Bmw e30 323i rust bucket purchase
Discussion
Snowing outside so not sure il get much done this weekend cause disco's in the garage to be painted.
Taken the spare headlights out the boot and started to try sand them back to paint.
Managed to remove one light, the other is held into the metal surround by a big plastic hex bolt thing. How does this come off as the other light had a easy removal.
Taken the spare headlights out the boot and started to try sand them back to paint.
Managed to remove one light, the other is held into the metal surround by a big plastic hex bolt thing. How does this come off as the other light had a easy removal.
First drive today
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UB9rHNiHRxw
Brakes work but not great, they are going to be replaced anyway.
Engine temp got 3/8 and then started to "jump" up and down a little bit.
I have this gearknob, should it press down to go left into reverse like my e46 did or does it just sort of jump over?
This is pretty retro cool!
Found some old discs
This little thing leaks with the wires in it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UB9rHNiHRxw
Brakes work but not great, they are going to be replaced anyway.
Engine temp got 3/8 and then started to "jump" up and down a little bit.
I have this gearknob, should it press down to go left into reverse like my e46 did or does it just sort of jump over?
This is pretty retro cool!
Found some old discs
This little thing leaks with the wires in it
Welcome to old bmw life 
Looks a good starter point and less rust than I expected considering the state you found it. Wouldn't be the worst idea to remove the carpets and have a look under there. Easier to see any holes from the top.
Re the shifter, the lever just moves over to the left to select reverse, no need to pull anything up or down but it will require a bit of force. Works well once you get used to it.
E30 cooling systems are poor at the best of times, get that leak sorted before you drive it much. Thats the level sensor I believe. Shouldn't be too expensive to replace.
The spoiler is off a Tech 1 E30, a rare find now.
Looks a good starter point and less rust than I expected considering the state you found it. Wouldn't be the worst idea to remove the carpets and have a look under there. Easier to see any holes from the top.
Re the shifter, the lever just moves over to the left to select reverse, no need to pull anything up or down but it will require a bit of force. Works well once you get used to it.
E30 cooling systems are poor at the best of times, get that leak sorted before you drive it much. Thats the level sensor I believe. Shouldn't be too expensive to replace.
The spoiler is off a Tech 1 E30, a rare find now.
Would recommend doing the cam belt and water pump before getting too much more done, least then you'll know the engine is in good health. Changing it isn't too hard, though a tip is to crank the cam back by half a tooth when installing the new belt, as the 'long' run of the belt needs to be tight to keep timing. I've done this trick and its always worked.
The jumping temp gauge would suggest that the brass nut on the back of the instrument cluster is probably the cause.
The jumping temp gauge would suggest that the brass nut on the back of the instrument cluster is probably the cause.
All the carpets and interior will be coming out. Just waiting for the disco to come out the shed so I can start dismantling out of the snow/rain/cold.
Depending on how the spoiler is attached it may be removed and sold. Someone with the rest of the kit will want it more than me.
Belts will be done when my friendly mechanic welder friend is around as I would rather not do them alone. Will let him know your trick
I will check that nut out when its inside and being stripped.
Depending on how the spoiler is attached it may be removed and sold. Someone with the rest of the kit will want it more than me.
Belts will be done when my friendly mechanic welder friend is around as I would rather not do them alone. Will let him know your trick
I will check that nut out when its inside and being stripped.
Bear Phils said:
The spoiler is off a Tech 1 E30, a rare find now.
Nope, a tech 1 is much bigger and black rubber with a body coloured section to it, this looks like a standard boot spoiler to me.I concur that the temp gauge jumping about is the brass nut on the back of the gauge, very quick and easy to sort. The BMW M20 engine can be a complete git to bleed the cooling system properly so if you are struggling then you're not alone and there are a few good guides online. Also mentioned, it looks like the seats are from a mk2 E30, same shape but different material.
I doff my hat to you sir for restoring this, I'm currently restoring a tech2 325i Sport but it's taking a long time, my advice for you would be to go original as standard original mk1 E30s are few and far between (but obviously it's your call)a really original 323i would be a nice usable and reliable classic.
There is alot of good information on these on the e30zone forum and BMW's parts back-up for these is very good.
Small update
Disco is painted and out the garage in the morning so car will be starting to be dismantled tomorrow.
Does anyone know a good place to get repair panels for a good price?
Struggling with getting the headlights apart still as I dont want to break them.
Started a thread here to try get info if anyone knows http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&...
Disco is painted and out the garage in the morning so car will be starting to be dismantled tomorrow.
Does anyone know a good place to get repair panels for a good price?
Struggling with getting the headlights apart still as I dont want to break them.
Started a thread here to try get info if anyone knows http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&...
dbdb said:
LanceRS said:
Slow said:
How is it very rare? Looks like a f
ked e30 to me?
The 323 was only made at the very beginning of the e30 production run. It was replaced by the 325 after about a year or so. Not many left now.ked e30 to me?Finally into her home for the next while. Found a guy local just out of training who will sand/repair dents and spray for £800-900.
Wont be perfect but it will beat a bunch of welded on black panels + wings.
Found this belt + tensioner. Worth using or just buy new ones? Assumed to be bought 5 years ago when the previous owner bought the car and started to service it.
What is this thing? Found in the boot.
Arch liner and some square plastic piece, not sure where its from yet
Slightly worried when I saw this at first buried in rubbish
What appears to be chopped rear light wiring with a odd box
Connecters arent rusty on the rear lights which is odd as the lens's were full of water
Spare wheel well isnt rusty really, few scabs. Towbar is bolted through it though.
Going to try clean up but I have a spare pair so will set aside the best ones for it
Light surrounding areas is ok except for a small hole + bubbling where the seal goes on boot close
Rear arches are a little holey
Inner inner arch doesnt seem as bad
Dont like spiders but behind the linings there was alot
Thats this evenings work before it got dark and cold and I dont want to go under the car to get the tow ball off.
Wont be perfect but it will beat a bunch of welded on black panels + wings.
Found this belt + tensioner. Worth using or just buy new ones? Assumed to be bought 5 years ago when the previous owner bought the car and started to service it.
What is this thing? Found in the boot.
Arch liner and some square plastic piece, not sure where its from yet
Slightly worried when I saw this at first buried in rubbish
What appears to be chopped rear light wiring with a odd box
Connecters arent rusty on the rear lights which is odd as the lens's were full of water
Spare wheel well isnt rusty really, few scabs. Towbar is bolted through it though.
Going to try clean up but I have a spare pair so will set aside the best ones for it
Light surrounding areas is ok except for a small hole + bubbling where the seal goes on boot close
Rear arches are a little holey
Inner inner arch doesnt seem as bad
Dont like spiders but behind the linings there was alot
Thats this evenings work before it got dark and cold and I dont want to go under the car to get the tow ball off.
Slow said:
a guy local just out of training who will sand/repair dents and spray for £800-900.
Wont be perfect but it will beat a bunch of welded on black panels + wings.
You're getting waaay ahead of yourself thinking about sanding and painting. I'm afraid you can't bypass the 'welded on black panels + wings' stage. That car needs a lot of cancer cutting out of it if it's to be a roadworthy car and not a parts donor. Wont be perfect but it will beat a bunch of welded on black panels + wings.
The mystery sensor with the red wire looks like a pulse generator to me- probably crankshaft or camshaft. Since it's filthy and not actually fitted to the car it's probably safe to assume it needs to go in the bin, same as the cambelt and tensioner, your collection of scotchlocks and the mystery black box which are obviously something to do with the towbar electrics, probably a bonger for the indicators or maybe a relay box.
I want to see your project succeed so I'm going to be frank
This is a brave restoration project, and the only way to do it properly guaranteeing the car will have a life of more than a year or three ahead of it, is to;
-Strip it back to bare shell
-Cut out all rust and weld in new steel
corrosion protection, paint and re-assembly
If you're going to restore this car you're in it for the long haul, this is hundreds of hours work.
I hope none of this is coming as a surprise to you.
Of course, you could probably plate over the rust, fill the holes, give it a blow over, tackle the mechanicals and get it through an MOT. Then it will be roadworthy (for a time...) but still a dog.
coming from someone with a much less rusty project, but still rusty...i admire you for taking this on.
My mitsubishi is going to be running around £2k worth of rust repair and paint on structural and cosmetic rust, and i've severely shopped around for fair prices and good work.
I just had to drop £650 and that was just on getting rear chassis legs repaired and sealed up (3 days work, drop exhaust and fuel tank, clean back and plate rear chassis legs, rust proof everything). And i also found out both rear sills need doing which will be another £400.
Now if you can do some work yourself, and/or have deep pockets, you're laughing...but personally, the bimmer looks a massive massive amount of work. good luck and i'm on board, will be lovely when finished.
My mitsubishi is going to be running around £2k worth of rust repair and paint on structural and cosmetic rust, and i've severely shopped around for fair prices and good work.
I just had to drop £650 and that was just on getting rear chassis legs repaired and sealed up (3 days work, drop exhaust and fuel tank, clean back and plate rear chassis legs, rust proof everything). And i also found out both rear sills need doing which will be another £400.
Now if you can do some work yourself, and/or have deep pockets, you're laughing...but personally, the bimmer looks a massive massive amount of work. good luck and i'm on board, will be lovely when finished.
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