memory I managed to remove 11 litres of antifreeze after leaving the car on an incline to drain overnight.
PAS Reservoir Cap
Oil mist was emanating from the power steering reservoir and making its way to the top of the gearbox. I don't like oil mist anywhere in the engine bay of this car, so I replaced the cap ring with one for a BMW after observing that the reservoir was a generic ZF item that is used on various cars - Ferrari sell only the complete reservoir.
Steering Rack
Ferrari had noted in my last service that the power steering rack was leaking and recommended that it was replaced. I suspected that wasn't the case, and it was in fact silicone lubricant on the gaiter from where I had adjusted the coilovers. I investigated and found the steering rack to be perfectly fine.
Suspension Service
I've applied silicone to all anodised components in order to preserve them. I've also sprayed PTFE into the suspension flamblocs, and various joints in the Spider roof assembly.
Scuderia Undertray
I had the bodyshop refurbish the front Scuderia undertray because it had a few scuffs. The painter thought that I was a few sandwiches short of a picnic
Whilst on the subject of undertrays...the Scuderia rear undertray saves additional weight by incorporating mounting bosses for two fastening locations which on the F430 are made up with steel brackets. I didn't take this into account in my previous weight saving calculations. It just goes to show the lengths that Ferrari went to.
Cleaning
The rest of the prep was cleaning and checking various fastenings around the car - the flat plane crank causes a lot of vibration. I steam cleaned behind the rear bumper and other hidden areas.
And finally, thanks to my friend Carlo in Italy for kindly donating some Scuderia seat fabric to enable me to retrim my bulkhead luggage nets, some spare market lights, and a paint code decal for my carbon bonnet.
mwstewart said:
.....awesome stuff....
Steering Rack
Ferrari had noted in my last service that the power steering rack was leaking and recommended that it was replaced. I suspected that wasn't the case, and it was in fact silicone lubricant on the gaiter from where I had adjusted the coilovers. I investigated and found the steering rack to be perfectly fine.
....more awesome stuff...
Always find this stuff interesting, along with your interactions with Ferrari dealers in general.Steering Rack
Ferrari had noted in my last service that the power steering rack was leaking and recommended that it was replaced. I suspected that wasn't the case, and it was in fact silicone lubricant on the gaiter from where I had adjusted the coilovers. I investigated and found the steering rack to be perfectly fine.
....more awesome stuff...
I've been looking at 599s for a while now and I wonder how much the services and running costs can be brought down by doing stuff yourself, versus just taking it to a Ferrari specialist and getting stuff done to it it might not even need...
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