Shedding properly, 2004 Passat Estate 1.9 TDI
Discussion
Cracking on with the cambelt change itself.
Whatever cambelt you are doing you must have the correct timing tools.
Engine as is after taking the front end off.
Engine top cover off
I like to loosen a few key components to start with. If you get stuck on these then you are, well stuck, so it best to get them over and done with.
Prise out rubber cover over crank pulley bolts
8mm allen key socket for the viscose fan, if you are lucky this will undo whilst the aux belt counter holds the fan pulley, I was. If not in the past I've used some soft jawed pliers to counter hold the puuley
Fan coming off
Fan off
Crank pulley bolts. These are made from cheese and easily round off. These were re-sued from last time I did the belt which would have been the second belt change on the car. They did not and would cope with a third belt change. Despite having good and close fitting tools they rounded off. Luckily for me as I've got stuck at this point before I had a set of Irwin bolt grip sockets as pictured. Lightly tapped on to each cheese head it had them off. If you are doing this, make sure you have a similar means to get past this hurdle if these cheese heads round off!
Counter holding crank via 19mm center bolt and then using another breaker bar and the bolt grip socket
Also make sure you have the means to get the old cheese heads out of the bolt grip socket. They are very good at gripping bolts and need some whackage to get them out.
Damned things, all out.
Aircon belt, loosen pivot bolt
Then the clamp bolt
Take the belt off
Taking the tension off the aux belt, 19mm spanner counter clockwise, take the belt off
Aux belt tensioner lower bolt
Viscose fan hub already off, remember the first bolt undone from the back..
Aux belt tensioner upper bolt
The growing collection of lumps of car
Both aux belts off including tensioners, fan and fan hub off
Top cambelt cover off, two spring clips. You can see the five 10mm bolts that hold the two lover covers on, take them out and remove!
Evidence of the old water pump leaking, crystalised coolant This is another reason why you should always change the waterump
Out curiosity, I wanted to see what the belt tension was. It was out a bit but as expected after 40k on the car.
Whatever cambelt you are doing you must have the correct timing tools.
Engine as is after taking the front end off.
Engine top cover off
I like to loosen a few key components to start with. If you get stuck on these then you are, well stuck, so it best to get them over and done with.
Prise out rubber cover over crank pulley bolts
8mm allen key socket for the viscose fan, if you are lucky this will undo whilst the aux belt counter holds the fan pulley, I was. If not in the past I've used some soft jawed pliers to counter hold the puuley
Fan coming off
Fan off
Crank pulley bolts. These are made from cheese and easily round off. These were re-sued from last time I did the belt which would have been the second belt change on the car. They did not and would cope with a third belt change. Despite having good and close fitting tools they rounded off. Luckily for me as I've got stuck at this point before I had a set of Irwin bolt grip sockets as pictured. Lightly tapped on to each cheese head it had them off. If you are doing this, make sure you have a similar means to get past this hurdle if these cheese heads round off!
Counter holding crank via 19mm center bolt and then using another breaker bar and the bolt grip socket
Also make sure you have the means to get the old cheese heads out of the bolt grip socket. They are very good at gripping bolts and need some whackage to get them out.
Damned things, all out.
Aircon belt, loosen pivot bolt
Then the clamp bolt
Take the belt off
Taking the tension off the aux belt, 19mm spanner counter clockwise, take the belt off
Aux belt tensioner lower bolt
Viscose fan hub already off, remember the first bolt undone from the back..
Aux belt tensioner upper bolt
The growing collection of lumps of car
Both aux belts off including tensioners, fan and fan hub off
Top cambelt cover off, two spring clips. You can see the five 10mm bolts that hold the two lover covers on, take them out and remove!
Evidence of the old water pump leaking, crystalised coolant This is another reason why you should always change the waterump
Out curiosity, I wanted to see what the belt tension was. It was out a bit but as expected after 40k on the car.
Timing the engine up prior to removing the old belt.
On these engine you lock the crankshaft and the (single) camshaft. Nice and easy, in fact one of the easiest you can do but you need to understand the basics and they are the that due to the locking tools the static timing is extremely precise. As such you may get a locking tool in on the crank but it wont fit on the cam or vica versa.
This is what happened to me just now, one tool would fit, the other wouldn't.
So....
Crank tool in, note the alignment marks
Crank tool partly pulled out to show rear alignment peg and hole for the peg in the housing behind.
But the cam locking pin wouldn't fit all the way in.
So I removed the crank locking tool and carfully turned the engine (just a few degrees) until the cam pin went all the way in.
Back down to the crank tool, it wouldn't fit as expected, about 1/4 of a belt tooth out, this is due to belt stretch and wear after being on the car for 40k miles, quite normal and this is why we re-time correctly at each belt change.
So, what you do then is loosen the three outer cam pulley bolts so that the outer can rotate. Sounds mad, but the cam obviously has an outer and inner pulley, whilst the inner is locked with the timing pin, the outer pulley is free to rotate by the amount available on the slotted bolt holes.
So now with the cam inner locked but the outer loose, you can carefully turn the crank (in this cae a few degrees or about 1/4 of a tooth) so that the crank locking will fit. By doing this you are re-setting and correcting the timing. If you recall the screen shot of the "syncro angle" or "torsion value" being at 1.1, doing this you will be getting it back to 0.0. The running tolerance on these engines is about +/- 5.0 at which point it won't run however some say there is a sweet spot timing wise but I don't know what it is so I set where it should be at 0.0
So, now that the timing is correctly set you can set about removing the old belt. One last thing on setting the timing, it possible to get it 180 degrees out initially as the cam and crank don't rotate at the same speeds, you'll get the crank locking tool in but there will be no chance of getting the cam pin in despite tweaking +/- tooth. Just rotate the crank one full turn and then the cam should close enough to do the +/- 1/4 tooth maneuver I did.
Belt tensioner nut off. Fully de-tension using an allen key on the tensioner, you can see below where it goes.
Removing nut on deflection / idler pulley. I find the belt goes on / off easier with this out the way. If you have never done a belt before you will be amazed at how tight they are even when supposidly "de-tensioned".
The old belt off and in very good condition, probably good for another 40k+
Waterpump off time, three bolts and wiggle it out. Some pumps are stuck fast in the blocks and require considerable violence inflicted to them to get them out.
Water pump off. Prepare for coolant to go everywhere. This is why I don't actually do this in the garage itself.
Evidence of the pump leaking. There is not a lot you can do about this. Everything is / was spotlessly clean when I fitted it.
You can see the thermostat through the 'ole...
So there we are, everything off and ready, almost for the new belt and associated gubbins.
One last thing, I like to take the outer cam pulley off and give the the mating surfaces a good wipe over with a very slightly oil rag. This helps any micro adjustments you may need to make later on the timing.
On these engine you lock the crankshaft and the (single) camshaft. Nice and easy, in fact one of the easiest you can do but you need to understand the basics and they are the that due to the locking tools the static timing is extremely precise. As such you may get a locking tool in on the crank but it wont fit on the cam or vica versa.
This is what happened to me just now, one tool would fit, the other wouldn't.
So....
Crank tool in, note the alignment marks
Crank tool partly pulled out to show rear alignment peg and hole for the peg in the housing behind.
But the cam locking pin wouldn't fit all the way in.
So I removed the crank locking tool and carfully turned the engine (just a few degrees) until the cam pin went all the way in.
Back down to the crank tool, it wouldn't fit as expected, about 1/4 of a belt tooth out, this is due to belt stretch and wear after being on the car for 40k miles, quite normal and this is why we re-time correctly at each belt change.
So, what you do then is loosen the three outer cam pulley bolts so that the outer can rotate. Sounds mad, but the cam obviously has an outer and inner pulley, whilst the inner is locked with the timing pin, the outer pulley is free to rotate by the amount available on the slotted bolt holes.
So now with the cam inner locked but the outer loose, you can carefully turn the crank (in this cae a few degrees or about 1/4 of a tooth) so that the crank locking will fit. By doing this you are re-setting and correcting the timing. If you recall the screen shot of the "syncro angle" or "torsion value" being at 1.1, doing this you will be getting it back to 0.0. The running tolerance on these engines is about +/- 5.0 at which point it won't run however some say there is a sweet spot timing wise but I don't know what it is so I set where it should be at 0.0
So, now that the timing is correctly set you can set about removing the old belt. One last thing on setting the timing, it possible to get it 180 degrees out initially as the cam and crank don't rotate at the same speeds, you'll get the crank locking tool in but there will be no chance of getting the cam pin in despite tweaking +/- tooth. Just rotate the crank one full turn and then the cam should close enough to do the +/- 1/4 tooth maneuver I did.
Belt tensioner nut off. Fully de-tension using an allen key on the tensioner, you can see below where it goes.
Removing nut on deflection / idler pulley. I find the belt goes on / off easier with this out the way. If you have never done a belt before you will be amazed at how tight they are even when supposidly "de-tensioned".
The old belt off and in very good condition, probably good for another 40k+
Waterpump off time, three bolts and wiggle it out. Some pumps are stuck fast in the blocks and require considerable violence inflicted to them to get them out.
Water pump off. Prepare for coolant to go everywhere. This is why I don't actually do this in the garage itself.
Evidence of the pump leaking. There is not a lot you can do about this. Everything is / was spotlessly clean when I fitted it.
You can see the thermostat through the 'ole...
So there we are, everything off and ready, almost for the new belt and associated gubbins.
One last thing, I like to take the outer cam pulley off and give the the mating surfaces a good wipe over with a very slightly oil rag. This helps any micro adjustments you may need to make later on the timing.
Completely hatstand, but in a good way obviously 
This is the proper tool for the CV clips, not some manky pliers.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA0H1U/
This is the proper tool for the CV clips, not some manky pliers.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA0H1U/
New belt on.
If you have done one of these on an 8v PD engine they are incredibly tight to fit un-tensioned which is why I favour leaving the deflector pulley off until the belt is mounted. It also helps if the tensioner is right out on the end of its mounting stud with the belt looped over its lip and then draw the tensioner in whilst pushing the belt over the cam pulley.
From the last post, naked bare timing end of the engine. I spend quite a bit of time making sure everything is as clean as I can get it. I used almost a whole can of aerosol brake cleaner doing this washing every sign of grease and grit away focusing on the pulleys.
First job is to swap the mounting studs out for the tensioner and idler / deflection pulley. Ye olde lock nut trick is the one to use for this.
I like the Gates kits as they use Litens tensioners
Make sure the angled elbow bit fits into the corresponding slot in the backplate seen in the background
Like so
New waterpump on, new tensioner and mounting studs on.
Belt on. Make sure the cam pulley is centered in the middle of the elongated slots and is free to rotate. Obviosuly both locking tools are in at this time. As above these are a tight fit and can take some time and effort to fit. The PD TDI belts are very heavy duty things being twice the width of a normal belt. Massively engineered I suppose as the cam drives the unit injectors.
Tensioning the belt. This is a bit of trial and error as when you tighten the tensioner lock nut the tension increases.
To prove the point, this is the basic tension before tightening the nut. The pointer is in the middle where it should be
But when tightened it is clockwise out of the 'window'.
So to get the tension spot on, start low or slightly anti-clock from the center of the window so that when you tighten the nut it pulls it to where it should be. Start here.....
One attempt, nearly there.... I gave up taking photos at this point but it took another two goes to get it 'cock-on'. Now tighten the three 13mm bolts so the outer cam pulley is locked back to the inner pulley.
So now, you have enverything tightened up, the engine timed up with the locking tools in and the tension set. You now need to 'prove' your work. Pull the timing tools out and then turn the engine over two or four times via a socket on the crank pulley and then put the locking tools back in position. All being well the tools will glide back in. If they don't you need to undo the three bolts on the cam pulley and tweak thing a bit (much like you did when you set the initial timing).
The best way I've found to do both this for the initial timing at the start of the job and the final adjustments is as follows;
Get the crank locking tool in.
If the cam locking pin won't go in then remove the crank tool.
Finely rotate the engine until the cam pin goes in, you cannot see the 'ole for it so it has too be by feel or this way. Rememeber mine was about 1/4 of a tooth out.
Undo the three cam bolts
Offer up the crank locking tool so you can see which way you need to turn the engine, it should be close.
Both tools should slide freely in and out.
Tighten the three cam sprocket bolts back up.
Check the belt tension again, the pointer.
Remove the tools and rotate the engine again 2 or 4 times.
Repeat until you are happy.
Cock-on
For me, the way I left was that the timing tools went in with just a knats-cock of a tweak required to get them both in, they did were just a bit tight. I'm not too worried about it as it will be close enough and i'll check the timing (syncro angle / torsion value) with the diagnostic software once everything is screwed back together.
It is quite easy to adjust if needs be when the car is fully back together, all that is needed is the engine cover taken off and the upper cambelt cover unclipped so as to allow access to the three cam sprocket bolts.
Covers back on and job done, well the cambelt change is anyway.
If you have done one of these on an 8v PD engine they are incredibly tight to fit un-tensioned which is why I favour leaving the deflector pulley off until the belt is mounted. It also helps if the tensioner is right out on the end of its mounting stud with the belt looped over its lip and then draw the tensioner in whilst pushing the belt over the cam pulley.
From the last post, naked bare timing end of the engine. I spend quite a bit of time making sure everything is as clean as I can get it. I used almost a whole can of aerosol brake cleaner doing this washing every sign of grease and grit away focusing on the pulleys.
First job is to swap the mounting studs out for the tensioner and idler / deflection pulley. Ye olde lock nut trick is the one to use for this.
I like the Gates kits as they use Litens tensioners
Make sure the angled elbow bit fits into the corresponding slot in the backplate seen in the background
Like so
New waterpump on, new tensioner and mounting studs on.
Belt on. Make sure the cam pulley is centered in the middle of the elongated slots and is free to rotate. Obviosuly both locking tools are in at this time. As above these are a tight fit and can take some time and effort to fit. The PD TDI belts are very heavy duty things being twice the width of a normal belt. Massively engineered I suppose as the cam drives the unit injectors.
Tensioning the belt. This is a bit of trial and error as when you tighten the tensioner lock nut the tension increases.
To prove the point, this is the basic tension before tightening the nut. The pointer is in the middle where it should be
But when tightened it is clockwise out of the 'window'.
So to get the tension spot on, start low or slightly anti-clock from the center of the window so that when you tighten the nut it pulls it to where it should be. Start here.....
One attempt, nearly there.... I gave up taking photos at this point but it took another two goes to get it 'cock-on'. Now tighten the three 13mm bolts so the outer cam pulley is locked back to the inner pulley.
So now, you have enverything tightened up, the engine timed up with the locking tools in and the tension set. You now need to 'prove' your work. Pull the timing tools out and then turn the engine over two or four times via a socket on the crank pulley and then put the locking tools back in position. All being well the tools will glide back in. If they don't you need to undo the three bolts on the cam pulley and tweak thing a bit (much like you did when you set the initial timing).
The best way I've found to do both this for the initial timing at the start of the job and the final adjustments is as follows;
Get the crank locking tool in.
If the cam locking pin won't go in then remove the crank tool.
Finely rotate the engine until the cam pin goes in, you cannot see the 'ole for it so it has too be by feel or this way. Rememeber mine was about 1/4 of a tooth out.
Undo the three cam bolts
Offer up the crank locking tool so you can see which way you need to turn the engine, it should be close.
Both tools should slide freely in and out.
Tighten the three cam sprocket bolts back up.
Check the belt tension again, the pointer.
Remove the tools and rotate the engine again 2 or 4 times.
Repeat until you are happy.
Cock-on
For me, the way I left was that the timing tools went in with just a knats-cock of a tweak required to get them both in, they did were just a bit tight. I'm not too worried about it as it will be close enough and i'll check the timing (syncro angle / torsion value) with the diagnostic software once everything is screwed back together.
It is quite easy to adjust if needs be when the car is fully back together, all that is needed is the engine cover taken off and the upper cambelt cover unclipped so as to allow access to the three cam sprocket bolts.
Covers back on and job done, well the cambelt change is anyway.
Spangles said:
Completely hatstand, but in a good way obviously
This is the proper tool for the CV clips, not some manky pliers.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA0H1U/
Mine look like manky pliers but are also the proper tool for the clips. Just a bit dirty, well manky from being covered in moly grease a few times when I was, as you do, having a bit of a mare in previous cv joint boot adventures.This is the proper tool for the CV clips, not some manky pliers.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA0H1U/
Have to say those ones do look nicer and they are clean.
Quite exciting and into uncharted territory.
I swapped out the viscose fan bearing after some head scratching and cobbling together some big sockets and some thread bar. The bearing itself is a snug interference fit into the huge aluminium carrier bracket that holds the alternator and power steering pump also. A cock up would be expensive but I forged ahead regardless and did it.
I also swapped over the alternator over run pulley clutch type thing, very easy to do once you work out it is a left hand thread, d'oh !
Blurred shot of the fan bearing being drawn out
Pulled out to the edge of the casting, a bit of a re-think and a bigger socket that the bearing can be drawn into
And the bearing out
A 30mm socket was a perfect fit for drawing the new bearing in
New bearing with socket pushing on the outer race, starting off...
Side view of my Heath Robinson setup for drawing the bearing in. Very pleased with how it went.
2/3's of the way in
In
The H.R. tool. The small socket is 30mm the big one is huge.
Cap off alternator pulley
The extractor tool. The old pulley unscrewed and the new one went on very easily
All of the aux components on, new tensioners and new belts.
I swapped out the viscose fan bearing after some head scratching and cobbling together some big sockets and some thread bar. The bearing itself is a snug interference fit into the huge aluminium carrier bracket that holds the alternator and power steering pump also. A cock up would be expensive but I forged ahead regardless and did it.
I also swapped over the alternator over run pulley clutch type thing, very easy to do once you work out it is a left hand thread, d'oh !
Blurred shot of the fan bearing being drawn out
Pulled out to the edge of the casting, a bit of a re-think and a bigger socket that the bearing can be drawn into
And the bearing out
A 30mm socket was a perfect fit for drawing the new bearing in
New bearing with socket pushing on the outer race, starting off...
Side view of my Heath Robinson setup for drawing the bearing in. Very pleased with how it went.
2/3's of the way in
In
The H.R. tool. The small socket is 30mm the big one is huge.
Cap off alternator pulley
The extractor tool. The old pulley unscrewed and the new one went on very easily
All of the aux components on, new tensioners and new belts.
Just about finished. All there is to do is reset the front lower arm suspension bushes for the revised spring height, put the undershields back on and have a jolly good tidy up. It would also be rude not to give the car a clean as well.
I spent some time replacing the vacuum hoses that are ordinarily hidden when the front end is on.
And then carefully cable tied the vacuum lines togehter so they cannot rub and chaff
And then spent what was an eternity cleaning the the intercooler and pipes
New 'green' seals for the boost pipe junctions, new chesse heads for the crank pulley and some 'o' rings for the radiator. The 'green' seals are about £6 each and are revised from the older 'black' ones. Legend has it that a key ingredient of the green seals is a special rubber compound from the amazon rainforest that has to be collected by licking the leaves of the special trees and then spitting the juice into a jar. I've just made that up but for the price I'd like to think something exotic has to happen to make them!
And then I spent ages assembling and all the boost pipes off the car as they are difficult when on the car. I wanted to make sure everything was just with them before fitting them
One green one black, I swapped there for two new greens and used the exiting green higher up on a joint which is more accessible.
Getting there
The new rad, Eurocar parts are a funny company. This time I went for a "Magnelli Marelli" rad instead of one of there EIS cheapies. The bonus was when I went to collect it was that it was a OE Valeo item with galvanised header tanks. Nice.
The new radiator, fun was had. I had to cut this lug off to make the A/C rad on top.
Quite pleased with how the cars sits now
For a bit of madness, I like to layout all the bits I've changed and take photos of it!
I spent some time replacing the vacuum hoses that are ordinarily hidden when the front end is on.
And then carefully cable tied the vacuum lines togehter so they cannot rub and chaff
And then spent what was an eternity cleaning the the intercooler and pipes
New 'green' seals for the boost pipe junctions, new chesse heads for the crank pulley and some 'o' rings for the radiator. The 'green' seals are about £6 each and are revised from the older 'black' ones. Legend has it that a key ingredient of the green seals is a special rubber compound from the amazon rainforest that has to be collected by licking the leaves of the special trees and then spitting the juice into a jar. I've just made that up but for the price I'd like to think something exotic has to happen to make them!
And then I spent ages assembling and all the boost pipes off the car as they are difficult when on the car. I wanted to make sure everything was just with them before fitting them
One green one black, I swapped there for two new greens and used the exiting green higher up on a joint which is more accessible.
Getting there
The new rad, Eurocar parts are a funny company. This time I went for a "Magnelli Marelli" rad instead of one of there EIS cheapies. The bonus was when I went to collect it was that it was a OE Valeo item with galvanised header tanks. Nice.
The new radiator, fun was had. I had to cut this lug off to make the A/C rad on top.
Quite pleased with how the cars sits now
For a bit of madness, I like to layout all the bits I've changed and take photos of it!
This thread gives so much win, I commend your 'shedding' 
My company has gone from wanting us to drive a 5 year old car, to 6, to 8 years and this year it sounds like they're going forget the age completely and change to 'management discretion'. All throughout that time my colleague has ran around in a 2003 E39 525d hehe.
I wish I had the skills, tools, knuckles, space and time to attempt these things though... Perhaps it's time to repurpose the back garden!
My company has gone from wanting us to drive a 5 year old car, to 6, to 8 years and this year it sounds like they're going forget the age completely and change to 'management discretion'. All throughout that time my colleague has ran around in a 2003 E39 525d hehe. I wish I had the skills, tools, knuckles, space and time to attempt these things though... Perhaps it's time to repurpose the back garden!
Thank you all...
Went out for a good test drive this morning, the car had been laid up for almost two weeks, which was planned.
The goods...
It feels quicker, probably a placebo effect but I'm likening it to the fact the all off the leaky boost seals are more airtight than they were.
The car feels a lot lot tighter, the old shocks were a lot more worn than you would realise with a car being a daily driver. It is still an old hector of a Passat TDI though, it just feels nicer.
The bads and they really are...
Brake pedal sinks a bit. I need to get the new calipers on quick sharp and the system bled. Funny as I've changed countless sets of pads over the almost thirty years I've been doing my cars. Even when I was young and really didn't know what I was doing I never suffered a sinky pedal after a pad change. Never mind, it just means I'll need to bring forward the caliper work sooner rather than later.
Even worse, after about 15 minutes of driving, huge clouds of vapour out of the internal air vents, so much so that it fogged up the interior of the car. I've no idea on this one at the moment but it didn't have the sweet curry like smell of antifreeze / coolant which is unmistakable. It was more like cat pee.
Went out for a good test drive this morning, the car had been laid up for almost two weeks, which was planned.
The goods...
It feels quicker, probably a placebo effect but I'm likening it to the fact the all off the leaky boost seals are more airtight than they were.
The car feels a lot lot tighter, the old shocks were a lot more worn than you would realise with a car being a daily driver. It is still an old hector of a Passat TDI though, it just feels nicer.
The bads and they really are...
Brake pedal sinks a bit. I need to get the new calipers on quick sharp and the system bled. Funny as I've changed countless sets of pads over the almost thirty years I've been doing my cars. Even when I was young and really didn't know what I was doing I never suffered a sinky pedal after a pad change. Never mind, it just means I'll need to bring forward the caliper work sooner rather than later.
Even worse, after about 15 minutes of driving, huge clouds of vapour out of the internal air vents, so much so that it fogged up the interior of the car. I've no idea on this one at the moment but it didn't have the sweet curry like smell of antifreeze / coolant which is unmistakable. It was more like cat pee.
It is a good job I'm hands on with the car.
Just seen this...
That is a very sweet and acrid tasting drip of coolant on the passenger side floor mat. Sticking my finger above into the heater ducts, they are wet.
Gutted.
As far as I'm aware, the only way to change the heater matrix on these cars is via the full removal of the dashboard and heater box.
Not a job I really want to do. Despite the love for the car, at times like these, the £250 per month PCP and or a company car seem like reasonable prospects.
Just seen this...
That is a very sweet and acrid tasting drip of coolant on the passenger side floor mat. Sticking my finger above into the heater ducts, they are wet.
Gutted.
As far as I'm aware, the only way to change the heater matrix on these cars is via the full removal of the dashboard and heater box.
Not a job I really want to do. Despite the love for the car, at times like these, the £250 per month PCP and or a company car seem like reasonable prospects.
Despite the heater matrix issue, the show must go on...
Gave the old hector a good clean and a polish today along with blacking up all of the lowers, that takes ages.
Clean and shiny engine bay, as clean as the rest of the car.
Lovely new belts and pullies and gubbings
The plan is to buy a new matrix this week and start stripping down on this coming Friday evening which isn't a problem for me as I'll do it under the very well lit car port rather than the garage as I'll need room to work on both sides which I can't do in the garage.
I'm really not looking forward to doing the matrix as I think it is going to be a massive and fiddly job.
Gave the old hector a good clean and a polish today along with blacking up all of the lowers, that takes ages.
Clean and shiny engine bay, as clean as the rest of the car.
Lovely new belts and pullies and gubbings
The plan is to buy a new matrix this week and start stripping down on this coming Friday evening which isn't a problem for me as I'll do it under the very well lit car port rather than the garage as I'll need room to work on both sides which I can't do in the garage.
I'm really not looking forward to doing the matrix as I think it is going to be a massive and fiddly job.
Good news and some bad.
The good is that the car passed its MOT today as expected with no advisory notices at all. The tester, who I know well and have been using for years said, "I don't even need to look at it as I know it will be perfect as you are an OCD nutter. But of course I have to." I liked that.
Found a good Aircon specialist two minutes away who de-gassed the system in readiness for me doing the heater matrix job. A very knowledgeable chap who I had a good chat with about doing the A/C side of the matrix swap, whilst it is all out I'm going to change the evaporator as well so got some tips.
The bad news.
I have to do the heater matrix job, really not looking forward to that. I've currently got the two heater hoses that normally feed the heater matrix bodged together with a short length of 22mm copper pipe. Good job I've got heated seats as the auxillary electric heater despite trying its best only just takes the chill off.
After the MOT I was on route to the tyre shop to get the tracking done, when all of a sudden, BANG and thereafter clouds of smoke. I knew exactly what it was, an intercooler hose had popped off. Serves me right for messing with them doesn't it. The way the I/C unions and clips are designed on these cars is diabolical and must have been done on a Friday afternoon after a long boozy lunch somewhere.
Even worse a replacement will be £50 or that is the cheapest I can find one on German e-bay. It is the shortest I/C hose on the car and seemingly the most expensive.
I've already engineered an elegant solution to the problem in my imagination and have ordered some exhaust clamps, some M6 bolts and will have to dust off the welder. The fix will be a permanent one and will allow me to do the same on all four lower I/C joints for £20 with loads of bolts spare. More on that as and when I do it.
Right, plucking up the courage to start taking the dashboard out....
The good is that the car passed its MOT today as expected with no advisory notices at all. The tester, who I know well and have been using for years said, "I don't even need to look at it as I know it will be perfect as you are an OCD nutter. But of course I have to." I liked that.
Found a good Aircon specialist two minutes away who de-gassed the system in readiness for me doing the heater matrix job. A very knowledgeable chap who I had a good chat with about doing the A/C side of the matrix swap, whilst it is all out I'm going to change the evaporator as well so got some tips.
The bad news.
I have to do the heater matrix job, really not looking forward to that. I've currently got the two heater hoses that normally feed the heater matrix bodged together with a short length of 22mm copper pipe. Good job I've got heated seats as the auxillary electric heater despite trying its best only just takes the chill off.
After the MOT I was on route to the tyre shop to get the tracking done, when all of a sudden, BANG and thereafter clouds of smoke. I knew exactly what it was, an intercooler hose had popped off. Serves me right for messing with them doesn't it. The way the I/C unions and clips are designed on these cars is diabolical and must have been done on a Friday afternoon after a long boozy lunch somewhere.
Even worse a replacement will be £50 or that is the cheapest I can find one on German e-bay. It is the shortest I/C hose on the car and seemingly the most expensive.
I've already engineered an elegant solution to the problem in my imagination and have ordered some exhaust clamps, some M6 bolts and will have to dust off the welder. The fix will be a permanent one and will allow me to do the same on all four lower I/C joints for £20 with loads of bolts spare. More on that as and when I do it.
Right, plucking up the courage to start taking the dashboard out....
looking forward to pics of dash out carnage Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff