Porsche Boxster 986 - engine swap project
Discussion
I got Pirtek to make me the high pressure power steering line, re-using the original Porsche and Audi ends. That's the power steering finished and another job ticked off the list, not many things left to do now before i'm ready to drop the engine back out and start stripping it down.
I also test fitted the fuel rail, It's a stroke of luck how the fuel lines nicely curve around the oil cap, that's not something Audi designed as the manifold is facing the wrong way on my engine.
I also test fitted the fuel rail, It's a stroke of luck how the fuel lines nicely curve around the oil cap, that's not something Audi designed as the manifold is facing the wrong way on my engine.
I made up the fuel lines with the proper fittings.
The turbine housing on the Holset is a twin scroll design, I can't make use of that on my build so i've knife edged the divider and smoothed the edges of the flange. I also welded the internal wastegate shut and hacked off the actuator mounting tabs as the way it's clocked they were in the way of my oil feed,
The turbine housing on the Holset is a twin scroll design, I can't make use of that on my build so i've knife edged the divider and smoothed the edges of the flange. I also welded the internal wastegate shut and hacked off the actuator mounting tabs as the way it's clocked they were in the way of my oil feed,
I've finished the majority of the mocking up so i've pulled the engine back out ready to stripping it down
Cylinder heads removed
Here are the 2.7t (left) and 2.4 (right) cylinder heads, the 2.4's are like new compared to the 2.7's which is a result. The guy I bought the engine off (for peanuts) said it was low mileage and to be fair it does look it, no wear on the cams.
This pic shows how much larger the inlet ports are on the 2.4. The inlet cam also has a more aggressive profile than the 2.7. A good upgrade for a small outlay.
The 2.7 exhaust valves (left) have the collet slightly further down the stem than on the 2.4. I bought a set of spare valves from an Audi S4 so I didn't have to take the time to strip them out of my old heads. Glad I did as it's fiddly and i'm working on the floor, my knees are shot to bits now.
Fitting the valves and lapping them in.
Cylinder heads removed
Here are the 2.7t (left) and 2.4 (right) cylinder heads, the 2.4's are like new compared to the 2.7's which is a result. The guy I bought the engine off (for peanuts) said it was low mileage and to be fair it does look it, no wear on the cams.
This pic shows how much larger the inlet ports are on the 2.4. The inlet cam also has a more aggressive profile than the 2.7. A good upgrade for a small outlay.
The 2.7 exhaust valves (left) have the collet slightly further down the stem than on the 2.4. I bought a set of spare valves from an Audi S4 so I didn't have to take the time to strip them out of my old heads. Glad I did as it's fiddly and i'm working on the floor, my knees are shot to bits now.
Fitting the valves and lapping them in.
Standard conrods seem to be borderline at the power level i'm wanting so while the heads are off anyway I thought it best to put a set of forged ones in.
Dropped the sump and made a mess
Fitted the rods
I got a TTV Racing lightweight flywheel that's designed to take an Audi RS4 B7 clutch. I decided on a standard clutch as it'll be less harsh on the gearbox which I worry could be the weak link, also the Mrs can drive it easily. Hopefully it's up to the job, if not, i'll put a paddle clutch in it.
Fitted it.
Dropped the sump and made a mess
Fitted the rods
I got a TTV Racing lightweight flywheel that's designed to take an Audi RS4 B7 clutch. I decided on a standard clutch as it'll be less harsh on the gearbox which I worry could be the weak link, also the Mrs can drive it easily. Hopefully it's up to the job, if not, i'll put a paddle clutch in it.
Fitted it.
Cylinder heads are back on, along with a new water pump, thermostat and cambelt kit. When the old belt was removed, the tensioner had seized and there was loads of slack, got lucky with that. The bar is to lock the cams when doing the cambelt.
There is an auxiliary water pump that's designed to run when the engine is switched off. The purpose is to stop water boiling in the turbos and help cool them. I've decided i'm not going to run water lines on my turbo and I'm not using the fan controller that runs this pump so i've removed it.
Gave the cam covers a lick of textured paint.
The power steering pumps on the Audi and Porsche engines are pretty much the same so i've swapped over the smaller diameter pulley from the Boxster engine
There is an auxiliary water pump that's designed to run when the engine is switched off. The purpose is to stop water boiling in the turbos and help cool them. I've decided i'm not going to run water lines on my turbo and I'm not using the fan controller that runs this pump so i've removed it.
Gave the cam covers a lick of textured paint.
The power steering pumps on the Audi and Porsche engines are pretty much the same so i've swapped over the smaller diameter pulley from the Boxster engine
I knew it'd be needing a decent differential to help put the power down. Over the last few months i've had a stressful time trying to sort one out.
1st I stripped down my old diff. My hydraulic puller is my favourite toy.
The gearbox in my car is a 987 Boxster S 3.2, the 3.2 was made for a short period and there isn't much information about on it. A look on the Quaife website showed they listed the 986 S and 987 S (3.2 only) as the same part number. With that in mind, I started looking at the options for the 986 S. Ideally I wanted a plated diff. I saw on Facebook that EMC Motorsport had fitted a Kaaz LSD in a 986 S. Kaaz don't list it for that gearbox but it turned out it'll fit with some modification to the stub axles. I bought one.
The Kaaz didn't fit, it was completely different. EMC told me to bring them the box and they'd take a look. They did and it was totally different, Kaaz don't do one for my gearbox. Two days off work to take my box and collect it and a waste of both mine and EMC's time. It turns out Quaife have incorrectly listed the diffs on their website, not something i'd expect from a company like that. A call to my local Porsche parts dept. had them confirm the differential in my gearbox was the same part number as the one in a 3.4 Cayman S. There are LSD options for that.
A bit of googling found a company called Prestige Performance Centre GB that were doing a Wavetrac for £980, the next cheapest I had found was £1150. When I enquired about availability the return email was from Design 911 so the companies are linked. I ordered it and the next day I have a phone call from Design 911 telling me the price was wrong, it's £1300 so either I pay that or they'll cancel the order. Pretty poor form considering i'd enquired about it before hand and they didn't even bother to check the price. I personally think they should have honoured the price. I've bought something from them in the past that was in stock, it ended up coming from Germany, took about 3 weeks to arrive and they didn't let me know. s
t company, won't use them for anything in the future.
Then I found a company called Gripper, never heard of them before but I believe they are used in motorsport so thought i'd give them a go. They are a plated LSD like the Kaaz was and are set-up for my requirements. I ordered it from Corby Motorsport, told them I need an LSD for a Cayman S, it arrives and the box says "Cayman non S" on the label. A quick comparison, the height of the ring gear is wrong, the bolt holes are the wrong size and it'd need a huge shim on one of the bearings. They offered for me to send it back along with my original diff and they'll modify it. They seem nice enough but after my previous troubles i'm pissed off they've sent me a diff that's clearly going to be wrong. If they'd told me to send mine in 1st for comparison I would have. So that's getting sent back for a refund.
Someone reasonably local was selling a Cayman S gearbox that had a Quaife ATB fitted. The gearbox has 2nd gear synchro shot so it was a good price. I went and picked it up last night. At least I know for sure it'll fit my box and I won't waste any more time messing about with company's, the project is stalling over this. If I can fix the synchro i'll be able to keep the box as a spare (there is a reasonably high chance i'll be needing one at some point).
I'll be honest, a Quaife wasn't top of my list but it's better than an open diff, maintenance free unlike a plated diff and the car is mainly going to be used on the road so probably nicer to live with.
1st I stripped down my old diff. My hydraulic puller is my favourite toy.
The gearbox in my car is a 987 Boxster S 3.2, the 3.2 was made for a short period and there isn't much information about on it. A look on the Quaife website showed they listed the 986 S and 987 S (3.2 only) as the same part number. With that in mind, I started looking at the options for the 986 S. Ideally I wanted a plated diff. I saw on Facebook that EMC Motorsport had fitted a Kaaz LSD in a 986 S. Kaaz don't list it for that gearbox but it turned out it'll fit with some modification to the stub axles. I bought one.
The Kaaz didn't fit, it was completely different. EMC told me to bring them the box and they'd take a look. They did and it was totally different, Kaaz don't do one for my gearbox. Two days off work to take my box and collect it and a waste of both mine and EMC's time. It turns out Quaife have incorrectly listed the diffs on their website, not something i'd expect from a company like that. A call to my local Porsche parts dept. had them confirm the differential in my gearbox was the same part number as the one in a 3.4 Cayman S. There are LSD options for that.
A bit of googling found a company called Prestige Performance Centre GB that were doing a Wavetrac for £980, the next cheapest I had found was £1150. When I enquired about availability the return email was from Design 911 so the companies are linked. I ordered it and the next day I have a phone call from Design 911 telling me the price was wrong, it's £1300 so either I pay that or they'll cancel the order. Pretty poor form considering i'd enquired about it before hand and they didn't even bother to check the price. I personally think they should have honoured the price. I've bought something from them in the past that was in stock, it ended up coming from Germany, took about 3 weeks to arrive and they didn't let me know. s
t company, won't use them for anything in the future. Then I found a company called Gripper, never heard of them before but I believe they are used in motorsport so thought i'd give them a go. They are a plated LSD like the Kaaz was and are set-up for my requirements. I ordered it from Corby Motorsport, told them I need an LSD for a Cayman S, it arrives and the box says "Cayman non S" on the label. A quick comparison, the height of the ring gear is wrong, the bolt holes are the wrong size and it'd need a huge shim on one of the bearings. They offered for me to send it back along with my original diff and they'll modify it. They seem nice enough but after my previous troubles i'm pissed off they've sent me a diff that's clearly going to be wrong. If they'd told me to send mine in 1st for comparison I would have. So that's getting sent back for a refund.
Someone reasonably local was selling a Cayman S gearbox that had a Quaife ATB fitted. The gearbox has 2nd gear synchro shot so it was a good price. I went and picked it up last night. At least I know for sure it'll fit my box and I won't waste any more time messing about with company's, the project is stalling over this. If I can fix the synchro i'll be able to keep the box as a spare (there is a reasonably high chance i'll be needing one at some point).
I'll be honest, a Quaife wasn't top of my list but it's better than an open diff, maintenance free unlike a plated diff and the car is mainly going to be used on the road so probably nicer to live with.
Thanks, it'll probably be me that goes insane when it comes to the wiring.
I picked up some bits I had powder coated. I've got some modified suspension subframes (for driveshaft clearance) that aren't in these pictures, otherwise, these bits are all that i've needed to fabricate or modify to get the engine in the car. Just bolt on parts and nothing on the chassis modified. I didn't dare imagine it'd be this easy when I thought the idea up. The LS V8 converted ones in the USA require a fair amount of chassis hacking.
I picked up some bits I had powder coated. I've got some modified suspension subframes (for driveshaft clearance) that aren't in these pictures, otherwise, these bits are all that i've needed to fabricate or modify to get the engine in the car. Just bolt on parts and nothing on the chassis modified. I didn't dare imagine it'd be this easy when I thought the idea up. The LS V8 converted ones in the USA require a fair amount of chassis hacking.
The standard fuel rail has a load of stuff on it i'm not using
Took some of the un-needed mounting lugs off the manifold and removed the pipe by the the throttle body and tapped it for a thread so I can cap it off nicely.
Fitted some Bosch 750cc injectors
Looks a lot cleaner than before
Heat wrapped the exhaust
The air flow meter and N75 boost solenoid are relocated to the back of the gearbox by the turbo and the inlet manifold is swapped around so I had to get stuck into the wiring loom to move plugs about.
I'm using an AEM 5 bar map sensor instead of the standard one, this will require re-coding of the ECU.
The original EGT sensors are un-reliable and one of the biggest weak points of the standard engine so i've ditched them and i'll use this connected up to my Zeitronix data logger.
Took some of the un-needed mounting lugs off the manifold and removed the pipe by the the throttle body and tapped it for a thread so I can cap it off nicely.
Fitted some Bosch 750cc injectors
Looks a lot cleaner than before
Heat wrapped the exhaust
The air flow meter and N75 boost solenoid are relocated to the back of the gearbox by the turbo and the inlet manifold is swapped around so I had to get stuck into the wiring loom to move plugs about.
I'm using an AEM 5 bar map sensor instead of the standard one, this will require re-coding of the ECU.
The original EGT sensors are un-reliable and one of the biggest weak points of the standard engine so i've ditched them and i'll use this connected up to my Zeitronix data logger.
Fitting the engine. Lift the car up and push it in.
Roughly in position
Lift it up with a couple of trolley jacks and a transmission jack. The engine support beam helps keep it stable and takes the weight when I need to move the jacks around. It's a pain in the arse, I wish my engine crane was long enough to reach over the boot.
She's in her new home.
This shows the driveshaft clearance to the exhaust, and that's without the weight of the car on the suspension. It's not that close.
Roughly in position
Lift it up with a couple of trolley jacks and a transmission jack. The engine support beam helps keep it stable and takes the weight when I need to move the jacks around. It's a pain in the arse, I wish my engine crane was long enough to reach over the boot.
She's in her new home.
This shows the driveshaft clearance to the exhaust, and that's without the weight of the car on the suspension. It's not that close.
Edited by Escy on Thursday 2nd June 23:02
Thanks for the positive comments. I will keep an eye on that CV boot that's close to the exhaust and if I think it needs it, i'll make a heatshield.
The EGT sensor placement was a bit of a compromise. Wrapping the exhaust manifolds made access to some of the bolts difficult so I wanted to bolt the manifolds on with the engine out of the car. The EGT sensor arrived after the engine was already out of the car. I put it where I knew it wouldn't cause me a problem rather than guess and end up with it in the way or have it mounted somewhere I can't get a spanner on it (if I need to change it at some point).
The EGT sensor placement was a bit of a compromise. Wrapping the exhaust manifolds made access to some of the bolts difficult so I wanted to bolt the manifolds on with the engine out of the car. The EGT sensor arrived after the engine was already out of the car. I put it where I knew it wouldn't cause me a problem rather than guess and end up with it in the way or have it mounted somewhere I can't get a spanner on it (if I need to change it at some point).
Edited by Escy on Saturday 4th June 22:26
I wasn't interested in the Boxster (or any Porsche really) either to be honest, I only bought one with this project in mind. Since i've started working on it i've been impressed by the quality of engineering. It's not hard to see where the money goes when you start taking them apart.
The air filter sits behind the rear arch liner.
The air filter sits behind the rear arch liner.
It's been a while since I did an update. I fitted the rear bumper and decided the turbo was hanging a bit lower than it needed to be, it may have been vulnerable to speed bumps or high kerbs. I modified the mounting bracket to tuck the turbo up a bit higher. This meant re-doing the exhaust and the charge pipe. I re-wrapped the exhaust and manifolds as the stuff I used the 1st time was crap.
This is the turbo in it's new position and the space I have to design an exhaust system.
I wasn't sure what way to go with the exhaust. I wanted to make it 3.5". The options really are limited for silencers, bends and especially tail pipes. I randomly stumbled upon a 3.5" round to oval transition piece on a German website. It's looked like something that could pass as a tail pipe so I formulated a plan and bought a load of bits.
This might divide opinions, I'm having the 3.5" oval pipe alongside the screamer pipe for the external wastegate. It fills the bumper cut out nicely, I did consider the oval pipe by itself but it looked a little lost (Boxster has twin pipes as standard). I'm sure it won't be to everyone's taste, but I like it, it's all business. The system is a tight squeeze, it looked like there was loads of space but that space goes quickly with large diameter pipe work. I did think I wasn't going to be able to get an oval shaped silencer in, I nearly sent it back. It's tight for space pretty much everywhere and took me ages working out how best to design it but I'm really pleased with how it's turned out. I hope it sounds sweet and isn't too loud.
This is the turbo in it's new position and the space I have to design an exhaust system.
I wasn't sure what way to go with the exhaust. I wanted to make it 3.5". The options really are limited for silencers, bends and especially tail pipes. I randomly stumbled upon a 3.5" round to oval transition piece on a German website. It's looked like something that could pass as a tail pipe so I formulated a plan and bought a load of bits.
This might divide opinions, I'm having the 3.5" oval pipe alongside the screamer pipe for the external wastegate. It fills the bumper cut out nicely, I did consider the oval pipe by itself but it looked a little lost (Boxster has twin pipes as standard). I'm sure it won't be to everyone's taste, but I like it, it's all business. The system is a tight squeeze, it looked like there was loads of space but that space goes quickly with large diameter pipe work. I did think I wasn't going to be able to get an oval shaped silencer in, I nearly sent it back. It's tight for space pretty much everywhere and took me ages working out how best to design it but I'm really pleased with how it's turned out. I hope it sounds sweet and isn't too loud.
Thanks for the comments. Yes, the MOT was some good forward thinking, takes some pressure off when it comes to mapping and testing things.
I'm not far off now.
I need to finish off my charge cooler install, upgrade the fuel pump, install my data logging equipment and the big one, the elephant in the room - wiring!
I'm not far off now.
I need to finish off my charge cooler install, upgrade the fuel pump, install my data logging equipment and the big one, the elephant in the room - wiring!
I did look at that one but I've gone for a Zeitronix ZT-2. I like the fact it can display everything in one display. EGT, AFR, Boost, charge cooler water temp, IAT, etc. It means I don't need to have loads of gauges inside the car which it's the look i'm going for, I thought it might cheapen the interior with gauges all over the place.
I have to say i'm a little disappointed with the LCD display, I think it's been out for years and it looks it, it's the same height as a din slot which means I couldn't recess it in nicely into a spare din slot, the cable comes out the side so it can't be hidden and there is no provision for mounting it which means it's a velcro job. It's a shame they don't update it with something smaller than can easily be recessed, I could have made a slicker job of fitting it. I do like the fact it uses an RJ11 plug for the wiring (small broadband style plug), it means I can mount the main unit in the rear boot and make the wiring easy and just run a small cable through the car to the dash for the display.
The interior in this picture is a big bogging, a cat has been spending time inside it.
I have to say i'm a little disappointed with the LCD display, I think it's been out for years and it looks it, it's the same height as a din slot which means I couldn't recess it in nicely into a spare din slot, the cable comes out the side so it can't be hidden and there is no provision for mounting it which means it's a velcro job. It's a shame they don't update it with something smaller than can easily be recessed, I could have made a slicker job of fitting it. I do like the fact it uses an RJ11 plug for the wiring (small broadband style plug), it means I can mount the main unit in the rear boot and make the wiring easy and just run a small cable through the car to the dash for the display.
The interior in this picture is a big bogging, a cat has been spending time inside it.
Edited by Escy on Wednesday 6th July 22:45
JordanTurbo said:
Great progress.
Love the little and large tailpipes. It's the kind of thing a proper petrol head would notice when it's parked and give a little hint that something special is inside.
Thanks, I'm glad you said that. At first glance it looks a little odd but I think a petrol head will twig the smaller one is a screamer pipe. Love the little and large tailpipes. It's the kind of thing a proper petrol head would notice when it's parked and give a little hint that something special is inside.
ikarl said:
Absolutely fan-bloody-tastic
Exactly what it should've been from the start.
Is this the only build thread, or have you a more detailed one?
I've got one running on the Audi SRS and Boxa.net forums but the content is pretty much the same. Is there anything specific you want me to be more detailed on?Exactly what it should've been from the start.
Is this the only build thread, or have you a more detailed one?
Zeitronix offer something similar to that. I don't think it'd really suit the 986 interior, the basic LCD display i've got is quite understated in comparison. http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/dashdaq/dashdaq....
ikarl said:
nothing specific, I'm just surprised I've never read of many other swaps for the Boxster as the engine is what puts me off.
I wouldn't be surprised if other people wanted to copy your project - it looks just so... "right"
Hope you don't mind me asking, but how much do you reckon you've spent so far? (if you want to ignore this question, totally cool)
I'm also surprised there isn't more Boxsters with engine swaps, considering how well designed the chassis is and the fact that the original engines are failure prone and expensive when they do go.I wouldn't be surprised if other people wanted to copy your project - it looks just so... "right"
Hope you don't mind me asking, but how much do you reckon you've spent so far? (if you want to ignore this question, totally cool)
There is a guy in the US that's been inspired by my build and he's planning on using the same engine in a 914.
As for the build cost, it's reasonable considering the i'm going to end up (hopefully) with a 550+bhp mid engine Porsche.
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