A bargain or an MX-5 shaped money pit?
Discussion
I'd see if you can find out what manifold/kit was used then find another.
Or get one made to fit... Based on your profile somebody like http://torquetechnique.co.uk/ might be able to tell you the cost of making one up.
Or get one made to fit... Based on your profile somebody like http://torquetechnique.co.uk/ might be able to tell you the cost of making one up.
Cfnteabag said:
The main thing I am worried about is having a new one made up then the same thing happening!
Ah but that's a cast item. Some of which were notoriously S&£t for doing this (Greddy ones I seem to recall). Others were better.One made up would be a Stainless item which is not so brittle.
Edit: Actually it seems like 6 of one and half a dozon of the other..: Here's a whole thread from the US on the topic: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=376824
Edit2: These guys might be able to supply a begi manifold: http://www.everythingmx5.com/begi.php
Edited by Munter on Sunday 8th March 17:09
Cfnteabag said:
The main thing I am worried about is having a new one made up then the same thing happening!
Here's the thread you want. http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...Cfnteabag said:
As this appears to be a solid shell its staying in this one!
After having the battery on charge overnight I had a go at getting it started today.
I removed the plugs and gave them a clean up and checked for a spark, which was present if a little weak, put in a can full of the finest super unleaded and dropped a bit of oil into the turbo feed to save breaking it!
The first big disappointment of the project was that it didn't start
I have started a thread in the mx5 section asking for help!
It has no immobiliser light on the dash when you first turn on the ignition but a couple of times it has come on after cranking when the battery has got a bit tired and other random dash things have happened!
I am hoping it is a simple fault but I am struggling with what to check next, I am more used to working on land rovers with much simpler electrics!
On a brighter note the wheels are Rota's and the coilovers are a decent brand, but I cant remember what!
After having the battery on charge overnight I had a go at getting it started today.
I removed the plugs and gave them a clean up and checked for a spark, which was present if a little weak, put in a can full of the finest super unleaded and dropped a bit of oil into the turbo feed to save breaking it!
The first big disappointment of the project was that it didn't start
I have started a thread in the mx5 section asking for help!
It has no immobiliser light on the dash when you first turn on the ignition but a couple of times it has come on after cranking when the battery has got a bit tired and other random dash things have happened!
I am hoping it is a simple fault but I am struggling with what to check next, I am more used to working on land rovers with much simpler electrics!
On a brighter note the wheels are Rota's and the coilovers are a decent brand, but I cant remember what!
Cfnteabag said:
Im hoping that will be the case I'm just at a loss as to why the immobiliser light isnt coming on at all, is there a way of checking if the factory immobiliser has been removed?
Sorry to hear that starting is not happenning. To my mind the days of trying to second guess electrical faults without a facility to read the electrics on these machines and to be able to instantly check the fault codes, or error code functions, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and so on went some while go. That is why I retain one or two garage clients in my retirement because I can pretty well get such faultsj sorted out without major bills. I have a number of kit cars and even with these I find the electronics guys useful. I would certainly agree that a new battery is worth a try and the obvious old tests like is there a decent spark occurring? At more or less the right time in the cylinders and has the ols petrol in the car, which has been standing for years, been replaced? Particularly if there is water in the boot, contaminated? Worth changing that just to be sure IMO. Hope this proves to be the bargin it certainy appears to be. Non functioning immobiliser is another obvious check point but I really do think that modern cars are best analysed with the right equipment. Best of luck in the quest! Easy start might just fire the engine but with a Turbo outfit I would think getting an exerpts view might be the safest way forward.
There are various ways to repair that manifold as others have said you should be able to get a replacement even for a turbo manifold without too much triouble. Good to hear it has started: cars left outside never stand well especially softtops and such problems are very common. I would carefully examine the entire car and try to deal with each problem as they are identified. That is a damned good buy and you should get years of happy motoring once these teething problems that all cars which have been standing suffer over time, have been resolved, which they will be.
This car looks do right to me I would take the approach that it will become your main driver and enjoy every minute of your experience in the car. I had a new Lotus Super Seven Twin Cam, back in 1963, which i built myself, when I was 17 and to this day I have never enjoyed any car as much. It was hopelessly unweather proof, very difficult to egress and get into, went like a Rocket , stuck to the Road like glue and was a magnet for girls. Best car I have ever had to this day. I have never forgotten that car and bearing in mind that Mini skirts and Maxi coats were all the rage you can inmagin the fun I had helping girls in and out of that car at 17 years of age. It was heaven. The memories still linger.
Buying cars is necessarily a risky process. You have done exceptionally well with that buy. Enjoy every moment I wsh you well.
This car looks do right to me I would take the approach that it will become your main driver and enjoy every minute of your experience in the car. I had a new Lotus Super Seven Twin Cam, back in 1963, which i built myself, when I was 17 and to this day I have never enjoyed any car as much. It was hopelessly unweather proof, very difficult to egress and get into, went like a Rocket , stuck to the Road like glue and was a magnet for girls. Best car I have ever had to this day. I have never forgotten that car and bearing in mind that Mini skirts and Maxi coats were all the rage you can inmagin the fun I had helping girls in and out of that car at 17 years of age. It was heaven. The memories still linger.
Buying cars is necessarily a risky process. You have done exceptionally well with that buy. Enjoy every moment I wsh you well.
Cfnteabag said:
Assuming that the damage was done while trying to start it, does anyone know what would cause it?
The cracks on the manifold didn't happen from trying to start it. Cast iron manifolds do crack over time, from the quick expansion and decrease due to the heat applied, from the weight of the turbocharger hanging from it and the various vibrations. I think it would be fairly easy to find a stainless steel one new or source a second hand at a reasonable price, if you know the type of the turbo.The manifold hasnt cracked the instant you started the car.
In fact, its probably the reason the car got laid up.
Cast manifolds can, and do, work fine for many people if done right.
Greddy, for instance, requires relief cuts in the flange, this change was added to later production models.
There are many, manby variables with the car to get it running right. As you dont seem that familiar with MX5s, have you considered returning it to standard?
What engine management is it running? You mention Emananage? You need to know how this is setup too.
I highly suggest you need to either
A) return the car the standard for now
or
B) Fully, and correctly identify all the modifications that have been made to the car (to do this you really need to be familiar with the standard car).
I have so many things to suggest to help, it will be unreadable. Whereabouts in the country are you?
In fact, its probably the reason the car got laid up.
Cast manifolds can, and do, work fine for many people if done right.
Greddy, for instance, requires relief cuts in the flange, this change was added to later production models.
There are many, manby variables with the car to get it running right. As you dont seem that familiar with MX5s, have you considered returning it to standard?
What engine management is it running? You mention Emananage? You need to know how this is setup too.
I highly suggest you need to either
A) return the car the standard for now
or
B) Fully, and correctly identify all the modifications that have been made to the car (to do this you really need to be familiar with the standard car).
I have so many things to suggest to help, it will be unreadable. Whereabouts in the country are you?
Its doubtful that this was caused by crankingby you. Probably a poor manifold, caused by the heat of running at full chat over a period of time and help elong big sitting outside in the cold, and freezing over winter for 2 years. Its common and a lot of owners ted to put relief cuts into key areas to allow for expansion.
I'd get a tubular manifold made up fairly cheaply, guy i knew worked as a gas fitted and made his own up for pennies, used the existing manifold as a template to cut some flanges and used preshaped bends welded together.
I'd get a tubular manifold made up fairly cheaply, guy i knew worked as a gas fitted and made his own up for pennies, used the existing manifold as a template to cut some flanges and used preshaped bends welded together.
snotrag said:
The manifold hasnt cracked the instant you started the car.
In fact, its probably the reason the car got laid up.
Cast manifolds can, and do, work fine for many people if done right.
Greddy, for instance, requires relief cuts in the flange, this change was added to later production models.
There are many, manby variables with the car to get it running right. As you dont seem that familiar with MX5s, have you considered returning it to standard?
What engine management is it running? You mention Emananage? You need to know how this is setup too.
I highly suggest you need to either
A) return the car the standard for now
or
B) Fully, and correctly identify all the modifications that have been made to the car (to do this you really need to be familiar with the standard car).
I have so many things to suggest to help, it will be unreadable. Whereabouts in the country are you?
Good advice. Given the general condition of the car and the unusual specification I would very much recommend refurbishing the car and then enjoying this car for some years. Best of luck to the OP but specialist engine management systems and similar specialist works require technically knowledgeable individuals to ensure correct results. As I remarked earlier on here the days of guesswork in repairing modern electrics have long gone. In fact, its probably the reason the car got laid up.
Cast manifolds can, and do, work fine for many people if done right.
Greddy, for instance, requires relief cuts in the flange, this change was added to later production models.
There are many, manby variables with the car to get it running right. As you dont seem that familiar with MX5s, have you considered returning it to standard?
What engine management is it running? You mention Emananage? You need to know how this is setup too.
I highly suggest you need to either
A) return the car the standard for now
or
B) Fully, and correctly identify all the modifications that have been made to the car (to do this you really need to be familiar with the standard car).
I have so many things to suggest to help, it will be unreadable. Whereabouts in the country are you?
That manifold looks like a typical 'eBay' manifold. It's most certainly not cast, (just rusty), you can see the runners welds to the flange. It's made of paper thin, terrible quality stainless
Basically they're not much use other than as a paperweight. After a heat cycle or two they crack and blow. They're made with very thin stainless steel and are pretty much worthless, a complete waste of time.
Assuming that you want to keep the turbo kit then the previous advise of contacting Sturvo is good advice.
Chances are that the downpipe will also need replacing though.
Cost will be more than 'a couple of hundred' but it will also be significantly less than going to FlynMiata or BEGi for a manifold and downpipe combination.
Basically they're not much use other than as a paperweight. After a heat cycle or two they crack and blow. They're made with very thin stainless steel and are pretty much worthless, a complete waste of time.
Assuming that you want to keep the turbo kit then the previous advise of contacting Sturvo is good advice.
Chances are that the downpipe will also need replacing though.
Cost will be more than 'a couple of hundred' but it will also be significantly less than going to FlynMiata or BEGi for a manifold and downpipe combination.
Edited by Richyvrlimited on Monday 9th March 14:46
It is running a Greddy E manage piggy backing on the standard ecu. I have the control disc with it and it will connect to my laptop and gove signals that make me confident it is working correctly.
I also dipped the tank today and there is far more in there than I was expecting and as it has sat there for 3 years I doubt that fuel is in the best condition so I will drain that and have enough to run my lawnmower for years!
I am keen to keep the turbo if possible, it was the main reason I went for it rather than price! I am thinking about going back to n/a in the short term and getting a better quality manifold later on. I am on a fairly tight budget at the moment.
I am an experienced mechanic with understanding of engine principles and tuning its just computers I'm not that good with!
I am in Emsworth in hampshire, I need to update my profile!
I also dipped the tank today and there is far more in there than I was expecting and as it has sat there for 3 years I doubt that fuel is in the best condition so I will drain that and have enough to run my lawnmower for years!
I am keen to keep the turbo if possible, it was the main reason I went for it rather than price! I am thinking about going back to n/a in the short term and getting a better quality manifold later on. I am on a fairly tight budget at the moment.
I am an experienced mechanic with understanding of engine principles and tuning its just computers I'm not that good with!
I am in Emsworth in hampshire, I need to update my profile!
Munter said:
Will buying and fitting all the bits to go NA not be just as much cost and pain as finding a turbo manifold?
Looking for savings on this sort of car seems a shame and I agree could easily be a false economy. However the OP has stated a very limited budget is available. I am inclined to agree but the OP has the financial conundrum. Best of luck to the OP I do hope whatever he decides works out for him. That is the best buy I have seen for some years. Outstanding and very probably unrepeatable.Cfnteabag said:
It is running a Greddy E manage piggy backing on the standard ecu. I have the control disc with it and it will connect to my laptop and gove signals that make me confident it is working correctly.
Don't be tempted to stick a standard USB cable into your eManage, you'll blow it!Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff