Hybrid Series 3 Land Rover
Discussion
I brought this last year, but thought this evening that I haven't done a thread on it yet so here goes.
After coming accross a bit of cash I decided I wanted a new project, ideally something a bit stupid and old school that would be perfect for tinkering. I found this on Autos
te and on the photos it looked a good one, description sounded ok. Essentially as Series 3 landy running a classic range rover chassis with a V8 & defender front grill. A few messages later via eBay and went along in the SOTW Saab with a mate with the intention of 1 of us driving the Saab, the other in the landy.
The Landy was in the depths of Norfolk and was probably about a 100mile journey each way, but if it looks a good deal then no harm in travelling. Luckily my mate has Series 3 landy aswell so we know a bit about these, not massive amounts but we were both expecting to find a heap with a fubar'd chassis.
Got there and it didn't quite look as good as in the pictures but it was 'ok' - every panel battered, awful paint job but hey it adds to the charm
The chasis / bulkead which was the major areas of concern all looked in very good nick however! Took it for a spin around the local roads, drove pretty well except for the needing all the strength in the leg to stop the damn thing! Anyway, purchase made and proceeded to drive back.
Drove back without 'major' fault however, there was a couple of instances of SUPER DEATH WOBBLE... The first time it occured it scared the jebus' out of me.. I think I literally thought the entire front end of the car was about to snap off, the wobbling was that violent! Anyway more on that later..
Photo as purchased
Anyways, so I've had him about a year now and only really just got it working properly. There were a number of fairly major issues . For some reason a very tiny brake servo was installed, it didn't work properly and wasn't connected. Further this it would appear that the carbs had been tuned to compensate for this and the was an open vacuum on the engine to where the vaccumm for the servo should be. Correct servo installed, carbs cleaned out, tuned to suit and seems to be running spot on. My first experience of carbs and with the help of this forum it seems there not the minefield I feared they may be.
Next up steering / Wheel wobble. The car has a very rare 3 bolt steering box which apparently only appeared on the early classic range rovers, this leaked like crazy. Infact it leaked so much that when I picked it up it had no power steering and when I topped it up, it litterally pissed out with the car stationary. Luckily I locally sourced a second hand box and installed, again not as bad as I had feared and that seems to be running beautifully.
Next up the Swivel preload... These were far to loose, not sure if this was the main cause of the wobble but I'm sure it didn't help
Finnaly, steering damper, or lack of. There was no damper at all, so commonly at around 50mph all hell would break out through the steering! The drag link (not sure on term) had no bracket for the damper, not the diff so luckily local landy breaker again sorted me out on that one, new steering damper fitted.
Probably done about 200miles in it since and not the slightest of wobbles, and stopping beautifully every time! MOT passed with flying colours...
So as far as I can gather, I'm sure someone more knowledge will tell me otherwise but its a cut down Range rover chassis, Series 3 rear, possibly Series 2a front wings (they have space for mirror in the front corner?), Defender front grill and bonnet, Series 3 bulkhead.
Mechanically its a 3.5 V8 with twin SU's and I believe a Jaguar V12 gearbox mated to the standard transfer box.
Internally I think the seats from a Japanese 90's car, they are shockingly comfortable! Unfortuantely, some bellend has cut the middle bulkhead to allow for them to recline further so I am looking at ways to re-introduce some strength to this area.
Possibly the same person has also relocated the fuel tank to behind the seats, so its sitting atop of the chassis; This is covered by a sheet of chequer plate etc.. I believe this is to increase ground clearance? - Hmmm well the original tank still appears to be there.
Unfortunately that seems to be a running theme throughout the truck, some pieces really bodged, some done quite nicely!
Anyway, some photos as he stands now; I've given the chassis a coat of hammerite, sprayed the wheels black, painted a few bits, just generally tidied it up. Also as the wheels where sitting quite prominent from the bodywork fitted some 'flexiflares' which I think look ok. Ignore the polythene bag covering the vent – I've taken the vent to the local paint shop to get the paint matched.
Plans for him, ideally reinstate a Series 3 front grill and bonnet, but I'm not entirely sure if it would all fit. There is quite a bit of space in there at the moment but I'm not sure how recessed the grill should be from the front of the car. Anyway, hopefully go to a few landy shows over the summer and pick up a few bits for it, but overall it must be said I absolutely adore it now!
I had phases of hating it and wanting scrap the damn thing but now I'm back driving it is just lovely, so smooth, easy, effotless and without a radio or any distractions its actually quite calming!
After coming accross a bit of cash I decided I wanted a new project, ideally something a bit stupid and old school that would be perfect for tinkering. I found this on Autos
te and on the photos it looked a good one, description sounded ok. Essentially as Series 3 landy running a classic range rover chassis with a V8 & defender front grill. A few messages later via eBay and went along in the SOTW Saab with a mate with the intention of 1 of us driving the Saab, the other in the landy.The Landy was in the depths of Norfolk and was probably about a 100mile journey each way, but if it looks a good deal then no harm in travelling. Luckily my mate has Series 3 landy aswell so we know a bit about these, not massive amounts but we were both expecting to find a heap with a fubar'd chassis.
Got there and it didn't quite look as good as in the pictures but it was 'ok' - every panel battered, awful paint job but hey it adds to the charm
The chasis / bulkead which was the major areas of concern all looked in very good nick however! Took it for a spin around the local roads, drove pretty well except for the needing all the strength in the leg to stop the damn thing! Anyway, purchase made and proceeded to drive back.Drove back without 'major' fault however, there was a couple of instances of SUPER DEATH WOBBLE... The first time it occured it scared the jebus' out of me.. I think I literally thought the entire front end of the car was about to snap off, the wobbling was that violent! Anyway more on that later..
Photo as purchased
Anyways, so I've had him about a year now and only really just got it working properly. There were a number of fairly major issues . For some reason a very tiny brake servo was installed, it didn't work properly and wasn't connected. Further this it would appear that the carbs had been tuned to compensate for this and the was an open vacuum on the engine to where the vaccumm for the servo should be. Correct servo installed, carbs cleaned out, tuned to suit and seems to be running spot on. My first experience of carbs and with the help of this forum it seems there not the minefield I feared they may be.
Next up steering / Wheel wobble. The car has a very rare 3 bolt steering box which apparently only appeared on the early classic range rovers, this leaked like crazy. Infact it leaked so much that when I picked it up it had no power steering and when I topped it up, it litterally pissed out with the car stationary. Luckily I locally sourced a second hand box and installed, again not as bad as I had feared and that seems to be running beautifully.
Next up the Swivel preload... These were far to loose, not sure if this was the main cause of the wobble but I'm sure it didn't help
Finnaly, steering damper, or lack of. There was no damper at all, so commonly at around 50mph all hell would break out through the steering! The drag link (not sure on term) had no bracket for the damper, not the diff so luckily local landy breaker again sorted me out on that one, new steering damper fitted.
Probably done about 200miles in it since and not the slightest of wobbles, and stopping beautifully every time! MOT passed with flying colours...
So as far as I can gather, I'm sure someone more knowledge will tell me otherwise but its a cut down Range rover chassis, Series 3 rear, possibly Series 2a front wings (they have space for mirror in the front corner?), Defender front grill and bonnet, Series 3 bulkhead.
Mechanically its a 3.5 V8 with twin SU's and I believe a Jaguar V12 gearbox mated to the standard transfer box.
Internally I think the seats from a Japanese 90's car, they are shockingly comfortable! Unfortuantely, some bellend has cut the middle bulkhead to allow for them to recline further so I am looking at ways to re-introduce some strength to this area.
Possibly the same person has also relocated the fuel tank to behind the seats, so its sitting atop of the chassis; This is covered by a sheet of chequer plate etc.. I believe this is to increase ground clearance? - Hmmm well the original tank still appears to be there.
Unfortunately that seems to be a running theme throughout the truck, some pieces really bodged, some done quite nicely!
Anyway, some photos as he stands now; I've given the chassis a coat of hammerite, sprayed the wheels black, painted a few bits, just generally tidied it up. Also as the wheels where sitting quite prominent from the bodywork fitted some 'flexiflares' which I think look ok. Ignore the polythene bag covering the vent – I've taken the vent to the local paint shop to get the paint matched.
Plans for him, ideally reinstate a Series 3 front grill and bonnet, but I'm not entirely sure if it would all fit. There is quite a bit of space in there at the moment but I'm not sure how recessed the grill should be from the front of the car. Anyway, hopefully go to a few landy shows over the summer and pick up a few bits for it, but overall it must be said I absolutely adore it now!
I had phases of hating it and wanting scrap the damn thing but now I'm back driving it is just lovely, so smooth, easy, effotless and without a radio or any distractions its actually quite calming!
I used to have a S3 Lw/Wt. That had the original recessed grill & a V8. To make it all fit the leccy fan was in front of the rad & the engine had got a P6 Rover timing chain assembly. The simplex chain in this shortens the engine by a couple of inch. I found this gem out when trying to replace the waterpump, took three orders to get one to match.
Hi Tommo,
Nice looking beast you have there. I too have a similar project on the go at the moment - albeit with a different base chassis and suspension. Out of interest, where did you get your Flexy Flares from? I was toying with the idea of cutting the wings to fit Defender wheel arch extensions, however the Flexy Flares appear to preserve the older look which I would prefer.
Cheers
James
Nice looking beast you have there. I too have a similar project on the go at the moment - albeit with a different base chassis and suspension. Out of interest, where did you get your Flexy Flares from? I was toying with the idea of cutting the wings to fit Defender wheel arch extensions, however the Flexy Flares appear to preserve the older look which I would prefer.
Cheers
James
Hooli said:
I used to have a S3 Lw/Wt. That had the original recessed grill & a V8. To make it all fit the leccy fan was in front of the rad & the engine had got a P6 Rover timing chain assembly. The simplex chain in this shortens the engine by a couple of inch. I found this gem out when trying to replace the waterpump, took three orders to get one to match.
Hmmmmm so its not quite as easy as new bonnet, new locations for a few bits and new rad? 
... Oh well...The flexi flares I brought from Amazon.com (U.S)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029X0ZG?psc=1&...
They arrived in about a week, cost about £50 and think paid about £10 for delivery. Plus about a week after it arrived I got refunded £15 due to something with customs!?
Haven't taken it off-roading with them on, but they flex with a bit of force so should be able to take a few hits easily and theres probably about 15 'tecscrews' per wheel arch holding them on they should be firmly in place. Wasn't fully convinced at first but I now think they really suit it..
tommobot said:
Hooli said:
I used to have a S3 Lw/Wt. That had the original recessed grill & a V8. To make it all fit the leccy fan was in front of the rad & the engine had got a P6 Rover timing chain assembly. The simplex chain in this shortens the engine by a couple of inch. I found this gem out when trying to replace the waterpump, took three orders to get one to match.
Hmmmmm so its not quite as easy as new bonnet, new locations for a few bits and new rad? ... Oh well...Took it on its longest journey yet, 120mile round trip and a bit of off roading to the Land Rover show at Billing. Performed faultlessly all day, and was even rather good for the most part of road.
Got myself a little present for it, steering guard as seen below. I knew this would be a ballache to fit, as its a Range rover classic chassis I beleive, but somebody has welded the front bumper on and removed some standard fixing points for the guard. So it would have to be butchered and welded to fit.
The first picture shows it as initially fitted, second is following post cutting. I think it looks a bit to low / maybe too far forwards to be honest, not entirely sure really. Thoughts? Plan is to weld the steering guard legs to the chassis once the angle looks ok
Got myself a little present for it, steering guard as seen below. I knew this would be a ballache to fit, as its a Range rover classic chassis I beleive, but somebody has welded the front bumper on and removed some standard fixing points for the guard. So it would have to be butchered and welded to fit.
The first picture shows it as initially fitted, second is following post cutting. I think it looks a bit to low / maybe too far forwards to be honest, not entirely sure really. Thoughts? Plan is to weld the steering guard legs to the chassis once the angle looks ok
I would love a hybrid series Land Rover but I thought vosa/dvla/whoever where really clamping down on these?
A 100" one would be fine so no chassis shortening just out rigger and cross member swapping but even this can't be done despite you being able to change them like for like on a non hybrid.
A 100" one would be fine so no chassis shortening just out rigger and cross member swapping but even this can't be done despite you being able to change them like for like on a non hybrid.
You can do it, you're just supposed to put them in for an IVA afterwards. It might end up on a Q plate too.
I was thinking about it with my old Discovery, it requires outrigger changes and the rear of the chassis cutting down. Both things will trigger an IVA, even if all the main running gear remains original.
I was thinking about it with my old Discovery, it requires outrigger changes and the rear of the chassis cutting down. Both things will trigger an IVA, even if all the main running gear remains original.
I've never liked the thought of rolling one of these, would definetly hurt alot! So, purchased a roll bar. Got an absolute bargain and paid £20 for this, unfortunately it was 120 miles away in Liverpool but strapped to roof of Saab, job done.
As far as I can tell, it will be a roof off job to get this to fit. Also rather annoyingly somebody has relocated the fuel tank to sit on top of the chassis internally, exactly where the front end of the roll cage would sit on the chassis. However, I can't see why it cant be moved 100mm further back and new fittings fabricated, just a bit of a ball ache.
But it adds safety to it, and thats the main thing. Will also mean I can run around with the sides, doortops, roof and front windscreen folded down!
As far as I can tell, it will be a roof off job to get this to fit. Also rather annoyingly somebody has relocated the fuel tank to sit on top of the chassis internally, exactly where the front end of the roll cage would sit on the chassis. However, I can't see why it cant be moved 100mm further back and new fittings fabricated, just a bit of a ball ache.
But it adds safety to it, and thats the main thing. Will also mean I can run around with the sides, doortops, roof and front windscreen folded down!
So been quite busy on this again... Purchased a few series bits , took out the old defender front panel and got to wokr fitting the series bits.
Basically its a series front panel, series rad which I think should cool the V8. All fits, fan infront of rad to push air through rather than to pull as before. I couldn't keep the same rad as before because of the steering box location, so had to make do with this rad. Worst case I can get it re-cored. Just needs bit of paint, and few bits sorting out and then ready to hit the road again..
New engine bay setup, could get another electric fan in there, but hopefully the 1 infront of rad should be sufficient. The series 'front' panel has been massively cut down to get it all to fit.
So few issues. from the head of the manifold between the carbs I had a pipe that lead to be bottom of the old rad, also from the header tank I had a pipe heading to the top of the old rad.
The series rad however only appears to have the 1 location where I could possibly plumb this in, I'm sort of thinking to get a 'y-piece', join these two hoses into 1 and put them into the top of the radiator? Thoughts welcome
Basically its a series front panel, series rad which I think should cool the V8. All fits, fan infront of rad to push air through rather than to pull as before. I couldn't keep the same rad as before because of the steering box location, so had to make do with this rad. Worst case I can get it re-cored. Just needs bit of paint, and few bits sorting out and then ready to hit the road again..
New engine bay setup, could get another electric fan in there, but hopefully the 1 infront of rad should be sufficient. The series 'front' panel has been massively cut down to get it all to fit.
So few issues. from the head of the manifold between the carbs I had a pipe that lead to be bottom of the old rad, also from the header tank I had a pipe heading to the top of the old rad.
The series rad however only appears to have the 1 location where I could possibly plumb this in, I'm sort of thinking to get a 'y-piece', join these two hoses into 1 and put them into the top of the radiator? Thoughts welcome
Definitely 2a front wings - s3 have the wankel-shaped intake in the passenger wing for the heater.
I'm not surprised the original fuel tank's not in use - it's bloody tiny. My four-pot s3 88" doesn't quite make 150 mile range, so I hate to think what a v8 would be like.
Looks loads better with that series front panel, too, and those knife-edge bonnets are growing on me - mine's got the chubbier "deluxe".
I'm not surprised the original fuel tank's not in use - it's bloody tiny. My four-pot s3 88" doesn't quite make 150 mile range, so I hate to think what a v8 would be like.
Looks loads better with that series front panel, too, and those knife-edge bonnets are growing on me - mine's got the chubbier "deluxe".
Its 'in' as such, it fits within the car but needs a bit of welding doing to it. I had to cut it in half, and take a few mm out of the middle. I've got tube to sleeve over the top of the cut and to refit the cross brace but I can weld just about, but in terms of rollbar welding i'd much rather take it to someone who knows what there doing!
tommobot said:
Few issues regarding the cooling system, it seems to be running hotter than I remembered, alot closer to the 'H' on the gauge but still within the 'Normal' range on the dial. A freind and previous RV8 owner said his was like this aswell.
Thinking to get the radiator a good flush before using it properly, also as shown on the photo above I think I have 2 header tanks now as I think the filling cap on the radiator means that would be considered as the header tank? I'm wondering if I should remove the previous header tank, this would make the routing of pipes easier I believe.
The other thing I'm thinking about is fitting a lower temp thermostat, I've seen theres' lower temp thermostats available, any one had any experience of these?
tommobot said:
Few issues regarding the cooling system, it seems to be running hotter than I remembered, alot closer to the 'H' on the gauge but still within the 'Normal' range on the dial. A freind and previous RV8 owner said his was like this aswell.
Thinking to get the radiator a good flush before using it properly, also as shown on the photo above I think I have 2 header tanks now as I think the filling cap on the radiator means that would be considered as the header tank? I'm wondering if I should remove the previous header tank, this would make the routing of pipes easier I believe.
The other thing I'm thinking about is fitting a lower temp thermostat, I've seen theres' lower temp thermostats available, any one had any experience of these?
First, figure out what the temp actually IS. A sub-tenner IR thermometer from eBay is your friend. Don't forget a temp gauge reading isn't exactly finely calibrated - it's really just comparing the resistance of the sender with the resistance needed to move a needle a bit. Change the sender, the needle may well read differently for the same temp.Thinking to get the radiator a good flush before using it properly, also as shown on the photo above I think I have 2 header tanks now as I think the filling cap on the radiator means that would be considered as the header tank? I'm wondering if I should remove the previous header tank, this would make the routing of pipes easier I believe.
The other thing I'm thinking about is fitting a lower temp thermostat, I've seen theres' lower temp thermostats available, any one had any experience of these?
Flushing the rad will only make a difference if the rad's a bit gunked up - in which case, you'll be seeing differing temperatures across the surface of it.
Putting a lower-temp 'stat in will only make a difference if the 'stat is what's holding the temp too high. If the stat's opening at 80deg, say, but the thing's running at 90, then the stat is irrelevant.
Not sure I'd be re-working the design of the cooling system until I understood it all a bit better - the expansion tanks may be there for a purpose. Or, of course, the guy who lobbed it together may be a clueless numpty who plumbed some random stuff in without understanding why...
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