Discussion
Only fair that I add to this with some competition.
100 quid on ebay, a dent in the rear arch but no rust and just needed a new front bearing, an MOT and 1 tyre. Immediately took it out on track days including the famously drenched Brands Hatch Sunday Service a couple of months ago. It's even got working aircon. Only one engine though...
I love my Z4 coupe but I also love my Puma, so much so I won't be too sad when I keep the latter and sell the former.
100 quid on ebay, a dent in the rear arch but no rust and just needed a new front bearing, an MOT and 1 tyre. Immediately took it out on track days including the famously drenched Brands Hatch Sunday Service a couple of months ago. It's even got working aircon. Only one engine though...
I love my Z4 coupe but I also love my Puma, so much so I won't be too sad when I keep the latter and sell the former.
Edited by paulyv on Friday 9th June 22:58
LARK F1 GTR said:
What a great read! I love stories like this, especially when they're written so well 
Thanks!paulyv said:
Puma stuff
Excellent shedding, sir! Yours looks to be in better condition than mine :-)Update time, with pictures and everything!
That pile of bits I bought above looks like this:
Time to get the front end jacked up. I got giddy with enthusiasm and had the aux belt and tensioner off in no time. I only remembered to take a pic at the end once I'd put the new tensioner and the belt back on. It's looking a bit oily down that side of the engine but I'm pretty sure it's an old leak. The crank seal might have a very slight weep on it was there was a very small amount of fresh oil below it though.
On to brakes and other things. I remembered to take pictures at opportune moments by this point! Here's the old disc that didn't get replaced by the owner who sold it to my friend. Doesn't look too bad on the outside...
The reason it didn't get replaced when the other side did. Rounded bolts. And check out the inside face of the disc!
To get the rounded bolts off I used this excellent box of tricks. I'd recommend these for removing anything rounded, they work amazingly well and grip like you wouldn't believe:
Rounded bolts removed. My 13mm standard socket and impact socket wouldn't touch them but the socket set in the pic above took them off in seconds. Replaced with 2nd hand but not rounded versions from my local scrap yard.
The inside of the old disc that hadn't been changed:
Then, things started getting a bit more serious:
That'll be the shock and spring on the floor then. Suspension top mount and bearing replaced. Everything fell apart and went back together very easily, which was nice. The hub face was cleaned and then I put everything back together:
Extra PistonHeads points if you spotted my new ARB drop link. All looking rather better on this corner of the car. Time to turn the car around and work in the shade for the other side - I'm slightly sun burnt...
Rinse and repeat of the above for passenger side. Here's the new old disc that came on the car. Can you see the massive mistake the PO made when he put this disc on the car? Look at the pads for a clue...
Yep, that's right. Wrong disc size! Difficult to spot until you take the disc and pads off the car. So I'd been using two different size discs, one old and one new, but at least the pads all got changed at the same time as they all had loads of meat and were the same brand.
Passenger hub cleaning:
All cleaned and copper greased:
Fully assembled, ready to go:
That leaves me with new top suspension mounts and bearings, new ARB drop links, new discs and pads, plus a new aux belt tensioner to stop the squeaking when it's cold and damp. I should have bought a new idler pulley too as the current one sounds like a bag of spanners when you spin it, but I'll have to dig deep to afford another nine whole pounds for one
I checked the ARB bushes too while I was there and they'll need doing too if I want to get all pedantic. Uh oh, that's another eight pounds on top! Then there are the rear beam bushes which are definitely past their best - 25 quid for Ebay spec poly bushes or Febi Bilstein OEM replacements. Oh, and the exhaust just started to blow. The back box seems to be rusting through where the pipe goes in to the box. Looks like that's another item for the shopping list. A whole standard system from the cat back is about 70 quid so I'll probably just replace the lot. If I end up doing that lot then I'll have a very sorted Puma, but for now it's a lot better than it was. The brakes are much nicer 
Edited by Gallons Per Mile on Wednesday 2nd August 21:18
If you're still having problems with your heater, try getting a replacement heater board that goes in the dash, they often fail causing erratic behaviour, especially if you've changed the valve itself. One of mine had the issue.
Absolutely love the Puma, I've actually got a Mk5 Fiesta ZS and a Puma Engine/Box/ECU/Loom, waiting to go in, but I bought the Fiesta 5 years ago, and the engine 4 years ago, so not sure when that will happen!
Absolutely love the Puma, I've actually got a Mk5 Fiesta ZS and a Puma Engine/Box/ECU/Loom, waiting to go in, but I bought the Fiesta 5 years ago, and the engine 4 years ago, so not sure when that will happen!
Digitalize said:
If you're still having problems with your heater, try getting a replacement heater board that goes in the dash, they often fail causing erratic behaviour, especially if you've changed the valve itself. One of mine had the issue.
Absolutely love the Puma, I've actually got a Mk5 Fiesta ZS and a Puma Engine/Box/ECU/Loom, waiting to go in, but I bought the Fiesta 5 years ago, and the engine 4 years ago, so not sure when that will happen!
The heater works ok now since I changed the valve again for an OEM spec one from Euro car parts - the Ebay cheapie I bought just wasn't very good. No surprises there!Absolutely love the Puma, I've actually got a Mk5 Fiesta ZS and a Puma Engine/Box/ECU/Loom, waiting to go in, but I bought the Fiesta 5 years ago, and the engine 4 years ago, so not sure when that will happen!
It's an easy engine swap as everything just bolts in. Get cracking!!
Another update!
I started looking around at prices for an exhaust as it was obvious I'd need one soon. Euro car parts only wanted £53 for a whole cat back system including a clamp, so I thought I'd just get on with it!
The old centre section had seen better days anyway:
Looks like it might well have been the original, so it did well to last this long, look a Ford stamp on the middle box!
The backbox was a Bosal unit and was definitely the casuse of the blow:
I broke it to get it off the car easily. It didn't take much persuasion:
It was also going rotten along the seam. Definitely needed to be changed:
Annoyingly I haven't taken any pics of the Klarius system that replaced it. I'm not that happy with the fit, the backbox is sitting a bit awkwardly and the centre section hangs a tiny bit lower than perhaps it should do. Still, it does the job and cost very little, so I can't complain too much. Only took a small amount of time for me to fit too.
I started looking around at prices for an exhaust as it was obvious I'd need one soon. Euro car parts only wanted £53 for a whole cat back system including a clamp, so I thought I'd just get on with it!
The old centre section had seen better days anyway:
Looks like it might well have been the original, so it did well to last this long, look a Ford stamp on the middle box!
The backbox was a Bosal unit and was definitely the casuse of the blow:
I broke it to get it off the car easily. It didn't take much persuasion:
It was also going rotten along the seam. Definitely needed to be changed:
Annoyingly I haven't taken any pics of the Klarius system that replaced it. I'm not that happy with the fit, the backbox is sitting a bit awkwardly and the centre section hangs a tiny bit lower than perhaps it should do. Still, it does the job and cost very little, so I can't complain too much. Only took a small amount of time for me to fit too.
Edited by Gallons Per Mile on Wednesday 2nd August 21:19
I've been through the thread and re-linked all the images after the Photobucket fail.
Nothing new to report, other than I had a small problem with the starter motor trying to part company with the gearbox. 2 of the 3 bolts holding the starter to the gearbox went MIA and the 3rd bolt, also the main earthing point back to the battery was loose. Symptoms included not starting at 5am when I wanted to go to work and slow wipers in the rain. I decided this was an actual problem so had a look under the car the other day. Tightened the one remaining bolt and found a spare bolt that would do the trick in the garage - to replace one of the MIA ones. Starting 100% on the button again, wipers work properly again and the windows are definitely quicker to go up too! Cost £0 and about 10 mins under the car.
I probably should go to a scrap yard and find another bolt for the starter motor, but not before a quick trip to the most northern part of Scotland. From Kent. Watch this space for pics.
Over 16k miles and counting in this shed so far. Cam belt still working... Wheels changed for original ones with tyres swapped around to make a set of 4 that aren't worn out.
Nothing new to report, other than I had a small problem with the starter motor trying to part company with the gearbox. 2 of the 3 bolts holding the starter to the gearbox went MIA and the 3rd bolt, also the main earthing point back to the battery was loose. Symptoms included not starting at 5am when I wanted to go to work and slow wipers in the rain. I decided this was an actual problem so had a look under the car the other day. Tightened the one remaining bolt and found a spare bolt that would do the trick in the garage - to replace one of the MIA ones. Starting 100% on the button again, wipers work properly again and the windows are definitely quicker to go up too! Cost £0 and about 10 mins under the car.
I probably should go to a scrap yard and find another bolt for the starter motor, but not before a quick trip to the most northern part of Scotland. From Kent. Watch this space for pics.
Over 16k miles and counting in this shed so far. Cam belt still working... Wheels changed for original ones with tyres swapped around to make a set of 4 that aren't worn out.
I would disagree, i prefer the fan blade ones.
I was lucky enough to get a Puma FOC from my step-mam a couple of years ago.
It was as good to drive as everyone says, absolutely brilliant fun to drive, great engine, steering, brilliant gearchange. Poor brakes.
It was a base red 1.7 with no extras, but that didn't matter. Very little rust compared to some.
Had it for a few months and some great drives in it but when the MOT was due, it needed an absolute load of work done, sadly simply wasn't worth it so the car went for approx £175 on ebay after that.
it was also very economical and never returned less than 40mpg average on a tank, which included some hard driving. Not fast but just enough to be fun.
Loved the car and would have another without hesitation.
I was lucky enough to get a Puma FOC from my step-mam a couple of years ago.
It was as good to drive as everyone says, absolutely brilliant fun to drive, great engine, steering, brilliant gearchange. Poor brakes.
It was a base red 1.7 with no extras, but that didn't matter. Very little rust compared to some.
Had it for a few months and some great drives in it but when the MOT was due, it needed an absolute load of work done, sadly simply wasn't worth it so the car went for approx £175 on ebay after that.
it was also very economical and never returned less than 40mpg average on a tank, which included some hard driving. Not fast but just enough to be fun.
Loved the car and would have another without hesitation.
Back from my North Scotland trip. I'm quite lucky in that my parents live there so accommodation and food was free!
Car on the drive after almost 700 miles in one day:
Went for a walk around a local wind farm the next day. You know it's remote when the only road in sight is a track!
Also, signs like this are an amusement when you're used to excellent signal down south:
Had a trip to the most northerly Weatherspoons in the country. There aren't many drinking establishments up this way that actually resemble a nice pub, so this did the trick one rainy afternoon:
Stopped to take a pic of the zip wire that goes above a nice little beach. This is on the NC500 route for anyone interested - western end of the North coast. The road I'm standing on is actually the main A road for the area. How quaint
View from the top of Castle Varrich. Well, it's called a castle, but it's more of a small tower no bigger in footprint than a shed! This is looking out over the Kyle of Tongue:
Small beach approx 10 mins walk from my parents' house:
The start of my journey home. This is the large beach the other side of the village. It stretches out to the left, behind the sand bank on the left of the pic. It's miles long and always has bugger all people on it because access is annoying - about a mile walk along the side of the river on the left of the pic before you actually get to the beach. There's even an old shipwreck buried in the sand. Totally worth the exercise.
Nice mountains before you enter Tongue going West. I've been to the top of one of them:
Some other scenery South of the coast heading inland on my way home. Not on the NC500 so I doubt many people see this. Lovely scenery and you really are in the middle of nowhere. I was the only car on the road for a long time:
The Puma was in its element on roads like that. The first 580 odd boring miles of the trip were worth it just for the last 100 or so from Inverness all the way North. Vice versa on the way home too, though I did have a blast through Rutland/ Northamptonshire's beautiful countryside as there was an accident on the A1 and I didn't want to sit in traffic.
Zero maintenance required apart from a pint of oil to top up what was used. 1400ish trouble free miles, and my pence per mile cost has dropped in to the 5's now
Car on the drive after almost 700 miles in one day:
Went for a walk around a local wind farm the next day. You know it's remote when the only road in sight is a track!
Also, signs like this are an amusement when you're used to excellent signal down south:
Had a trip to the most northerly Weatherspoons in the country. There aren't many drinking establishments up this way that actually resemble a nice pub, so this did the trick one rainy afternoon:
Stopped to take a pic of the zip wire that goes above a nice little beach. This is on the NC500 route for anyone interested - western end of the North coast. The road I'm standing on is actually the main A road for the area. How quaint
View from the top of Castle Varrich. Well, it's called a castle, but it's more of a small tower no bigger in footprint than a shed! This is looking out over the Kyle of Tongue:
Small beach approx 10 mins walk from my parents' house:
The start of my journey home. This is the large beach the other side of the village. It stretches out to the left, behind the sand bank on the left of the pic. It's miles long and always has bugger all people on it because access is annoying - about a mile walk along the side of the river on the left of the pic before you actually get to the beach. There's even an old shipwreck buried in the sand. Totally worth the exercise.
Nice mountains before you enter Tongue going West. I've been to the top of one of them:
Some other scenery South of the coast heading inland on my way home. Not on the NC500 so I doubt many people see this. Lovely scenery and you really are in the middle of nowhere. I was the only car on the road for a long time:
The Puma was in its element on roads like that. The first 580 odd boring miles of the trip were worth it just for the last 100 or so from Inverness all the way North. Vice versa on the way home too, though I did have a blast through Rutland/ Northamptonshire's beautiful countryside as there was an accident on the A1 and I didn't want to sit in traffic.
Zero maintenance required apart from a pint of oil to top up what was used. 1400ish trouble free miles, and my pence per mile cost has dropped in to the 5's now
Today was preventative maintenance day.
I decided to have a look at the passenger sill as it was looking decidedly scabby in places - particularly where I'd done that quick sill repair last year and where I'd ground a scabby bit down and given it a lick of the wrong colour paint. It didn't hold up very well with the winter weather and water must have got in to start making the area rust again. I went all out and spent fifteen pounds on some Halfords paint and lacquer as I wasn't sure if I should even bother doing this job! Nevertheless, it might be a shed but I wanted the sill to be slightly more presentable.
Out came the grinder with a strip-and-clean disc, and I got stuck in. There are a couple of 'interesting' bits where the metal has gone very thin and actually perforated slightly towards the rear end of the sill, which was a bit annoying but not really unexpected. The lip of the wheel arch where the sill meets the arch is starting to fall apart too. While I was there I also ground back a small scab on the arch and a dent/scratch that had started to rust too.
Next step, rust converter spread liberally around anything bare metal. At this point, I remembered to take pics!
Ground back rusty bits and rust converter applied:
Some tools, and my handy ex-gym mat to make the drive more comfortable:
Top quality paint with no expensespared spent. I had the primer hanging around in the garage anyway. It's probably the best quality of those three cans!
Rubbed back with P320, masked and primed:
Base coat on - looked exactly like the primer when I was spraying it, I could hardly tell where I'd been:
Finished article, with lacquer on and masking removed:
Halfords colour match isn't really the best but I guess it's better than using the random grey paint I found in the garage last time. It'll do for a while longer now, but really I'll need to investigate the rear end of that sill and decide if I can be bothered to get the welder out or just drive the car until it fails an MOT spectacularly on rust. The driver's rear arch is getting rather crusty too. I might take the rear end of the interior apart this week and have a look from the inside first at both that arch and the passenger sill. That'll probably help me make my mind up with what to do. Annoyingly I've just ordered some rear bushes, steering column linkage and a service kit for it as those bits all need doing soon. Only £85 all in, and I've got MOT until next June, so plenty of time to decide what I want to do.
I decided to have a look at the passenger sill as it was looking decidedly scabby in places - particularly where I'd done that quick sill repair last year and where I'd ground a scabby bit down and given it a lick of the wrong colour paint. It didn't hold up very well with the winter weather and water must have got in to start making the area rust again. I went all out and spent fifteen pounds on some Halfords paint and lacquer as I wasn't sure if I should even bother doing this job! Nevertheless, it might be a shed but I wanted the sill to be slightly more presentable.
Out came the grinder with a strip-and-clean disc, and I got stuck in. There are a couple of 'interesting' bits where the metal has gone very thin and actually perforated slightly towards the rear end of the sill, which was a bit annoying but not really unexpected. The lip of the wheel arch where the sill meets the arch is starting to fall apart too. While I was there I also ground back a small scab on the arch and a dent/scratch that had started to rust too.
Next step, rust converter spread liberally around anything bare metal. At this point, I remembered to take pics!
Ground back rusty bits and rust converter applied:
Some tools, and my handy ex-gym mat to make the drive more comfortable:
Top quality paint with no expense
Rubbed back with P320, masked and primed:
Base coat on - looked exactly like the primer when I was spraying it, I could hardly tell where I'd been:
Finished article, with lacquer on and masking removed:
Halfords colour match isn't really the best but I guess it's better than using the random grey paint I found in the garage last time. It'll do for a while longer now, but really I'll need to investigate the rear end of that sill and decide if I can be bothered to get the welder out or just drive the car until it fails an MOT spectacularly on rust. The driver's rear arch is getting rather crusty too. I might take the rear end of the interior apart this week and have a look from the inside first at both that arch and the passenger sill. That'll probably help me make my mind up with what to do. Annoyingly I've just ordered some rear bushes, steering column linkage and a service kit for it as those bits all need doing soon. Only £85 all in, and I've got MOT until next June, so plenty of time to decide what I want to do.
Yay, some more work on the Puma in pictorial form!
This time it's rear bushes. These are notorious for being a complete pain the anus. As usual, giddy with excitement, I cracked on with the job in hand and forgot to start taking pics immediately, so we pick up from the beginning of my swear-athon getting the first bush out. The process of removal was still being finialised with this bush, as you will see from the state it was in!
As if by magic, car jacked up, exhaust off it's hangers to provide room to get the bolt out, and a bush casing looking a bit worse for wear:
Hack saw, chisel (or in my case one half of the forky style ball joint splitter), 1 x 4lb lump hammer, 12 x swearing and 7 x brute force later:
Yay! One down, one to go, bush removal process now finalised and plan of action for bush number two will be more refined and efficient. Here's the hole where bush number one was:
Ok, time for that refinied and slick plan for bush number two. Start by drilling out the rubber and plastic in the centre of the bush:
Push out metal centre now you've loostened it up. I used an old screw driver and my trusty 4lb hammer to persuade it through the other side of the bush:
One neat hack saw cut, afformentioned screwdriver/lump hammer combo, no swearing this time. Technique 1 - 0 bush. Nice and neat:
The hole where that bush used to live:
Now for the fun part. New bushes need to be pressed in. Luckily I've got a bearing/bush pushing kit that I've never actually used before. Mainly because I don't own the car I bought it for and never did the work I thought I might end up doing before I sold it... But it came in useful for the Puma as the bits in the kit were the perfect size for this job! I copper greased the new bush and the hole it was going in to, set up the kit and wound it in very easily:
And after a couple of light taps with the lump hammer I had the bush all the way home with no drama at all:
Better try out the other side then:
Simples! Insert the copper greased metal sleeve, also copper grease the faces of the bush:
Jack rear beam back up, use lump hammer to align everything just-so, push bolt through bush and do the nut up. Rinse and repeat for the other side:
Handling restored to awesome, no more unpredicable wobble on sweepy corners although a tad more vibration as I opted for Ebay spec poly bushes. We'll see how they go, but right now they're great!
This time it's rear bushes. These are notorious for being a complete pain the anus. As usual, giddy with excitement, I cracked on with the job in hand and forgot to start taking pics immediately, so we pick up from the beginning of my swear-athon getting the first bush out. The process of removal was still being finialised with this bush, as you will see from the state it was in!
As if by magic, car jacked up, exhaust off it's hangers to provide room to get the bolt out, and a bush casing looking a bit worse for wear:
Hack saw, chisel (or in my case one half of the forky style ball joint splitter), 1 x 4lb lump hammer, 12 x swearing and 7 x brute force later:
Yay! One down, one to go, bush removal process now finalised and plan of action for bush number two will be more refined and efficient. Here's the hole where bush number one was:
Ok, time for that refinied and slick plan for bush number two. Start by drilling out the rubber and plastic in the centre of the bush:
Push out metal centre now you've loostened it up. I used an old screw driver and my trusty 4lb hammer to persuade it through the other side of the bush:
One neat hack saw cut, afformentioned screwdriver/lump hammer combo, no swearing this time. Technique 1 - 0 bush. Nice and neat:
The hole where that bush used to live:
Now for the fun part. New bushes need to be pressed in. Luckily I've got a bearing/bush pushing kit that I've never actually used before. Mainly because I don't own the car I bought it for and never did the work I thought I might end up doing before I sold it... But it came in useful for the Puma as the bits in the kit were the perfect size for this job! I copper greased the new bush and the hole it was going in to, set up the kit and wound it in very easily:
And after a couple of light taps with the lump hammer I had the bush all the way home with no drama at all:
Better try out the other side then:
Simples! Insert the copper greased metal sleeve, also copper grease the faces of the bush:
Jack rear beam back up, use lump hammer to align everything just-so, push bolt through bush and do the nut up. Rinse and repeat for the other side:
Handling restored to awesome, no more unpredicable wobble on sweepy corners although a tad more vibration as I opted for Ebay spec poly bushes. We'll see how they go, but right now they're great!
Edited by Gallons Per Mile on Sunday 3rd September 21:54
I really enjoy watching people work on older, cheaper cars - much more fun than seeing someone polishing their ferrari or similar.
Puma looks great, I've always loved the car and as I'm fairly handy with the spanners but have never learnt how to weld so am tempted to pick up an MOT rust failure for super cheap then metal glue it back together as a learning project. It's great seeing you bring this one back to decent condition!
Just one word of advice though, copper slip isn't really a lubricant, more of an antisize, so you're better off using a lithium based marine grease or similar to reduce friction and stop squeaking. Although for an ebay spec bush it's not worth worrying about too much.
Puma looks great, I've always loved the car and as I'm fairly handy with the spanners but have never learnt how to weld so am tempted to pick up an MOT rust failure for super cheap then metal glue it back together as a learning project. It's great seeing you bring this one back to decent condition!
Just one word of advice though, copper slip isn't really a lubricant, more of an antisize, so you're better off using a lithium based marine grease or similar to reduce friction and stop squeaking. Although for an ebay spec bush it's not worth worrying about too much.
Cheers! I find it great fun paying peanuts for parts and fitting them myself on shed motors such as this. I'm having just as much fun as I did in the E46 M3 I had for the two years before this car albeit in a different way.
Thanks for the tip about copper grease and bushes. I'd always been instructed to use copper grease as it's an anti-seize, but I can always swap to something different if there's an advantage in doing it.
ETA:
RE welding. Definitely do what you suggested - Puma's are so cheap it's just silly and welding isn't that hard to learn. I'm not that great (as can be seen in this thread) but it hardly matters on a car so cheap, so I'll use it to hone my skills.
I've still not checked out the rear of the passenger sill properly yet, but I did glance at it again when doing the bushes. I feel a mini weld-athon coming on soon... Good news is I checked out the inner sill as it's right next to the mount for the rear beam and it still looks solid.
Thanks for the tip about copper grease and bushes. I'd always been instructed to use copper grease as it's an anti-seize, but I can always swap to something different if there's an advantage in doing it.
ETA:
RE welding. Definitely do what you suggested - Puma's are so cheap it's just silly and welding isn't that hard to learn. I'm not that great (as can be seen in this thread) but it hardly matters on a car so cheap, so I'll use it to hone my skills.
I've still not checked out the rear of the passenger sill properly yet, but I did glance at it again when doing the bushes. I feel a mini weld-athon coming on soon... Good news is I checked out the inner sill as it's right next to the mount for the rear beam and it still looks solid.
Edited by Gallons Per Mile on Monday 4th September 11:34
New rear bushes seem to be doing the job nicely still. I think I've got used to the slight extra vibration now, but the feel from the rear end of the car is much better. Nothing new to report. I've put some more miles on with general driving to work and the car's still going strong.
I thought I'd add some screen shots of my costs log I've been keeping for the car. Every shed man should have one as an accurate way to see whether the car is meeting budget expectations and if your pence/mile figure is decent. Call me sad but I find this side of shedding quite fun too.
Here's the main page, all costs laid out, notes and oil top-ups too:
I made a second page as I was messing around with graphs one day. The workings on the side are just to get the data in to something graph-able:
I've done around 1k more miles since the last time I updated the log. That'll bring the PPM number down a tad. More updates coming soon. As you can see, I've bought a basic service kit and we're due a service sometime soon. It'll be done whenever the car next needs an oil top-up.
On the subject of oil top-ups, this engine uses just over a pint every 1200-1500 miles. Not bad at all. I've owned quite a few of these engine in various cars (Ka conversion, Mk4 Fiesta conversion and Pumas) and they all used some oil. Consistancy is key, and this one's pretty consistant in usage.
I thought I'd add some screen shots of my costs log I've been keeping for the car. Every shed man should have one as an accurate way to see whether the car is meeting budget expectations and if your pence/mile figure is decent. Call me sad but I find this side of shedding quite fun too.
Here's the main page, all costs laid out, notes and oil top-ups too:
I made a second page as I was messing around with graphs one day. The workings on the side are just to get the data in to something graph-able:
I've done around 1k more miles since the last time I updated the log. That'll bring the PPM number down a tad. More updates coming soon. As you can see, I've bought a basic service kit and we're due a service sometime soon. It'll be done whenever the car next needs an oil top-up.
On the subject of oil top-ups, this engine uses just over a pint every 1200-1500 miles. Not bad at all. I've owned quite a few of these engine in various cars (Ka conversion, Mk4 Fiesta conversion and Pumas) and they all used some oil. Consistancy is key, and this one's pretty consistant in usage.
I like the idea of keeping a tally but think it would soon rule out shedding.
Just had to buy a condenser, battery, discs and pads & a starter motor for my S50 D5 and thats come to around £450 alone incl a free re gas at work. Car was £1000. That's without service bits I have done and tyres. Only covered around 3000 miles also as I have hardly been using it. Poor shedding from me!
Just had to buy a condenser, battery, discs and pads & a starter motor for my S50 D5 and thats come to around £450 alone incl a free re gas at work. Car was £1000. That's without service bits I have done and tyres. Only covered around 3000 miles also as I have hardly been using it. Poor shedding from me!
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