A Rolls Royce Silver Shadow found me.
Discussion
I am interested in the products you'll use to clean the engine.
As it's alloy you can't use a traditional engine cleaner as it will make the alloy turn white.
I have just removed the automatic gearbox from my '79 Shadow so I can rebuild it and also have to clean years of oil and mud of it, but haven't figured out the best way yet to do it.
As it's alloy you can't use a traditional engine cleaner as it will make the alloy turn white.
I have just removed the automatic gearbox from my '79 Shadow so I can rebuild it and also have to clean years of oil and mud of it, but haven't figured out the best way yet to do it.
ecurie said:
I am interested in the products you'll use to clean the engine.
As it's alloy you can't use a traditional engine cleaner as it will make the alloy turn white.
I have just removed the automatic gearbox from my '79 Shadow so I can rebuild it and also have to clean years of oil and mud of it, but haven't figured out the best way yet to do it.
To stop the furring that takes place when using an acid based cleaner on bare alloy use a good degreaser, then steam off the residue and dry with a heat gun. This is usually good enough to paint with a high pigment engine/gearbox enamel. The key is to use heat to your advantage, it neutralizes any impurities on the alloy surface. You can also use panel wipe or methylated spirit as a final surface prep' followed by a good heating from the heat gun. Here some finished engine and gearbox pics...As it's alloy you can't use a traditional engine cleaner as it will make the alloy turn white.
I have just removed the automatic gearbox from my '79 Shadow so I can rebuild it and also have to clean years of oil and mud of it, but haven't figured out the best way yet to do it.
btw, huntsman, this is a cracking project...
ecurie said:
I am interested in the products you'll use to clean the engine.
As it's alloy you can't use a traditional engine cleaner as it will make the alloy turn white.
I have just removed the automatic gearbox from my '79 Shadow so I can rebuild it and also have to clean years of oil and mud of it, but haven't figured out the best way yet to do it.
Old two stroke petrol for the mower, meths from a night in the park, carb cleaner, engine cleaner, thinners, panel wipe, white spirit, parafin, anything I could lay my hands on. Get a box of pervert gloves.As it's alloy you can't use a traditional engine cleaner as it will make the alloy turn white.
I have just removed the automatic gearbox from my '79 Shadow so I can rebuild it and also have to clean years of oil and mud of it, but haven't figured out the best way yet to do it.
I think I might rebuild my box once its out, I read that RR did a mod to slow the gear change down to make it even smoother which has a detrimental affect on the life of the clutch plates and that this mod can be reversed.
v8250 said:
To stop the furring that takes place when using an acid based cleaner on bare alloy use a good degreaser, then steam off the residue and dry with a heat gun. This is usually good enough to paint with a high pigment engine/gearbox enamel. The key is to use heat to your advantage, it neutralizes any impurities on the alloy surface. You can also use panel wipe or methylated spirit as a final surface prep' followed by a good heating from the heat gun. Here some finished engine and gearbox pics...
btw, huntsman, this is a cracking project...
That's all jolly posh! I'm not aiming for that smart!btw, huntsman, this is a cracking project...
v8250 said:
To stop the furring that takes place when using an acid based cleaner on bare alloy use a good degreaser, then steam off the residue and dry with a heat gun. This is usually good enough to paint with a high pigment engine/gearbox enamel. The key is to use heat to your advantage, it neutralizes any impurities on the alloy surface. You can also use panel wipe or methylated spirit as a final surface prep' followed by a good heating from the heat gun. Here some finished engine and gearbox pics...
btw, huntsman, this is a cracking project...
That looks suspiciously like a 5 speed SD1 box LM something or other.btw, huntsman, this is a cracking project...
Must be 30+ years since I've dabbled with them.
Huntsman said:
jimboobs said:
Just out of interest where do you get a 2nd hand RR engine from and, if you don't mind me asking, what's the going rate for one??
A bloke on ebay breaking a rusty Shadow 1. Prices vary, one breaker who lists masses of stuff on ebay wanted £1250 plus vat. I paid £750, its done 63k miles, coolant appeared clean and blue so suggests its been looked after, they can suffer with problems if the coolant hasn't been looked after. Fingers crossed!!finlo said:
That looks suspiciously like a 5 speed SD1 box LM something or other. Must be 30+ years since I've dabbled with them.
You're almost there...it's the later 2WD R380 'box, the last incarnation of the SD1 LT77...but with much stronger internals and reverse to right-down as opposed to left-up. Used on late MG RV8's, Morgans etc. This one's now sitting mated to a 4.0ltr Griffith engine in my MGB.Huntsman said:
That's all jolly posh! I'm not aiming for that smart!
Seriously, it doesn't take much to really clean and prep' an engine/gearbox. A weekend's good work and it's job done...and if the engine's out why not go for it? I use POR-15 engine enamel, it's available in a good range of colours and, most importantly, is 80% solid pigment; for the sake of £25 it has to be done...http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-engine-enamel-paint-4...
v8250 said:
Huntsman said:
That's all jolly posh! I'm not aiming for that smart!
Seriously, it doesn't take much to really clean and prep' an engine/gearbox. A weekend's good work and it's job done...and if the engine's out why not go for it? I use POR-15 engine enamel, it's available in a good range of colours and, most importantly, is 80% solid pigment; for the sake of £25 it has to be done...http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-engine-enamel-paint-4...
What I am saying is, don't use pigment loading as a yardstick for quality, the other components - solvents, resins, additives etc - play as an important part in the overall performance of the coating and for the financially astute, pigments are cheap, resins and additives are expensive.
tricky1962 said:
Just for the record, I'm an ink and coating manufacturer. POR-15 has a good reputation and has wonderful reviews, so I am sure their stuff does exactly what it says on the tin. However, high pigment loading is not always a good thing. Go too high and you end up with a paint that is dusty and doesn't stick.
What I am saying is, don't use pigment loading as a yardstick for quality, the other components - solvents, resins, additives etc - play as an important part in the overall performance of the coating and for the financially astute, pigments are cheap, resins and additives are expensive.
Thank you, Tricky, that's very good advice...and most accurate. It's certain there are low quality paint products out there. Luckily, the POR-15 enamel really does work superbly...have used it on many engines and gearboxes, it's highly durable & lasts for years. There must be some form of resin within the paint as the engine's heat expansion & contraction has no effect on the enamel; it does what it says on the tin.What I am saying is, don't use pigment loading as a yardstick for quality, the other components - solvents, resins, additives etc - play as an important part in the overall performance of the coating and for the financially astute, pigments are cheap, resins and additives are expensive.
Right then, bit of an update.
Left hand head came off without too much bother. Pulled a couple of valves, inlet looks fine, exhaust a bit pitted.
Right hand head caused a few weeks of delay and remains in place....I have got it moving, its come up about an inch, I can see its one particular stud, I guess the gap between the bore and the stud is full of soot/sludge/oil/corrosion. I have managed to move it up about 2mm, another evening with an extra pair of hands should see it off. It has been there 42 years afterall!
Left hand head came off without too much bother. Pulled a couple of valves, inlet looks fine, exhaust a bit pitted.
Right hand head caused a few weeks of delay and remains in place....I have got it moving, its come up about an inch, I can see its one particular stud, I guess the gap between the bore and the stud is full of soot/sludge/oil/corrosion. I have managed to move it up about 2mm, another evening with an extra pair of hands should see it off. It has been there 42 years afterall!
very good , you are very genius man, you work is better, the rolls Royce sliver is the best car. you are good dissension.
They are the epitome of luxury and style. Gracious lines with the smell of rich leather and deep knotty woods. Powerful but smooth and quiet. Commanding and overpowering among-st any selection of cars - even those costing many times more its value. The most luxurious hand made car you will ever find.
They are the epitome of luxury and style. Gracious lines with the smell of rich leather and deep knotty woods. Powerful but smooth and quiet. Commanding and overpowering among-st any selection of cars - even those costing many times more its value. The most luxurious hand made car you will ever find.
Huntsman, was thinking of you/your RR the other day wondering what's new? Re' head stud, either pull it out completely with an extractor or use coca-cola poured into the head stud bore and leave for a few days...the head will come free. CC has some amazing properties and have used this on a good few XK/XJ engines when removing their similarly large heads. And it wipes off cleanly with a good solvent.
v8250 said:
Huntsman, was thinking of you/your RR the other day wondering what's new? Re' head stud, either pull it out completely with an extractor or use coca-cola poured into the head stud bore and leave for a few days...the head will come free. CC has some amazing properties and have used this on a good few XK/XJ engines when removing their similarly large heads. And it wipes off cleanly with a good solvent.
There's 20 studs. 19 of them can be wiggled in their bore, which suggests they are free. One of them is solid, that's the one that's stuck. The exposed end is hollow and threaded for a rocker pedastel bolt and the solid section where the head nut rests is down in a deep bore....I might try coke. Not had success with it in the past tho.
Exhaust valve looked a bit pitted. £80 each. Ooof.
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