Yet another rescued E36 328i M Sport project...
Discussion
Basing a project on a piece of engineering like this is not only a huge learning curve but also makes you appreciate just how well thought out and how much effort has gone into putting it together in the first place.
So, Mr helix402, what do you propose as a viable venting solution for the battery compartment? Is it simply vented into the boot space? I could go to BMW to get a replacement part, but will it fit/work with a non-standard battery?...
So, Mr helix402, what do you propose as a viable venting solution for the battery compartment? Is it simply vented into the boot space? I could go to BMW to get a replacement part, but will it fit/work with a non-standard battery?...
helix402 said:
Just trying to help you keep rust at bay! Even sealed batteries need venting, you’ll find a hole at each end of your battery. One will normally be plugged, one open. This allows you to choose which end the vent pipe plugs into.
If you do a Google search on the need for venting there are lots of better explanations than I can give.
Thanks mate, I'll look into it...If you do a Google search on the need for venting there are lots of better explanations than I can give.
helix402 said:
The factory vent pipe and fittings will fit your Bosch battery. It needs venting out under the car via a grommet in the boot floor. There should be a grommet with a small hole in.
It’s a while since I had an E36 328i but from memory the grommet is in the boot floor or battery compartment. If you can’t find one just pick a grommet near the battery and route the vent pipe through it. It’s possible the factory vent pipe may not be long enough depending where the outlet ends up.
Thanks for the info mate. Something else to get sorted in the next couple of weeks... It’s a while since I had an E36 328i but from memory the grommet is in the boot floor or battery compartment. If you can’t find one just pick a grommet near the battery and route the vent pipe through it. It’s possible the factory vent pipe may not be long enough depending where the outlet ends up.
One of the - on going - issues that has reared its head was the failure of the ignition barrel. It decided to give up the ghost and start spinning around. So, off to the BMW dealership to order a replacement. Removed the steering lock from the steering column, as it was impossible to remove the old barrel in-situ.
So the steering wheel and air-bag were first removed.
The snap-off head retaining bolts that holds the lock to the column were then removed to enable removing the old ignition barrel.
However, it was then found that the reason that the ignition barrel started spinning was that the locking mechanism in the lock had failed, so I luckily found a local BMW car breaker that had a spare column and lock. The other problem that needed to be solved, in order to try and get the damn car to start, was a possibly shagged starter motor. And the same breaker also had a good starter motor - £60 for the pair...
The mechanic is now in the process of fitting both the replacement steering lock and new ignition barrel. Fingers crossed, he'll call me with some good news to tell me that the starting issue has now been resolved...
So the steering wheel and air-bag were first removed.
The snap-off head retaining bolts that holds the lock to the column were then removed to enable removing the old ignition barrel.
However, it was then found that the reason that the ignition barrel started spinning was that the locking mechanism in the lock had failed, so I luckily found a local BMW car breaker that had a spare column and lock. The other problem that needed to be solved, in order to try and get the damn car to start, was a possibly shagged starter motor. And the same breaker also had a good starter motor - £60 for the pair...
The mechanic is now in the process of fitting both the replacement steering lock and new ignition barrel. Fingers crossed, he'll call me with some good news to tell me that the starting issue has now been resolved...
Have now moved on to getting the suspension finished.
First up was fitting the new adjustable performance front drop links.
Next, was getting the new rear drop links, powder-coated anti roll bar and new anti roll bar poly bushings fitted.
For the front and rear drop links, I also bought new genuine BMW U links, bolts and washers.
The starter motor was next on the list of issues to sort. Once the original had been removed, we found the reason why the car wouldn't turn over. the original starter motor - on the right of the below pic - was tested and we found that it had become seized solid.
Next, it was time to move on to replacing the clutch slave cylinder. Here you can see that the X-brace had to be dropped too, to enable dropping the engine and gearbox. FFS, just glad that it's gone to a fully equipped garage to do all this stuff...
This was made a whole lot easier as the engine/gearbox was dropped to enable replacing the faulty starter motor.
Here is the replacement Delphi 3.0 litre M3 clutch slave and Hel stainless steel braided clutch line, ready to install on the car.
And installed, now the engine and gearbox etc can be refitted.
Have numerous other update pics to post, but Pixlr online photo editor has decided to fall over, so will do in another day or two...
First up was fitting the new adjustable performance front drop links.
Next, was getting the new rear drop links, powder-coated anti roll bar and new anti roll bar poly bushings fitted.
For the front and rear drop links, I also bought new genuine BMW U links, bolts and washers.
The starter motor was next on the list of issues to sort. Once the original had been removed, we found the reason why the car wouldn't turn over. the original starter motor - on the right of the below pic - was tested and we found that it had become seized solid.
Next, it was time to move on to replacing the clutch slave cylinder. Here you can see that the X-brace had to be dropped too, to enable dropping the engine and gearbox. FFS, just glad that it's gone to a fully equipped garage to do all this stuff...
This was made a whole lot easier as the engine/gearbox was dropped to enable replacing the faulty starter motor.
Here is the replacement Delphi 3.0 litre M3 clutch slave and Hel stainless steel braided clutch line, ready to install on the car.
And installed, now the engine and gearbox etc can be refitted.
Have numerous other update pics to post, but Pixlr online photo editor has decided to fall over, so will do in another day or two...
Edited by RickBristol on Friday 18th May 18:58
iguana said:
Remap for m5O mods etc? Gotta be an enda one- end tuning. I've had other but not close to as good on dyno.
Not sure about the technical details yet. My new mechanic has recommended a stage 1 remap. He has a guy that will do it so that it sorts the engine and exhaust mods. Too much stuff to list here, but will get it sorted without causing loads of issues. The mods themselves should boost the power - bhp and torque - outputs really well. Its not a track/drift car so I'm more interested in getting the mods bedded-in rather than maxing the rpm range etc...iguana said:
Aha yes I've just flicked back through the thread & can see the cams, one big omission is sticking with the 328 pig iron manifolds, the m3 set up is a really good mod, really changes the engine note, far more m3 rasp & a big gain power wise 1Oish bhp alone you wouldn't regret it.
If you fancy nipping up the m4 to Newbury & have it dynoed at h Dev you can compare Vs my various 328s that have been on there, stock, m5O before & after enda, & m5O enda & m3 Mani & full system plus 2 of my 3.O m3s have been on it too.
If you happen to have a set of M3 exhaust manifolds, I'd have them off you. But that's massively unlikely and I'm not prepared to spend another £1 k or so to gain 10 bhp...If you fancy nipping up the m4 to Newbury & have it dynoed at h Dev you can compare Vs my various 328s that have been on there, stock, m5O before & after enda, & m5O enda & m3 Mani & full system plus 2 of my 3.O m3s have been on it too.
iSore said:
You can fix the E36 spinning ignition lock in about 25 minutes for free.......
If only you'd asked.
Thank you for offering... But after removing the ignition barrel we found that part of the problem was the lock on the steering column itself had failed. I did have someone lined up to fix the ignition barrel, but that never materialised,..If only you'd asked.
Would you like to enlighten us on the fix anyway? I'm sure there will be many others who will end up facing what is a common issue with these cars.
Went and did a bit more shopping at my local BMW dealership over the last week.
Got a replacement vent pipe, bung and expansion chamber for the battery compartment - as mine was missing - to stop the battery compartment rotting out.
Bought replacement external door handle rubbers - to tidy up the look of the car as mine were looking a bit tatty. Got a feeling that they might be a bit of a pain to fit...
Got a replacement handbrake sensor - as the last mechanic managed to destroy the original.
And as my original starter motor had given up the ghost - and was now completely seized.
I bought a brand new starter Motor from West Lancs Electrical for £78 including VAT, delivery and an eighteen month warranty to boot!
And got it fitted.
Bought new middle section exhaust brackets and rubbers - as the last mechanic managed to loose the originals...
And got them fitted.
The underside of the car is now nearing completion...
Have had the old clutch slave cylinder removed.
And the replacement Delphi 3.0 litre M3 version fitted. The original bracket the went from the old flexi line to a short steel pipe, pictured above, was deleted as the new braided line was plenty long enough - one less connection.
Complete with new Hel stainless steel braided line.
And finally, for this installment, I bought a new ignition switch - as the original also decided to give up the ghost and was no longer passing power to the starter motor solenoid.
Well, writing this latest installment has been so engrossing that my cat has completely given up on getting any attention, and has made better use of her time by going to sleep.
Time for me too, night night...
Got a replacement vent pipe, bung and expansion chamber for the battery compartment - as mine was missing - to stop the battery compartment rotting out.
Bought replacement external door handle rubbers - to tidy up the look of the car as mine were looking a bit tatty. Got a feeling that they might be a bit of a pain to fit...
Got a replacement handbrake sensor - as the last mechanic managed to destroy the original.
And as my original starter motor had given up the ghost - and was now completely seized.
I bought a brand new starter Motor from West Lancs Electrical for £78 including VAT, delivery and an eighteen month warranty to boot!
And got it fitted.
Bought new middle section exhaust brackets and rubbers - as the last mechanic managed to loose the originals...
And got them fitted.
The underside of the car is now nearing completion...
Have had the old clutch slave cylinder removed.
And the replacement Delphi 3.0 litre M3 version fitted. The original bracket the went from the old flexi line to a short steel pipe, pictured above, was deleted as the new braided line was plenty long enough - one less connection.
Complete with new Hel stainless steel braided line.
And finally, for this installment, I bought a new ignition switch - as the original also decided to give up the ghost and was no longer passing power to the starter motor solenoid.
Well, writing this latest installment has been so engrossing that my cat has completely given up on getting any attention, and has made better use of her time by going to sleep.
Time for me too, night night...
helix402 said:
External door handle covers can be removed very quickly and simply. Open door, remove plug at end of door. Insert special tool, slide retainer back, remove trim. Fit new one. Slide retainer forward. Sorted.
It’s been a while since I did one. But that’ll be close enough.
Or remove door trim panel and do it the long way.
Thanks for the tip mate. Will get that sorted next week. I have, however, already got the door cards off - or should I say, I haven't refitted them yet - so either way would work for me...It’s been a while since I did one. But that’ll be close enough.
Or remove door trim panel and do it the long way.
Edited by RickBristol on Friday 8th June 16:46
It's now time for one of the last updates before the car is finally finished!
The brakes...
Have now had the replacement 3.0 litre M3 brake servo, master and reservoir fitted.
Have also fitted the new Hel braided stainless steel flexi brake lines to the front brake calipers.
Have fitted the refurbed E46 328 brake calipers and carriers, together with the EBC Red Stuff ceramic disc pads - to help with the brake imbalance, due to having the much larger E46 330 front brake discs and calipers fitted.
Left side.
And right side.
Have then had the new Hel braided stainless steel flexi brake lines to the new powder coated brackets on the trailing arms and new 'S' shaped solid connecting brake lines fitted.
And the the new Hel braided stainless steel flexi brake lines from the new powder coated bracket on the trailing arm to the rear brake calipers.
Here you can see the new bolts for the rear shocks to the trailing arms have been fitted - as opposed to the incorrect ones that were fitted by the last 'mechanic', as he had lost the originals...
Next, the clutch, brake servo, brakes and purple tag power steering rack are going to be bled to get everything working.
The brakes...
Have now had the replacement 3.0 litre M3 brake servo, master and reservoir fitted.
Have also fitted the new Hel braided stainless steel flexi brake lines to the front brake calipers.
Have fitted the refurbed E46 328 brake calipers and carriers, together with the EBC Red Stuff ceramic disc pads - to help with the brake imbalance, due to having the much larger E46 330 front brake discs and calipers fitted.
Left side.
And right side.
Have then had the new Hel braided stainless steel flexi brake lines to the new powder coated brackets on the trailing arms and new 'S' shaped solid connecting brake lines fitted.
And the the new Hel braided stainless steel flexi brake lines from the new powder coated bracket on the trailing arm to the rear brake calipers.
Here you can see the new bolts for the rear shocks to the trailing arms have been fitted - as opposed to the incorrect ones that were fitted by the last 'mechanic', as he had lost the originals...
Next, the clutch, brake servo, brakes and purple tag power steering rack are going to be bled to get everything working.
Went over to the garage to give the mechanic a hand to finish the final mechanical tasks today as the car goes off for it's MOT in three and a half years on Wednesday.
First up was to fix an annoying leak on the diff drain plug. We decided drain the original oil and refill with some fresh Castrol Syntrax LSD oil.
And also fitted two new copper washers, as the diff had metal washers fitted that were causing the leak in the first place...
We then checked the braided brake line connections and bled the brakes.
Next up was fitting the new ABS sensors as the last 'mechanic' managed to damage them when stripping the rear suspension
, some months back. £72 each!!!! 
Bolted to the trailing arms and cable tied the wires to the suspension arms too.
I then fitted the new rear brake pad wear sensor and refitted the casings for both the ABS and brake wear sensor connectors.
Fitted the new front brake pad wear sensor and cable tied it to the shock, as the plastic retaining clip was knackered.
We then fitted the freshly powder coated heat shield for the air filter.
And finally, for today, fitted the replacement top engine and custom fuel rail covers.
First up was to fix an annoying leak on the diff drain plug. We decided drain the original oil and refill with some fresh Castrol Syntrax LSD oil.
And also fitted two new copper washers, as the diff had metal washers fitted that were causing the leak in the first place...
We then checked the braided brake line connections and bled the brakes.
Next up was fitting the new ABS sensors as the last 'mechanic' managed to damage them when stripping the rear suspension
, some months back. £72 each!!!! Bolted to the trailing arms and cable tied the wires to the suspension arms too.
I then fitted the new rear brake pad wear sensor and refitted the casings for both the ABS and brake wear sensor connectors.
Fitted the new front brake pad wear sensor and cable tied it to the shock, as the plastic retaining clip was knackered.
We then fitted the freshly powder coated heat shield for the air filter.
And finally, for today, fitted the replacement top engine and custom fuel rail covers.
'Some' of the mountain of interior parts that still need to be fitted to the car.
As I'm going back to the garage to finish fitting the interior on Monday, I decided to treat the replacement interior - my original was shagged - to some leather cleaner and conditioner. Came up a treat too.
Going to enjoy doing this final part.
As I'm going back to the garage to finish fitting the interior on Monday, I decided to treat the replacement interior - my original was shagged - to some leather cleaner and conditioner. Came up a treat too.
Going to enjoy doing this final part.
Did I say "I'm going to enjoy this final part"?....
STUPID BOY! Should have known that I was tempting fate........
Firstly, let's return to the rear brake setup. I had a pair of e46 328i calipers and carriers that I bought second hand and had them sand blasted and powder coated.
Well, once fitted to the car and the brakes bled, it was found that the rear brakes were binding. So on further inspection, we realised that the carriers were actually from the e46 330i and were causing the calipers to sit too high, resulting in only half of the brake pad touching the discs. Also, there is a bit of casting on the carriers that was rubbing on the discs, which is what was causing the binding in the first place. So, off to BMW to buy the correct e46 328i carriers, as they are a main dealer only part - £125 each as well!...
We also found that the calipers themselves were not operating as smoothly as we would have liked, despite having been refurbed with a rebuild kit. So, off to Euro Car Parts to buy a new pair of e46 328i calipers. Only £89 each with a promotional code and after returning the original calipers to them. £160 each otherwise.... They came complete with new pistons and much better seals and were ready assembled too...
Checking that they fit together correctly.
We could now start fitting them.
And job done.
The lesson to take away from this. DON'T rely on second hand mechanical parts! It can really bite you hard: the cost of original parts, fitting them, taking them back off, then buying and fitting proper parts - same thing happened earlier in this thread with the starter motor...
STUPID BOY! Should have known that I was tempting fate........
Firstly, let's return to the rear brake setup. I had a pair of e46 328i calipers and carriers that I bought second hand and had them sand blasted and powder coated.
Well, once fitted to the car and the brakes bled, it was found that the rear brakes were binding. So on further inspection, we realised that the carriers were actually from the e46 330i and were causing the calipers to sit too high, resulting in only half of the brake pad touching the discs. Also, there is a bit of casting on the carriers that was rubbing on the discs, which is what was causing the binding in the first place. So, off to BMW to buy the correct e46 328i carriers, as they are a main dealer only part - £125 each as well!...
We also found that the calipers themselves were not operating as smoothly as we would have liked, despite having been refurbed with a rebuild kit. So, off to Euro Car Parts to buy a new pair of e46 328i calipers. Only £89 each with a promotional code and after returning the original calipers to them. £160 each otherwise.... They came complete with new pistons and much better seals and were ready assembled too...
Checking that they fit together correctly.
We could now start fitting them.
And job done.
The lesson to take away from this. DON'T rely on second hand mechanical parts! It can really bite you hard: the cost of original parts, fitting them, taking them back off, then buying and fitting proper parts - same thing happened earlier in this thread with the starter motor...
SidewaysSi said:
Thanks all. I need someone to supply and fit the bits. BW Chip tune are near me but don't seem interested. Any other ideas (SE region).
Enda at endtuning.com Check this guy out. Used to be a chip tuner and is a BMW specialist. Don't go anywhere else mate. You can post it to him with a list of mods and he'll turn it around the same day and post it back to you. Had mine back in two days. .Well, it seems like an absolute age since I last updated the thread. Its been a lot of work / money sunk into the last few months, even when you think the end is in sight. I have also been very busy with work, so haven't had much time to do an update.
I must also admit, that for a while there, I had started to fall out of love with the car. Took too long, drained me of way too much money, AND stubbornly refused to play ball as we tried to drag it over the line. A bit like trying to drag a dead horse that's been welded to the floor up a VERY steep hill........
So, I now feel that it's time to record some of the last parts of this rebuild, and actually have got some of my enthusiasm for it back...
So let's go. First up is a few pics of the car when we, foolishly, thought we were almost done. Car started, ran and everything...
I even bought the b
h some new interior door handle surround clips - the originals no longer worked properly, AND some lovely chrome edged window switches.
Got the remapped ECU back from Enda at EndTuning.
And how did she repay us?...
Although the car ran, it idled badly and wouldn't rev properly once it got hot!!!
What we came to realise is, although most of the electro-mechanical sensors were working in the past, as the car has been pretty much stood for nearly three and a half years. The moisture and dirt that may have found its way into some of them has caused them to fail...
The offending throttle position sensor.
The replacement crank position sensor and ABS sensor...
The replacement Vanos solenoid.
And fitted.
Once all these sensors were replaced, the car ran perfectly AND passed the MOT. I'd like ot have said 'Happy Days' at the time, but I can assure you I really wasn't feeling it...
Have got another more interesting update coming next...
I must also admit, that for a while there, I had started to fall out of love with the car. Took too long, drained me of way too much money, AND stubbornly refused to play ball as we tried to drag it over the line. A bit like trying to drag a dead horse that's been welded to the floor up a VERY steep hill........
So, I now feel that it's time to record some of the last parts of this rebuild, and actually have got some of my enthusiasm for it back...
So let's go. First up is a few pics of the car when we, foolishly, thought we were almost done. Car started, ran and everything...
I even bought the b
h some new interior door handle surround clips - the originals no longer worked properly, AND some lovely chrome edged window switches.Got the remapped ECU back from Enda at EndTuning.
And how did she repay us?...
Although the car ran, it idled badly and wouldn't rev properly once it got hot!!!
What we came to realise is, although most of the electro-mechanical sensors were working in the past, as the car has been pretty much stood for nearly three and a half years. The moisture and dirt that may have found its way into some of them has caused them to fail...
The offending throttle position sensor.
The replacement crank position sensor and ABS sensor...
The replacement Vanos solenoid.
And fitted.
Once all these sensors were replaced, the car ran perfectly AND passed the MOT. I'd like ot have said 'Happy Days' at the time, but I can assure you I really wasn't feeling it...
Have got another more interesting update coming next...
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