A tale of three discoveries (4x4 and V8 content)
Discussion
Playsatan said:
One question, what is that mark on the bore?
Looks like a blob of assembly lube that dripped off the crank when the block was upside down.All the bores were cleaned, checked and lubed with engine oil before sliding the pistons in (rings also oiled)
You still made me go out to the garage and double check this morning though
Hi guys,
Didn't make as much progress today as I'd hoped because couldn't pick up the heads until this afternoon. Got some more done all the same though
Two finished heads, wrapped up safe
Very happy with Scholar's work. Clean, skim, bulleted valve guides and re-cut seats as requested. Told them I'd do the valve lapping myself but the guys forgot and did it themselves. Didn't charge me the extra though which was cool. Also while talking I mentioned my ARP studs didnt come with lube, he went straight out the back and grabbed a sachet free of charge too!
Here's some pictures.
Standard valve guides (Took picture before I dropped them off)
New "bulleted" guides for better flow.
Like I said, very happy. Next I cleaned up the valve gear ready for the rebuild.
Valve springs free length checked. All good.
Stem seals fitted.
Springs in.
Masked up and a few coats of silver.
That's as far as I got today, left them to dry overnight and will fit them to yhe block tomorrow.
Didn't make as much progress today as I'd hoped because couldn't pick up the heads until this afternoon. Got some more done all the same though
Two finished heads, wrapped up safe
Very happy with Scholar's work. Clean, skim, bulleted valve guides and re-cut seats as requested. Told them I'd do the valve lapping myself but the guys forgot and did it themselves. Didn't charge me the extra though which was cool. Also while talking I mentioned my ARP studs didnt come with lube, he went straight out the back and grabbed a sachet free of charge too!
Here's some pictures.
Standard valve guides (Took picture before I dropped them off)
New "bulleted" guides for better flow.
Like I said, very happy. Next I cleaned up the valve gear ready for the rebuild.
Valve springs free length checked. All good.
Stem seals fitted.
Springs in.
Masked up and a few coats of silver.
That's as far as I got today, left them to dry overnight and will fit them to yhe block tomorrow.
Bit late but here's an update from the weekend.
First job was to get the heads fitted with new elring composite gaskets.
Torquing them up was nerve racking as there is a lot of stories on the net about the threads pulling out of the aluminium block when using studs. Some people say the 80lb-ft torque specified by ARP is too high for the block and to only do it to 65/70lbs-ft.
I decided to put my engineering head on, along with a few brave pills, and trust the manufacturer. Went with the full ARP torque loading but first ensuring the threads were spottless and giving a good settling time between each tightening sequence. All torqued up fine with no stripped threads, so IMO anyone pulling them out is either doing something wrong or has a damaged block to start with.
Anyway, with the heads on it was onto valve train. First with the new Kent H180 "high torque" camshaft.
Fitted along with plenty of cam lube.
Retaining plate fitted.
Timing gears with new chain
New cam followeres with more cam lube.
New pushrods in
Some may remember one of the reasons leading to a rebuild was the damage found on the rockers.
To sort this I bought a used but in good condition rocker shaft. I then stripped my two old ones, inspected them and chose the best parts to rebuild one good shaft.
New pair together
Fitted
Next the lifter preload needed to be set up, this is the distance between the spring loaded center of the tappet and the circlip that retains it. Needs to be 40-60 thou, measured when the cam lobe is at it's lowest point (valve closed).
It's a pain in the arse to measure so common practice is to make a "go no-go" guage. My weapon of choise was the hook from an old coat hanger.
Straitened and then bent at right angles both ends.
Each end filed to the corresponding tollerance
This can then be poked under the circlip to check clearance. When the small end fits but the big end doesn't the preload is within spec. Easy peasy :thumb:
Adjustment is made by placing shims under the rockershaft pedestal.
With that setup and torqued it was time to sort the front cover.
Cleaned inside including inside the oil pump housing and removal of the oil pressure valve.
New oil pump gears fitted. Packed with vaseline to help with quick priming on first start.
Cleaned and painted outside with new crank seal, Oil filter fitted loosly to keep crap out.
Fitted.
New water pump
Moving on, vally gasket fitted.
Lower manifold fitted, cleaned but not painted to save time as it's not seen once the upper manifold is fitted.
Engine turned over to fit oil pickup and sump. Also not painted, occasionally have to remind myself this is a Landrover that goes off road a lot
And with some freshly cleaned and painted rocker covers, there you have it. One high compression 4.6 rover V8 built and ready to fit
Thanks for following guys
First job was to get the heads fitted with new elring composite gaskets.
Torquing them up was nerve racking as there is a lot of stories on the net about the threads pulling out of the aluminium block when using studs. Some people say the 80lb-ft torque specified by ARP is too high for the block and to only do it to 65/70lbs-ft.
I decided to put my engineering head on, along with a few brave pills, and trust the manufacturer. Went with the full ARP torque loading but first ensuring the threads were spottless and giving a good settling time between each tightening sequence. All torqued up fine with no stripped threads, so IMO anyone pulling them out is either doing something wrong or has a damaged block to start with.
Anyway, with the heads on it was onto valve train. First with the new Kent H180 "high torque" camshaft.
Fitted along with plenty of cam lube.
Retaining plate fitted.
Timing gears with new chain
New cam followeres with more cam lube.
New pushrods in
Some may remember one of the reasons leading to a rebuild was the damage found on the rockers.
To sort this I bought a used but in good condition rocker shaft. I then stripped my two old ones, inspected them and chose the best parts to rebuild one good shaft.
New pair together
Fitted
Next the lifter preload needed to be set up, this is the distance between the spring loaded center of the tappet and the circlip that retains it. Needs to be 40-60 thou, measured when the cam lobe is at it's lowest point (valve closed).
It's a pain in the arse to measure so common practice is to make a "go no-go" guage. My weapon of choise was the hook from an old coat hanger.
Straitened and then bent at right angles both ends.
Each end filed to the corresponding tollerance
This can then be poked under the circlip to check clearance. When the small end fits but the big end doesn't the preload is within spec. Easy peasy :thumb:
Adjustment is made by placing shims under the rockershaft pedestal.
With that setup and torqued it was time to sort the front cover.
Cleaned inside including inside the oil pump housing and removal of the oil pressure valve.
New oil pump gears fitted. Packed with vaseline to help with quick priming on first start.
Cleaned and painted outside with new crank seal, Oil filter fitted loosly to keep crap out.
Fitted.
New water pump
Moving on, vally gasket fitted.
Lower manifold fitted, cleaned but not painted to save time as it's not seen once the upper manifold is fitted.
Engine turned over to fit oil pickup and sump. Also not painted, occasionally have to remind myself this is a Landrover that goes off road a lot
And with some freshly cleaned and painted rocker covers, there you have it. One high compression 4.6 rover V8 built and ready to fit
Thanks for following guys
Hi guys.
Got back home on Friday night so made some more progress.
First job was flywheel and flex plate which needed a locking bar knocking up.
While the crank was locked I also tightened the front pulley bolt up to the correct torque loading of "Oh-my-f**king-god-I-think-I-popped-a-rib-tight"
Then it was finally time to put it back in the hole.
Sorry for the lack of pictures, I was on a roll. Got all of the ancillaries and plumbing fitted.
Currently waiting for my ECU to come back from Tornado systems. On Mark Adams' recommendation, I've got a new Bosch AFM for a 4.6 P38 range rover.
This will suit the map better as it is slightly larger than the standard Discovery one. (New top, old bottom)
While I'm waiting for the ECU, I wanted to make sure the engine will be well looked after. So a new rad and thermostat have been fitted.
I also picked up some gauges to keep an eye on things. Oil pressure, water temp and voltage.
Picked these as they match the standard clocks.
They will sit on the dash here. Just in a cheap universal pod for now but I'll make a more factory looking one later, somthing dash coloured and shaped to suit.
The small packet in the first picture is full of green LEDs. These have been used to change the illumination to match the rest of the dash at night. Nice and factory looking
Not long until the first start now.
Got back home on Friday night so made some more progress.
First job was flywheel and flex plate which needed a locking bar knocking up.
While the crank was locked I also tightened the front pulley bolt up to the correct torque loading of "Oh-my-f**king-god-I-think-I-popped-a-rib-tight"
Then it was finally time to put it back in the hole.
Sorry for the lack of pictures, I was on a roll. Got all of the ancillaries and plumbing fitted.
Currently waiting for my ECU to come back from Tornado systems. On Mark Adams' recommendation, I've got a new Bosch AFM for a 4.6 P38 range rover.
This will suit the map better as it is slightly larger than the standard Discovery one. (New top, old bottom)
While I'm waiting for the ECU, I wanted to make sure the engine will be well looked after. So a new rad and thermostat have been fitted.
I also picked up some gauges to keep an eye on things. Oil pressure, water temp and voltage.
Picked these as they match the standard clocks.
They will sit on the dash here. Just in a cheap universal pod for now but I'll make a more factory looking one later, somthing dash coloured and shaped to suit.
The small packet in the first picture is full of green LEDs. These have been used to change the illumination to match the rest of the dash at night. Nice and factory looking
Not long until the first start now
.Edited by JordanTurbo on Tuesday 21st July 16:53
cheers guys.
Update from yesterday............. It's alive.
ECU arrived Wednesday but I didn't get a chance to fit it due to work. Plugged it in yesterday, turned the engine over without the fuel relay to prime then put the relay in to go for a start. Fired first time without any hesitation and runs nice and smoothly on the new map, very pleased.
Went and got a 20ltr jerry can of V-power and Insured it last night ,so I can take it for a run today and see how it goes.
Update from yesterday............. It's alive.
ECU arrived Wednesday but I didn't get a chance to fit it due to work. Plugged it in yesterday, turned the engine over without the fuel relay to prime then put the relay in to go for a start. Fired first time without any hesitation and runs nice and smoothly on the new map, very pleased.
Went and got a 20ltr jerry can of V-power and Insured it last night ,so I can take it for a run today and see how it goes.
Edited by JordanTurbo on Sunday 16th August 09:22
JordanTurbo said:
Hooli said:
Are the earlier laning pics around Dorking ish? I think I spotted the lane down to the cricket club in Shere.
Yes, well spotted. My inlaws live in Westcott and most of those lanes are up on RanmoreHi guys, sorry for the lack of updates but I've been busy moving house since after I got the V8 running. Here's the few updates that have happened in the meantime.
Before it could be driven too far I needed to sort the airbox out to match the larger P38 air flow meter. This is what it looked like to get it running in the first place.
Obviously not good enough so I sourced a P38 airbox.
The box itself is totally different to fit the range rover body, but the top covers are interchangeable with just the outlet size being different. (old one at the top had all the clips cut off so I could get a good seal when bodged)
Fitted to the Discovery box along with a fresh filter. Much better.
With help from the house move from Suffolk to Surrey, the running in miles went by nice and quick.
Which meant a swap from the Millers running in oil to the classic sport 20w50 it will live on.
With the running in over I could also start running the engine on gas. 49.9ppl, don't mind if I do.
Some may have noticed that I refitted the old aux belt when I rebuilt the engine. At the time I hadn't decided whether I wanted to reinstate the "ACE" hydraulic anti roll bar system which would have needed another pump and larger belt. With some miles on the disco it feels fine on the standard steel bars so a new non-ACE belt was bought along with new idler pulleys.
Fitted. You can also see the location for the water temp sender in this picture. It's not ideal but it works - I'll make a new T-piece that can house both the bleed crew and the sender at some point.
Also fitted 8 new plugs to keep the ignition system tip-top for running gas.
So with the engine running nicely, I turned my attention to the exhaust. Ever since the I got the disco it had a rattly right cat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qUzAW7ZpP8
Seeing as LPG burns clean, the Disco will pass the MOT emissions test easily without the cats fitted. Decided to Gut them instead of a straight removal, just incase I get a difficult MOT tester in future. Cut open, remove catalyst, weld shut, job done
Unfortunately, there wasn't much left in the cats to remove. Most of the cat had migrated into the centre silencer. With the baffles in the box it couldn't just be tipped out, so some extra surgery was required.
just needs welding back up now, although I'm planning to change the pipe work inside slightly to make it a little louder.
While it's off I'm currently running the straight pipe from my old TD5 as the exhaust is the same from the Y-join back.
It sounds great, if a little anti-social.
So that's us up to date with changes, just been enjoying the V8 while we set up the new house. had an escape from unpacking the other day and went to play in the mud on Sailsbury plain for an afternoon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uh5wdOH53NA
And the result at the end of the day
thanks for reading
Before it could be driven too far I needed to sort the airbox out to match the larger P38 air flow meter. This is what it looked like to get it running in the first place.
Obviously not good enough so I sourced a P38 airbox.
The box itself is totally different to fit the range rover body, but the top covers are interchangeable with just the outlet size being different. (old one at the top had all the clips cut off so I could get a good seal when bodged
)Fitted to the Discovery box along with a fresh filter. Much better
.With help from the house move from Suffolk to Surrey, the running in miles went by nice and quick.
Which meant a swap from the Millers running in oil to the classic sport 20w50 it will live on.
With the running in over I could also start running the engine on gas. 49.9ppl, don't mind if I do.
Some may have noticed that I refitted the old aux belt when I rebuilt the engine. At the time I hadn't decided whether I wanted to reinstate the "ACE" hydraulic anti roll bar system which would have needed another pump and larger belt. With some miles on the disco it feels fine on the standard steel bars so a new non-ACE belt was bought along with new idler pulleys.
Fitted. You can also see the location for the water temp sender in this picture. It's not ideal but it works - I'll make a new T-piece that can house both the bleed crew and the sender at some point.
Also fitted 8 new plugs to keep the ignition system tip-top for running gas.
So with the engine running nicely, I turned my attention to the exhaust. Ever since the I got the disco it had a rattly right cat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qUzAW7ZpP8
Seeing as LPG burns clean, the Disco will pass the MOT emissions test easily without the cats fitted. Decided to Gut them instead of a straight removal, just incase I get a difficult MOT tester in future. Cut open, remove catalyst, weld shut, job done
Unfortunately, there wasn't much left in the cats to remove. Most of the cat had migrated into the centre silencer.
With the baffles in the box it couldn't just be tipped out, so some extra surgery was required.just needs welding back up now, although I'm planning to change the pipe work inside slightly to make it a little louder.
While it's off I'm currently running the straight pipe from my old TD5 as the exhaust is the same from the Y-join back.
It sounds great, if a little anti-social.
So that's us up to date with changes, just been enjoying the V8 while we set up the new house. had an escape from unpacking the other day and went to play in the mud on Sailsbury plain for an afternoon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uh5wdOH53NA
And the result at the end of the day
thanks for reading
Edited by JordanTurbo on Sunday 16th August 10:59
Thanks, It's been a while so here's another update for you.
The 33" Pro-comps are AWESOME in mud, but the large block design makes them a bit loud on the road for daily duties. The D2 has therefore spent some time back on it's standard 18's while I chose a new set.
Decided to go with a set of Cooper ST Maxx.
Same 285/75r16 size so still working out at 33", but slightly less aggressive. I read very good things about their road manners while still performing well off road. I was a little worried they wouldn't be aggressive enough with the STT also available from Cooper, but its safe to say pictures don't do them justice - they are very chunky for an AT tyre!
compared to the old Pro-comps
Had them fitted to a new set of 16X8J steel wheels to widen the track a little compared to the previous alloys.
Fitted along with a quick jet wash to remove the blue protective spray, makes me itch when people roll around with blue wheels.
And some final pics. Well happy with them
Thanks for reading.
The 33" Pro-comps are AWESOME in mud, but the large block design makes them a bit loud on the road for daily duties. The D2 has therefore spent some time back on it's standard 18's while I chose a new set.
Decided to go with a set of Cooper ST Maxx.
Same 285/75r16 size so still working out at 33", but slightly less aggressive. I read very good things about their road manners while still performing well off road. I was a little worried they wouldn't be aggressive enough with the STT also available from Cooper, but its safe to say pictures don't do them justice - they are very chunky for an AT tyre!
compared to the old Pro-comps
Had them fitted to a new set of 16X8J steel wheels to widen the track a little compared to the previous alloys.
Fitted along with a quick jet wash to remove the blue protective spray, makes me itch when people roll around with blue wheels.
And some final pics. Well happy with them
Thanks for reading.
Edited by JordanTurbo on Saturday 3rd October 13:11
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