IanH's 955hp V10 Audi RS6 - Another Car Diary!

[Sf_Manta]

Jeezus, those brakes really do fill out all of those 20in wheels.
What's the stopping power like now? must be a case of having to peel your eyeballs off the screen when those anchors are tossed out in a hurry.

Love the car

[Butter Face]

Fantastic. Those brakes are something special!!

[chuntington101]

On the intercooling front, have you considered spraying the intercoolers with water? This is an old trick to make them more effiective. Might be worth looking into even though the current setup (with water injection) is working very well.

[likesachange]

These big powerful cars arent to be questioned. My F10 M5 suprises me everytime how well it handles the extra power and near 2000kgs.... imagine this rs6 will be awesome with its great upgrades

[Smokey32]

Haha this is awesome. Loving the brake porn as well.

[IanH755]

Thanks for the comments folks!

chuntington101 said:

On the intercooling front, have you considered spraying the intercoolers with water?

It's a good idea if you have temps issues when driving but, as my only issue is at stand still, the water spray wouldn't be as effective compared to driving use. Once you're moving and have airflow through the IC fins, the heat soak drops in around 30 seconds at 40mph (looking at my logged intake temps) so, as it's a very "situational" issue (no air flow for around 3-5 mins then straight onto full throttle), I'm not sure I can justify the extra costs involved with an I/C spraybar.

[SlimJim16v]

Just found this thread today

[samoht]

Love the box arches on these, the nod back to the original Quattro really sets them apart from your standard salesman Audi, very cool. Impressive how well it seems to be coping with so much extra power over standard, too.

[IanH755]

The engines the strongest part of the car, the extra power is now finding all the cars weakspots now which seems to be mainly drive line but I'm very surprised that, after 8k miles of daily driving with full throttle at least twice a day, nothing more has "gone wrong" other than a rear diff so far, I was expecting it to be the driveshafts personally.

The other issues like DRC suspension/arms are age related rather than power.

Edited by IanH755 on Monday 12th September 21:24

[Dr G]

IanH755 said:

Thanks for the comments folks!

chuntington101 said:

On the intercooling front, have you considered spraying the intercoolers with water?

It's a good idea if you have temps issues when driving but, as my only issue is at stand still, the water spray wouldn't be as effective compared to driving use. Once you're moving and have airflow through the IC fins, the heat soak drops in around 30 seconds at 40mph (looking at my logged intake temps) so, as it's a very "situational" issue (no air flow for around 3-5 mins then straight onto full throttle), I'm not sure I can justify the extra costs involved with an I/C spraybar.

Presumably this is why you see the standing mile type drag-racers attacking their intercoolers with nitrous bottles before a run...

[IanH755]

Dr G - Yeap, as well as purging the nitrous lines of any gas it's also extremely cold (-88'c) which cools down the IC's much more effectively than static water can. You can also see them using a CO2 extinguisher as well which is a cheaper method.

Santa Pod etc also say that IC water sprays aren't allowed as it leaves the start line wet.

---

One from the Pistonheads Sunday Service at Brands Hatch. Some really cool cars there inc the Aston Martin DB7 next to me, a Renault 5GT Turbo 2, Jaguar XJ220 and the new Aerial Nomad to name a few -

Edited by IanH755 on Tuesday 13th September 09:10

[xjay1337]

Read through the whole thread.

A lot of work into this, probably exactly how I'd have built if had I been lucky enough to own such a car!

Looks awesome and goes awesome too... I want a ride :-)

[weeboot]

IanH755 said:

Dr G - Yeap, as well as purging the nitrous lines of any gas it's also extremely cold (-88'c) which cools down the IC's much more effectively than static water can. You can also see them using a CO2 extinguisher as well which is a cheaper method.

Santa Pod etc also say that IC water sprays aren't allowed as it leaves the start line wet.

Methanol injection in the intake tract to use evaporative cooling is another method..

[xjay1337]

Plenty of information on water meth injection. I would go down that route.
You will always get heat soak eventually on air to air coolers. You can help avoid by painting black. But gains are minimal at best, theoretical at worst.

Using WMI during cool down should mean when you have stopped you'll get some extra time before temps creep up again however on the roll with meth , it won't be a problem.

However it needs to be mapped in appropriately.

[IanH755]

weeboot said:

Methanol injection in the intake tract to use evaporative cooling is another method..

Yeap, I'm already doing that using a 50/50 mix. I go through about 5L in 1000-1500 miles depending on how much full throttle I use (tends to be alot )

[weeboot]

IanH755 said:

weeboot said:

Methanol injection in the intake tract to use evaporative cooling is another method..

Yeap, I'm already doing that using a 50/50 mix. I go through about 5L in 1000-1500 miles depending on how much full throttle I use (tends to be alot )

Looking at the IAT trace on a heavily boosted, methanol burning, big block, street legal, drag car was entertaining.
Started sub ambient and actually got cooler throughout the pass.

[chuntington101]

weeboot said:

IanH755 said:

weeboot said:

Methanol injection in the intake tract to use evaporative cooling is another method..

Yeap, I'm already doing that using a 50/50 mix. I go through about 5L in 1000-1500 miles depending on how much full throttle I use (tends to be alot )

Looking at the IAT trace on a heavily boosted, methanol burning, big block, street legal, drag car was entertaining.
Started sub ambient and actually got cooler throughout the pass.

That's the great thing about using methanol as a primary fuel on a drag car. You can ditch all the heavy intercooler stuff and package things much better! IATs aren't a worry as you are spraying that much fuel, and it burns so cool, that there is no point running intercooling.

[Dominick_b5RS]

Hi Ian a couple of questions from a fellow rs6 owner only a humble stage two car though.

Firstly I know you and Tom talk about your motivation for the AP upgrade being a way of reducing brake fade but what I would like to know is as well as reducing fade does it improve pedal feel, braking power/ stopping distance, pedal travel and modulation? Also I find the standard steels rather unconfidence inspiring did this improve with the AP 6 pots?

Is your car lowerd?

Now you have lived with the updated anti roll bars how do you find them?

Thanks

[IanH755]

Hi Dominick, I'll break down the answers separately as they're quite long -

1. AP Callipers - The pedal now has a very "2-stage" feel with a softer 1st stage being adequate for day to day and a much harder 2nd stage when you really want to slow down quickly. The 1st stage feels like the OEM calliper did but the 2nd stage is a much firmer pedal feel compared to the OEM feel. It's caught me out a few times as my muscle memory is still adjusting so I found myself over-braking quite a bit for a few weeks. For clarity I also swapped fluid from ATE Superblue to Castrol SRF and swapped from OEM rubber hoses to HEL braided at the same time so how much extra pedal "firmness" is purely calliper I can't say. As to stopping "power" I find the tyres are reaching their grip limits much more quickly than with my OEM calliper/AP 390mm disc/Ferodo DS2500 setup. However the initial bedding in was much worse due to the new AP DS25 pads gassing off massively and giving no braking force after 5-6 80mph-10mph stops where it would brake to 40mph and then there was nothing, just a solid pedal and no brakes. However once through that, by 8-9 stops, the gassing off was complete and the brakes were amazing!

2. OEM Discs/pads/callipers - OEM discs are garbage for fast road use unless the backing plates are swapped for the Phaeton ducted versions when they become "adequate" at best. They are a massive heat sink with no OEM cooling so they overheat rapidly, hence adding the phaeton duct. If you like to drive quickly then I urge you in the strongest possible way to fit the 390mm AP discs with better fluid (ATE Superblue/Type200, Motul RBF600, AP Radi-cal R4, Castrol SRF etc). They are nearly 4kg lighter per disc, made of much better material and are properly cooled by their internal fins. The AP discs are £800 initially and then £600 when needing replacing as the £100 hat per side is only bought once. The OEM Pads are fine but can definitely be improved with either Ferodo DS2500's for £200 or Pagid RS29's if you can stomach the £500 cost! The OEM callipers are fantastic and are the strongest part of the OEM setup, they can take much more abuse than I managed to give them but they're limited to 405mm max disc size.

3. Lowered - Nope, KW do a really nice set of adjustable springs but the lack of adjustable upper arms means the increased camber can't be corrected leading to worn tyres.

4. H&R ARB's - Definitely made the car feel stiffer. If you imagine the 3 DRC settings as numbers 1-2-3 (Comfort-Dynamic-Sport) then the cars now feels like 1.5-2.5-3.5. I drive mine everyday in Dynamic mode and it now feels like a halfway point between Dynamic and Sport which I'm happy with. They have "almost" dialled out the post apex nose push but I've found a better driving technique to sort out my under-steer instead and the new forward brake bias is allowing the lighter rear to swing out more easily giving a sharper turn in which feels fairly flat considering the 2+ ton weight shift. I really need to get some track time now I'm happy with the brakes just to give them a good session, Tom already has 2 under his belt now so I'm playing catch-up

Hope that helps.................................Ian

[IanH755]

The garage which carried out my brake work posted a pic of my new AP 410mm discs vs the old AP 390mm ones they took off which had been cooked by a mix of several trackdays and then 5 months of 900hp - I don't think they are supposed to look like that