Ford Mustang 2013 GT Track Pack
Discussion
This thread needs a soundtrack.
Marshall Tucker Band-Cant you see
https://youtu.be/GZZ7cogovrY
After some more research on the springs. Ford Racing sell 2 types of springs K and P.
They are rebranded eibachs.
K being the sportline, the most aggressive drop.
P being the pro kit, the less aggressive drop.
Ford Racing recommend the P springs for optimum handing which are the ones I have.
Spring is here so I took the Vstrom to the auto parts store to borrow a compresser again.
Once I got
home I noticed one of the washers on the spring compressor was missing. So it took me a long time to get the steeda heavy duty strut mount on level so the 2 halves would not separate. The key is to compress the spring evenly a small amount at a time in increments.
The old strut mount.
The steeda items require the reuse of the spring perches so I cleaned them up.
The steeda HD strut mounts.
Once installed I remember that when I installed the rear shocks and springs I did not check the position of the rear axle.
Now I did do this when I installed the white line adjustable panhard rod and support bar.
I used one of the guts from 550 cord, tried a small socket to it for weight and attached with painters tape at the top dead center position of the fender/wheel arch. Then measure from the center of the hub to the string.
Do this on both sides and compare the measurements. Both were dead on equal.
The mustang is at Firestone having the alignment done, I told them to set it to -0.9 camber, factory is -0.7.
So far it feels a lot more confidence inspiring in the corners. The acceleration squat is reduced, alot I have not yet checked the nose dive but overall I am impressed.
Marshall Tucker Band-Cant you see
https://youtu.be/GZZ7cogovrY
After some more research on the springs. Ford Racing sell 2 types of springs K and P.
They are rebranded eibachs.
K being the sportline, the most aggressive drop.
P being the pro kit, the less aggressive drop.
Ford Racing recommend the P springs for optimum handing which are the ones I have.
Spring is here so I took the Vstrom to the auto parts store to borrow a compresser again.
Once I got
home I noticed one of the washers on the spring compressor was missing. So it took me a long time to get the steeda heavy duty strut mount on level so the 2 halves would not separate. The key is to compress the spring evenly a small amount at a time in increments.
The old strut mount.
The steeda items require the reuse of the spring perches so I cleaned them up.
The steeda HD strut mounts.
Once installed I remember that when I installed the rear shocks and springs I did not check the position of the rear axle.
Now I did do this when I installed the white line adjustable panhard rod and support bar.
I used one of the guts from 550 cord, tried a small socket to it for weight and attached with painters tape at the top dead center position of the fender/wheel arch. Then measure from the center of the hub to the string.
Do this on both sides and compare the measurements. Both were dead on equal.
The mustang is at Firestone having the alignment done, I told them to set it to -0.9 camber, factory is -0.7.
So far it feels a lot more confidence inspiring in the corners. The acceleration squat is reduced, alot I have not yet checked the nose dive but overall I am impressed.
Edited by 5ohmustang on Tuesday 28th February 01:16
Punjab Black Mustang https://youtu.be/ui_eyoFTaog , no clue what he's singing but I like it. https://youtu.be/yt_GL-WG3oI
The alignment is now perfect, it feels like the turn in is more sharp. There is no more wallowing and it gives the confidence to push it harder and faster through the corners. Also when gunning it, the rear no longer squats and the hood raises, it"s pretty much level throughout each shift. My wife just drove it and she can tell there is a big difference in the dynamics of the handling.
Nose dive is also gone. No more of this during emergency braking.
The alignment is now perfect, it feels like the turn in is more sharp. There is no more wallowing and it gives the confidence to push it harder and faster through the corners. Also when gunning it, the rear no longer squats and the hood raises, it"s pretty much level throughout each shift. My wife just drove it and she can tell there is a big difference in the dynamics of the handling.
Nose dive is also gone. No more of this during emergency braking.
Edited by 5ohmustang on Tuesday 28th February 03:49
This week I had Ford complete the Death Bag recall. I've been waiting 2 years. It didn't take them long to swap out the part.
I'm debating whether to keep the leather steering wheel or switch to the boss 302 alacantara item when I come to upgrading the interior. I don't feel too confident seeing a lot of nasty matted alacantara steering wheels. They look great and feel nice new but I seriously question their durability.
I was in a Boss 302 at a Porsche dealership and that too looked shagged.
I am very satisfied with the exterior now. Even dirty, she looks great.
Spotted this 3rd gen firebird.
Because, Murica'.
The final modification to the exterior will be the Ford Racing front brake ducts.
I am piecing the kit by each component instead of buying the kit as it's a bit cheaper. I already have the bezels, just need the bezel adapters for the hi temp tuning to the ported brake shields.
Then I need to repair and replace a few things before I start on the interior.
Meanwhile this makes me happy
https://youtu.be/kql9VETdAgI
I'm debating whether to keep the leather steering wheel or switch to the boss 302 alacantara item when I come to upgrading the interior. I don't feel too confident seeing a lot of nasty matted alacantara steering wheels. They look great and feel nice new but I seriously question their durability.
I was in a Boss 302 at a Porsche dealership and that too looked shagged.
I am very satisfied with the exterior now. Even dirty, she looks great.
Spotted this 3rd gen firebird.
Because, Murica'.
The final modification to the exterior will be the Ford Racing front brake ducts.
I am piecing the kit by each component instead of buying the kit as it's a bit cheaper. I already have the bezels, just need the bezel adapters for the hi temp tuning to the ported brake shields.
Then I need to repair and replace a few things before I start on the interior.
Meanwhile this makes me happy
https://youtu.be/kql9VETdAgI
Edited by 5ohmustang on Thursday 2nd March 06:05
kapiteinlangzaam said:
That Mazda appeals. The amount of gauges satisfies me.
I guess that Skyline is just over the 25 yr rule. There will be more and more appearing over the coming years. Im waiting for my Alfa Spider to be 25 years old and then ill sell it to some lovely American for lots and lots of $$$$$$.
At least thats the plan
I like the red symbology everywhere on the switchgear and gauges. It's very similar to the Mitsubishi Station.I guess that Skyline is just over the 25 yr rule. There will be more and more appearing over the coming years. Im waiting for my Alfa Spider to be 25 years old and then ill sell it to some lovely American for lots and lots of $$$$$$.
At least thats the plan
When I left England I recall R32 gtr's selling on the low end at 6k gbp's. They sell here around $25k.
I'd really like a pulsar gtir, they sell around $13k.
Correct me if I am wrong but I thought Alfa spiders were sold on the US domestic market, so they should be dot approved exempting it from the 25 year rule. I have definitely seen them here before.
I've not had the time to drive the Mustang, but I took her out today for a wash.
When driving her around I still get compliments from strangers.
It is hard to capture the true shade of grabber blue and the proportions of the Mustang on camera, especially the ride height which is lower than what it looks like on here.
I took a clay bar to the doors and skirts. It had a fair amount of road tar prior to fitting the front mud flaps.
By the time I had all the imperfections off, the light was fading fast so the pics look dark. I'll do some better ones tomorrow.
I replaced the drivers window seal as the old one had a slight tear in it. I installed a new OEM one but it is now whistling wind. It looks like the glass is not all the way up. I think the glass has to be indexed.
Where most of my time goes.
When driving her around I still get compliments from strangers.
It is hard to capture the true shade of grabber blue and the proportions of the Mustang on camera, especially the ride height which is lower than what it looks like on here.
I took a clay bar to the doors and skirts. It had a fair amount of road tar prior to fitting the front mud flaps.
By the time I had all the imperfections off, the light was fading fast so the pics look dark. I'll do some better ones tomorrow.
I replaced the drivers window seal as the old one had a slight tear in it. I installed a new OEM one but it is now whistling wind. It looks like the glass is not all the way up. I think the glass has to be indexed.
Where most of my time goes.
anomaly said:
Car and house both look awesome, well done.
Thank you very much. When I came here I had the bare minimum capital to satisfy visa requirements. However I worked my ass of, budgeted, saved everything I could.
If I could visit my 21 year old self at a Skoda dealership in Bury buying a brand new Skoda Octavia vrs, I'd punch him in the face.
Jonmx said:
Looking good! That's a cracking colour isn't it, reminiscent of Porsche Riviera blue, but really suits the Mustang.
Loving the I don't call 911 sign. My friend's uncle on moving to Alabama (he's a Brit) had a visit by the local Sheriff and they had a good chat. He was given the advice that if you shoot someone on your property, drag them back into the house as it makes clearing up the investigation a whole lot easier!
Yes the riveria blue looks how grabber blue looks like in real life, I guess Porsche owners can afford much better cameras that take a true likeness of the color.Loving the I don't call 911 sign. My friend's uncle on moving to Alabama (he's a Brit) had a visit by the local Sheriff and they had a good chat. He was given the advice that if you shoot someone on your property, drag them back into the house as it makes clearing up the investigation a whole lot easier!
I don't call 911, I have 556 on speed dial.
Crime is very low here, real tradgedies are along the lines of having your chickens stolen by Billy Bob.
However it would take a while for a sheriff deputy to respond out in the country. I don't feel like dominating the stairs for an hour.
Your friends uncle is correct though, just don't shoot anyone in the back.
Not sure if I posted this before, good video.
https://youtu.be/hCVsBeWDJgQ
Some better pics.
The bilsteins have not been adjusted yet from the factory settings, but it handled the small country roads great. It never felt unbalanced or wallowy.
I'm going to find a local machine shop to cut off the exhaust resernators on the mid pipe.
The black mustang posted previously sounds immense. Since it's aft of the cats I don't need to worry about a sct tuner.
Right now I am avoiding any engine mod bolt one as other than long tube headers, decatted x pipe, I am going straight for a roots style supercharger.
That will avoid the expense of an intake manifold, throttle body and cold air intake.
The supercharger alone like a vmp stage 3 will take it above 600 without anything else.
It's the cheapest and most effective way of getting big power. Anything above that a roadrunner coyote is needed.
https://youtu.be/hCVsBeWDJgQ
Some better pics.
The bilsteins have not been adjusted yet from the factory settings, but it handled the small country roads great. It never felt unbalanced or wallowy.
I'm going to find a local machine shop to cut off the exhaust resernators on the mid pipe.
The black mustang posted previously sounds immense. Since it's aft of the cats I don't need to worry about a sct tuner.
Right now I am avoiding any engine mod bolt one as other than long tube headers, decatted x pipe, I am going straight for a roots style supercharger.
That will avoid the expense of an intake manifold, throttle body and cold air intake.
The supercharger alone like a vmp stage 3 will take it above 600 without anything else.
It's the cheapest and most effective way of getting big power. Anything above that a roadrunner coyote is needed.
Edited by 5ohmustang on Sunday 16th April 22:29
I've been waiting for a while to find a used Cover craft Pocket Pod for the trunk. I got this one, half price for $60 on eBay. Pull out the push pins for the existing trunk lid trim and reinsert the pocket pod over the existing trim piece.
I've been waiting for a while to find a used Cover craft Pocket Pod for the trunk. I got this one, half price for $60 on eBay. Pull out the push pins for the existing trunk lid trim and reinsert with the pocket pod over the existing trim piece.
I've been waiting for a while to find a used Cover craft Pocket Pod for the trunk. I got this one, half price for $60 on eBay. Pull out the push pins for the existing trunk lid trim and reinsert with the pocket pod over the existing trim piece.
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