slammed air ride Scimitar with Lexus V8 1UZFE
Discussion
Flipping the bottom mounts lowers the car 3 inches, so just had to raise the top mount 3 inches to match.
That’s a nice easy 3 inch drop for free! Still plenty of work to do, may also have to raise the rack and anti-roll bar mounts.
The damper top mounts also have to be raised, but all looks straight forward to do.
Interesting view inside the towers after the top mount was cut off.
I plan to fit the top damper mount on some box section and slide it inside the tower this will be bolted and welded.
Most of the jobs kind of get worked out on the fly as they unfold and find solutions when you see want you have to work with…..
That’s a nice easy 3 inch drop for free! Still plenty of work to do, may also have to raise the rack and anti-roll bar mounts.
The damper top mounts also have to be raised, but all looks straight forward to do.
Interesting view inside the towers after the top mount was cut off.
I plan to fit the top damper mount on some box section and slide it inside the tower this will be bolted and welded.
Most of the jobs kind of get worked out on the fly as they unfold and find solutions when you see want you have to work with…..
Edited by s1v8esprit on Friday 25th September 23:58
Edited by s1v8esprit on Friday 25th September 23:59
I had a pretty scary day yesterday just nicked an artery in my arm and had blood coming out like a fountain! was just using a hammer and chisel and the chisel just hit my arm when it fell out of my hand? very small cut but looked really horrible at the moment in time! I don't like the sight of my own blood and nearly passed out........all fine now after a couple of hours with a bandage wrapped around it stopped bleeding and looking at my arm now its hard to see how such a small cut could have caused so much blood!
Tony427 said:
There are a number of short stumpy oil filters that will fit and leave enough room for the chassis thereby saving you some cash paying for the remote oil cooler kit and perhaps more importantly space as it may well be a bit tight.
What are you doing about the OEM water to oil, oil cooler collar that the original oil filter sits in. Will you also be adding a remore oil cooler as well as a filter.
A stumpy oil filter, Toyota shopping car or Renauly 5 type, seems to make sense rather than a whole load of additional gubbins.
Cheers,
Tony
no room for a short filter less than a 2 inch gap! now I have the engine lowered and in position so has to be remote, even if I notched the chassis would be no good as its direct in line with the lower suspension bracket. Mine is an early engine and does not have the water cooled collar. Not keen on the remote but dont see any other way other than cutting and shorten the housing I have and have it welded up again? that's not going to be cheap either? What are you doing about the OEM water to oil, oil cooler collar that the original oil filter sits in. Will you also be adding a remore oil cooler as well as a filter.
A stumpy oil filter, Toyota shopping car or Renauly 5 type, seems to make sense rather than a whole load of additional gubbins.
Cheers,
Tony
Progress has been slow lately due to no spare time and rain!
I have tried the rear axle with the chassis flat on the floor and had to notch some clearance for the diff.
The front has worked out fine with the 4 inch drop and could go lower but the main chassis rails are grounded as I wanted,
this has now shown up the outriggers are higher so don’t ground out how I had envisioned which is a little disappointing……….
The alternator also just will not fit even with the towers cut back so that’s going in front of the engine and maybe on a jack shaft.
I could try and find another smaller item but that’s still going to take time and money and still may not fit either?
Notching the front beam and moving the engine has also allowed enough clearance for the gearbox to fit inside the main rails just fine.
Keeping 14 inch wheels and 55 profile tyres work well and look ok in the arch when slammed.
Lots of work still to do but its getting done and most of its working out ok?
I have tried the rear axle with the chassis flat on the floor and had to notch some clearance for the diff.
The front has worked out fine with the 4 inch drop and could go lower but the main chassis rails are grounded as I wanted,
this has now shown up the outriggers are higher so don’t ground out how I had envisioned which is a little disappointing……….
The alternator also just will not fit even with the towers cut back so that’s going in front of the engine and maybe on a jack shaft.
I could try and find another smaller item but that’s still going to take time and money and still may not fit either?
Notching the front beam and moving the engine has also allowed enough clearance for the gearbox to fit inside the main rails just fine.
Keeping 14 inch wheels and 55 profile tyres work well and look ok in the arch when slammed.
Lots of work still to do but its getting done and most of its working out ok?
Apologies for the radio silence, personal life has been a bit hectic.
Lack of time, bad weather, lack of funds, and lacking any enthusiasm to get back into working on cars has been a struggle. The Mind has been willing but my body just said no!
The engine is too big to fit inside the inner wings, and also the bulkhead, and transmission tunnel had to say goodbye. It’s a possible fit if I was happy with the ride height but I am not.
Lack of time, bad weather, lack of funds, and lacking any enthusiasm to get back into working on cars has been a struggle. The Mind has been willing but my body just said no!
The engine is too big to fit inside the inner wings, and also the bulkhead, and transmission tunnel had to say goodbye. It’s a possible fit if I was happy with the ride height but I am not.
Lowering the rear axle as low as it will go in the chassis rails is just not getting down as low as I want. All of this chassis sections is going to have to be reworked to allow at least another couple of inches of drop.
Here you can see the difference in the centre chassis rails and body and out rigger heights highlighted with red arrow.
Major hassle now to get the look I want I need to lower the body on the chassis by maybe 3 - 4 inches. That’s not going to work with the Lexus V8 engine as it’s on the limits of only just fitting under the bonnet. The sump is already flush with the chassis so lowering it anymore is just not possible. 14 inch wheels are not going to work either they look too small in the rear arch. So going for bigger diameter wheels even with low profile tyres will increase the overall height again so will have to lower it more!
So keep it as is and be disappointed with not getting it as low as I wanted or change the engine.
Anyone know of a compact low height engine? V6 is the smallest I would want to go with.
Here you can see the difference in the centre chassis rails and body and out rigger heights highlighted with red arrow.
Major hassle now to get the look I want I need to lower the body on the chassis by maybe 3 - 4 inches. That’s not going to work with the Lexus V8 engine as it’s on the limits of only just fitting under the bonnet. The sump is already flush with the chassis so lowering it anymore is just not possible. 14 inch wheels are not going to work either they look too small in the rear arch. So going for bigger diameter wheels even with low profile tyres will increase the overall height again so will have to lower it more!
So keep it as is and be disappointed with not getting it as low as I wanted or change the engine.
Anyone know of a compact low height engine? V6 is the smallest I would want to go with.
Speed 3 said:
Break something like this ?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
Not sure if you were after manual box, assumed the Lexus V8 was auto
that's interesting! going to drop the body on the chassis and get the ride height sorted first and see what room is left, but that could be a possible way forwardhttp://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...
Not sure if you were after manual box, assumed the Lexus V8 was auto
Oi_Oi_Savaloy said:
I agree with RXE. Got to be worth a look surely.
I know you've already stated you don't feel comfortable about the remote oil reservoir but look; you've already got the engine and I think a remote oil reservoir could be viable.
The only other boxer engines that spring to mind are the 4 cylinder beatle or subaru stuff. But they aren't v6's of course.
as far as I remember the bellhousing is level with the sump so dry sumpimg may not gain little, been looking at changing the inlet manifold as its very big and ugly! but subaru do indeed do a v6 as pointed out in above post so that's another optionI know you've already stated you don't feel comfortable about the remote oil reservoir but look; you've already got the engine and I think a remote oil reservoir could be viable.
The only other boxer engines that spring to mind are the 4 cylinder beatle or subaru stuff. But they aren't v6's of course.
TEKNOPUG said:
I'd suggest a boxer engine too but what you lose in height, you gain in width. Something pushrod may be better, as suggested. If you read PPC, you'll have seen that they are putting a supercharged Jag V8 in a Scimitar but I suspect that they don't have the same height requirements as you.
Yeah I did hear about that it will never get finished. They also had a project Lotus Esprit was making loads of fuss over putting a V8 in that, it never got done.Got some more work done today, got the outriggers cut off.
I looked into maybe cutting the body around the floor and lowering it but it won’t work, the bulkhead is tapered and also the hinge pillar and other parts won’t lower due to angles and extra sections. The only way is to lower the complete floor and just leave the centre tunnel intact. The outriggers are shot so no big deal was going to have to cut and weld new sections anyway so might as well cut them all out and lower them equal to the center rails. Just a quick mock up to see how it all fits.
Body is now able to go to the ground so the cill can touch the floor.
Engine clearance is not as bad as I thought may get away with a bulge in the bonnet. I know its hard to see in this picture with all the loom in place but its certainly not as bad as I had pictured it would be so its still in with a chance of staying put and being the power plant for the build.
I looked into maybe cutting the body around the floor and lowering it but it won’t work, the bulkhead is tapered and also the hinge pillar and other parts won’t lower due to angles and extra sections. The only way is to lower the complete floor and just leave the centre tunnel intact. The outriggers are shot so no big deal was going to have to cut and weld new sections anyway so might as well cut them all out and lower them equal to the center rails. Just a quick mock up to see how it all fits.
Body is now able to go to the ground so the cill can touch the floor.
Engine clearance is not as bad as I thought may get away with a bulge in the bonnet. I know its hard to see in this picture with all the loom in place but its certainly not as bad as I had pictured it would be so its still in with a chance of staying put and being the power plant for the build.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff