Shedding properly, 2004 Passat Estate 1.9 TDI
Discussion
Mine has been parked in the garage for the last couple months since it has had a massive brake failure. I've been abroad on business trips and am still deciding if I want to spend the €1500 VW quoted for a fix, try and find a specialist (anyone knows one in Portugal, Lisbon area?)) or fetching a new car.
It was my brother that took the car to the VW shop and they told him they had to replace the ABS module quoting him the mentioned €1500. He was taking the car up for holidays and when taking it out of the garage it started beeping, displaying "STOP" in the dashboard and the brakes were all messed up. It would only brake at the end of the pedal travel.
It was my brother that took the car to the VW shop and they told him they had to replace the ABS module quoting him the mentioned €1500. He was taking the car up for holidays and when taking it out of the garage it started beeping, displaying "STOP" in the dashboard and the brakes were all messed up. It would only brake at the end of the pedal travel.
Something I hadn't mentioned is that I've got yet another water leak. I've narrowed it down to the new water pump I fitted only six months ago.
Obviously to deal with it, it means doing what is another cambelt change.
Tonight is the night...
Started at 5pm....
A nice leisurely session getting the front end off...
Stereo on. That technics amp I bought in 1986 still going strong in the garage.
This is the leak patch on the garage floor, quite a lot.
Ready to go. I'd already taken the engine covers off the other week when I was investigating the leak so didn't have to do a full job...
The new condenser is still looking good, just a few dead flies on it
I can't remember if I went into detail last time on this, but you simply unfix it and swing it to the side
My newest favourite tool, remote pipe clip remover. Wish I'd bought one of these years ago
And in action, no more slipping pliers
And the front is off
Ready for working on the belts
Just under an hour for that
Then the Wife got home from work so I'm indoors for a little while, a cup of tea blah blah...
I'll go back out at 7...
Obviously to deal with it, it means doing what is another cambelt change.
Tonight is the night...
Started at 5pm....
A nice leisurely session getting the front end off...
Stereo on. That technics amp I bought in 1986 still going strong in the garage.
This is the leak patch on the garage floor, quite a lot.
Ready to go. I'd already taken the engine covers off the other week when I was investigating the leak so didn't have to do a full job...
The new condenser is still looking good, just a few dead flies on it
I can't remember if I went into detail last time on this, but you simply unfix it and swing it to the side
My newest favourite tool, remote pipe clip remover. Wish I'd bought one of these years ago
And in action, no more slipping pliers
And the front is off
Ready for working on the belts
Just under an hour for that
Then the Wife got home from work so I'm indoors for a little while, a cup of tea blah blah...
I'll go back out at 7...
Edited by colin_p on Friday 7th October 19:27
Hmmm...
Velly velly interlesting.
The waterpump is ALL good. On closer inspection and only possible when stripped down a bit and with the alternator removed I found the source and it is the thermostat housing!
For anyone that has monkied about changing the thermostat on one of these, there is a blind side close up against the main carrier bracket that cannot normally be seen.
I can SEE it now though and am not happyas I could have saved a massive load of work.
Pump all good
The cam belt is bone dry and as new.
All is not lost as if you look at the middle pic, there is some evidence of gease escaping from the idler pulley. It is probably nothing but as I've got a new cam belt kit i'll change it.
So much for getting this done this evening, i'll be off to dealers to get a new stat housing, and stat in the morning, doubt they'll be able to get one before Tuesday !
Velly velly interlesting.
The waterpump is ALL good. On closer inspection and only possible when stripped down a bit and with the alternator removed I found the source and it is the thermostat housing!
For anyone that has monkied about changing the thermostat on one of these, there is a blind side close up against the main carrier bracket that cannot normally be seen.
I can SEE it now though and am not happyas I could have saved a massive load of work.
Pump all good
The cam belt is bone dry and as new.
All is not lost as if you look at the middle pic, there is some evidence of gease escaping from the idler pulley. It is probably nothing but as I've got a new cam belt kit i'll change it.
So much for getting this done this evening, i'll be off to dealers to get a new stat housing, and stat in the morning, doubt they'll be able to get one before Tuesday !
Good news!
Off to the dealers this morning to collect a new set of four crank pulley 'cheese' headed bolts along with some trinket type parts I've been meaning to replace for a while. Enquired about the thermostat housing, they didn't have one but did say that the TPS they use did. So they phoned ahead. Got there and they were all ready, all I had to do was pay, very pleased.
A big thanks to Windrush VW Maidenhead.
That said still and expensive day. But I would fancy buying the similar parts for any other make, I'd reckon they'd cost a lot more.
First the vanity trinket items; new windscreen scuttle paneland battery cover
Thermostat housing, thermostat and 'o' ring, another £i gulp!
Genuine thermostat which was insanely expensive !
And for those who don't know, the thermostat twists into the housing via some very delicate clips in the housing which are so so easy to break. Break the clips and you are in a world of pain fitting the stat.
All the time constraints of getting the job done are now out the window, it is now 3pm on a Saturday afternoon and I still haven't started, I might have another cup of tea and only then consider getting out there.
Off to the dealers this morning to collect a new set of four crank pulley 'cheese' headed bolts along with some trinket type parts I've been meaning to replace for a while. Enquired about the thermostat housing, they didn't have one but did say that the TPS they use did. So they phoned ahead. Got there and they were all ready, all I had to do was pay, very pleased.
A big thanks to Windrush VW Maidenhead.
That said still and expensive day. But I would fancy buying the similar parts for any other make, I'd reckon they'd cost a lot more.
First the vanity trinket items; new windscreen scuttle paneland battery cover
Thermostat housing, thermostat and 'o' ring, another £i gulp!
Genuine thermostat which was insanely expensive !
And for those who don't know, the thermostat twists into the housing via some very delicate clips in the housing which are so so easy to break. Break the clips and you are in a world of pain fitting the stat.
All the time constraints of getting the job done are now out the window, it is now 3pm on a Saturday afternoon and I still haven't started, I might have another cup of tea and only then consider getting out there.
Problems problems.
You know I was harping on about how delicate the little thermostat holding clips are in the housing... well I managed to break one, idiot. The one that was left did the job though. I broke it even with the alternator off the engine, idiot.
The SKF cam belt kits comes with both the nuts and the studs for the idler and tensioner, for the Gates kit fitted six months ago it only came with the nuts, I had to buy the studs separately.
Anyway, after the debacle with the snapping of the thermostat housing clip I was looking foward to some nice plain sailing to complete the tasks at hand. Not so.
Pair of locknuts on, the tensioner stud came out without issue, onto the idler stud. Despite only being in for six months the idler stud would not come out. I wound the locknuts tighter and tighter, nope. Eventually the thread on the stud gave up and I would have been in big trouble. Thankfully I have couple of welders and used my MIG to weld the nut to the stud and wind it out.
New studs and nuts that came with the SKF kit, only a five minute job to wind the old ones out and fit the new ones, or so I thought. Nope.
Nut welded onto idler stud, in fact I was so quick in taking the piccy it is still glowing RED hot.
Having burnt myself many many times in the past doing welding, I did remember to pick the stud up NOT with my hands. That saved muchos muchos pain, which was nice. Top tip for any aspiring welders; NEVER weld wearing rigger boots with your trownies tucked into them, they catch the weld spatter like nothing else, been there, done that. These days don't weld much but when I do I favour wearing carpet slippers to do so, you can get them off and get any red hot bits of spatter out of your socks quick sharp. Today I forgot about that I was wearing my steel toe capped boots as I don't own any rigger boots. I was lucky and didn't burn my feet.
You can see the coolant staining on the lower belt cover where it was dripping from. This vindicates my water pump diagnosis.
The six month old Gates idler oozing grease, a good catch finding this now.
Six month old Gates pump bottom, SKF pump top, a nice blue hue
All done, just need to put the front end back on now.
One thing I had previously neglected to do was change the front engine mount from the sponge 1.9 version to the rubber V6 verson. The old sponge one was in very good condition.
Rubber mount on, that was tight!
You know I was harping on about how delicate the little thermostat holding clips are in the housing... well I managed to break one, idiot. The one that was left did the job though. I broke it even with the alternator off the engine, idiot.
The SKF cam belt kits comes with both the nuts and the studs for the idler and tensioner, for the Gates kit fitted six months ago it only came with the nuts, I had to buy the studs separately.
Anyway, after the debacle with the snapping of the thermostat housing clip I was looking foward to some nice plain sailing to complete the tasks at hand. Not so.
Pair of locknuts on, the tensioner stud came out without issue, onto the idler stud. Despite only being in for six months the idler stud would not come out. I wound the locknuts tighter and tighter, nope. Eventually the thread on the stud gave up and I would have been in big trouble. Thankfully I have couple of welders and used my MIG to weld the nut to the stud and wind it out.
New studs and nuts that came with the SKF kit, only a five minute job to wind the old ones out and fit the new ones, or so I thought. Nope.
Nut welded onto idler stud, in fact I was so quick in taking the piccy it is still glowing RED hot.
Having burnt myself many many times in the past doing welding, I did remember to pick the stud up NOT with my hands. That saved muchos muchos pain, which was nice. Top tip for any aspiring welders; NEVER weld wearing rigger boots with your trownies tucked into them, they catch the weld spatter like nothing else, been there, done that. These days don't weld much but when I do I favour wearing carpet slippers to do so, you can get them off and get any red hot bits of spatter out of your socks quick sharp. Today I forgot about that I was wearing my steel toe capped boots as I don't own any rigger boots. I was lucky and didn't burn my feet.
You can see the coolant staining on the lower belt cover where it was dripping from. This vindicates my water pump diagnosis.
The six month old Gates idler oozing grease, a good catch finding this now.
Six month old Gates pump bottom, SKF pump top, a nice blue hue
All done, just need to put the front end back on now.
One thing I had previously neglected to do was change the front engine mount from the sponge 1.9 version to the rubber V6 verson. The old sponge one was in very good condition.
Rubber mount on, that was tight!
All done.... for now.
I just want to drive and not worry about the damned thing.
A quick check with VCDS and I've got a 0.0 syncro angle, no funny noises and everything back together. I just need to drive it about a bit and keep an eye on the coolant level, you need the thermostat to open for that and idling on drive drive isn't going to see that happen.
I know the thread title says shedding properly but I'm doing it wrong as I spend far too much time and money on the car!
If I could edit the title I'd change it to anti-shed shedding or something.
I just want to drive and not worry about the damned thing.
A quick check with VCDS and I've got a 0.0 syncro angle, no funny noises and everything back together. I just need to drive it about a bit and keep an eye on the coolant level, you need the thermostat to open for that and idling on drive drive isn't going to see that happen.
I know the thread title says shedding properly but I'm doing it wrong as I spend far too much time and money on the car!
If I could edit the title I'd change it to anti-shed shedding or something.
Fair play to your dedication, I've actually learned a bit from this thread and your standard of work is incredibly high.
I've got a real soft-spot for my B5.5 and it's great to see some appreciation for the old tubs.
This was in May. Car did over 2600 miles that week and saw Prague and Austria. Didn't miss a beat.
Only on 156k - but still on the original clutch!
Good car.
I've got a real soft-spot for my B5.5 and it's great to see some appreciation for the old tubs.
This was in May. Car did over 2600 miles that week and saw Prague and Austria. Didn't miss a beat.
Only on 156k - but still on the original clutch!
Good car.Edited by msremmert on Saturday 19th November 00:51
msremmert said:
Fair play to your dedication, I've actually learned a bit from this thread and your standard of work is incredibly high.
I've got a real soft-spot for my B5.5 and it's great to see some appreciation for the old tubs.
This was in May. Car did over 2600 miles that week and saw Prague and Austria. Didn't miss a beat.
Only on 156k - but still on the original clutch! Good car.
/quote]
Shoooooosh !
The best kept secret will be out and people on here will stop recommending Saabs and Volvos
I've got a real soft-spot for my B5.5 and it's great to see some appreciation for the old tubs.
This was in May. Car did over 2600 miles that week and saw Prague and Austria. Didn't miss a beat.
Only on 156k - but still on the original clutch!
Good car./quote]
Shoooooosh !
The best kept secret will be out and people on here will stop recommending Saabs and Volvos
problemchild1976 said:
OMG now i've just had to go and buy a hose clip remover!! haha
JJ
Women buy shoes like that. JJ
colin_p said:
Shoooooosh !
The best kept secret will be out and people on here will stop recommending Saabs and Volvos
Ah. Got ya. Passats are w@nk. The best kept secret will be out and people on here will stop recommending Saabs and Volvos
Just had another quick flick through your thread. I'm glad to see I'm the only one who wasn't left swearing when they pulled the door panel off/window off and nothing quite lined up again upon re-fitting.
My window regulator packed in the other day and one of the cables snapped (have fun when that happens) and I drove around for a week like a fool with a suction cup holding my window up. (Protip - get a suction cup!)
It's actually much simpler to just buy a whole new inner door panel with all the cabling done for you and just move everything over.
You'll want this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161213687988
Still. The speaker has failed so it obviously didn't survive the move to the new panel so I need to acquire a new one of them.
Edited by msremmert on Saturday 19th November 23:17
Monkey magic, there simply is not enough.
The battery finally expired so I had replace it. An easy enough job to do....
Pull the rubber off the plenum cover edge and wriggle out the plenum cover
Stranger things happen at sea and I like to make sure the new battery is the same as the old one.
A really habdy little shortcut on doing this is to roll the loom on the bulkhead forward instead of taking the wiper panel off and all the hassel that entails. Start at the right hand side
And roll the sausage fowards
13mm socket on a 10" extension bar (bolt head shown with socket next to it)
Socket on bolt
Battery clamp bracket and bolt, off
Battery part way out, obviously undo the terminals !
Old and new
The carrier will take three different sized batteries if you so wish to upgrade, three holes for the clamp
Bit of rust on the carrier so a quick squirt of the Supertroll !!!
A quick squirt squirted !
And in
And loom rolled back into position
And done
The battery finally expired so I had replace it. An easy enough job to do....
Pull the rubber off the plenum cover edge and wriggle out the plenum cover
Stranger things happen at sea and I like to make sure the new battery is the same as the old one.
A really habdy little shortcut on doing this is to roll the loom on the bulkhead forward instead of taking the wiper panel off and all the hassel that entails. Start at the right hand side
And roll the sausage fowards
13mm socket on a 10" extension bar (bolt head shown with socket next to it)
Socket on bolt
Battery clamp bracket and bolt, off
Battery part way out, obviously undo the terminals !
Old and new
The carrier will take three different sized batteries if you so wish to upgrade, three holes for the clamp
Bit of rust on the carrier so a quick squirt of the Supertroll !!!
A quick squirt squirted !
And in
And loom rolled back into position
And done
A bit late this year but with the help of my teenage sons (it would have been quicker on my own) finally got the winter tyred steels on the car.
Eagle eyed viewers may notice the ice on the ground around the car, that is what prompted the change along with the fact that the side roads (where the Sun has not been on them) here in Maidenhead have remained icy all day. You know it is bad when the normally sub-tropical Thames Valley ices up.
Further good news today, the Mrs Golf passed its MOT with no advisories. Completely expected a full clean pass but I always get a bit edgy at MOT time. In fact, I had all four wheels off the Golf, jetwashed and cleaned it yesterday, the water from which caused the ice!
Anyway, slightly cleaner steels on a very dirty Passat.
Eagle eyed viewers may notice the ice on the ground around the car, that is what prompted the change along with the fact that the side roads (where the Sun has not been on them) here in Maidenhead have remained icy all day. You know it is bad when the normally sub-tropical Thames Valley ices up.
Further good news today, the Mrs Golf passed its MOT with no advisories. Completely expected a full clean pass but I always get a bit edgy at MOT time. In fact, I had all four wheels off the Golf, jetwashed and cleaned it yesterday, the water from which caused the ice!
Anyway, slightly cleaner steels on a very dirty Passat.
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