BMW Z3 2.8 - OEM+ long term project
Discussion
Podie said:
Hey 5harp3y - any updates?picked up some of my all time favourite wheels for an absolute bargain.
They need to be repainted as the lacquer has gone yellow but they are Genuine, forged, perfect z3 fitment and bloody awesome.
My new gearknob had a few problems
it is a 6 speed
it needed recovering
enter ebay and some Scuffmaster black and a new button for the top from Lithunia (genuine bmw part)
Much better
other than that i've been driving it lots, and putting a new battery in it as it went really weak on me
and then we added this to the fleet for the wife.
Great thread!
Lovely car and good choices on the resto modding. I used to have a Z3m roadster and evryone always used to mention the handling (nobody who had actually driven one mind!) I would say it handled far better than my E36 M3.
Would like to say caution with the Powerflex stuff, I did the lollipops and it made a huge difference. Then did a few more and it ruined the car. Chassis was stiff, but the body was still wobbly, horrible feeling on anything other than a completely flat smooth road.
Lovely car and good choices on the resto modding. I used to have a Z3m roadster and evryone always used to mention the handling (nobody who had actually driven one mind!) I would say it handled far better than my E36 M3.
Would like to say caution with the Powerflex stuff, I did the lollipops and it made a huge difference. Then did a few more and it ruined the car. Chassis was stiff, but the body was still wobbly, horrible feeling on anything other than a completely flat smooth road.
L9 GTE said:
Great thread!
Lovely car and good choices on the resto modding. I used to have a Z3m roadster and evryone always used to mention the handling (nobody who had actually driven one mind!) I would say it handled far better than my E36 M3.
Would like to say caution with the Powerflex stuff, I did the lollipops and it made a huge difference. Then did a few more and it ruined the car. Chassis was stiff, but the body was still wobbly, horrible feeling on anything other than a completely flat smooth road.
thank you, i've done the full polybushing thing before and didnt enjoy it but just doing a select few on this. Lovely car and good choices on the resto modding. I used to have a Z3m roadster and evryone always used to mention the handling (nobody who had actually driven one mind!) I would say it handled far better than my E36 M3.
Would like to say caution with the Powerflex stuff, I did the lollipops and it made a huge difference. Then did a few more and it ruined the car. Chassis was stiff, but the body was still wobbly, horrible feeling on anything other than a completely flat smooth road.
Busy weekend! Decided to tackle a load of outstanding jobs and treat some rust.
Saturday.
Replaced the diff bush with a poweflex item, good god was it a pain to do. Exhaust off (from the mid section) and then lower the diff down enough to bastardise the rubber bush so that it comes out, hacksaw the metal ring and hammer and punch it out.
After about 2 hours doing that the new one went in in 3 seconds flat!
as you can see the rear antiroll bar is a relic from the titanic so i whipped that off to treat the rust and replace the bushes
top tip, a 3 pointed gear puller whips the old drop links off easily.
KURUST doing its job
then after it dried i applied some por15 and left it overnight
rettattached the exhaust so that i could move the car back into the garage without blowing my ears to pieces but i think ive not done it right as its blowing slightly.
SUNDAY
new Meyle drop links were pressed on using a vice, i can't see another way of doing it to be honest as it needs some serious effort
new clamps and OEM rubber bushes
then i tackled the gearbox mounts which i had seen before were quite soft, i had some Revshift 80a poly mounts to put in.
this might be the easiest job on the car
car on stands
support gearbox with trolley jack
undo 4 x 13mm gearbox cross member bolts
loosen 2 x 13mm mount bolts
slide off the mount
repeat in reverse
Saturday.
Replaced the diff bush with a poweflex item, good god was it a pain to do. Exhaust off (from the mid section) and then lower the diff down enough to bastardise the rubber bush so that it comes out, hacksaw the metal ring and hammer and punch it out.
After about 2 hours doing that the new one went in in 3 seconds flat!
as you can see the rear antiroll bar is a relic from the titanic so i whipped that off to treat the rust and replace the bushes
top tip, a 3 pointed gear puller whips the old drop links off easily.
KURUST doing its job
then after it dried i applied some por15 and left it overnight
rettattached the exhaust so that i could move the car back into the garage without blowing my ears to pieces but i think ive not done it right as its blowing slightly.
SUNDAY
new Meyle drop links were pressed on using a vice, i can't see another way of doing it to be honest as it needs some serious effort
new clamps and OEM rubber bushes
then i tackled the gearbox mounts which i had seen before were quite soft, i had some Revshift 80a poly mounts to put in.
this might be the easiest job on the car
car on stands
support gearbox with trolley jack
undo 4 x 13mm gearbox cross member bolts
loosen 2 x 13mm mount bolts
slide off the mount
repeat in reverse
RUST removal
my sill covers and front wings are quite bad, most of the underside of my car looks like its beein under the sea! (it lived its life in Great Yarmouth up until i had it)
so before i repalce the sills (i already have new wings to go on) i thought i'd whip them off to check the rust and make sure there is nothing serious going on
its not hard to do but there are a millions screws
whilst i was there and the arch trims were off i cleaned the arches
50/50
i wonder why this area rusts!!!!!!
so erm yeah, front corner isnt great!
rear corner is better and the whole length isnt rusted
so out came the abrasives on the drill and all of the rust taken back to bare or seasoned metal which took about an hour
the ends were then coated with POR15 chassis black
the cavities were sprayed with Bilt Hamber Dynax s50 ( http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...)
this stuff is the nuts, proper coverage, massive can and a lance.
i'll do the passenger side this week (no where near as bad)
my sill covers and front wings are quite bad, most of the underside of my car looks like its beein under the sea! (it lived its life in Great Yarmouth up until i had it)
so before i repalce the sills (i already have new wings to go on) i thought i'd whip them off to check the rust and make sure there is nothing serious going on
its not hard to do but there are a millions screws
whilst i was there and the arch trims were off i cleaned the arches
50/50
i wonder why this area rusts!!!!!!
so erm yeah, front corner isnt great!
rear corner is better and the whole length isnt rusted
so out came the abrasives on the drill and all of the rust taken back to bare or seasoned metal which took about an hour
the ends were then coated with POR15 chassis black
the cavities were sprayed with Bilt Hamber Dynax s50 ( http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...)
this stuff is the nuts, proper coverage, massive can and a lance.
i'll do the passenger side this week (no where near as bad)
Thank you
so really quick lunchtime update. my facelift console update wasnt complete as i was waiting on a roof switch. got one off ebay for £10 and then went to fit it.
the connectors are different but all you need to do is trim a small piece of plastic off using a craft knife. the wiring is the same
console is now complete!
FYI s
t carbon wrap is on its way out as a chap in Bulgaria is doing me a real carbon version!
so really quick lunchtime update. my facelift console update wasnt complete as i was waiting on a roof switch. got one off ebay for £10 and then went to fit it.
the connectors are different but all you need to do is trim a small piece of plastic off using a craft knife. the wiring is the same
console is now complete!
FYI s
t carbon wrap is on its way out as a chap in Bulgaria is doing me a real carbon version! 
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