My e36 track car
Discussion
BGarside - the induction kit gives a lovely noise, properly barks at the top of the rev range!
The BBT, there was a definite improvement in how quickly the car revs up. I havn't had it remapped since fitting, so it just has the 'M50 manifold map'. I want to take the car to a proper dyno and have it mapped properly once I've finished all my little bits and bobs.
The X-brace, again i noticed an improvement with the stiffness in the front end. Where it felt before that, especially on bumpy roads, that each side of the front end moved separately, it feels like the front end moves 'as one' now, if that makes sense. Did it make a massive improvement on track? Id say so, but wether or not thats a placebo effect or not is another question...
SebringMan - The lower arms I fitted with the car in the air, but everything was still in place. All we did was push the bottom of the wheel away from the car, given us enough room to get the arm on.
Funnily, I have a set of Pagid RS29s sat waiting to get fitted. Im going to put them on before my next day (looking like the 12th of Feb atm). They were alot more expensive (for fronts, ebc yellows £65, Pagid Rs29 £215 :| ), but they should last longer and give me better braking, so hopefully they'll be worth it!
Humour - Ye, I'll be fitting the RTAs hopefully as soon as i pick it back up from getting the cage fitted in a couple weeks. Hopefully get them off to the powdercoaters next week all going well!
F0xy is the one whose been given me lot of the ideas (look at his thread and you'll see why!). The only time the oil has went into the yellow on my gauge (so above 100degrees) was sat in traffic for ages and not moving...
My oil filter has the thermostat removed so the oil flows through the cooler constantly.
Well I want to get to Bedford soon, failing that, I can take the all the bits with me to swindon if you're close by and you can have it for peanuts!
After most track days, I was changing my oil, as it smelt, well rather burnt if Im honest. So I'm hoping the cooler will stop that!
Ferosferio - cheers lad! appreciated!
Anyway, it's been another busy week for the car... (surprise surprise)
Since the car is going in on sunday to get it's cage fitted, I decided to remove the heating now to get it out of the way.
Firstly, I removed the manifold and quickly figured out how I wanted to loop the coolant hoses that go thro the bulkhead. I nipped to pirtek and grab a foot of ¾ hose and a ¾ brass bard. Disconnected the pipes leading into the heater valve (I didn't drain the coolant before hand so I had to make sure the hoses constantly pointed upwards!!) and cut and shutted the hoses together.
Before
After
Because the pipes you want to connect to run in parallel, you need 180degree, which is bloody hard with pipes that aren't preformed in such a tight space. As you can see, it has caused abit kinking. Straight away I wasn't happy. Although this won't affect the coolant, as when the heater is off, no coolant flows this way, having free flowing pipes can only be better than not. So I was back on eBay and i've purchased 2x 90degree silicone pipes and a alloy connector. I havn't went with a 180 degree pipe as trying to find one that was wide enough to get to both connections was like rocking horses
t.
After that, I removed the heater valve and the pipes going into the bulkhead.
Everytime I've taken the manifold off, I've always noticed it had a slight coating of oil on the inside. Until now, i always thought this was normal... After doing abit of research, I know it really shouldn't... I know if I replaced and repositioned the CCV (the m50 conversion kit leaves it hanging around), it would probably sit it, but thats boring! So i've got a catch can on the way...
I also removed the charcoal canistor while I had everything off. The manifold connection had already broken (for the 2nd time), so I plugged it off on the manifold itself.
Airtight!
I still need to re-route the fuel tank vent away from the engine bay, but it's not causing any issues. I know some people leave the purge valve solenoid connected when doing this delete, but I've taken mine off and the car hasn't given me any issues (haven't plugged it in yet to see if there are any codes tho...)
So, with the heating disconnected, I removed the dash, again. Removing the matrix was a pain in the ass, because i didn't bloody disconnect the aircon pipe thats in the bulkhead itself. Not going to lie, took my about 30mins to realise!
All that weight saving...
The one problem with removing the heating, is the big old hole that gets left in the bulkhead!
So something had to be done.
After my grinder died trying to make the radiator mounts, I bought myself a jigsaw and straight away I wish i had done so sooner!
I quickly got the rough shape then painted it black. Using the the heater matrix mounts and a bead of sealant around the edges, I got it fitted.
All that space underneath the dash now.
I knew I was going to have to buy a plate to fit in the dash to cover the holes and also for fitting my switches...
After thinking and speaking to Sean (BMW dynamics) he reassured me I there was no-reason I couldn't make my own, and if it went pear shaped, I could buy one from him! (think he was trying to keep the list of things he has to do to my car as short as he can...)
Template was made!
And cut out in the 2mm alloy sheet I had! It's not a perfect fit, but I made it, and I'm proud that I done it. The fact that I done it with a jigsaw and a dremel, on a normal table, can't be put down!
To hold it on place, I've screwed 2 brackets into the inside of the dash and fitted them with 2 threaded rivets. I had considered having the brackets tabbed onto the plate, but that would make removing it a ballache, and with this way, it's easy to get to the back and sort any problems.
Holes drilled and painted black! Now to start fitting my guages/switches...
Started fitting. Its bit rough not, but once I've fitted all the swtichies, I'll dismantle it again and properly paint it.
The oil temp guide, I've got the gauge set up so it stays green until 100deg, yellow to 120deg and then red...
This weekend is the big one, car is going in for a full custom cage!
The BBT, there was a definite improvement in how quickly the car revs up. I havn't had it remapped since fitting, so it just has the 'M50 manifold map'. I want to take the car to a proper dyno and have it mapped properly once I've finished all my little bits and bobs.
The X-brace, again i noticed an improvement with the stiffness in the front end. Where it felt before that, especially on bumpy roads, that each side of the front end moved separately, it feels like the front end moves 'as one' now, if that makes sense. Did it make a massive improvement on track? Id say so, but wether or not thats a placebo effect or not is another question...
SebringMan - The lower arms I fitted with the car in the air, but everything was still in place. All we did was push the bottom of the wheel away from the car, given us enough room to get the arm on.
Funnily, I have a set of Pagid RS29s sat waiting to get fitted. Im going to put them on before my next day (looking like the 12th of Feb atm). They were alot more expensive (for fronts, ebc yellows £65, Pagid Rs29 £215 :| ), but they should last longer and give me better braking, so hopefully they'll be worth it!
Humour - Ye, I'll be fitting the RTAs hopefully as soon as i pick it back up from getting the cage fitted in a couple weeks. Hopefully get them off to the powdercoaters next week all going well!
F0xy is the one whose been given me lot of the ideas (look at his thread and you'll see why!). The only time the oil has went into the yellow on my gauge (so above 100degrees) was sat in traffic for ages and not moving...
My oil filter has the thermostat removed so the oil flows through the cooler constantly.
Well I want to get to Bedford soon, failing that, I can take the all the bits with me to swindon if you're close by and you can have it for peanuts!
After most track days, I was changing my oil, as it smelt, well rather burnt if Im honest. So I'm hoping the cooler will stop that!
Ferosferio - cheers lad! appreciated!
Anyway, it's been another busy week for the car... (surprise surprise)
Since the car is going in on sunday to get it's cage fitted, I decided to remove the heating now to get it out of the way.
Firstly, I removed the manifold and quickly figured out how I wanted to loop the coolant hoses that go thro the bulkhead. I nipped to pirtek and grab a foot of ¾ hose and a ¾ brass bard. Disconnected the pipes leading into the heater valve (I didn't drain the coolant before hand so I had to make sure the hoses constantly pointed upwards!!) and cut and shutted the hoses together.
Before
After
Because the pipes you want to connect to run in parallel, you need 180degree, which is bloody hard with pipes that aren't preformed in such a tight space. As you can see, it has caused abit kinking. Straight away I wasn't happy. Although this won't affect the coolant, as when the heater is off, no coolant flows this way, having free flowing pipes can only be better than not. So I was back on eBay and i've purchased 2x 90degree silicone pipes and a alloy connector. I havn't went with a 180 degree pipe as trying to find one that was wide enough to get to both connections was like rocking horses
t.After that, I removed the heater valve and the pipes going into the bulkhead.
Everytime I've taken the manifold off, I've always noticed it had a slight coating of oil on the inside. Until now, i always thought this was normal... After doing abit of research, I know it really shouldn't... I know if I replaced and repositioned the CCV (the m50 conversion kit leaves it hanging around), it would probably sit it, but thats boring! So i've got a catch can on the way...
I also removed the charcoal canistor while I had everything off. The manifold connection had already broken (for the 2nd time), so I plugged it off on the manifold itself.
Airtight!
I still need to re-route the fuel tank vent away from the engine bay, but it's not causing any issues. I know some people leave the purge valve solenoid connected when doing this delete, but I've taken mine off and the car hasn't given me any issues (haven't plugged it in yet to see if there are any codes tho...)
So, with the heating disconnected, I removed the dash, again. Removing the matrix was a pain in the ass, because i didn't bloody disconnect the aircon pipe thats in the bulkhead itself. Not going to lie, took my about 30mins to realise!
All that weight saving...
The one problem with removing the heating, is the big old hole that gets left in the bulkhead!
So something had to be done.
After my grinder died trying to make the radiator mounts, I bought myself a jigsaw and straight away I wish i had done so sooner!
I quickly got the rough shape then painted it black. Using the the heater matrix mounts and a bead of sealant around the edges, I got it fitted.
All that space underneath the dash now.
I knew I was going to have to buy a plate to fit in the dash to cover the holes and also for fitting my switches...
After thinking and speaking to Sean (BMW dynamics) he reassured me I there was no-reason I couldn't make my own, and if it went pear shaped, I could buy one from him! (think he was trying to keep the list of things he has to do to my car as short as he can...)
Template was made!
And cut out in the 2mm alloy sheet I had! It's not a perfect fit, but I made it, and I'm proud that I done it. The fact that I done it with a jigsaw and a dremel, on a normal table, can't be put down!
To hold it on place, I've screwed 2 brackets into the inside of the dash and fitted them with 2 threaded rivets. I had considered having the brackets tabbed onto the plate, but that would make removing it a ballache, and with this way, it's easy to get to the back and sort any problems.
Holes drilled and painted black! Now to start fitting my guages/switches...
Started fitting. Its bit rough not, but once I've fitted all the swtichies, I'll dismantle it again and properly paint it.
The oil temp guide, I've got the gauge set up so it stays green until 100deg, yellow to 120deg and then red...
This weekend is the big one, car is going in for a full custom cage!
Edited by brian394 on Friday 9th January 01:22
Epic build you have there mate, very informative, well done. I think you may regret removing the heater though, one of my mates removed his from his Astra track car, and although it's fine in the summer months, he finds it's a complete pain through the winter months, leaving the car damp and very cold.
Good luck with the build, I can't wait to see the next instalment with the cage.
Good luck with the build, I can't wait to see the next instalment with the cage.
fair do's that is very impressive work! My little Peugeot is not half as well setup!
Not sure my wife would let me get away with all the trick bits as the bank balance gets battered enough with trackdays!
Keep up the good work, i really hope to be able to get to this level of setup eventually
Not sure my wife would let me get away with all the trick bits as the bank balance gets battered enough with trackdays!
Keep up the good work, i really hope to be able to get to this level of setup eventually
Looking good Brian.
One thing however bothers me a little bit and might be worth your consideration. The heater removal and re-plumbing into the block looks ok, however we know that water takes the path of least resistance, that loop from the back of the block to the side of the block looks like a pretty big gauge.
Now I'm not an expert on the BMW cooling system by any means, but assuming that the heater matrix was previously controlling the flow of hot water through the heater system with valves (I doubt it is done internally in the block???), that would suggest that when the heater is off (valve closed), then water wouldn't flow out of the back of the block, but instead use internal channels in the block, whilst with the heater on (valve open) it would circulate through the heater system and back in the side of the block.
So the effect of the re-plumbing on the engine is equivalent to having the heater on "all" the time, but with one exception. Hot engine water now has 2 choices of flow, one using the internal channels (valve closed) and one using the external (plumbed loop/valve open).
If this holds true, then water will pick the path of least resistance as we know, so the big question is, if the plumbed channel offers less resistance, then it is possible for the internal water channel not to flow as much water as it would with the valve closed, thus in theory it is possible to end up with a hot spot in that part of engine as a result.
Personally, I would just block off that connection, or at least install some sort of a flow restrictor in that line, to ensure engine circulation is not affected. Last thing we want is a warped head and a blown gasket. Perhaps your friend at BMW Dynamics can give you some wisdom on the subject?
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Lastly, what type and grade of oil are you using, just curious, as good oil should last more than one track day even if it is working at 120C.
Thanks for your kind offer on the surplus bits.
For peanuts I would happily drive to Swindon or further to pick up. I don't know if there is a pm system on this board, but I'm happy to get in touch whichever way suits to arrange. 
Humour
One thing however bothers me a little bit and might be worth your consideration. The heater removal and re-plumbing into the block looks ok, however we know that water takes the path of least resistance, that loop from the back of the block to the side of the block looks like a pretty big gauge.
Now I'm not an expert on the BMW cooling system by any means, but assuming that the heater matrix was previously controlling the flow of hot water through the heater system with valves (I doubt it is done internally in the block???), that would suggest that when the heater is off (valve closed), then water wouldn't flow out of the back of the block, but instead use internal channels in the block, whilst with the heater on (valve open) it would circulate through the heater system and back in the side of the block.
So the effect of the re-plumbing on the engine is equivalent to having the heater on "all" the time, but with one exception. Hot engine water now has 2 choices of flow, one using the internal channels (valve closed) and one using the external (plumbed loop/valve open).
If this holds true, then water will pick the path of least resistance as we know, so the big question is, if the plumbed channel offers less resistance, then it is possible for the internal water channel not to flow as much water as it would with the valve closed, thus in theory it is possible to end up with a hot spot in that part of engine as a result.
Personally, I would just block off that connection, or at least install some sort of a flow restrictor in that line, to ensure engine circulation is not affected. Last thing we want is a warped head and a blown gasket. Perhaps your friend at BMW Dynamics can give you some wisdom on the subject?
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Lastly, what type and grade of oil are you using, just curious, as good oil should last more than one track day even if it is working at 120C.
Thanks for your kind offer on the surplus bits.
For peanuts I would happily drive to Swindon or further to pick up. I don't know if there is a pm system on this board, but I'm happy to get in touch whichever way suits to arrange. Humour
Edited by Humour on Sunday 11th January 11:34
This like another E36 thread has been a superb read going through how things are going with the car.
I am with the others on the heater removal. I have known of people to regain 5-10 seconds a lap by simply reinstalling a heater! The reason? We as much we love to man up do not work as well with us being cold and even that becomes irrelevant if you cannot see where you are going as a result of condensation inside the car!
Keep up the great work.
I am with the others on the heater removal. I have known of people to regain 5-10 seconds a lap by simply reinstalling a heater! The reason? We as much we love to man up do not work as well with us being cold and even that becomes irrelevant if you cannot see where you are going as a result of condensation inside the car!
Keep up the great work
.Cheers lads!
Humour - What you're saying shouldn't happen. Once the coolant has been through the heater matrix it goes back to the radiator, not back into the head. I looked through lots of different builds and spoke to as many people as I could and it was between the block off option or the loop way. I spoke to a few of the kumho bmw championship drivers (including one at autosport yesterday) and the ones I have spoke to have looped the system and not had any problems with overheating.
The oil changing, I know the oil could have lasted longer, but the amount of crap that was coming out the first few times after being driven hard, made sense to change. Now that everything is better/cleaner/cooler, I'm going to be changing a lot less now. I was using castrol and now millers, always been 5/40wt. Next change, which will probably be in the middle of the year, I'll go 10/50.
Sebring - being a military person, I've always been taught, there's no such thing as bad wether, just bad clothing choice ?? and I'm fitting a heated screen so I won't have to worry about the windscreen steaming up, and I'll treat the other windows with de-fog to help stop them fogging up.
Well, I dropped the car off with Sean today. To help get him started we stripped out what he needed gone from the interior (so everything) and the braking system from inside the engine bay (brake servo and and system).
This is how she looked when we left;
He's got her for 2 weeks and the an is;
Full custom cage from front struts to diff carrier.
Strengthened front and rear subframes.
Pedal box and some lines re done.
Heated front screen!
cannot wait to get it back...
Humour - What you're saying shouldn't happen. Once the coolant has been through the heater matrix it goes back to the radiator, not back into the head. I looked through lots of different builds and spoke to as many people as I could and it was between the block off option or the loop way. I spoke to a few of the kumho bmw championship drivers (including one at autosport yesterday) and the ones I have spoke to have looped the system and not had any problems with overheating.
The oil changing, I know the oil could have lasted longer, but the amount of crap that was coming out the first few times after being driven hard, made sense to change. Now that everything is better/cleaner/cooler, I'm going to be changing a lot less now. I was using castrol and now millers, always been 5/40wt. Next change, which will probably be in the middle of the year, I'll go 10/50.
Sebring - being a military person, I've always been taught, there's no such thing as bad wether, just bad clothing choice ?? and I'm fitting a heated screen so I won't have to worry about the windscreen steaming up, and I'll treat the other windows with de-fog to help stop them fogging up.
Well, I dropped the car off with Sean today. To help get him started we stripped out what he needed gone from the interior (so everything) and the braking system from inside the engine bay (brake servo and and system).
This is how she looked when we left;
He's got her for 2 weeks and the an is;
Full custom cage from front struts to diff carrier.
Strengthened front and rear subframes.
Pedal box and some lines re done.
Heated front screen!
cannot wait to get it back...
Edited by brian394 on Thursday 15th January 21:39
brian394 said:
Cheers lads!
Humour - What you're saying shouldn't happen. Once the coolant has been through the heater matrix it goes back to the radiator, not back into the head. I looked through lots of different builds and spoke to as many people as I could and it was between the block off option or the loop way. I spoke to a few of the kumho bmw championship drivers (including one at autosport yesterday) and the ones I have spoke to have looped the system and not had any problems with overheating.
That's cool mate. I wasn't aware that the heater matrix goes back direct to the radiator. Anyway, if you have done your research on the subject and you are happy nothing is overlooked, then happy days Humour - What you're saying shouldn't happen. Once the coolant has been through the heater matrix it goes back to the radiator, not back into the head. I looked through lots of different builds and spoke to as many people as I could and it was between the block off option or the loop way. I spoke to a few of the kumho bmw championship drivers (including one at autosport yesterday) and the ones I have spoke to have looped the system and not had any problems with overheating.
From everything I have read, getting the car with a proper cage fitted will feel like a new more consistent car on the limit.
On the subject of the surplus parts, how do we get in touch to organise something? Also can you give an idea of what "Sean" is charging for the cage install (manufacturing it too?). Is Sean a business that can be contacted for something similar or just a friend?
Cheers, Hum.
Edited by Humour on Thursday 15th January 12:36
brian394 said:
BGarside - the induction kit gives a lovely noise, properly barks at the top of the rev range!
The BBT, there was a definite improvement in how quickly the car revs up. I havn't had it remapped since fitting, so it just has the 'M50 manifold map'. I want to take the car to a proper dyno and have it mapped properly once I've finished all my little bits and bobs.
The X-brace, again i noticed an improvement with the stiffness in the front end. Where it felt before that, especially on bumpy roads, that each side of the front end moved separately, it feels like the front end moves 'as one' now, if that makes sense. Did it make a massive improvement on track? Id say so, but wether or not thats a placebo effect or not is another question...
....
Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like the induction kit is worth it for the noise if nothing else.The BBT, there was a definite improvement in how quickly the car revs up. I havn't had it remapped since fitting, so it just has the 'M50 manifold map'. I want to take the car to a proper dyno and have it mapped properly once I've finished all my little bits and bobs.
The X-brace, again i noticed an improvement with the stiffness in the front end. Where it felt before that, especially on bumpy roads, that each side of the front end moved separately, it feels like the front end moves 'as one' now, if that makes sense. Did it make a massive improvement on track? Id say so, but wether or not thats a placebo effect or not is another question...
....
Edited by brian394 on Friday 9th January 01:22
Not sure if the BBTB would make as much difference on the M50 engine, so maybe I'll hold off on that one.
Great thread. Out of interest, how much weight saving have you achieved so far?
Ben
Humour - Ye, I'm happy. If the kumho guys can get away with it... Majority of things I've done to the car, I've sat up until stupid o'clock in the morning searching and asking to make sure what I was doing was the correct thing.
Regarding the cage, they are always fitted for 2 reasons. 1)saving you're ass in an impact, 2) stiffening the car up more than you'll ever want! I can't wait to go back to the tracks I've already been on and see how quick I can push it now...
As for Sean, his current Facebook page is - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bmw-Dynamics/530063... personal - https://www.facebook.com/sean.chapman.5496?fref=ts... I'm posting pics of his work in this post. His welding skills alone are top notch and how tight he's managed to make the cage in the car is not to be overlooked... This cage, and pedal box fitted, is costing around £1800...
I'll send you a message.
BG - I'm unsure of the m50 TB is bigger than the M52. Obviously if it is, it'll have less of a change than if it's the same. But the noise from the CAI is lovely, especially with the scorpion box...
As for weight, the car comes off the line, with a tank of fuel around 1450kg. When i had it weighed when getting the alignment done originally, it was done at 1240kg (with a full tank). That was still with the OEM passenger seat and ALOT more interior than I have now. I recon it's around the 1100kgish mark as it sits, if not abit lighter. Put it this way, when I fill the tank I can REALLY feel the difference...
Well, while I'm here, I thought I'd give you all an update on how the car is going with Sean.
So, after I helped him strip the car down, he got amongst prepping for the install, deciding how to mount and where to run everything.
Front legs
Rather clean welding...
Mounting box in place in the back
Rear subframe reinforments arrived. Sean had already built me up a front reinforced subframe, which he fitted (never got any pics tho...). Upon removing the front subframe, he did find the beginnings of cracks, so I'm happy he's done that.
Mounts and boxes ready to fit
All done. Happily, the rear wasn't cracked and had no signs of it beginning to go either.
Doors off...
As the tubing arrives.
Main hoop and door
Tight like a tiger...
Top cross and dash bar
Where he's fitting the harness bar for me.
Regarding the cage, they are always fitted for 2 reasons. 1)saving you're ass in an impact, 2) stiffening the car up more than you'll ever want! I can't wait to go back to the tracks I've already been on and see how quick I can push it now...
As for Sean, his current Facebook page is - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bmw-Dynamics/530063... personal - https://www.facebook.com/sean.chapman.5496?fref=ts... I'm posting pics of his work in this post. His welding skills alone are top notch and how tight he's managed to make the cage in the car is not to be overlooked... This cage, and pedal box fitted, is costing around £1800...
I'll send you a message.
BG - I'm unsure of the m50 TB is bigger than the M52. Obviously if it is, it'll have less of a change than if it's the same. But the noise from the CAI is lovely, especially with the scorpion box...
As for weight, the car comes off the line, with a tank of fuel around 1450kg. When i had it weighed when getting the alignment done originally, it was done at 1240kg (with a full tank). That was still with the OEM passenger seat and ALOT more interior than I have now. I recon it's around the 1100kgish mark as it sits, if not abit lighter. Put it this way, when I fill the tank I can REALLY feel the difference...
Well, while I'm here, I thought I'd give you all an update on how the car is going with Sean.
So, after I helped him strip the car down, he got amongst prepping for the install, deciding how to mount and where to run everything.
Front legs
Rather clean welding...
Mounting box in place in the back
Rear subframe reinforments arrived. Sean had already built me up a front reinforced subframe, which he fitted (never got any pics tho...). Upon removing the front subframe, he did find the beginnings of cracks, so I'm happy he's done that.
Mounts and boxes ready to fit
All done. Happily, the rear wasn't cracked and had no signs of it beginning to go either.
Doors off...
As the tubing arrives.
Main hoop and door
Tight like a tiger...
Top cross and dash bar
Where he's fitting the harness bar for me.
Edited by brian394 on Thursday 15th January 22:16
So, a little bit more of Seans work so far.
One thing about me, is I'm in the Army. There was an accident a few years back which left me with a shattered femur. This left my femur 1.5inches shorter than it was (yes, most people have different sized legs, but to suddenly loose it when you're 21...). I went back to afghan in 2012, and with the limp/hips not level, my back gave up and the discs have started going. This has left me with back pain majority of the time. I'm currently waiting on a medical discharge as i can no longer run without the pain becoming unbearable...
With this in mind, and me not even thinking to ask him to do it, Sean has fitted my door bars slightly lower than usual to allow me getting in and out of the car a hell of a lot easier for me!
As Sean said to me "business can be personal".
Some rather neat welding. Sean is waiting on gussets to arrive for the door bars that he's going to weld on aswell.
Dash cut and back in.
Cage dropped back down so he could weld the top after making sure everything fits.
How he's going through the bulkhead and onto the front struts.
How she's looking ATM.
One thing that I've been thinking, is my OWN personal safety. After seeing videos and the fact the FIA are going to make Hans devices mandatory in all sanctioned races, I picked one up at the autosport show last week.
I never bought one of the fancy carbon ones, just the basic one. Safely wise, exactly the same as the ones over a grand, just abit heavier.
I also have a new Schroth Profi-2 6 point harness on the way. My old one will go onto the passenger as this one has thinner straps for the hans device.
Getting excited....
One thing about me, is I'm in the Army. There was an accident a few years back which left me with a shattered femur. This left my femur 1.5inches shorter than it was (yes, most people have different sized legs, but to suddenly loose it when you're 21...). I went back to afghan in 2012, and with the limp/hips not level, my back gave up and the discs have started going. This has left me with back pain majority of the time. I'm currently waiting on a medical discharge as i can no longer run without the pain becoming unbearable...
With this in mind, and me not even thinking to ask him to do it, Sean has fitted my door bars slightly lower than usual to allow me getting in and out of the car a hell of a lot easier for me!
As Sean said to me "business can be personal".
Some rather neat welding. Sean is waiting on gussets to arrive for the door bars that he's going to weld on aswell.
Dash cut and back in.
Cage dropped back down so he could weld the top after making sure everything fits.
How he's going through the bulkhead and onto the front struts.
How she's looking ATM.
One thing that I've been thinking, is my OWN personal safety. After seeing videos and the fact the FIA are going to make Hans devices mandatory in all sanctioned races, I picked one up at the autosport show last week.
I never bought one of the fancy carbon ones, just the basic one. Safely wise, exactly the same as the ones over a grand, just abit heavier.
I also have a new Schroth Profi-2 6 point harness on the way. My old one will go onto the passenger as this one has thinner straps for the hans device.
Getting excited....
Edited by brian394 on Sunday 18th January 22:35
So, as the cage progressed Sean kept sending me pics, teasing me...
He was planning to go to the front and rear diff mounts for the pickup points, but was finding getting to the front tricky and with it being his first full cage, I was happy for him to only do the rears.
Got to love the attention to detail he has gone into for the gusseting, why? because why not...
Car was then pushed round the corner to his local 'painter'.
Sean has used him in the past and he's been painting for years, but he must have been having an off night as the paint job was rather crap! Now, it wasn't an expensive job, but it's not the point. He's missed parts of the cage, painted bits of the shell that were masked off before hand and pritty much covered the entire car in lacquer over spray. Now, it's not the end of the world for me, as looks aren't the most important bit, but still wasn't ideal.
Now that was masked off around the foot plate before painting...
Anyway, the car was picked back up and Sean got amongst re-doing my brake lines and fitting the pedal box.
Ideally, i wanted the pedal box against the transmission tunnel, but that wasn't going to work as the pedal box would have ended up sitting under the steering wheel, which I would have then needed to extend the steering column...
So the pedal box was fitted and the accelerator ended up in pretty much the same place.
My reservoirs were fitted in the same place as the old brake booster to make bleeding access easy.
He ran the rear brake lines along the inside of the car and also the clutch line across the top of the tunnel.
We bled the clutch and brakes with ATE racing fluid and the feel is brilliant! Nice and solid with no air! Getting the brake bias setup is being a pain tho. I've got the rear MC wound pretty much all the way in and the fronts all the way out. But, my rears are still locking just before the fronts (think the rear might be to light...)
And how she looked as we left. Since i've taken my heating and box out, de-misting my window would be a ballache, so i bought a heated screen from http://www.heatedwindscreen.com. Wiring it up is simple, if you order the correct relays. I stupidly ordered 'normally closed', so it would be in constant power, when you need 'normally open', so atm it wasn't compeltey wired in, so a quick coating of anti-fog in the mean time!
There was only a couple small problems to come from all this, is my speedo no-longer works. We have ran a wire from the clocks to the ECU to give the impression that the ABS speed sensor is still there, but still nothing. The next, one of my RTA bolts on my N/S has snapped (looking at it, it's not a new break, so i know Sean didn't do it) and on the O/S someone has previously snapped a bolt, drilled into the snapped bolt and tapped a thread into it.
Next night, I took the manifold off (again) to replace the coolant re-direct pipes i had previously fitted. When i fitted them, they had a slight kink, but the heat as helped and they weren't as kinked now.
I still replaced them as the barb was leaking slightly from the OEM pipe (the left hand side) being slightly to0 big to get a good fitment.
Not the best pic, but it's alot smoother, so shouldn't restrict any water flow and doesn't leak!
At this point, i also removed my CCV. I gave my ICV a quick clean and re routed the hoses for that. The ICV is now on it's own, coming from under the manifold and back onto the throttle body boot. I ran a length of oil hose from the crank case to a catch can fitted on the old charcoal canister mount. The CCV ran a closed system, so the old, hot air from the CC went back into the air intake and the oil back into the dipstick.
That no-longer happens, the catch can, does as it says, and catches the oil (although I need to add some filter on the inside to help catch more oil) and the air vents to atmosphere. I also sealed off the dipstick inlet.
After fitting everything back on, i realised the filter on top was in the way of the MAF, so it was promptly cut off. I do need to run a length of piping under the car as the all the fumes are being pushed into the cab while driving.
I then took her in for her MOT.
Now, the MOTer was on the friendly side, apart from one bolt being broken on the RTA, he couldn't pick anything up. Everything works, no rust holes etc etc... Every other comment was along the lines of 'wow, this has had so much work done to it', especially when he was under the car doing his checks. Needless to say, it passed with no advisories.
She's booked in for this week to Avia Autos -https://www.facebook.com/aviaautos?ref=ts&fref=ts - to have the bolts properly extracted and he's going to fit my new RTA bushes while he's there, and full wheel alignment and corner weighting.
Next track day should be the 12th of Feb at Silverstone and the 14th of Feb at Oulton Park....
And a few pics outside to show the cage and cars current state better.
He was planning to go to the front and rear diff mounts for the pickup points, but was finding getting to the front tricky and with it being his first full cage, I was happy for him to only do the rears.
Got to love the attention to detail he has gone into for the gusseting, why? because why not...
Car was then pushed round the corner to his local 'painter'.
Sean has used him in the past and he's been painting for years, but he must have been having an off night as the paint job was rather crap! Now, it wasn't an expensive job, but it's not the point. He's missed parts of the cage, painted bits of the shell that were masked off before hand and pritty much covered the entire car in lacquer over spray. Now, it's not the end of the world for me, as looks aren't the most important bit, but still wasn't ideal.
Now that was masked off around the foot plate before painting...
Anyway, the car was picked back up and Sean got amongst re-doing my brake lines and fitting the pedal box.
Ideally, i wanted the pedal box against the transmission tunnel, but that wasn't going to work as the pedal box would have ended up sitting under the steering wheel, which I would have then needed to extend the steering column...
So the pedal box was fitted and the accelerator ended up in pretty much the same place.
My reservoirs were fitted in the same place as the old brake booster to make bleeding access easy.
He ran the rear brake lines along the inside of the car and also the clutch line across the top of the tunnel.
We bled the clutch and brakes with ATE racing fluid and the feel is brilliant! Nice and solid with no air! Getting the brake bias setup is being a pain tho. I've got the rear MC wound pretty much all the way in and the fronts all the way out. But, my rears are still locking just before the fronts (think the rear might be to light...)
And how she looked as we left. Since i've taken my heating and box out, de-misting my window would be a ballache, so i bought a heated screen from http://www.heatedwindscreen.com. Wiring it up is simple, if you order the correct relays. I stupidly ordered 'normally closed', so it would be in constant power, when you need 'normally open', so atm it wasn't compeltey wired in, so a quick coating of anti-fog in the mean time!
There was only a couple small problems to come from all this, is my speedo no-longer works. We have ran a wire from the clocks to the ECU to give the impression that the ABS speed sensor is still there, but still nothing. The next, one of my RTA bolts on my N/S has snapped (looking at it, it's not a new break, so i know Sean didn't do it) and on the O/S someone has previously snapped a bolt, drilled into the snapped bolt and tapped a thread into it.
Next night, I took the manifold off (again) to replace the coolant re-direct pipes i had previously fitted. When i fitted them, they had a slight kink, but the heat as helped and they weren't as kinked now.
I still replaced them as the barb was leaking slightly from the OEM pipe (the left hand side) being slightly to0 big to get a good fitment.
Not the best pic, but it's alot smoother, so shouldn't restrict any water flow and doesn't leak!
At this point, i also removed my CCV. I gave my ICV a quick clean and re routed the hoses for that. The ICV is now on it's own, coming from under the manifold and back onto the throttle body boot. I ran a length of oil hose from the crank case to a catch can fitted on the old charcoal canister mount. The CCV ran a closed system, so the old, hot air from the CC went back into the air intake and the oil back into the dipstick.
That no-longer happens, the catch can, does as it says, and catches the oil (although I need to add some filter on the inside to help catch more oil) and the air vents to atmosphere. I also sealed off the dipstick inlet.
After fitting everything back on, i realised the filter on top was in the way of the MAF, so it was promptly cut off. I do need to run a length of piping under the car as the all the fumes are being pushed into the cab while driving.
I then took her in for her MOT.
Now, the MOTer was on the friendly side, apart from one bolt being broken on the RTA, he couldn't pick anything up. Everything works, no rust holes etc etc... Every other comment was along the lines of 'wow, this has had so much work done to it', especially when he was under the car doing his checks. Needless to say, it passed with no advisories.
She's booked in for this week to Avia Autos -https://www.facebook.com/aviaautos?ref=ts&fref=ts - to have the bolts properly extracted and he's going to fit my new RTA bushes while he's there, and full wheel alignment and corner weighting.
Next track day should be the 12th of Feb at Silverstone and the 14th of Feb at Oulton Park....
And a few pics outside to show the cage and cars current state better.
Edited by brian394 on Sunday 1st February 19:00
Edited by brian394 on Monday 2nd February 10:41
Lots of progress since the last update. The pedal box looks great, the OEM equipment isn't really good enough for consistency especially in its usual very used state.
It will be interesting to hear how you get on with no heating on a winter track day next week.
By the way, the cage is killer. Props to the builder. Now I want one too
It will be interesting to hear how you get on with no heating on a winter track day next week.
By the way, the cage is killer. Props to the builder. Now I want one too
Humour - The pedal box is different, but i've quickly adapted to it. The having no ABS or brake booster was 'different' but again, I'm used to it because I still use it as a daily (I know...). The same goes for the no heating thing. I've got the heated windscreen, so i don't have to worry about that misting up and if i'm cold, i just put on another layer!.
Also, got this little lot waiting for you now. Will need to arrange a weekend soon for you to come and get it all!
So, the 1st thing I did this week was drop the car of at Avia to have the RTA bolts sorted and bushes replaced. Immediately, they decided it would be easier to completely cut the top hats out and weld in a new set.
Speaking to the lad who owned the car before me, he had taken it to Imperial Tyres in Swindon for tyres and alignment. After getting it back, he heard a knocking, had a look and noticed a snapped bolt on the O/S RTA. He took it back and told them to fix it. What he didn't know, was they had snapped a bolt on the O/S and the N/S. Instead of extracting the broken bolts, they drilled into the snapped bolts and tapped a thread. 'Professional'.
Since then, the N/S bolt had snapped off and it's obvious why, it wasn't straight in the slightest!
So, Avia machined up new topmast and welded them in. They also fitted my black RTA bushes and poly bushes onto the hub. The car also had full wheel alignment again and feels so good now.
Also had a nice parcel containing Polycarb windows arrive from http://www.templarperformance.co.uk and bought window struts from http://www.amspeed.co.uk.
So, I got into the door, cut out the window motors and crash bars, removed the glass and slid the Poly window in. I drilled holes in the same mounting points in the same place that the glass has and fitted it back onto the old rail. I drilled a hole in the rail and fitted a nut and bolt to stop the window dropping down. Using the window struts is enough to keep the window in place and also pull them against the seal, so they don't flap around.
I did tidy the metal up, then re-fitted my door cards along with the door handles.
pic -
Each window weighs less than half of the original glass ones (as far as i can workout by holding them, didn't have a scale to hand). I didn't do the rear as I didn't have any wire or the tools to cut the bond, but I've found someone in Bridgend who'll do it cheap for me.
I then moved onto the brakes. I was finding my rear end locking up, so I bought a bigger bore'd master cylinder to take some pressure off. This was fitted and the rear brakes bled.
While I was doing the rears, I finally fitted my pagid RS29s (fitted the fronts aswell). I also cut the dust shields off the rear brakes to help aid cooling.
Next on the list was finally getting my alloy thermostat housing fitted. I've been running the plastic one and although it isn't leaking, I know it's a known weakspot.
So the coolant was drained.
New and old thermostat housings.
I've used around 75% coolant and 25% water, instead of the usual 50/50 to try help pull some heat away when on track. But I still used BMWs own coolant.
Since removing the heating, i've been meaning to cut the wiring back. What started off as a 'i'll just tidy the wiring up', turned into a 'how much do i actually need'.
This is how much wiring I had as i started (this is the 4th time i've cut the wiring back).
Another few KGs of weight lost.
I also, gained some confidence and got amongst the fuse box, removing relays and wiring from inside the box that I no longer need. I'm sure i can remove a few more, which i will at some point.
The 2 relays outside of the box (bottom of the pic) are for the windscreen.
And how it looks under the glove box.
The white 'module' is for the window washers and i still need to figure out what else is connected to the relay before removing it.
Because my rear window was bonded, as i said before, I opted to not remove it myself. Luckily, there's a company nearby in bridgend who were willing to do it for £40 cash...
So early monday morning, I headed over. Watching a fully grown welsh man squeeze into the back of my car was amusing, but once in, he had the screen out in less than 5mins!
The new screen was then bonded in and left to set.
I then removed this 'spring', which was my steering lock. I know its a very very very small chance of happening, but at least this elimtates the chance of my steering lock kicking in. Plus, I want to get rid of the ignition barrel when I move my fuse box and re-do my wiring next month, so I won't need the key at all.
Finally got round to re-routing the catch can vent hose. Since I had it venting into the engine bay, all the fumes were being pushed into the car and making for a sometimes unpleasant ride. I bought an oil hose and routed it under the car. simple.
Also, since I use a bluetooth speaker for when I'm driving, i bought/made and phone mount to hold the phone during driving, and can also be used for 'lap times' when needed.
I copied Tommos idea, with an exhaust hanger, piece of alloy and an iPhone holder.
Perfectly placed if I need to see, but also in line to see on my gopro. Even if its just showing my speed, I can tell if I'm going too fast/slow.
Then just finished giving her a quick wash before heading to Silverstone in the morning!
Also, got this little lot waiting for you now. Will need to arrange a weekend soon for you to come and get it all!
So, the 1st thing I did this week was drop the car of at Avia to have the RTA bolts sorted and bushes replaced. Immediately, they decided it would be easier to completely cut the top hats out and weld in a new set.
Speaking to the lad who owned the car before me, he had taken it to Imperial Tyres in Swindon for tyres and alignment. After getting it back, he heard a knocking, had a look and noticed a snapped bolt on the O/S RTA. He took it back and told them to fix it. What he didn't know, was they had snapped a bolt on the O/S and the N/S. Instead of extracting the broken bolts, they drilled into the snapped bolts and tapped a thread. 'Professional'.
Since then, the N/S bolt had snapped off and it's obvious why, it wasn't straight in the slightest!
So, Avia machined up new topmast and welded them in. They also fitted my black RTA bushes and poly bushes onto the hub. The car also had full wheel alignment again and feels so good now.
Also had a nice parcel containing Polycarb windows arrive from http://www.templarperformance.co.uk and bought window struts from http://www.amspeed.co.uk.
So, I got into the door, cut out the window motors and crash bars, removed the glass and slid the Poly window in. I drilled holes in the same mounting points in the same place that the glass has and fitted it back onto the old rail. I drilled a hole in the rail and fitted a nut and bolt to stop the window dropping down. Using the window struts is enough to keep the window in place and also pull them against the seal, so they don't flap around.
I did tidy the metal up, then re-fitted my door cards along with the door handles.
pic -
- racecar
Each window weighs less than half of the original glass ones (as far as i can workout by holding them, didn't have a scale to hand). I didn't do the rear as I didn't have any wire or the tools to cut the bond, but I've found someone in Bridgend who'll do it cheap for me.
I then moved onto the brakes. I was finding my rear end locking up, so I bought a bigger bore'd master cylinder to take some pressure off. This was fitted and the rear brakes bled.
While I was doing the rears, I finally fitted my pagid RS29s (fitted the fronts aswell). I also cut the dust shields off the rear brakes to help aid cooling.
Next on the list was finally getting my alloy thermostat housing fitted. I've been running the plastic one and although it isn't leaking, I know it's a known weakspot.
So the coolant was drained.
New and old thermostat housings.
I've used around 75% coolant and 25% water, instead of the usual 50/50 to try help pull some heat away when on track. But I still used BMWs own coolant.
Since removing the heating, i've been meaning to cut the wiring back. What started off as a 'i'll just tidy the wiring up', turned into a 'how much do i actually need'.
This is how much wiring I had as i started (this is the 4th time i've cut the wiring back).
Another few KGs of weight lost.
I also, gained some confidence and got amongst the fuse box, removing relays and wiring from inside the box that I no longer need. I'm sure i can remove a few more, which i will at some point.
The 2 relays outside of the box (bottom of the pic) are for the windscreen.
And how it looks under the glove box.
The white 'module' is for the window washers and i still need to figure out what else is connected to the relay before removing it.
Because my rear window was bonded, as i said before, I opted to not remove it myself. Luckily, there's a company nearby in bridgend who were willing to do it for £40 cash...
So early monday morning, I headed over. Watching a fully grown welsh man squeeze into the back of my car was amusing, but once in, he had the screen out in less than 5mins!
The new screen was then bonded in and left to set.
I then removed this 'spring', which was my steering lock. I know its a very very very small chance of happening, but at least this elimtates the chance of my steering lock kicking in. Plus, I want to get rid of the ignition barrel when I move my fuse box and re-do my wiring next month, so I won't need the key at all.
Finally got round to re-routing the catch can vent hose. Since I had it venting into the engine bay, all the fumes were being pushed into the car and making for a sometimes unpleasant ride. I bought an oil hose and routed it under the car. simple.
Also, since I use a bluetooth speaker for when I'm driving, i bought/made and phone mount to hold the phone during driving, and can also be used for 'lap times' when needed.
I copied Tommos idea, with an exhaust hanger, piece of alloy and an iPhone holder.
Perfectly placed if I need to see, but also in line to see on my gopro. Even if its just showing my speed, I can tell if I'm going too fast/slow.
Then just finished giving her a quick wash before heading to Silverstone in the morning!
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