V5 Impreza Type R and the journey
Discussion
elgassi said:
Hi FB, fancy meeting you here lol
so many P1's under the prodrive sign, but yes I know this little beauty
APH
get yourself onto p1oc.co.uk great site for all scoobs and P1's of course
thanks Elgassi, will do !!so many P1's under the prodrive sign, but yes I know this little beauty
APH
get yourself onto p1oc.co.uk great site for all scoobs and P1's of course
FBP1 said:
What has it cost - more than I care to remember, but then I've owned it from new and I'm an inveterate fiddler who has changed many perfectly good parts many times for no reason other than it would be fun as you would see in the thread which details the whole history of the car in its many iterations.
If you have a spec in mind I can probably give you a good idea.
Elgassi - yep fancy meeting you here
. The prodrive sign and factory is no more of course.
thanks FB, will sign up & have a read over the weekend, and will ask my questions once i am more ' educated', so again thanks !If you have a spec in mind I can probably give you a good idea.
Elgassi - yep fancy meeting you here
. The prodrive sign and factory is no more of course.tonyb1968 said:
Hi OP
Use to have a MY99 v5 type R myself (along with a few new age JDM's), your car is a single scroll, vf28 turbocharger (twin scroll didnt come in till the MY03 models but those had a semi closed deck block), the V5 you have has an open deck block.
RESPONCE : need to be more careful what i take as 'gospel' from my random reading, i stand corrected and appreciated the knowledge
Start with the issues these suffer from.
Rust, rear arches.
You need to get this sorted asap, expect to pay over 500 quid to get it done properly as seeing the rust on the arch is only half the story, they have a double skin on the rear quarters, when you see the rust coming through its already eaten away half of the inside and no doubt needs a good 3 inches of repair inside that has already rotted, not the end of the world but painful.
MAF sensors, if you still have one, buy a new one, known issue on the MY99/00 cars, they also hate oiled filters and induction kits, biggest killer of these engines along with low quality fuel.
You can also get rust around the front screen, its a screen out job unfortunately and the glass being a different shade than UK cars...
RESPONCE : will check the windscreen when i get home, anywhere in particular to look at ?
and yes, the arches will be sorted by the end of the year, and i am expecting to see a large bill for it, considering arch spats maybe, any advise on these ?, will get a new MAF as recommended, no induction kit going on / on car, and car is run ONLY on SHELL V-POWER (this is also what it has been mapped for)
Cambelts/idlers.
Needs doing every 3 years on an MY99 (though not the idler but at the age this car is, get it sorted), if you have not had the belt changed then do it, its always best to know when YOU had it done.
RESPONCE : yes these are over due, they were last changed 5 years ago!! (although less than 30k ago)but as you said more age than mileage, are these easy to DIY ? or if not rough idea of cost ?
Servicing.
Every 6 months or 7.5k miles, most will do it once a year if its a low mileage car, no issues with doing so, but diffs and gearboxes need doing more regulary (2 years), adds to the cost (as do spark plugs every 2 years), really not the cheapest car to maintain and I ran 2 of them at the same time lol.
RESPONCE : had a service in prep for my ownership, although dont believe diff & gearbox oil was changed, want to DIY all of this in future, any recommendations to what OIL / SPARKS to use etc ?
That alarm system... bin it, get something decent installed and add a disklok, you wouldnt believe how easy these cars are to get into without damaging the locks
RESPONCE : any recommendations for a better alarm system ? and yes steering lock is on my shopping list, haven't seen a disklok before but they look ace, will invest ! but yes i have been shown the window / coat hanger trick
DCCD.
Has anyone shown or told you how to test it to see if its ok? also what settings to run it on?
RESPONCE : no, not as of yet, i understand 'how they work' to an extend, please enlighten me ?
ATM : in the wet, all the way back so green light is lit, in the dry move through to the organe sections, i can feel the steering getting 'more direect/ more RWD feeling' if that means anything ?
Fast rack steering.
Unfortunately the type R in V5 format they have the fast rack which lacks a bit in feel over the quick rack, so just dont drive a type RA
RESPONCE : i believe these can be swapped out, can they not ? although maybe a little hard to find
Rear washer.
These can die with old age, needs a replacement pump.
RESPONCE : yep, mine must be broken then, the wiper moves, but no spray, not on my priority list but will look into this ! thanks for the advise
Fuel leaks and coolant leaks.
Quite common on older cars, the pipes become brittle and they leak on the near side bulkhead going into the engine (fuel), if you smell fuel then its normally this, would suggest getting it sorted as fuel p1ssing all over your engine isnt a good thing
Coolant leaks around the edge of the radiator where the plastic pipe is, very common, would keep an eye on it tbh.
RESPONCE : fuel lines were replaced prior to my purchase (it actually delayed me getting the car for a week or so !) will investigate the coolant, again thank for heads up !
High speed runs...
Its never really been proven BUT it can be one or more catalysts that cause the engine to fail (along with maf sensors and bad fuel), high speed runs can increase the engine temps which can cause detonation, ends up costing you a few k for a new engine.
Remapping with new mods fitted.
This can also be a catalyst to the above, decatting can increase the chance of det due to less back pressure, if you decat (if not already done so) then it needs remapping or it can blow the engine up (fickle things these subaru's), mainly on the STI's which have a more agressive setup.
RESPONCE : will watch this, i have heard the classic scoops dont suck in air above 120mph, any truth in this? car is decatted but was mapped by JGM after the mods have been done, car is always warmed up & cooled down, so hopefully i can avoid this ! again thanks for the heads up !
Gearboxes...
People will say these ty754's are stronger than the ty752's, and yes they are suppose to be, just as long as you dont over strain them and treat them well, still known for dying if abused (note lots of standing starts/agressive clutch work), most people who have had them go find they just go without warning, one crunch and pop, be warned!! (oh and the MY99 cars suffered from 5th gear issues, this is due to a retaining nut not being torqued to the correct tightness from the factory, affects ALL MY99 cars).
RESPONCE : i try to have mechanical sympathy, so hopefully this will last abit longer, but reverse is abit tempermental tbh, so will have to watch this ! what symptons will the 5th gear issue show ?
Subaru ownership can be really nice, it can also be really painful as they are not cheap to run/maintain/insure, when it goes wrong its normally expensive (1k+ bills easily) so you have to ride the good with the bad (and parts are like rocking horse poo due to subaru UK sucking big style).
RESPONCE : i knew this prior to purchase, but wow didn't know just how much fun this car would be ! already learn't they aren't cheap to insure or run, just got to get my hands dirty with maintenance ! and in regarsd to subaru UK, my god i didn't realise HOW BAD they want over £80 just for a new ariel !
HTH
hi Tony, can i just say WOW, and a massive massive thank you ! great info & knowledge obviously, i have responded to each section (see above), i know there are a lot of 'newbie' questions & im sure i could google alot of it, but hey what are forums for Use to have a MY99 v5 type R myself (along with a few new age JDM's), your car is a single scroll, vf28 turbocharger (twin scroll didnt come in till the MY03 models but those had a semi closed deck block), the V5 you have has an open deck block.
RESPONCE : need to be more careful what i take as 'gospel' from my random reading, i stand corrected and appreciated the knowledge
Start with the issues these suffer from.
Rust, rear arches.
You need to get this sorted asap, expect to pay over 500 quid to get it done properly as seeing the rust on the arch is only half the story, they have a double skin on the rear quarters, when you see the rust coming through its already eaten away half of the inside and no doubt needs a good 3 inches of repair inside that has already rotted, not the end of the world but painful.
MAF sensors, if you still have one, buy a new one, known issue on the MY99/00 cars, they also hate oiled filters and induction kits, biggest killer of these engines along with low quality fuel.
You can also get rust around the front screen, its a screen out job unfortunately and the glass being a different shade than UK cars...
RESPONCE : will check the windscreen when i get home, anywhere in particular to look at ?
and yes, the arches will be sorted by the end of the year, and i am expecting to see a large bill for it, considering arch spats maybe, any advise on these ?, will get a new MAF as recommended, no induction kit going on / on car, and car is run ONLY on SHELL V-POWER (this is also what it has been mapped for)
Cambelts/idlers.
Needs doing every 3 years on an MY99 (though not the idler but at the age this car is, get it sorted), if you have not had the belt changed then do it, its always best to know when YOU had it done.
RESPONCE : yes these are over due, they were last changed 5 years ago!! (although less than 30k ago)but as you said more age than mileage, are these easy to DIY ? or if not rough idea of cost ?
Servicing.
Every 6 months or 7.5k miles, most will do it once a year if its a low mileage car, no issues with doing so, but diffs and gearboxes need doing more regulary (2 years), adds to the cost (as do spark plugs every 2 years), really not the cheapest car to maintain and I ran 2 of them at the same time lol.
RESPONCE : had a service in prep for my ownership, although dont believe diff & gearbox oil was changed, want to DIY all of this in future, any recommendations to what OIL / SPARKS to use etc ?
That alarm system... bin it, get something decent installed and add a disklok, you wouldnt believe how easy these cars are to get into without damaging the locks
RESPONCE : any recommendations for a better alarm system ? and yes steering lock is on my shopping list, haven't seen a disklok before but they look ace, will invest ! but yes i have been shown the window / coat hanger trick
DCCD.
Has anyone shown or told you how to test it to see if its ok? also what settings to run it on?
RESPONCE : no, not as of yet, i understand 'how they work' to an extend, please enlighten me ?
ATM : in the wet, all the way back so green light is lit, in the dry move through to the organe sections, i can feel the steering getting 'more direect/ more RWD feeling' if that means anything ?
Fast rack steering.
Unfortunately the type R in V5 format they have the fast rack which lacks a bit in feel over the quick rack, so just dont drive a type RA
RESPONCE : i believe these can be swapped out, can they not ? although maybe a little hard to find
Rear washer.
These can die with old age, needs a replacement pump.
RESPONCE : yep, mine must be broken then, the wiper moves, but no spray, not on my priority list but will look into this ! thanks for the advise
Fuel leaks and coolant leaks.
Quite common on older cars, the pipes become brittle and they leak on the near side bulkhead going into the engine (fuel), if you smell fuel then its normally this, would suggest getting it sorted as fuel p1ssing all over your engine isnt a good thing
Coolant leaks around the edge of the radiator where the plastic pipe is, very common, would keep an eye on it tbh.
RESPONCE : fuel lines were replaced prior to my purchase (it actually delayed me getting the car for a week or so !) will investigate the coolant, again thank for heads up !
High speed runs...
Its never really been proven BUT it can be one or more catalysts that cause the engine to fail (along with maf sensors and bad fuel), high speed runs can increase the engine temps which can cause detonation, ends up costing you a few k for a new engine.
Remapping with new mods fitted.
This can also be a catalyst to the above, decatting can increase the chance of det due to less back pressure, if you decat (if not already done so) then it needs remapping or it can blow the engine up (fickle things these subaru's), mainly on the STI's which have a more agressive setup.
RESPONCE : will watch this, i have heard the classic scoops dont suck in air above 120mph, any truth in this? car is decatted but was mapped by JGM after the mods have been done, car is always warmed up & cooled down, so hopefully i can avoid this ! again thanks for the heads up !
Gearboxes...
People will say these ty754's are stronger than the ty752's, and yes they are suppose to be, just as long as you dont over strain them and treat them well, still known for dying if abused (note lots of standing starts/agressive clutch work), most people who have had them go find they just go without warning, one crunch and pop, be warned!! (oh and the MY99 cars suffered from 5th gear issues, this is due to a retaining nut not being torqued to the correct tightness from the factory, affects ALL MY99 cars).
RESPONCE : i try to have mechanical sympathy, so hopefully this will last abit longer, but reverse is abit tempermental tbh, so will have to watch this ! what symptons will the 5th gear issue show ?
Subaru ownership can be really nice, it can also be really painful as they are not cheap to run/maintain/insure, when it goes wrong its normally expensive (1k+ bills easily) so you have to ride the good with the bad (and parts are like rocking horse poo due to subaru UK sucking big style).
RESPONCE : i knew this prior to purchase, but wow didn't know just how much fun this car would be ! already learn't they aren't cheap to insure or run, just got to get my hands dirty with maintenance ! and in regarsd to subaru UK, my god i didn't realise HOW BAD they want over £80 just for a new ariel !
HTH
so once again thanks ! great to have experience from people who have actually done it / doing it
Ok will see what I can reply to
Windscreen rust, usually just under the rubber seal, its normally caused by having a new windscreen fitted and not being sealed correctly/paint coming off, just check under the seal for any bubbling, get it sorted sooner rather than later, once rust starts on subaru's its normally already taken hold and requires quite a bit of getting rid of (anywhere on the car), but getting a replacement screen can be a pain (exact type) but they are not that bad if you get an OEM one price wise.
Cambelt, a real pain because of its length, the kit is about £80, tensioner is extra I believe, its at the front of the engine so easy to get to but sometimes its easier just to get it all done in one hit (full service with everything done, just means for the next 2 years you just need oil changes).
Oil, now people will say thicker is better, its not, the correct oil type for your car is actually 10w40 semi synthetic, you can also use a 5w40 fully synthetic or a 10w40 fully synthetic, in the past I have used a 15w50 but in cold weather you really feel the drag on the engine (remember the first rating is cold and the 2nd is hot, do a search on oil viscosity).
Oils not recommended for your car by the manufacture are any 30 hot weight oil (5w30 etc) and w60 oils (10w60), I would stick with with a good w40 or w50 and doing oil changes can also lead to problems (not filling the oil filter can cause engine failure, priming the engine IS recommended but not deemed necessary, though I have always had this done by my dealer/speciallist).
The correct filter is also important (did I mention they can be fickle things these Subaru's? )
Regular maintenance is the best thing for your car but dont be over anal, you dont have to change a good fully synthetic oil every 3k miles, 5-6k is fine.
Look on opie oils for what oils are recommended, most go with silkolene or similar, I used Shell ultra which was fine for my cars useage.
DCCD.
Scoobynet can be a wealth of knowledge and experience, it also has its trolls and idiots as per any forum, the DCCD info is here http://www.scoobynet.com/technical-topics-archive-...
Putting it basically as the later Blob JDM cars had the A-DCCD which was an auto version and did everything for you (you could still switch to manual) but with just the manual version you should run these settings for these conditions.
Dry. All the way back to green.
Wet. Adjust 2 or 3 forward.
Snow. Push nearly all the way forward or use "Lock" depending on the conditions.
Lock. Should only really be used in extreme circumstances, good for getting off the line in drag races and lighting all 4 wheels up, you will feel the resisitance of the differentials though and will feel this when turning the car. Note your car has a center diff and rear plated LSD, front is an open diff if i remember correctly, the RA has a front LSD as does the Type R limited (and quick rack steering).
Quick rack... rocking horse poo, you can fit one but new age ones are not "compatiable" for a direct swap, 2nd hand if you can get one off a classic but it will probably need a full overhaul before fitting.
Testing the DCCD.
Full back (bottom green) there should be absolutely zero resistance, no noise or jerking, the further forward the more resistance, this is tested by putting the car in either forward or reverse (test both) and moving forward/backwards and turning the wheels. Any noise/resistance on the steering is probably wear on the diff/dccd. In anything but green moving the handbrake up a notch or 2 will release the dccd back to fully open (bottom green). Note:- you will feel resistance in anything but OPEN (bottom green), just to make that clear
Aerodynamics. Yup its said that the airflow is reduced at higher speeds, the Impreza isnt a high speed car, its a point to point car and it excels well in this role.
The new age STI's have a splitter in the scoop to give better air flow over the intercooler, there was a mod for the classics which give better airflow also, please note that only about 1/3 of the intercooler receives air anyway.
5th gear issue.
If it pops out when you floor it in 5th, its an issue
Windscreen rust, usually just under the rubber seal, its normally caused by having a new windscreen fitted and not being sealed correctly/paint coming off, just check under the seal for any bubbling, get it sorted sooner rather than later, once rust starts on subaru's its normally already taken hold and requires quite a bit of getting rid of (anywhere on the car), but getting a replacement screen can be a pain (exact type) but they are not that bad if you get an OEM one price wise.
Cambelt, a real pain because of its length, the kit is about £80, tensioner is extra I believe, its at the front of the engine so easy to get to but sometimes its easier just to get it all done in one hit (full service with everything done, just means for the next 2 years you just need oil changes).
Oil, now people will say thicker is better, its not, the correct oil type for your car is actually 10w40 semi synthetic, you can also use a 5w40 fully synthetic or a 10w40 fully synthetic, in the past I have used a 15w50 but in cold weather you really feel the drag on the engine (remember the first rating is cold and the 2nd is hot, do a search on oil viscosity).
Oils not recommended for your car by the manufacture are any 30 hot weight oil (5w30 etc) and w60 oils (10w60), I would stick with with a good w40 or w50 and doing oil changes can also lead to problems (not filling the oil filter can cause engine failure, priming the engine IS recommended but not deemed necessary, though I have always had this done by my dealer/speciallist).
The correct filter is also important (did I mention they can be fickle things these Subaru's?
)Regular maintenance is the best thing for your car but dont be over anal, you dont have to change a good fully synthetic oil every 3k miles, 5-6k is fine.
Look on opie oils for what oils are recommended, most go with silkolene or similar, I used Shell ultra which was fine for my cars useage.
DCCD.
Scoobynet can be a wealth of knowledge and experience, it also has its trolls and idiots as per any forum, the DCCD info is here http://www.scoobynet.com/technical-topics-archive-...
Putting it basically as the later Blob JDM cars had the A-DCCD which was an auto version and did everything for you (you could still switch to manual) but with just the manual version you should run these settings for these conditions.
Dry. All the way back to green.
Wet. Adjust 2 or 3 forward.
Snow. Push nearly all the way forward or use "Lock" depending on the conditions.
Lock. Should only really be used in extreme circumstances, good for getting off the line in drag races and lighting all 4 wheels up, you will feel the resisitance of the differentials though and will feel this when turning the car. Note your car has a center diff and rear plated LSD, front is an open diff if i remember correctly, the RA has a front LSD as does the Type R limited (and quick rack steering).
Quick rack... rocking horse poo, you can fit one but new age ones are not "compatiable" for a direct swap, 2nd hand if you can get one off a classic but it will probably need a full overhaul before fitting.
Testing the DCCD.
Full back (bottom green) there should be absolutely zero resistance, no noise or jerking, the further forward the more resistance, this is tested by putting the car in either forward or reverse (test both) and moving forward/backwards and turning the wheels. Any noise/resistance on the steering is probably wear on the diff/dccd. In anything but green moving the handbrake up a notch or 2 will release the dccd back to fully open (bottom green). Note:- you will feel resistance in anything but OPEN (bottom green), just to make that clear
Aerodynamics. Yup its said that the airflow is reduced at higher speeds, the Impreza isnt a high speed car, its a point to point car and it excels well in this role.
The new age STI's have a splitter in the scoop to give better air flow over the intercooler, there was a mod for the classics which give better airflow also, please note that only about 1/3 of the intercooler receives air anyway.
5th gear issue.
If it pops out when you floor it in 5th, its an issue
Edited by tonyb1968 on Thursday 2nd April 21:00
hi all, been a busy boy, so not really much to update
planning on giving it an overhaul over winter, but we shall see...
friend got a proper camera, so a few more photo's for you
the 'scuff' in the paintwork has now been sorted
!
should have some proper updates soon ! but for now all i will say is the more & more you trust the car, the better & better it gets
cheers guys
planning on giving it an overhaul over winter, but we shall see...
friend got a proper camera, so a few more photo's for you
the 'scuff' in the paintwork has now been sorted
!
should have some proper updates soon ! but for now all i will say is the more & more you trust the car, the better & better it gets
cheers guys
Edited by APHarris on Thursday 22 October 13:39
*** EDITED TO ADD, MASSIVE THANK YOU TO TONY FOR THE PARAGRAOH ABOVE, TOTALLY FORGOT TO REPLY !! **Edited by APHarris on Thursday 22 October 13:41
Lovely looking car there. I do love the 2 door scoobs.
I too test drove a P1 and was a bit underwhelmed.......maybe not the best idea to drive a 400bhp Evo on the way to the test drive though.
Always liked these type R models. Going to be on the lookout for a weekend toy next year and these are going to be very high up on the list.
Take care of her.
I too test drove a P1 and was a bit underwhelmed.......maybe not the best idea to drive a 400bhp Evo on the way to the test drive though.
Always liked these type R models. Going to be on the lookout for a weekend toy next year and these are going to be very high up on the list.
Take care of her.
DaveV6 said:
Hi,
One neat thing about DCCD in a classic (no ABS), is using it when braking in a straight line. As you lock up the transmission, its harder to lock up all 4 wheels, rather than just the front 2. So you can stand it on its nose :-)
Dave.
hi Dave,the tyres really let it down at the moment,but once i get some stickier rubber that is defiantly something i will have to try !! One neat thing about DCCD in a classic (no ABS), is using it when braking in a straight line. As you lock up the transmission, its harder to lock up all 4 wheels, rather than just the front 2. So you can stand it on its nose :-)
Dave.
Captainawesome said:
Lovely looking car there. I do love the 2 door scoobs.
I too test drove a P1 and was a bit underwhelmed.......maybe not the best idea to drive a 400bhp Evo on the way to the test drive though.
Always liked these type R models. Going to be on the lookout for a weekend toy next year and these are going to be very high up on the list.
Take care of her.
they are brilliant ! i highly recommend trying one, i have no intention of ever selling this to be honest ! never even been in an evo to be honest let alone driven one, something that is on the to do list for sure though I too test drove a P1 and was a bit underwhelmed.......maybe not the best idea to drive a 400bhp Evo on the way to the test drive though.
Always liked these type R models. Going to be on the lookout for a weekend toy next year and these are going to be very high up on the list.
Take care of her.
Great cars and maybe the best of all of the classics.
I've owned my RB5 for quite a long time now and I've always loved it. My car like yours has equal length headers although I've done that so I could convert it to a twin scroll turbo. I'm running a VF37 and just over 350bhp.
I think the trick with keeping these cars good is to attend to them and don't sit on maintenance. I've seen many people not do jobs for a long time and for other things to fail or for the job to become very big. The arches are a good example, if you allow the rust to get into the inner arch then you may have big issues with the strut towers and suspension.
I've spent a huge amount on my car over the last 5+ years and she's in great shape but its been quite expensive (several times the cars value). The engine rebuild was over £7k alone.
I tend to baby the car maintenance wise (3k oil change/99 fuel only etc) however once the car is warmed it gets used hard and its been brilliant the entire time I've owned it although it's nearly broken my will a few times with huge bills.
I think these cars are something else, their raw, visceral nature, amazing grip and adjust-ability on the limit.
I've owned my RB5 for quite a long time now and I've always loved it. My car like yours has equal length headers although I've done that so I could convert it to a twin scroll turbo. I'm running a VF37 and just over 350bhp.
I think the trick with keeping these cars good is to attend to them and don't sit on maintenance. I've seen many people not do jobs for a long time and for other things to fail or for the job to become very big. The arches are a good example, if you allow the rust to get into the inner arch then you may have big issues with the strut towers and suspension.
I've spent a huge amount on my car over the last 5+ years and she's in great shape but its been quite expensive (several times the cars value). The engine rebuild was over £7k alone.
I tend to baby the car maintenance wise (3k oil change/99 fuel only etc) however once the car is warmed it gets used hard and its been brilliant the entire time I've owned it although it's nearly broken my will a few times with huge bills.
I think these cars are something else, their raw, visceral nature, amazing grip and adjust-ability on the limit.
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