Giblets Sheddy MK1 Eunos
Discussion
I've seen worse!
as prev mentioned the Auto lumps are preferred for turbo charging iirc they run lower compression so can handle a little more boost.
Check the roof is good and sills behind the skirts as they're notorious for perforating! If they're solid you should have a decent motor, if not then you'll get the £500 back parting it out if the engine / box wheels are solid.
Give it a proper clean, sell the wheels on ebay as those ones wil llikely folow every bump in the road and use cash to buy some original wheels a new front bumper. Sure someone would buy that horrid front bumper and sideskirts although they're likely bonded on.
its def not beyong hope
as prev mentioned the Auto lumps are preferred for turbo charging iirc they run lower compression so can handle a little more boost.
Check the roof is good and sills behind the skirts as they're notorious for perforating! If they're solid you should have a decent motor, if not then you'll get the £500 back parting it out if the engine / box wheels are solid.
Give it a proper clean, sell the wheels on ebay as those ones wil llikely folow every bump in the road and use cash to buy some original wheels a new front bumper. Sure someone would buy that horrid front bumper and sideskirts although they're likely bonded on.
its def not beyong hope
I'm liking the varied responses. I guess the state of the sills will be the deciding factor in what I end up doing with it. As much as I love the idea of just whacking a turbo kit on it they don't seem to be cheap new. Anyone know what a second hand kit goes for?
I don't think the skirts are bonded on but I guess I'll find out this weekend. The front bumper will be replaced for a stock one. The alloys are in alright condition so I guess they are the most valuable part of the car as suggested. I need to dispose of the knife asap, don't like the idea of having that sat in the boot especially as the boot lock is so mullered that it can be opened with any key or pointy object!
I don't think the skirts are bonded on but I guess I'll find out this weekend. The front bumper will be replaced for a stock one. The alloys are in alright condition so I guess they are the most valuable part of the car as suggested. I need to dispose of the knife asap, don't like the idea of having that sat in the boot especially as the boot lock is so mullered that it can be opened with any key or pointy object!
giblet said:
As much as I love the idea of just whacking a turbo kit on it they don't seem to be cheap new. Anyone know what a second hand kit goes for?
they're such a strong engine, there not a lot needed to home brew it.Friend of mine welded up his own manifold and downpipe from some tubular (He worked at a gas fitters) and put a used T25 on it, ran 6/7 psi through a small intercooler, took it to rolling road to get a fuel pressure regulator setup and made ~160bhp if i remember correctly. Never had any issues with it.
it can be done very cheaply!
andburg said:
they're such a strong engine, there not a lot needed to home brew it.
Friend of mine welded up his own manifold and downpipe from some tubular (He worked at a gas fitters) and put a used T25 on it, ran 6/7 psi through a small intercooler, took it to rolling road to get a fuel pressure regulator setup and made ~160bhp if i remember correctly. Never had any issues with it.
it can be done very cheaply!
160 at the wheels? I've spotted a supercharged auto over on mx5nutz so the box appears to be able to take the abuse. I figured I would need some sort of engine management (megasquirt) as well as manifold, turbo, ic etc.Friend of mine welded up his own manifold and downpipe from some tubular (He worked at a gas fitters) and put a used T25 on it, ran 6/7 psi through a small intercooler, took it to rolling road to get a fuel pressure regulator setup and made ~160bhp if i remember correctly. Never had any issues with it.
it can be done very cheaply!
andburg said:
Give it a proper clean, sell the wheels on ebay as those ones wil llikely folow every bump in the road and use cash to buy some original wheels a new front bumper.
Wheels are origional, well they're OEM from the MK2 10AE. They're worth more than the car in all likelihood. they won't cause tramlining etc as the offsets will all be correct.giblet said:
160 at the wheels? I've spotted a supercharged auto over on mx5nutz so the box appears to be able to take the abuse. I figured I would need some sort of engine management (megasquirt) as well as manifold, turbo, ic etc.
no it was at the fly on a manual.think a basic kit with fmic and simple management generally sees 180-190bhp, the torque is an issue on the standard 1.6 diff at this point but the 1.8 diff / subrame and shafts bot straight in. Nutz is ya place for an FI'd Mx5!
Found the thread! As I posted in Yorkshire section, I'm local and know these inside out so happy to meet up for a chat! Or if you want to bob over and have a nose round a fast one.
It doesn't look like a lost cause yet! A close friend paid $430 for his last year and it looked similarly sheddy, but a lot of work and a bit od cash now has it looking reasonable and driving infinitely better.
Forget turbocharging (easy for me to say), get it driving and handling right first.
It doesn't look like a lost cause yet! A close friend paid $430 for his last year and it looked similarly sheddy, but a lot of work and a bit od cash now has it looking reasonable and driving infinitely better.
Forget turbocharging (easy for me to say), get it driving and handling right first.
snotrag said:
Found the thread! As I posted in Yorkshire section, I'm local and know these inside out so happy to meet up for a chat! Or if you want to bob over and have a nose round a fast one.
It doesn't look like a lost cause yet! A close friend paid $430 for his last year and it looked similarly sheddy, but a lot of work and a bit od cash now has it looking reasonable and driving infinitely better.
Forget turbocharging (easy for me to say), get it driving and handling right first.
Cheers, I'll have to give you a shout once I've had a peek behind the skirts It doesn't look like a lost cause yet! A close friend paid $430 for his last year and it looked similarly sheddy, but a lot of work and a bit od cash now has it looking reasonable and driving infinitely better.
Forget turbocharging (easy for me to say), get it driving and handling right first.
I should have the time and hopefully the space to work on it soon, since it's a second car it can be a slow project I guess. I agree on getting it driving and handling right, gearbox needs a fluid change and it could do with a service. Thankfully the plugs are significantly easier to replace than the ones in the VR4.
giblet said:
Underside seems to be in alright condition. The front bumper appears to be screwed over the top of the stock one and annoyingly the skirts have been bonded to both the front and rear wings so I can't get behind them. I could always bust out the angle grinder?
Take the bumper off and fill hopefully not too bad a job but removing bonded sideskirts....google reveals several methods for removing bonded skirts, a hot knife and then a paint scraper seems to be the winner but its seems as risky as it sounds!
Bad timing really as a mater has just scrapped a white mk1, which he was using as a parts donor for his £400 White Mk1.
Suggest you need to get it up on stands first, and inspect the arches and crucially the inner sill area through the inspection holes and from below. Then take a gamble on whether to remove the side skirts or not.
A positive - if you make a dogs dinner of it AND if there is actual solid-ish steel behind them, then the lower half of the car is painted in textured stonechip, which is not too hard to repair with rattle cans.
For the front bumper I would suggest just bin it/sell it and get a white bumper from a breaker yard.
Suggest you need to get it up on stands first, and inspect the arches and crucially the inner sill area through the inspection holes and from below. Then take a gamble on whether to remove the side skirts or not.
A positive - if you make a dogs dinner of it AND if there is actual solid-ish steel behind them, then the lower half of the car is painted in textured stonechip, which is not too hard to repair with rattle cans.
For the front bumper I would suggest just bin it/sell it and get a white bumper from a breaker yard.
Some of the screws holding on the front bumper are rounded off so I'll have to borrow a dremel to get them off. Arches seemed to have a bit of crud them but no real rust that I could see. I need to wet vac the interior first as the smell is too much now for me to handle. Might need some pointers from you in person, I'll drop you a PM once I've tidied the interior up a tad.
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