The Free-Esta1.25
Discussion
There's a few aftermarket cams that will provide higher peak power, Shawspeed being the main one, their SS4s will get you to 150ish with no inlet.
Unfortunately, you've swapped in the harder engine to make power after FRP spec, the 1.6 is much more widely tuned, mainly because there's no VCT (or whatever the acronym is) and that rebuild parts are often massively cheaper.
Either way I'd still also be looking out for some cheap ST150 front brakes, the 260mm ones that are standard on the Puma aren't the best, even with stock power and fast road use.
Unfortunately, you've swapped in the harder engine to make power after FRP spec, the 1.6 is much more widely tuned, mainly because there's no VCT (or whatever the acronym is) and that rebuild parts are often massively cheaper.
Either way I'd still also be looking out for some cheap ST150 front brakes, the 260mm ones that are standard on the Puma aren't the best, even with stock power and fast road use.
Reading this thread brings back happy memories.
The FRP inlet is a complete replacement for the standard unit. I had one fitted to my old 1.7 Fiesta:
When the 1.7 first went in it ran the standard Puma inlet manifold together with FRP-spec cams and management which, coupled to a Janspeed designed for the 1.4 Fiesta, produced a solid 150bhp on the rollers. With head work, an FRP inlet, less restrictive Milletek 4-2-1 manifold, exhaust and cat and management tweaks it was knocking on 170bhp, but it was the way that it made the power that I loved the most about it. They’re really rev-happy engines, even in standard form and a properly sorted 1.7 Fiesta is fabulous fun.
It’s still the car I wish I’d never sold.
Other forum users have already given sound advice but if you do look to replace the ECU make sure that you also buy the little red transponder to fit into your existing ignition key to save headaches with the Ford standard fit immobiliser.
The FRP inlet is a complete replacement for the standard unit. I had one fitted to my old 1.7 Fiesta:
When the 1.7 first went in it ran the standard Puma inlet manifold together with FRP-spec cams and management which, coupled to a Janspeed designed for the 1.4 Fiesta, produced a solid 150bhp on the rollers. With head work, an FRP inlet, less restrictive Milletek 4-2-1 manifold, exhaust and cat and management tweaks it was knocking on 170bhp, but it was the way that it made the power that I loved the most about it. They’re really rev-happy engines, even in standard form and a properly sorted 1.7 Fiesta is fabulous fun.
It’s still the car I wish I’d never sold.
Other forum users have already given sound advice but if you do look to replace the ECU make sure that you also buy the little red transponder to fit into your existing ignition key to save headaches with the Ford standard fit immobiliser.
Looks nice and standard with just a subtle bit of lowering. I smiled at the PIESTA number plate as well. 
JonJon2015 said:
Reading this thread brings back happy memories.
The FRP inlet is a complete replacement for the standard unit. I had one fitted to my old 1.7 Fiesta:
When the 1.7 first went in it ran the standard Puma inlet manifold together with FRP-spec cams and management which, coupled to a Janspeed designed for the 1.4 Fiesta, produced a solid 150bhp on the rollers. With head work, an FRP inlet, less restrictive Milletek 4-2-1 manifold, exhaust and cat and management tweaks it was knocking on 170bhp, but it was the way that it made the power that I loved the most about it. They’re really rev-happy engines, even in standard form and a properly sorted 1.7 Fiesta is fabulous fun.
It’s still the car I wish I’d never sold.
Other forum users have already given sound advice but if you do look to replace the ECU make sure that you also buy the little red transponder to fit into your existing ignition key to save headaches with the Ford standard fit immobiliser.
That's a tool. I love it.The FRP inlet is a complete replacement for the standard unit. I had one fitted to my old 1.7 Fiesta:
When the 1.7 first went in it ran the standard Puma inlet manifold together with FRP-spec cams and management which, coupled to a Janspeed designed for the 1.4 Fiesta, produced a solid 150bhp on the rollers. With head work, an FRP inlet, less restrictive Milletek 4-2-1 manifold, exhaust and cat and management tweaks it was knocking on 170bhp, but it was the way that it made the power that I loved the most about it. They’re really rev-happy engines, even in standard form and a properly sorted 1.7 Fiesta is fabulous fun.
It’s still the car I wish I’d never sold.
Other forum users have already given sound advice but if you do look to replace the ECU make sure that you also buy the little red transponder to fit into your existing ignition key to save headaches with the Ford standard fit immobiliser.
Does anyone know how to disable the abs and traction control warning lights on the dash? My Fiesta has neither so the Puma ECU records an error. I'd be happy to just stick a bit of tape over it but the abs light is an MOT fail and it's due in November.
I've been told I can do it with a diesel heater relay, has anyone got any details on that?
I've also found a used 1.6 gearbox on a popular auction site for £60, which would make doing the final drive and 5th gear upgrade pretty cost effective. Anyone know how hard that is? I'm probably only a four spanner guy...
I've been told I can do it with a diesel heater relay, has anyone got any details on that?
I've also found a used 1.6 gearbox on a popular auction site for £60, which would make doing the final drive and 5th gear upgrade pretty cost effective. Anyone know how hard that is? I'm probably only a four spanner guy...
I took the clocks out and stuck a bit of tape behind the filter. Not a proper 'fix' but it did the job and I was able to forget that they were ever illuminated.
As for the gearbox, why not just go with the standard 1.7 one, especially if you're planning on sticking with the 15" Puma rims? The FRP differs little from it (low gears shot peened but I never thought the FRP produced power necessary to worry about not having that that) and plenty of people have put much more power through the IB5 without issue.
As for the gearbox, why not just go with the standard 1.7 one, especially if you're planning on sticking with the 15" Puma rims? The FRP differs little from it (low gears shot peened but I never thought the FRP produced power necessary to worry about not having that that) and plenty of people have put much more power through the IB5 without issue.
Edited by JonJon2015 on Wednesday 22 June 12:32
Here's something I put together a while ago.
Digitalize said:
I always end up finding these on some random site so thought I'd make this thread and a few quick calculations. 70 in 5th being cruising speed on a motorway, 6800rpm being standard rev limit, 7250rpm being FRP rev limit.
1.6 Box:
FD - 4.25
1st - 3.58
2nd - 1.93
3rd - 1.28
4th - 0.95
5th - 0.76
70mph in 5th - 3350rpm
6800rpm in 5th - 142mph
7250rpm in 5th - 151mph
1.7 Box:
FD - 3.82
1st - 3.15
2nd - 1.93
3rd - 1.41
4th - 1.11
5th - 0.88
70mph in 5th - 3500rpm
6800rpm in 5th - 136mph
7250rpm in 5th - 145mph
FRP Box:
FD - 4.25
1st - 3.15
2nd - 1.93
3rd - 1.41
4th - 1.11
5th - 0.88
70mph in 5th - 3900rpm
6800rpm in 5th - 123mph
7250rpm in 5th - 131mph
This is the result in pictorial form (speeds are estimate and depends on your wheels)
1.6 Box:
FD - 4.25
1st - 3.58
2nd - 1.93
3rd - 1.28
4th - 0.95
5th - 0.76
70mph in 5th - 3350rpm
6800rpm in 5th - 142mph
7250rpm in 5th - 151mph
1.7 Box:
FD - 3.82
1st - 3.15
2nd - 1.93
3rd - 1.41
4th - 1.11
5th - 0.88
70mph in 5th - 3500rpm
6800rpm in 5th - 136mph
7250rpm in 5th - 145mph
FRP Box:
FD - 4.25
1st - 3.15
2nd - 1.93
3rd - 1.41
4th - 1.11
5th - 0.88
70mph in 5th - 3900rpm
6800rpm in 5th - 123mph
7250rpm in 5th - 131mph
This is the result in pictorial form (speeds are estimate and depends on your wheels)
amancalledrob said:
Does anyone know how to disable the abs and traction control warning lights on the dash? My Fiesta has neither so the Puma ECU records an error. I'd be happy to just stick a bit of tape over it but the abs light is an MOT fail and it's due in November.
If your car never had ABS, the light not showing wouldn't be a fail, as it wouldn't have had one.Digitalize said:
amancalledrob said:
Does anyone know how to disable the abs and traction control warning lights on the dash? My Fiesta has neither so the Puma ECU records an error. I'd be happy to just stick a bit of tape over it but the abs light is an MOT fail and it's due in November.
If your car never had ABS, the light not showing wouldn't be a fail, as it wouldn't have had one.ETA: my car's never had abs, but the dash unit is used in cars that do and therefore has an abs light. I didn't know this until it came on
Edited by amancalledrob on Wednesday 22 June 13:11
amancalledrob said:
I've been advised by a tester that the light being illuminated is a fail, whether or not there's an abs fitted. I would very much like to be proved wrong as it'll save me some effort
In theory yes, but it only really applies when it is standard equipment.Either way what I meant was your original dash would not have had an ABS light, so you could just put tape over it or whatever, and not need to worry about the fact it wouldn't show at ignition on because the original car wouldn't have had.
I might be wrong and the original dash would have had an ABS light though, can't remember if my first one had one.
Digitalize said:
In theory yes, but it only really applies when it is standard equipment.
Either way what I meant was your original dash would not have had an ABS light, so you could just put tape over it or whatever, and not need to worry about the fact it wouldn't show at ignition on because the original car wouldn't have had.
I might be wrong and the original dash would have had an ABS light though, can't remember if my first one had one.
I've still got the original dash in there, and that's where the light is. I was quite surprised when I saw it as it didn't occur to me that other cars in the range would have had abs in 1998Either way what I meant was your original dash would not have had an ABS light, so you could just put tape over it or whatever, and not need to worry about the fact it wouldn't show at ignition on because the original car wouldn't have had.
I might be wrong and the original dash would have had an ABS light though, can't remember if my first one had one.
Great work OP :-) I've got a MK4 myself, albeit the 1.4 version and so far have decided to stick with the standard engine so concentrated on suspension/brakes etc instead.
Hows your car standing up in terms of the shell? Rust is most definitely the enemy on these now and I've seen a few with shocking amounts of corrosion, from sills/rear panels/door shuts/floors etc.
JonJon your mk4 looked great :-) is it still about?
In terms of the dash, I had my cluster out recently to tape up the airbag light and fit a new front cover, and I can't remember either whether my non ABS car is equipped with an ABS light or not! It is easy to just tape it up though, however make sure you do it first time.. the cluster is a bit of a ballache to get out if you still have the standard steering wheel so not a job you want to do twice should the bulb still partially illuminate!! (yes it happened to me!)
If you need a little guide on removing the cluster let me know as I've done it so many times now!
Hows your car standing up in terms of the shell? Rust is most definitely the enemy on these now and I've seen a few with shocking amounts of corrosion, from sills/rear panels/door shuts/floors etc.
JonJon your mk4 looked great :-) is it still about?
In terms of the dash, I had my cluster out recently to tape up the airbag light and fit a new front cover, and I can't remember either whether my non ABS car is equipped with an ABS light or not! It is easy to just tape it up though, however make sure you do it first time.. the cluster is a bit of a ballache to get out if you still have the standard steering wheel so not a job you want to do twice should the bulb still partially illuminate!! (yes it happened to me!)
If you need a little guide on removing the cluster let me know as I've done it so many times now!
Digitalize said:
Does it light up with the original ECU in? If it doesn't you should be fine to just blank it over.
It doesn't, so that's the route I'll take. Thanks for all your help on thisdaniel-5zjw7 said:
Great work OP :-) I've got a MK4 myself, albeit the 1.4 version and so far have decided to stick with the standard engine so concentrated on suspension/brakes etc instead.
Hows your car standing up in terms of the shell? Rust is most definitely the enemy on these now and I've seen a few with shocking amounts of corrosion, from sills/rear panels/door shuts/floors etc.
JonJon your mk4 looked great :-) is it still about?
In terms of the dash, I had my cluster out recently to tape up the airbag light and fit a new front cover, and I can't remember either whether my non ABS car is equipped with an ABS light or not! It is easy to just tape it up though, however make sure you do it first time.. the cluster is a bit of a ballache to get out if you still have the standard steering wheel so not a job you want to do twice should the bulb still partially illuminate!! (yes it happened to me!)
If you need a little guide on removing the cluster let me know as I've done it so many times now!
The shell's in really good condition, apart from a couple of small niggles - cosmetically, it's awful, and that's one of the things I like about it. The roof looks like all the previous owners have had handbags, it's been keyed down the driver's side, and sideswiped by a delivery truck a few months ago leaving red paint on the rear arch. I did talk to the guy but it didn't go any further as I'd be embarrassed rolling up to a bodyshop in itHows your car standing up in terms of the shell? Rust is most definitely the enemy on these now and I've seen a few with shocking amounts of corrosion, from sills/rear panels/door shuts/floors etc.
JonJon your mk4 looked great :-) is it still about?
In terms of the dash, I had my cluster out recently to tape up the airbag light and fit a new front cover, and I can't remember either whether my non ABS car is equipped with an ABS light or not! It is easy to just tape it up though, however make sure you do it first time.. the cluster is a bit of a ballache to get out if you still have the standard steering wheel so not a job you want to do twice should the bulb still partially illuminate!! (yes it happened to me!)
If you need a little guide on removing the cluster let me know as I've done it so many times now!
There's a bit of powdery rust in the boot, but I'm not sure where it's come from as there are no structural issues in there. It looks more like minor surface rust where the paint's worn through a bit, and there's a little bubble about 5mm wide on the body behind the door, above the level of the rear arch.
Sills and all other problem areas were checked before the Puma event and are good.
I'll take you up on that guide for the clocks if that's ok?
Hi,
Apologies for the delayed response! If you haven't already done this..
1. Disconnect battery
2. remove top and bottom sections of the steering wheel cowl
3. undo single screw on top of haz/indicator stalk pack and lift this out of the way (can just hang down into the footwell)
4. remove instrument cluster surround which incorporates air vents etc, there are two screws in the top above the instruments, and one hiding behind a plastic cover in the very corner beside the passenger air vent, there are then two metal clips that hold it in around the steering cowl area, if this trim has been removed before these will probably be broken anyway, if not the trim will need a good tug. Once removed again it can hang out of the way above the stereo head unit.
5. Remove the small torx screws holding the actual cluster in.
6. Tilt the cluster forward and disconnect the main loom connector and the other small tape connector
7. with a bit of manoeuvring work the cluster out past the steering wheel, and head to the house/shed!
8. undo the small torx screws on the back of the cluster which will then allow you to split the casing from the circuit board/bulbs etc, double check the bulb location to ensure you cover the right bulb!
9. cover accordingly, on my second attempt I used black nail varnish as well as tape on top of that.
10. Reconnect cluster, and reconnect battery to test. Once OK disconnect battery again and refit in reverse of removal, note you want the battery disconnected when refitting the haz/indicator stalk pack or you'll constantly trigger the horn as you try to get the pack back on!
Apologies for the delayed response! If you haven't already done this..
1. Disconnect battery
2. remove top and bottom sections of the steering wheel cowl
3. undo single screw on top of haz/indicator stalk pack and lift this out of the way (can just hang down into the footwell)
4. remove instrument cluster surround which incorporates air vents etc, there are two screws in the top above the instruments, and one hiding behind a plastic cover in the very corner beside the passenger air vent, there are then two metal clips that hold it in around the steering cowl area, if this trim has been removed before these will probably be broken anyway, if not the trim will need a good tug. Once removed again it can hang out of the way above the stereo head unit.
5. Remove the small torx screws holding the actual cluster in.
6. Tilt the cluster forward and disconnect the main loom connector and the other small tape connector
7. with a bit of manoeuvring work the cluster out past the steering wheel, and head to the house/shed!
8. undo the small torx screws on the back of the cluster which will then allow you to split the casing from the circuit board/bulbs etc, double check the bulb location to ensure you cover the right bulb!
9. cover accordingly, on my second attempt I used black nail varnish as well as tape on top of that.
10. Reconnect cluster, and reconnect battery to test. Once OK disconnect battery again and refit in reverse of removal, note you want the battery disconnected when refitting the haz/indicator stalk pack or you'll constantly trigger the horn as you try to get the pack back on!
daniel-5zjw7 said:
Hi,
Apologies for the delayed response! If you haven't already done this..
2. remove top of the steering wheel cowl
4. remove instrument cluster surround which incorporates air vents etc, there are two screws in the top above the instruments, and one hiding behind a plastic cover in the very corner beside the passenger air vent, there are then two metal clips that hold it in around the steering cowl area, if this trim has been removed before these will probably be broken anyway, if not the trim will need a good tug. Once removed again it can hang out of the way above the stereo head unit.
5. Remove the small torx screws holding the actual cluster in.
6. Tilt the cluster forward
9. cover accordingly, on my second attempt I used black nail varnish as well as tape on top of that.
Thanks for coming back to me - I actually managed to get this done with only the steps I've quoted, figuring it out as I went. I found that without disconnecting the cluster, I could tilt it forward enough to remove the traction control light on the left. I couldn't quite reach the abs light, so I packed the recess it sits in with duct tape and that's worked a treat Apologies for the delayed response! If you haven't already done this..
2. remove top of the steering wheel cowl
4. remove instrument cluster surround which incorporates air vents etc, there are two screws in the top above the instruments, and one hiding behind a plastic cover in the very corner beside the passenger air vent, there are then two metal clips that hold it in around the steering cowl area, if this trim has been removed before these will probably be broken anyway, if not the trim will need a good tug. Once removed again it can hang out of the way above the stereo head unit.
5. Remove the small torx screws holding the actual cluster in.
6. Tilt the cluster forward
9. cover accordingly, on my second attempt I used black nail varnish as well as tape on top of that.
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