BMW Z3 2.8 - OEM+ long term project

[5harp3y]

Vince70 said:

I just wondered how long did it take for your seat base kit to arrive from America as I'm still waiting for mine..

Edited by Vince70 on Thursday 29th October 07:46

about 10 days

[vsonix]

Vince70 said:

If your cars are low mileage or don't get much use it's worth cleaning out the idle control valve and getting a new PCV valve (only about £10) as it makes the car drive so much smoother and rev better plus I'm sure my fuel consumption has improved.

Both my daily E36 and Z3 get very little use and are low mileage cars and the 3 series' never seemed to rev right even after a service and the idle speed was a tad high..

I've just cleaned out the throttle body with a bit of autoglym and stripped down the idle control valve (supposed to be a sealed unit) and gave it a good clean with cotton buds and carb cleaner and cleaned out the PCV valve but I will be changing it once the new one arrives, and its transformed And I'm amazed at the difference it's made.

I will say though change the idle control valve bolts for some nice stainless steel Allen key bolts and give the thread a smear of copper slick as it makes life so much easier to get back off in future.

I just wondered how long did it take for your seat base kit to arrive from America as I'm still waiting for mine..

Edited by Vince70 on Thursday 29th October 07:46

I always just soak my ICV in isopropyl alcohol and use cotton buds, gets it clean as a whistle, doesn't seem worth dismantling it.

[5harp3y]

MOT ........

Failed

But only a few things!

Front Shock gone
Front wishbone bushes gone (suspected this)

Advisories were

Rear shocks misting
Front springs corroded

So ... bit of a spend up today.

Bilstein B4s (Front and Rear)
Eibach 30mm lowering springs
Meyle HD Rear Topmounts
Lemforder Front top mounts
Nuts and bolts and gaskets from BMW
Powerflex wishbone bushes

all to get through a bloody MOT! at least it will do ALL the work needed to get it through

Small update on what feels like the longest process ever.

After the car failed the MOT i decided i was going to do things properly and repalce everything it needed with brand new.

So afer waiting for demon tweeks to deliver some shocks (3 weeks!!!!) i am still waiting on all the hardware from BMW as it appears to be lost in the post!

Have managed to do a couple of bits this weekend.

Under supervision from Pickles:



After 3 hours a side of swearing and a sheared bolt (inside the car!!!!!!) i have powerflext polybushed wishbone lollipops.





hopefully this weekend i'll be able to swap out the rear shocks and springs and then do the fronts when my hardware turns up.

So, nicely productive night last night.

I've ordered brand new bolts and gaskets etc from BMW and we've had a bit of a mare getting them to me as the postoffice lost the parcel for a week.

mark and the guys at Soper Parts Lincoln have been amazing and offered super levels of service. Royal mail cocked up, but the parts arrived at last and i was able to build up the front shocks in preparation for slotting them in on the weekend.

One thing to note when using Lemforder top mounts si that the recess for the top nut is tiny .... this wouldnt be a problem with standard 21mm top nut but the bilsteins use a 22mm nut!!!!! which means a impact socket / lambda socket doesnt fit.

i had to use a really old 22mm socket i had (which was thinner walled than modern stuff) and some mole grips to tighten down the topmount. not ideal, but it worked.



best of the best



few of the spares, all brand new and proper brands, FEBI, Lemforder, MeyleHD etc



All built up with brand new BMW hardware.

One thing i love about this set up is that it looks so stock.

hopefully get them on this weekend along with the rears.

[Joyceyboy]

You've done the hard work the rest is a doddle, just make sure you have a breaker bar for the hub nuts.

P.S get this up on the zed forum.

Lee

[5harp3y]

Joyceyboy said:

You've done the hard work the rest is a doddle, just make sure you have a breaker bar for the hub nuts.

P.S get this up on the zed forum.

Lee

got some big breakers and a windy gun it it gets really hard.

which zed forum, i'm on Zroadster.org

[vsonix]

Don't suppose you have a handy list of the part numbers for all the various gaskets etc you used? I'm about to do the same to my Z. The B4/Eibach combo should be good, I have them on my E36 coupe and it's definitely a nice firm yet comfy setup. I am thinking of going a bit more upmarket on the Z though, either the next level up with the shocks or maybe going for some fully-adjustable coilover setup, and polybusing the whole thing at the same time as I can definitely feel that most of the bushes are nearing if not past the end of their useful lifespan.

[ethomas]

5harp3y said:

All built up with brand new BMW hardware.

One thing i love about this set up is that it looks so stock.

hopefully get them on this weekend along with the rears.

I did exactly this on my E46 a couple of weeks ago, except with Sachs sport dampers in place of B4, and meyle HD bushes all round (fitted new bushes, control arms, and rear shocks about a month earlier). It is a lovely feeling to build up new strut towers with all new bits, and it makes fitting them a doddle. I had the same problem as you with the shock nut, ended up using my normal 12 point socket in my impact wrench to get everything tight. Not the smartest idea but it worked out and saved a lot of faffing about.

The hardest part of fitting the new shock was getting enough clearance so that the old shock would come out nicely. On one side of the car a couple of well positioned kicks were needed before the bugger would pop out. Getting it back in is a lot easier if you put a jack under the steering knuckle and use that to lift the arm. Make sure that the alignment studs in the shock are in the right place, and make sure you don't catch the skin of your thumb between the stud and the clamp when the strut "pops" into place

The difference with mine was incredible. Mismatched springs at the back and mismatched shocks at the front (one had 130k miles on it, one was newer but still pretty shagged), with rattle top mounts, replaced with lovely new things. One of the best value improvements you can do on these cars!

[5harp3y]

vsonix said:

Don't suppose you have a handy list of the part numbers for all the various gaskets etc you used? I'm about to do the same to my Z. The B4/Eibach combo should be good, I have them on my E36 coupe and it's definitely a nice firm yet comfy setup. I am thinking of going a bit more upmarket on the Z though, either the next level up with the shocks or maybe going for some fully-adjustable coilover setup, and polybusing the whole thing at the same time as I can definitely feel that most of the bushes are nearing if not past the end of their useful lifespan.

I wouldnt bother with coilovers unless you want to spend serious money.

B6 / B8s with eibachs would be a great next step.

meyle HD lower arms with polybush rear bushes would be a nice setup on the front

here are the parts you need for the front strut, get the topmounts from GSF / ECP as they are half the price of BMW (lemforder)

Part Number Description Qty Required
1125916 Washer, 15 2
1110196 DUST PROTECTION COLLAR 2
6776760 Washer, 37X2,5MM ZNS3 2
1135580 Upper spring plate 2
1128523 SPRING PAD UPPER, 3MM 2
1090479 SPRING PAD LOWER 2
1094288 WASHER-GASKET 2
1136465 Hex Bolt w/ Washer 4
9905853 Fit bolt, M12X42 2
9905753 Self-locking hex nut, M12-10-ZNS3 2
9903156 Hex Bolt, M12X1,5X70 ZNS 2

[5harp3y]

ethomas said:

5harp3y said:

All built up with brand new BMW hardware.

One thing i love about this set up is that it looks so stock.

hopefully get them on this weekend along with the rears.

I did exactly this on my E46 a couple of weeks ago, except with Sachs sport dampers in place of B4, and meyle HD bushes all round (fitted new bushes, control arms, and rear shocks about a month earlier). It is a lovely feeling to build up new strut towers with all new bits, and it makes fitting them a doddle. I had the same problem as you with the shock nut, ended up using my normal 12 point socket in my impact wrench to get everything tight. Not the smartest idea but it worked out and saved a lot of faffing about.

The hardest part of fitting the new shock was getting enough clearance so that the old shock would come out nicely. On one side of the car a couple of well positioned kicks were needed before the bugger would pop out. Getting it back in is a lot easier if you put a jack under the steering knuckle and use that to lift the arm. Make sure that the alignment studs in the shock are in the right place, and make sure you don't catch the skin of your thumb between the stud and the clamp when the strut "pops" into place

The difference with mine was incredible. Mismatched springs at the back and mismatched shocks at the front (one had 130k miles on it, one was newer but still pretty shagged), with rattle top mounts, replaced with lovely new things. One of the best value improvements you can do on these cars!

Thanks for the advice, duly noted!

so far i have noticed that i have different shocks / springs and bushes side to side. one shock registered a -7 at the MOT and can easily be compressed by hand! scary stuff

[5harp3y]

Its finally done! Few hours on saturday and sunday and the suspension is on!

rears in place (handy hint, remove the rear ARB dogbone makes everything a doddle)

fronts in (those 18mm bolts are flipping tough)

New Meyle HD droplinks

condition of the old stuff (all BMW so might be original bits)
also swapped out a broken foglight


looks like its been under the sea!
whilst i was under the car i noticed that i had a small opil leak coming from here, does anyone know whats leaking? Vanos unit?

[ethomas]

5harp3y said:

Its finally done! Few hours on saturday and sunday and the suspension is on!
whilst i was under the car i noticed that i had a small opil leak coming from here, does anyone know whats leaking? Vanos unit?

Congratulations, how does it drive now? That oil leak could be the oil line to the vanos unit (vanos itself rarely leaks), but on that side it is more likely to be the valve cover gasket I think. Oil filter housing is the other common suspect but that is the other side of the engine.

[5harp3y]

ethomas said:

Congratulations, how does it drive now? That oil leak could be the oil line to the vanos unit (vanos itself rarely leaks), but on that side it is more likely to be the valve cover gasket I think. Oil filter housing is the other common suspect but that is the other side of the engine.

Only been around the block so far (car has no MOT) feels firm but compliant, hasnt settled fully yet.

MOT this week hopefully then some hooning to bed the suspension in!

thanks for the advice. i'll get some of the plastics off this week and have a poke around

[Jhonno]

NiceCupOfTea said:

I've never understood the hate for these.

Supposedly:

Z3 handling - woeful
e30 handling - best thing since sliced bread

Same rear end isn't it?

Near enough the same yes..

[5harp3y]

Jhonno said:

NiceCupOfTea said:

I've never understood the hate for these.

Supposedly:

Z3 handling - woeful
e30 handling - best thing since sliced bread

Same rear end isn't it?

Near enough the same yes..

Same nearly, but the z3 doesnt have a roof so isn't ever going to be sharp as the E30. Not that 99.9% of people on the road can exploit a car to its full potential popping to sainsburys.

[Jhonno]

Liking this project btw.. I have been tempted by a Z3 myself, but I like having the practical 320d Touring to smoke about in.

[5harp3y]

So took it down to the garage to have the snapped bolt out, 3 hours later at £140 lighter its finished and MOT'd for another year. Its takena while to get it back on the road due to wanting to do the work myself, however, its back and the weather this weekend was amazing!

took it out for its first proper drive on the new suspension, wow, its like night and day to the old worn out rubbish. Not too harsh and not stupid low so no worries around town.

gave it a clean too!

pickles gave me a hand

[rohrl]

You're very lucky to have such a useful helper as Pickles.

[5harp3y]

Without having much time i decided to jump in a do a few jobs that have been bugging me.

Slow and steady wins the race.

First was to replace the rear exaust rubber as it was saggy as can be. i replaced it with an adjustable driftworks item as it is reinforced. Easiest job in the world, rear wheel off, rubber off, rubber on.



Then i removed the CD changer, i dont use it, it doesnt have a cassette anyway and i dont like looking at it everytime i open the boot.

its in the for sale section should anyone need one. (Cheap)

Next i tackled the aerial grommet which was green and crumbly.

Sopers of Lincoln came up trumps and supplied the rubber (£6) be careful when ordering as different years use differnt rubbers.

Process is:

Unscrew aerial
Nearside boot carpet out ( 2 x fasteners)
Unbolt hydraulic pump (makes it sooooo much easier) 2 x 13mm nuts iirc
Move pump out of the way
Unbolt aerial 1 x 10mm nut.

Then you have to wiggle from the bottom and push from the top. TOP TIP use the wheel removal rod to push down from above.

remove the grommet and lose it inbetween the panels as i did to rattle around in the rear wing for eternity.

repeat in reverse to put the new grommet in.







its a citreon stubby aerial FYI

Next job was to tackle this, and to be honest it was one of the things that really put me off the car.



New screen from eBay (£80)



Pickles came to help, but in the end i needed my wife to offer a second pair of hands. it took about an hour. Its a bit of a pain to do but only as you have to try and do it from inside the car with the roll hoops in the way.



et voila



Defo worth doing at home

In parrallel to all of this i had removed all the boot carpet (dead easy) and taken it into the bath for a wash. Some bio washing powder and some hot water and it was all brand spankers.



so busy saturday.

Loads more to do but im super up for it.

[Podie]

Looking good.

Nice to see Pickles offering wisdom.

[e21Mark]

Devil's in the details. Looks great.