1975 Jaguar XJ Coupe 6.0 V12
Discussion
vpr said:
Jenvey and emerald was my solution to my S1 Etype (apologies if I've already posted up)and also on my 280Z
So smooth, so efficient, so clean and starts on the button
Very nice indeed! I read that jenvey are doing a su version soon. Looks like carbs but actually injected. Can't beat that look. So smooth, so efficient, so clean and starts on the button
On your e type do you use a series 3 injection rail or is it all jenvey parts?
RobXjcoupe said:
How is the bodywork going on your car anyway? Any pictures? 
Bodywork has been finished and is now being paint prepped. The project has slowed down again because of issues with the paint shop meaning that XJ Restorations are building their own. My car will be the first one that they paint themselves and then it will be quite a rapid build from there as I am gathering up all of the bits I need in the meantime so the following are on order or on their way -External
Rechroming both bumpers removing over-riders and making the rear bumper one piece. Polish up all other external chrome
HID headlights have been dispatched from the states
Upper and lower mesh grille now complete as you can see on previous page
Rear light lenses will be made red when car is painted, already have the LED bulbs
Already have the modern wing badges
to do list external
Order the Hallibrand wheels... still debating what size to get
Order new set of racing mirrors
Rechrome the tread plates and find somewhere to do the design I want on them in black
Once thats all done will start to deal with the interior
interior
Auto dimming mirror with garage door opener, auto lights and auto wiper sensors on order
Electronic handbrake tested and works so just need to find a suitable looking switch
Gauges to be ordered from Speedhut this week to take advantage of black friday 20% discount
Already have the small modern warning light panel
Already have the piano black wood steering wheel
Loads more to do on the interior after that but the above is a start.
I am not in the country much at the moment so if we are at the point where its painted and all of the above fitted by March and we can move on from there then I will be happy
craigjm said:
RobXjcoupe said:
How is the bodywork going on your car anyway? Any pictures?
Bodywork has been finished and is now being paint prepped. The project has slowed down again because of issues with the paint shop meaning that XJ Restorations are building their own. My car will be the first one that they paint themselves and then it will be quite a rapid build from there as I am gathering up all of the bits I need in the meantime so the following are on order or on their way -External
Rechroming both bumpers removing over-riders and making the rear bumper one piece. Polish up all other external chrome
HID headlights have been dispatched from the states
Upper and lower mesh grille now complete as you can see on previous page
Rear light lenses will be made red when car is painted, already have the LED bulbs
Already have the modern wing badges
to do list external
Order the Hallibrand wheels... still debating what size to get
Order new set of racing mirrors
Rechrome the tread plates and find somewhere to do the design I want on them in black
Once thats all done will start to deal with the interior
interior
Auto dimming mirror with garage door opener, auto lights and auto wiper sensors on order
Electronic handbrake tested and works so just need to find a suitable looking switch
Gauges to be ordered from Speedhut this week to take advantage of black friday 20% discount
Already have the small modern warning light panel
Already have the piano black wood steering wheel
Loads more to do on the interior after that but the above is a start.
I am not in the country much at the moment so if we are at the point where its painted and all of the above fitted by March and we can move on from there then I will be happy
Regarding the kick plates, a company called the finishing touch make stainless steel coupe versions. You could order them plain so as they could be engraved to what you want? The original aluminium kick plates are very fragile and mark easily for use on an everyday car.
Your wheel width and diameter are a bit interesting to what you have already mentioned before. It could be best to wait until the body is painted with the wheels you have to measure up exactly what is required. I would guess with cut rear arches a 10" wide rear wheel is now possible but the offset needs to be measured.
Do you have those round racing mirrors? If you do be sure where to position them to be able to adjust as you require. I fitted the round mirrors in the factory door position and found the passenger mirror was useless as it didn't adjust where I wanted it. I've gone back to the original stalk type that are outside adjusted. I think sng Barrett do the clamshell type that are electric adjustable.
I'm looking forward to seeing the body painted with the new chrome bumpers
Yeah it might be cheaper getting a set from them and having them etched in colour somewhere than rechrome the ones that are on (which are not the standard ones anyway)
I need someone who really knows what they are talking about to speak to about the wheels. They are 8 all round at the moment on 235 tyres and it drives well. Some have said that moving to a wider rear tyre and leaving the 8s on the front will make it tail happy and handle like rubbish especially in the wet but I have no idea
I dont like the stalk or clamshell mirrors (although i might like the clamshells if they were twice the size) will stick with the sports ones and position them well.
I need someone who really knows what they are talking about to speak to about the wheels. They are 8 all round at the moment on 235 tyres and it drives well. Some have said that moving to a wider rear tyre and leaving the 8s on the front will make it tail happy and handle like rubbish especially in the wet but I have no idea
I dont like the stalk or clamshell mirrors (although i might like the clamshells if they were twice the size) will stick with the sports ones and position them well.
craigjm said:
Yeah it might be cheaper getting a set from them and having them etched in colour somewhere than rechrome the ones that are on (which are not the standard ones anyway)
I need someone who really knows what they are talking about to speak to about the wheels. They are 8 all round at the moment on 235 tyres and it drives well. Some have said that moving to a wider rear tyre and leaving the 8s on the front will make it tail happy and handle like rubbish especially in the wet but I have no idea
I dont like the stalk or clamshell mirrors (although i might like the clamshells if they were twice the size) will stick with the sports ones and position them well.
If you laser etch the stainless, different heat will give a slightly different colour. If you acid etch stainless then polish the plates, the etch turns black with the dirt as you polish the smooth metal or engrave to a depth to back fill with a paint colour of your choice or lastly run a flame over the stainless to get a rainbow type of effect then engrave to leave shiny stainless letters? I need someone who really knows what they are talking about to speak to about the wheels. They are 8 all round at the moment on 235 tyres and it drives well. Some have said that moving to a wider rear tyre and leaving the 8s on the front will make it tail happy and handle like rubbish especially in the wet but I have no idea
I dont like the stalk or clamshell mirrors (although i might like the clamshells if they were twice the size) will stick with the sports ones and position them well.
With your wheel and tyre choice, a corner balanced car with the ideal 50/50 weight balance is a starting point to a well sorted chassis. A staggered rear wheel drive tyre fitment will increase hard straight line grip. Narrower fronts are generally there because of insufficient space to fit equally wide rubber and still be able to steer lock to lock. Higher profile tyres will give a more comfortable ride but will lack the grip on more exciting twisting roads as the tyre will roll on its edges as the weight of the car moves from left to right.
Your car will have approx 400bhp. It will be tail happy in the wet with a heavy right foot no matter what. It's your ability as a driver to determine a safe driving manner in differing road conditions. Wet tyres give better resistance to aquaplaning but so does slowing down.
Maybe have a staggered set of wheels and tyres for the summer and a narrower higher profile set for winter weather to get more weight per square inch on the ground and to help cut through wet and snowy roads?
I'm not sure what you want exactly regarding wheel and tyre fitment as comfort is the compromise of performance and vice versa and both will be tail happy in the wet with a heavy right foot
Calling anyone that has a series 2 or 3 XJ.....
I have designed my gauges to replace the crappy originals and the company have now told me that if I want to invert the two that sit at the top the gauge still has to work in the same direction so for instance fuel when upside down would have full on the left and empty on the right!!!
Think I might just get them to make them all the correct way up. Based on sitting in your car, if I did that, would I obscure the gauges with the wheel at any point? Although I am thinking occasionally difficulty reading the top two outer gauges would be a price worth paying.
I have designed my gauges to replace the crappy originals and the company have now told me that if I want to invert the two that sit at the top the gauge still has to work in the same direction so for instance fuel when upside down would have full on the left and empty on the right!!!
Think I might just get them to make them all the correct way up. Based on sitting in your car, if I did that, would I obscure the gauges with the wheel at any point? Although I am thinking occasionally difficulty reading the top two outer gauges would be a price worth paying.
f
k that the originals are st
Ive just had a friend sit in his who has a smaller diameter wheel and say that it makes no difference if they are upright so im going with that. That way I can choose which two are the most important and put them at the bottom (that will be fuel and temperature then). Car is gonna be nothing like original so it doesn't bother me what order the gauges are in and I don't need to know oil pressure and voltage every second.
They were a lot cheaper than expected anyway bought them on black Friday so money I saved will pay VAT and import and based on what they charged VAT and import on the headlights its nowhere near the 20% and 10% it should be as the $1000 headlights cost me £50
k that the originals are stIve just had a friend sit in his who has a smaller diameter wheel and say that it makes no difference if they are upright so im going with that. That way I can choose which two are the most important and put them at the bottom (that will be fuel and temperature then). Car is gonna be nothing like original so it doesn't bother me what order the gauges are in and I don't need to know oil pressure and voltage every second.
They were a lot cheaper than expected anyway bought them on black Friday so money I saved will pay VAT and import and based on what they charged VAT and import on the headlights its nowhere near the 20% and 10% it should be as the $1000 headlights cost me £50
I thought all the same way up would be an improvement anyway, but working back to front you will get used to it as a quirk of your car. As you say you don't want it anything like original.
A set of Aston db7 front seats were on eBay not so long ago. They would bolt it easily as the db7 uses the xjs floorpan which came originally from the xj
A set of Aston db7 front seats were on eBay not so long ago. They would bolt it easily as the db7 uses the xjs floorpan which came originally from the xj
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