Ford Focus Mk2 [ST] Estate Sleeper - Build Thread
Discussion
Fantastic read from start to finish - after clicking on it by mistake after looking for the next 'Thor' update.
Well done Chris.
Get your finger out Storer. 
BTW, to stop cabin drone, some companies fit a damping weight to the exhaust, others fit a resonator silencer in the centre.
Well done Chris.
Get your finger out Storer. BTW, to stop cabin drone, some companies fit a damping weight to the exhaust, others fit a resonator silencer in the centre.
Edited by ARAF on Thursday 19th November 22:20
13aines said:
Wow, you learn something new everyday. I think you were correct all along blueST... I think this is the explanation mathematically, as I was thinking.
Length does not come into the equation for calculating spring stiffness - I thought it did, so assumed that with a linear spring by reducing length you would reduce the number of coils roughly proportionally.
k = spring stiffness
d = wire diameter
G = shear modulus of spring material
D = mean diameter
N = number of active coils
When you cut the springs you reduce the active number of coils and the length. Since length doesn't come into calculating the spring stiffness the only change in the equation for calculating the spring stiffness is a reduction in the number of active coils, which since this is on the denominator increases the spring rate.
Embarrassing! My apologies for doubting you.
I love a good equation! Thanks for clearing that up for us with a bit of maths!Length does not come into the equation for calculating spring stiffness - I thought it did, so assumed that with a linear spring by reducing length you would reduce the number of coils roughly proportionally.
k = spring stiffness
d = wire diameter
G = shear modulus of spring material
D = mean diameter
N = number of active coils
When you cut the springs you reduce the active number of coils and the length. Since length doesn't come into calculating the spring stiffness the only change in the equation for calculating the spring stiffness is a reduction in the number of active coils, which since this is on the denominator increases the spring rate.
Embarrassing! My apologies for doubting you.
Edited by 13aines on Thursday 19th November 20:35
Heaveho said:
CHR15 G said:
What sort of heat wrap would you recommend?
I used Agriemach products, the woven stuff on rolls of varying widths..........I used it primarily to reduce underbonnet temps, but if I was faced with trying to reduce exhaust boom, I'd also try it for that. 
ARAF said:
Fantastic read from start to finish - after clicking on it by mistake after looking for the next 'Thor' update.
Well done Chris. Get your finger out Storer.
BTW, to stop cabin drone, some companies fit a damping weight to the exhaust, others fit a resonator silencer in the centre.
Haha, thank you, even if it was by mistake. I too love the Thor story.Well done Chris.
Get your finger out Storer. BTW, to stop cabin drone, some companies fit a damping weight to the exhaust, others fit a resonator silencer in the centre.
Edited by ARAF on Thursday 19th November 22:20
Thanks for the advise, I spoke to Milltek last weekend at the Classic Car show and they too said that I needed a resonator silencer and explained how it worked too.
CHR15 G said:
Muzzer79 said:
Superb
Got any pics of the finished interior?
Not right now, but I'll take some for you. Got any pics of the finished interior?
Rear seats match and so do the door cards, all from a base model 5 door ST. I opted for the cloth seats (of the base model) over the leather, as I'm not a fan of leather in this type of car- S Class or Range Rover yes, this no. I also got a set of fitted mats made up in black with the same coloured grey trim. Only thing left to do is get a spare steering wheel that I bought trimmed in black alcantara with a grey centre stripe (I have a centre stripe on my Clio and find it quite useful).
CHR15 G said:
ARAF said:
Fantastic read from start to finish - after clicking on it by mistake after looking for the next 'Thor' update.
Well done Chris. Get your finger out Storer.
BTW, to stop cabin drone, some companies fit a damping weight to the exhaust, others fit a resonator silencer in the centre.
Haha, thank you, even if it was by mistake. I too love the Thor story.Well done Chris.
Get your finger out Storer. BTW, to stop cabin drone, some companies fit a damping weight to the exhaust, others fit a resonator silencer in the centre.
Edited by ARAF on Thursday 19th November 22:20
Thanks for the advise, I spoke to Milltek last weekend at the Classic Car show and they too said that I needed a resonator silencer and explained how it worked too.
jamiem555 said:
That's really nice. Well done!
Muzzer79 said:
CHR15 G said:
CHR15 G said:
Muzzer79 said:
Superb
Got any pics of the finished interior?
Not right now, but I'll take some for you. Got any pics of the finished interior?
Stuballs said:
Awesome project. Just read right from the beginning.
I'm a converted fan of sleepers and now want one! Actually, I want yours!
Top work!
Thanks guysI'm a converted fan of sleepers and now want one! Actually, I want yours!
Top work!
So the other thing I decided I needed was wheel spacers, which I suspect will get a mixed reaction on here. The two main reasons for them are:
1. Aid brake cooling. The wheels sit very close to the calipers on the front face of the wheel and they have been getting quite hot on country roads. I hope that by spacing them out a bit it will draw in more air and cool the brakes.
2. Looks. I know everyone has said to keep it looking standard, but I'm finding it hard to bond with the car because it looks so normal. I want to add a little aggression to the car by bring the wheels out and filling the arches, please don't judge too harshly until you've seen the results!
Anyway, wheel spacers are custom made by Super Forma who said they would take 10 working days plus postage, but I actually ordered them on a Wednesday afternoon and they turned up on Friday morning! A really great service by them and I would thoroughly recommend them.
As said before, springs are -30mm by Eibach on the rear and dampers are standard fitment Sachs items.
New parts...
The car beforehand, the ride height at the rear actually looks ok here.
Working on the rear end.
I spent about 12 hours trying the remove the old springs and fitting the new one by using spring compressors, but every time I was close to compressing them far enough the spring compressors would bottom out on another suspension component. In the end the I put the jack under the outside edge of the lower wishbone and undid the bolt there and lowered the wishbone down. Doing it this way would have taken about an hour total, at least I know for next time!
Old spring and new spring.
And the new damper. The old one wasn't leaking, that's just WD40.
Wheel spacers front (20mm)...
and rear (25mm).
And for the finished result you'll have to wait until next time!
1. Aid brake cooling. The wheels sit very close to the calipers on the front face of the wheel and they have been getting quite hot on country roads. I hope that by spacing them out a bit it will draw in more air and cool the brakes.
2. Looks. I know everyone has said to keep it looking standard, but I'm finding it hard to bond with the car because it looks so normal. I want to add a little aggression to the car by bring the wheels out and filling the arches, please don't judge too harshly until you've seen the results!
Anyway, wheel spacers are custom made by Super Forma who said they would take 10 working days plus postage, but I actually ordered them on a Wednesday afternoon and they turned up on Friday morning! A really great service by them and I would thoroughly recommend them.
As said before, springs are -30mm by Eibach on the rear and dampers are standard fitment Sachs items.
New parts...
The car beforehand, the ride height at the rear actually looks ok here.
Working on the rear end.
I spent about 12 hours trying the remove the old springs and fitting the new one by using spring compressors, but every time I was close to compressing them far enough the spring compressors would bottom out on another suspension component. In the end the I put the jack under the outside edge of the lower wishbone and undid the bolt there and lowered the wishbone down. Doing it this way would have taken about an hour total, at least I know for next time!
Old spring and new spring.
And the new damper. The old one wasn't leaking, that's just WD40.
Wheel spacers front (20mm)...
and rear (25mm).
And for the finished result you'll have to wait until next time!
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