I can't help myself.. Citroen CX Prestige purchased!
Discussion
I got a chance to have a look at this at the weekend - first thing to check was the leak of LHM from the solid pipe on the brake circuit to the LH front
As you can see, plenty LHM was being flung aboot!
I decided to start at the top- disconnecting the flexi from the hard line
Despite being a 10mm union, rather than the usual 11mm, it came apart fine. I'll need to find out if it was leaking of if the LHM on the strut is down to the wheel slinging it about.
This 17mm held on the banjo bolt setup at the end of the pipe attached to the caliper -an odd set up with a locator pin.
The pipe itself is scrap - so I now need to source another. I didnt look for one previously as I wanted to be sure I could actually remove it before shelling out for a replacement.
Time to get a hunting!
PS- sorry for small pics- the uploader was odd this evening!Click and they will biggify
As you can see, plenty LHM was being flung aboot!
I decided to start at the top- disconnecting the flexi from the hard line
Despite being a 10mm union, rather than the usual 11mm, it came apart fine. I'll need to find out if it was leaking of if the LHM on the strut is down to the wheel slinging it about.
This 17mm held on the banjo bolt setup at the end of the pipe attached to the caliper -an odd set up with a locator pin.
The pipe itself is scrap - so I now need to source another. I didnt look for one previously as I wanted to be sure I could actually remove it before shelling out for a replacement.
Time to get a hunting!
PS- sorry for small pics- the uploader was odd this evening!Click and they will biggify
Edited by 320touring on Monday 4th April 00:08
d" we'll be goldenI now finally have the CX somewhere dry, and resting on axle stands. Such comfort means that a proper strip down and review of this spaceship like machine can commence.
Where better to start than with something that should be familiar. What could be more straightforward than a caliper and brake lines?
First up, the 5 x 19mm wheel bolts were removed, and the completely solid wheel was removed. This is Citroen at its best – name the car after the French version of Cd (Coefficient of Drag), and then follow it through to the nth degree. A solid wheel causes significantly less air disturbance than one with spokes and holes. So much so, that the folks over on Ecomodder are prone to going out their way to re purpose pizza dishes in the pursuit of such advantage.
Immediately though, it should be obvious to seasoned spanner wielders that all was not well. As we had noticed when collecting the car back in October last year, the brake pipe was making a jolly good job of skooshing LHM about the joint.
Before we go any further, take a moment to digest what you are seeing here.
Bottom of the picture- a vented brake disc – so far, so normal.
But, wait a minute, does that flexi line come into a banjo fitting on the left hand side, leading to a solid pipe onto the Caliper? And the less said regarding the steering being connected to the caliper, the better.
We stopped for a cuppa at this point, and let it sink in. It became obvious that the best plan of attack was to remove the flexi and solid pipe to see what the lie of the land was.
This was a game of 2 halfs, the flexi came undone with no issues from top solid line, but was most stubborn in its refusal to detach from the banjo fitting.
We then turned our attention to the caliper solid pipe. It was not very good at all,
but thankfully the bolt loosened easily once the chemical metal was removed.
The small pipe into the banjo fitting was very brittle and broke straight away – so I’ll need to either source a 2nd hand one or work out how to reconstruct it.
So far, I need a Flexi and a new fixed line for the caliper.
Onto the Caliper/Disc and Pads – I intended to check their condition and see if anything was needed.
Retaining clip and locating pin removed, the pads slid out easily and appeared to be in great condition. Certainly, the brakes had given no real cause for alarm before, but it was nice to see that this side looked in good order.
I was also pleased to note the superb brake setup here- we have 4 piston calipers!
More to follow once I get the chance!
Where better to start than with something that should be familiar. What could be more straightforward than a caliper and brake lines?
First up, the 5 x 19mm wheel bolts were removed, and the completely solid wheel was removed. This is Citroen at its best – name the car after the French version of Cd (Coefficient of Drag), and then follow it through to the nth degree. A solid wheel causes significantly less air disturbance than one with spokes and holes. So much so, that the folks over on Ecomodder are prone to going out their way to re purpose pizza dishes in the pursuit of such advantage.
Immediately though, it should be obvious to seasoned spanner wielders that all was not well. As we had noticed when collecting the car back in October last year, the brake pipe was making a jolly good job of skooshing LHM about the joint.
Before we go any further, take a moment to digest what you are seeing here.
Bottom of the picture- a vented brake disc – so far, so normal.
But, wait a minute, does that flexi line come into a banjo fitting on the left hand side, leading to a solid pipe onto the Caliper? And the less said regarding the steering being connected to the caliper, the better.
We stopped for a cuppa at this point, and let it sink in. It became obvious that the best plan of attack was to remove the flexi and solid pipe to see what the lie of the land was.
This was a game of 2 halfs, the flexi came undone with no issues from top solid line, but was most stubborn in its refusal to detach from the banjo fitting.
We then turned our attention to the caliper solid pipe. It was not very good at all,
but thankfully the bolt loosened easily once the chemical metal was removed.
The small pipe into the banjo fitting was very brittle and broke straight away – so I’ll need to either source a 2nd hand one or work out how to reconstruct it.
So far, I need a Flexi and a new fixed line for the caliper.
Onto the Caliper/Disc and Pads – I intended to check their condition and see if anything was needed.
Retaining clip and locating pin removed, the pads slid out easily and appeared to be in great condition. Certainly, the brakes had given no real cause for alarm before, but it was nice to see that this side looked in good order.
I was also pleased to note the superb brake setup here- we have 4 piston calipers!
More to follow once I get the chance!
Fastdruid said:
TooMany2cvs said:
Fastdruid said:
Is the CX like the BX and has the handbrake working on the front calipers?
All hydraulic Citroens do, except the C5 and C6. It's because, as they sink, the wheelbase lengthens - trailing arm rear suspension. If you parked it with the handbrake on AND in gear, you'd be stressing the gearbox against the handbrake as it tried to go down.
TooMany2cvs said:
2cvs have front handbrakes, too, and they really are a doddle... Cables on a CX? Less so...
I have this theory that, somewhen back in the mists of time, a Citroen production engineer found out his missus was shagging a mechanic. Ever since then, revenge has been sought.
I imagine you are no too far from the truth!I have this theory that, somewhen back in the mists of time, a Citroen production engineer found out his missus was shagging a mechanic. Ever since then, revenge has been sought.
the handbrake appears to work on my cx so is not being touched
TooMany2cvs said:
That, in itself, is a minor miracle. They're usually a part of MOT prep... They go out of adjustment VERY easily - the eccentrics are just nipped-up by the centre bolts, and can and do rotate, taking the pads (tiny) out of adjustment very easily.
Thanks for that- will store it away in my "useful cx info" part of my brainGood things must come to an end, and so it was that we got word that one of our units would no longer be available to us.
Bad news on the one hand, but positive on the other.
First up was a raid out of all the accumulated detritus that one manifests over time – half worn brake pads, used engine oil and that sort of thing. Some were destined for the Bakey (Dump), and others for transportation to a new and glorious shed based life.
The CX was in fair few pieces – one front wheel off, and brake disassembled not to mention the gaping hole where the alternator used to reside. Time to get on with reassembly.
Luckily, I’d avoided taking the teardown any further, and had a vague recollection of how things went together.
I find it most helpful to switch off my logical brain when approaching CX work, instead adopting a more “Gallic flair & Bof” approach to considering the tasks at hand.
My friend Brian had helpfully taken pictures to show how the Alternator was connected during our epic battle to remove it.
That's 4ft of exhaust used on a breaker bar to get the alternator bolt off
I looked at the pile of bolts encased in an errant pulley and summoned up my inner Jean Reno/BA Baracus hybrid spirit.
I could see the goal clearly, with the myriad pulleys and pumps removed or moved, so at least had an idea as to how things were supposed to go.
I gave the bolt a wire brushing, and applied some copper grease to keep it from seizing
Then it was time for the torturous route to re-installation:
Only one grazed knuckle later, and it was in place. Some wrestling with a 13m spanner onto the flatted sides of the nut/retainer for the bolt meant that it tightened up, and we could turn our attention to getting the belt on and tensioned.
Wires on, it was time to rebuild the engine.
First up, we re-positioned the pump and removed pulleys and reattached the removed belts.
That just left the inlet manifold to reattach before cranking her over.
Immediately she fired, then died with a strong smell of fuel. A look in the engine bay highlighted a disconnected breather hose causing unmetered air to get into the inlet, and fuel pouring out of a supply pipe just before the filter.
The hose was easily reattached, but the fuel pipe was a bit more involved.
Fuel was seeping through the pipe that looks damp in the centre of this picture
But a new pipe soon sorted it out!Resolution involved removing a coolant pipe, then swapping the fuel hose over with new pipe, before replacing the coolant hose.
With that done, she settled down to a happy idle, and was even showing some volts! Still more to do to make sure she was spot on, but that is still to come
Bad news on the one hand, but positive on the other.
First up was a raid out of all the accumulated detritus that one manifests over time – half worn brake pads, used engine oil and that sort of thing. Some were destined for the Bakey (Dump), and others for transportation to a new and glorious shed based life.
The CX was in fair few pieces – one front wheel off, and brake disassembled not to mention the gaping hole where the alternator used to reside. Time to get on with reassembly.
Luckily, I’d avoided taking the teardown any further, and had a vague recollection of how things went together.
I find it most helpful to switch off my logical brain when approaching CX work, instead adopting a more “Gallic flair & Bof” approach to considering the tasks at hand.
My friend Brian had helpfully taken pictures to show how the Alternator was connected during our epic battle to remove it.
That's 4ft of exhaust used on a breaker bar to get the alternator bolt off
I looked at the pile of bolts encased in an errant pulley and summoned up my inner Jean Reno/BA Baracus hybrid spirit.
I could see the goal clearly, with the myriad pulleys and pumps removed or moved, so at least had an idea as to how things were supposed to go.
I gave the bolt a wire brushing, and applied some copper grease to keep it from seizing
Then it was time for the torturous route to re-installation:
Only one grazed knuckle later, and it was in place. Some wrestling with a 13m spanner onto the flatted sides of the nut/retainer for the bolt meant that it tightened up, and we could turn our attention to getting the belt on and tensioned.
Wires on, it was time to rebuild the engine.
First up, we re-positioned the pump and removed pulleys and reattached the removed belts.
That just left the inlet manifold to reattach before cranking her over.
Immediately she fired, then died with a strong smell of fuel. A look in the engine bay highlighted a disconnected breather hose causing unmetered air to get into the inlet, and fuel pouring out of a supply pipe just before the filter.
The hose was easily reattached, but the fuel pipe was a bit more involved.
Fuel was seeping through the pipe that looks damp in the centre of this picture
But a new pipe soon sorted it out!Resolution involved removing a coolant pipe, then swapping the fuel hose over with new pipe, before replacing the coolant hose.
With that done, she settled down to a happy idle, and was even showing some volts! Still more to do to make sure she was spot on, but that is still to come
At the start of today I was concerned that I’d bitten off more than I could chew. The dream seemed very far from reality.
The task was simple – understand just how much work would be needed to get the car in a fit mechanical state to take to the road. I’d previously had the front end apart, and had a good clean of the underside to understand the condition of the inner wings.
The LH front needs some work at the rear near the bulkhead, but otherwise seems solid enough. We already knew the disc is ok, but the pads will be replaced.
The RH front brought better news – no obvious issue with any of the brake lines, and the suspension looks decent, bar the crust of road dirt.
Application of a jet wash brought about the ability to see solid inner wings, in decent condition, and suspension that was operating well with no visible leaks.
Time to move to the back. Despite having had the car since October last year, this was the first time I’d really had a look at the rear.
Both rear wheels came off relatively easily, and the car seemed solid where jacked at both sides- a good start. The solid brake lines looked good after we carried out come archeology to free them from 30+ years of dirt in the rear arms.
It has also had recent pads at the rear – still with the super shiny paint on -they looked almost fresh out the box. The discs, however, looked to be fairly heavily worn.
Additionally, there seems to be a significant amount of fuel leaking from the filter at the rear of the car – this will need addressed asap!
In essence then, the CX needs the following on the running gear:
Front Pads
LH Front solid brake line
LH Front Flexi brake line
Rear Discs
For the engine/fuel:
Oil filter
Oil change
Rotor arm/Dizzy Cap
Spark Plugs
Coolant top up
Radiator fans tested
Alternator and charging circuit checked
Bodywork:
Hole in LH front Inner wing to be welded
Door skins to be repaired or replaced
Bonnet untwisted and straightened
Front wings tidied or replaced
Interior
A bloody good clean
Blower Fan fixed
With that done she’ll be back on the road. It may seem a lot, but with minimal parts required, and some assistance from friends, it should be easy enough!
The task was simple – understand just how much work would be needed to get the car in a fit mechanical state to take to the road. I’d previously had the front end apart, and had a good clean of the underside to understand the condition of the inner wings.
The LH front needs some work at the rear near the bulkhead, but otherwise seems solid enough. We already knew the disc is ok, but the pads will be replaced.
The RH front brought better news – no obvious issue with any of the brake lines, and the suspension looks decent, bar the crust of road dirt.
Application of a jet wash brought about the ability to see solid inner wings, in decent condition, and suspension that was operating well with no visible leaks.
Time to move to the back. Despite having had the car since October last year, this was the first time I’d really had a look at the rear.
Both rear wheels came off relatively easily, and the car seemed solid where jacked at both sides- a good start. The solid brake lines looked good after we carried out come archeology to free them from 30+ years of dirt in the rear arms.
It has also had recent pads at the rear – still with the super shiny paint on -they looked almost fresh out the box. The discs, however, looked to be fairly heavily worn.
Additionally, there seems to be a significant amount of fuel leaking from the filter at the rear of the car – this will need addressed asap!
In essence then, the CX needs the following on the running gear:
Front Pads
LH Front solid brake line
LH Front Flexi brake line
Rear Discs
For the engine/fuel:
Oil filter
Oil change
Rotor arm/Dizzy Cap
Spark Plugs
Coolant top up
Radiator fans tested
Alternator and charging circuit checked
Bodywork:
Hole in LH front Inner wing to be welded
Door skins to be repaired or replaced
Bonnet untwisted and straightened
Front wings tidied or replaced
Interior
A bloody good clean
Blower Fan fixed
With that done she’ll be back on the road. It may seem a lot, but with minimal parts required, and some assistance from friends, it should be easy enough!
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