Discussion
Well the engine and gearbox are out of the car and a thorough inspection of body, engine and transmission have been done. Luckily there is no damage to the chassis although we did find a hole in the inner wing, close to where the exhaust manifold joins the system. It's about 3 inch square, so will be thoroughly ground back and new metal let in. The whole bay will be thoroughly cleaned and re painted anyway.
A close inspection of the engine has revealed a small crack in the timing chain cover, so that will be replaced. As that's coming off it would make sense to take the head off anyway, as all the gaskets will be wanting to be replaced. As the head is coming off, it will need re shimming and it makes sense to flow the ports and slot in some hotter cams. I've been looking at these from Cat. I've also bought some new injectors and Graham Bahr (so has a huge amount of experience building competition m10 and s14 engines) suggested these VXR ones. He's used them himself to good effect with his turbo'd s14 making well over 500 bhp.
http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/1300658.pdf
VXR injectors
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Vauxhall-Astra-V...
The clutch is well worn, so it makes sense to replace that and a lightweight flywheel is also on the shopping list. If anyone can suggest an uprated clutch, please do?
A close inspection of the engine has revealed a small crack in the timing chain cover, so that will be replaced. As that's coming off it would make sense to take the head off anyway, as all the gaskets will be wanting to be replaced. As the head is coming off, it will need re shimming and it makes sense to flow the ports and slot in some hotter cams. I've been looking at these from Cat. I've also bought some new injectors and Graham Bahr (so has a huge amount of experience building competition m10 and s14 engines) suggested these VXR ones. He's used them himself to good effect with his turbo'd s14 making well over 500 bhp.
http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/1300658.pdf
VXR injectors
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Vauxhall-Astra-V...
The clutch is well worn, so it makes sense to replace that and a lightweight flywheel is also on the shopping list. If anyone can suggest an uprated clutch, please do?
e21Mark said:
Well the engine and gearbox are out of the car and a thorough inspection of body, engine and transmission have been done. Luckily there is no damage to the chassis although we did find a hole in the inner wing, close to where the exhaust manifold joins the system. It's about 3 inch square, so will be thoroughly ground back and new metal let in. The whole bay will be thoroughly cleaned and re painted anyway.
One of the common rust spots in the E30 M3. The inner wing is very close to the manifold, the heat from the manifold perishes the underseal and then it starts rusting.Well it's funny how things can change but I didn't really expect to have to embark on such a comprehensive rebuild a few weeks ago. Although at first glance there wasn't a huge amount of damage done by falling off Black Mountain, there is quite a bit to be done. The body and chassis itself is fine and I imagine proper fitting of the cage helped there? The wheels, engine sump and gearbox mounts took the brunt though. There was also a cracked timing chain cover and this has meant removing the head, which in turn has meant I may as well rebuild the engine. Yes, I could have probably just patched things up but there's no doubt I would have been back to square one a few weeks/months down the line. So, as the head is off anyway it makes sense to fit new cams. I had intended going with Cat Cams but a) they're not as cheap as first thought and b) the general consensus is SHCRICK are a better option. If I'm going to fit cams I may as well flow the head and bore the ports. If I'm going to do that, I really should fit ARP studs and bolts. As I broke the sump and it's off anyway, I might as well fit new shells. It's also cheaper to go for a 'big wing' sump than the OE item (which is a bit small and prone to surge on long left handers anyway) so add one of those to the list. Oh and the clutch is a bit tired and I could also do with a lighter flywheel. You see where this is going? Maybe I should write to Santa?
Shame about the damage to the car.
Have you had any confirmation as to whether it was the lip on the wheel that failed or the tyre? Did you definitely hit something?
Have you got Sport Evo front arches? Do you know off the top of your head whether or not the 17s would fit under standard arches?
The BBS gold centres will look really good ala Demon Tweeks BTCC car.
Good luck with the continuing project!
Have you had any confirmation as to whether it was the lip on the wheel that failed or the tyre? Did you definitely hit something?
Have you got Sport Evo front arches? Do you know off the top of your head whether or not the 17s would fit under standard arches?
The BBS gold centres will look really good ala Demon Tweeks BTCC car.
Good luck with the continuing project!
Thanks. I guess it's the risk of using it, as opposed to just having it sat in the garage? Fortunately it's all repairable and I'm going to use the opportunity to make upgrades, so it's not all bad news. 
Yes, these rims fit under stock arches or you can go an inch wider on the front if you have Evo wings fitted. Mine are staggered 8 & 9 x 17's, although my arches were dressed when my car was bought new by Hamann Motorsport back in 1990.
The engine is stripped and now we're just waiting on parts from BMW Germany.
I'm thinking of taking the opportunity to return my suspension to KW for rebuilding. At £100 a corner it seems pretty reasonable. I also want to try some softer spring rates on the rear but they need to be a compromise between outright handling and street.
Yes, these rims fit under stock arches or you can go an inch wider on the front if you have Evo wings fitted. Mine are staggered 8 & 9 x 17's, although my arches were dressed when my car was bought new by Hamann Motorsport back in 1990.
The engine is stripped and now we're just waiting on parts from BMW Germany.
I'm thinking of taking the opportunity to return my suspension to KW for rebuilding. At £100 a corner it seems pretty reasonable. I also want to try some softer spring rates on the rear but they need to be a compromise between outright handling and street.
Well thankfully the insurance company have authorised all the repairs. It's certainly a weight off I can tell you. It appears that Schrick are now only a couple of days away from supplying new cams (296*/284*) and the head will be getting some fettling.
I sent the wheels back to AGS Engineering, who stripped them and had the centres checked for any damage but it was all good news. The new lips and inner were't cheap though (quelle surprise!) and with all new stainless bolts and a rebuild it was about about the same price as a new set of one piece rims. I just need a set of new boots and am hoping the new Nankang sport might be available in the right size? Evidently they're very good and a world away from their old ditchseeker specials?
The only delay now are the parts on order from Germany.
It appears that Schrick are now only a couple of days away from supplying new cams (296*/284*) and the head will be getting some fettling.I sent the wheels back to AGS Engineering, who stripped them and had the centres checked for any damage but it was all good news. The new lips and inner were't cheap though (quelle surprise!) and with all new stainless bolts and a rebuild it was about about the same price as a new set of one piece rims. I just need a set of new boots and am hoping the new Nankang sport might be available in the right size? Evidently they're very good and a world away from their old ditchseeker specials?
The only delay now are the parts on order from Germany.
Given you know where the hot spot is on the chassis rail, and spent all the time to have it repaired, I guess you're having the manifold wrapped / ceramic coated to protect it.
Had a thought of maybe using something like this heat tape, it's not too expensive and having used some on my heat shield for my air intake, I found it gave a solid 30 degree C reduction in ambient heat from one side to the other.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shie...
Just a suggestion! and hopefully cost effective.
Had a thought of maybe using something like this heat tape, it's not too expensive and having used some on my heat shield for my air intake, I found it gave a solid 30 degree C reduction in ambient heat from one side to the other.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shie...
Just a suggestion! and hopefully cost effective.
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