Discussion
e21Mark said:
Power came in at 235-240 which I'm not too disheartened with as it's a newly built engine with zero miles. Once it's had a few miles put on it I'll fit the 4 branch (Vink) and replace the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, which wasn't holding full pressure. I'll probably fit a 944 item but right now I need to try and recoup some of the recent cash bonfire.
Do you have an image of the dyno plot?
Well the tyres are on and the newly refurb'd wheels are back on the car. I'm really pleased with how they turned out and the darker centres have a bit of an OEM+ look.
There are a couple of minor tasks, like a small exhaust blow, plus I want to soften the adjustment on the KW V2 suspension. I think I am going to eventually change the springs for some that aren't quite so firm as the rear can feel a little skittish at times. It's not urgent but I just want to get a little more compliance.
Obviously I am really looking forward to seeing (feeling!) the difference is performance now the engine is making 25% or more than it was. I will post a copy of the dyno printout but I was told it pulled strongly from 4.5k RPM and power was climbing all the way to the 8250 limit. I know 235 - 240 brake is pretty modest by todays standards but with a lower diff' ratio and no added weight, it should still perform quite well. Mind you, the E30 has always been about the chassis rather than outright power.
So I should finally have the M3 back tomorrow sometime and fingers crossed for some dry weather over the weekend and hopefully I can get out and enjoy a run along the coast road between St Ives and Lands End.
There are a couple of minor tasks, like a small exhaust blow, plus I want to soften the adjustment on the KW V2 suspension. I think I am going to eventually change the springs for some that aren't quite so firm as the rear can feel a little skittish at times. It's not urgent but I just want to get a little more compliance.
Obviously I am really looking forward to seeing (feeling!) the difference is performance now the engine is making 25% or more than it was. I will post a copy of the dyno printout but I was told it pulled strongly from 4.5k RPM and power was climbing all the way to the 8250 limit. I know 235 - 240 brake is pretty modest by todays standards but with a lower diff' ratio and no added weight, it should still perform quite well. Mind you, the E30 has always been about the chassis rather than outright power.
So I should finally have the M3 back tomorrow sometime and fingers crossed for some dry weather over the weekend and hopefully I can get out and enjoy a run along the coast road between St Ives and Lands End.
Well I've had a chance to put a few miles on the newly built engine and it really has woken up. It has always sounded pretty good thanks to the intake noise through the carbon air box but there's a much harder edge to the sound now. Full throttle gives a real bark that remains right through the revs to the 8200 limit. The old Alpha N flat spot has gone, thanks to the conversion to DTA standalone, but everything great about the S14 remains. There's no denying that it was an expensive engine build and I could have fitted a 320 brake S54 for the same money, but I really love the S14 2.3 twin cam. I always liked the M10 on which they were based too, so I certainly don't regret not going with the six pot. There is still a bit more power to come I think and I have to replace the TPS once the proper adaptor arrives from Massive Lee. I also want to replace the injectors with something a bit more recent and a stronger electric fan is called for. I know 235+ bhp is pretty modest by todays standards but, in a light car with close gearbox ratios and a shorter diff' ratio, it's surprising just how effective the power can be. It has to be worked a little harder but once we're on the move it really flies. As I think I have said before, it feels like a powerful MK2 Escort and you just have to take it by the scruff of the neck and rinse it. It's just so much fun and perfect for the coast roads down here in Cornwall.
I'm also considering a swap to Nankang NS2R tyres, although if honest I am still put off by their history for making awful road tyres used by drifters. It's either the NS2R or Federal 595's, which I have used before and I was pretty happy with them. I'm currently running Avon ZZR and they have been great in the recent sunshine. I know they're not great on damp / wet roads though, which is why I am thinking of swapping them out sooner rather than later.
My splitter was ordered from Germany and I opted to go with carbon fibre again. Unfortunately, by the time it reached my local post office it had been broken in two. Bloody couriers!
I'm also considering a swap to Nankang NS2R tyres, although if honest I am still put off by their history for making awful road tyres used by drifters. It's either the NS2R or Federal 595's, which I have used before and I was pretty happy with them. I'm currently running Avon ZZR and they have been great in the recent sunshine. I know they're not great on damp / wet roads though, which is why I am thinking of swapping them out sooner rather than later.
My splitter was ordered from Germany and I opted to go with carbon fibre again. Unfortunately, by the time it reached my local post office it had been broken in two. Bloody couriers!
In an effort to make sure even the details are done right, I want to lose the slightly Heath Robinson throttle position switch mounting. I also wanted to fit a new TPS itself, as being an S54 part I believe it's actually a potentiometer, as opposed to simply being a switch, so I wanted a new, genuine BMW part. Once again C3 BMW came to the rescue! In order to mount it though, I needed a proper mount and none of those UK suppliers who list such a thing could help. In the end though, Massive Lee sent one from Canada. Happy Days!
My only worry now is how much dyno time I will need to readjust the mapping once these bits are fitted? I had hoped not to spend any money on it for a while.
I also bought some Poor Boys alloy wheel protector after reading good revues online. I bloody hate cleaning alloy wheels though, so am just waiting on a dry day off to get it done. I've offered to let the car be used on a stand at the BHP show near Exeter next month, so intend properly detailing it although I find that pretty tedious. Jamie_FYD is also going to be shooting it for his content on the YouTube as I hear that's quite popular with the kids nowadays.
My only worry now is how much dyno time I will need to readjust the mapping once these bits are fitted? I had hoped not to spend any money on it for a while.
I also bought some Poor Boys alloy wheel protector after reading good revues online. I bloody hate cleaning alloy wheels though, so am just waiting on a dry day off to get it done. I've offered to let the car be used on a stand at the BHP show near Exeter next month, so intend properly detailing it although I find that pretty tedious. Jamie_FYD is also going to be shooting it for his content on the YouTube as I hear that's quite popular with the kids nowadays.
You shouldn't need any dyno time. Fit the new sensor and calibrate, job jobbed.
DTA Manual said:
SET THROTTLE STOPS
Windows menu:- Engine Configuration/Set Throttle Stops
Set throttle stops; locates the precise open and shut points of the throttle or slide mechanism to enable the programme to sense accurately, and match the amount of opening to the 14 columns on ignition, fuel and other tables.
TO SET
a) First make sure the throttles are completely closed, then press the OK button.
b) Open throttle to maximum and again press the OK button.
If the values are correct then answer Y when asked to confirm ,if you answer N then start again from a).
NOTE There are limits on throttle values available for use. The closed (idle) position must be higher than 50 (we recommend about 100) as lower values are used by the system to recognise that the throttle potentiometer (sensor) has failed. Similarly values above 1000 denote a failed sensor.
If two TPS sensors are fitted then this also needs setting the same way. When using a DTA fly by wire controller the end points of the sensor on the pedal will need setting as well.
Windows menu:- Engine Configuration/Set Throttle Stops
Set throttle stops; locates the precise open and shut points of the throttle or slide mechanism to enable the programme to sense accurately, and match the amount of opening to the 14 columns on ignition, fuel and other tables.
TO SET
a) First make sure the throttles are completely closed, then press the OK button.
b) Open throttle to maximum and again press the OK button.
If the values are correct then answer Y when asked to confirm ,if you answer N then start again from a).
NOTE There are limits on throttle values available for use. The closed (idle) position must be higher than 50 (we recommend about 100) as lower values are used by the system to recognise that the throttle potentiometer (sensor) has failed. Similarly values above 1000 denote a failed sensor.
If two TPS sensors are fitted then this also needs setting the same way. When using a DTA fly by wire controller the end points of the sensor on the pedal will need setting as well.
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