Mondeo ST200 Limited - most painful purchase ever
Discussion
oobster said:
Cracking car OP.
I wonder if Ford will make a 'cooking' version of the latest Mondeo. I know you can get a Vignale with the 240ps engine, but I don't really see that a successor to the ST200/ST24.
I drove one of these. Decidedly underwhelming performance for 240ps, bit surprised at how limp it felt. Same in the S-Max too. Interestingly the dealer said sales of the new Mondeo were pitiful.I wonder if Ford will make a 'cooking' version of the latest Mondeo. I know you can get a Vignale with the 240ps engine, but I don't really see that a successor to the ST200/ST24.
And there goes the crankshaft rear oil seal. Gearbox out and subframe drop required to do the job. f
k.
It's treading on very, very thin ice. In fact were it not for a helpful cash donation from the parents then it was going to be moved on. Absolutely fking sick.
Problem is, I can't find anything to replace it with that I actually want.
k.It's treading on very, very thin ice. In fact were it not for a helpful cash donation from the parents then it was going to be moved on. Absolutely f
king sick.Problem is, I can't find anything to replace it with that I actually want.
dme123 said:
oobster said:
Cracking car OP.
I wonder if Ford will make a 'cooking' version of the latest Mondeo. I know you can get a Vignale with the 240ps engine, but I don't really see that a successor to the ST200/ST24.
I drove one of these. Decidedly underwhelming performance for 240ps, bit surprised at how limp it felt. Same in the S-Max too. Interestingly the dealer said sales of the new Mondeo were pitiful.I wonder if Ford will make a 'cooking' version of the latest Mondeo. I know you can get a Vignale with the 240ps engine, but I don't really see that a successor to the ST200/ST24.
The newer mk5 is meant to not be as good a steer as the mk4 and that is a heavy beast in comparison to the mk2. The mk4 has much better body control but it needs it. It really struggles to change direction in comparison. While I don't really miss my 2.0i mk2 it would be rather different if comparing to the mk2 ST (although I couldn't have one due to the age and potential for failure).
I drove quite a few Mk3's when they were new and never thought them quite as good as the mk2 to drive (although better in almost every way as a car) didn't try an ST220 though. I was also rather underwhelmed with the 2.0 mk4 and frankly with the only "hot" version if the mk5 being an auto I'll not be buying a Mondeo next time.
Podie in 2007 said:
The headlights and interior lights on the car are “pulsing”… which is annoying to say the least. irked
Cleaned up a couple of rusty looking earth connections by the nearside headlight cluster, but to no avail. At fellow PH’er GregE240’s suggestion I took the car to Halfords for their free battery check, which confirmed that the alternator was doing it’s job and that the battery was only holding 52% charge.
There was no receipt in the service history for a new battery, so figured the car was due for one. Decided to replace the existing Motorcraft [model / xxAH / xxxCCA) battery with a Halfords heavy duty battery rated at 70AH and 640CCA – even has a 3 year warranty. (Standard replacement battery rated at 60AH and 540CCA). £94.99 and twenty minutes later, it’s all fitted.
Good news is that the headlights don’t pulse when driving, and that hot starting is a lot quicker. The pulsing interior lights are still there when the car is at idle, but I’ve now discovered there is a Ford TSB to resolve the issue..! irked
TSB 053/2001
Summary
Should a customer express concern about flickering headlamps, wavering illumination of the instrument cluster, interior lighting and audio unit the probable cause is an extremely high resistance in the battery wiring harness from the central junction box (under the bonnet) to the B+ terminal on the alternator. To rectify the concern an additional cable should be installed.
Part number for this cable - 1133503
Apparently the high resistance from the 7.5A fuse to the alternator multi plug causes it to "pulse" so the new loom does away with this by taking a new feed direct from the main battery cable on the back of the alternator.
The part, which is little more than a piece of wire with a metal terminal on the end, and a bit of protective sheathing has to be soldered into the alternator multi plug.
Cleaned up a couple of rusty looking earth connections by the nearside headlight cluster, but to no avail. At fellow PH’er GregE240’s suggestion I took the car to Halfords for their free battery check, which confirmed that the alternator was doing it’s job and that the battery was only holding 52% charge.
There was no receipt in the service history for a new battery, so figured the car was due for one. Decided to replace the existing Motorcraft [model / xxAH / xxxCCA) battery with a Halfords heavy duty battery rated at 70AH and 640CCA – even has a 3 year warranty. (Standard replacement battery rated at 60AH and 540CCA). £94.99 and twenty minutes later, it’s all fitted.
Good news is that the headlights don’t pulse when driving, and that hot starting is a lot quicker. The pulsing interior lights are still there when the car is at idle, but I’ve now discovered there is a Ford TSB to resolve the issue..! irked
TSB 053/2001
Summary
Should a customer express concern about flickering headlamps, wavering illumination of the instrument cluster, interior lighting and audio unit the probable cause is an extremely high resistance in the battery wiring harness from the central junction box (under the bonnet) to the B+ terminal on the alternator. To rectify the concern an additional cable should be installed.
Part number for this cable - 1133503
Apparently the high resistance from the 7.5A fuse to the alternator multi plug causes it to "pulse" so the new loom does away with this by taking a new feed direct from the main battery cable on the back of the alternator.
The part, which is little more than a piece of wire with a metal terminal on the end, and a bit of protective sheathing has to be soldered into the alternator multi plug.
It continues to live on, just.
I've got the new oil seal, and I'm doing both driveshafts/CV's whilst it's in bits, simply because I kept hearing occasional clicking near full lock after the last driveshaft replacement. Not sure whether the other one is on it's way, or whether the replacement was simply bad. Easier to replace both at zero labour charge than spend time trying to trace it.
Also going to replace the track rods because that has improved steering vibration in other cars I've had.
It's gradually being rebuilt, this round of surgery is scheduled to commence on Friday...
I've got the new oil seal, and I'm doing both driveshafts/CV's whilst it's in bits, simply because I kept hearing occasional clicking near full lock after the last driveshaft replacement. Not sure whether the other one is on it's way, or whether the replacement was simply bad. Easier to replace both at zero labour charge than spend time trying to trace it.
Also going to replace the track rods because that has improved steering vibration in other cars I've had.
It's gradually being rebuilt, this round of surgery is scheduled to commence on Friday...
bigbob77 said:
Sorry it's being such a PITA
Once you've got those bits sorted, it's only a matter of days until the next thing goes. Just get rid. I'll give you £200 for it after you fix the broken bits and you can go get something reliable.
Hmm, that's a kind offer Once you've got those bits sorted, it's only a matter of days until the next thing goes. Just get rid. I'll give you £200 for it after you fix the broken bits and you can go get something reliable.
The only thing that changed my mind was when someone messaged me to come and view it, my immediate reaction was very much along the lines of "I'm not giving you the benefit of all my hard work and expense". It made me realise it needs another chance.
I also think it has an intermittent IMRC fault, relocating it away from the engine helped but hasn't fully sorted it. I just tried calling an expert that I've used before in Sunderland, but he's now retired. So may end up just sourcing a new one from the USA where they appear to be a little cheaper...
Fastdruid said:
It's only an auto and slower than the older 216ps 2.5T.
The newer mk5 is meant to not be as good a steer as the mk4 and that is a heavy beast in comparison to the mk2. The mk4 has much better body control but it needs it. It really struggles to change direction in comparison. While I don't really miss my 2.0i mk2 it would be rather different if comparing to the mk2 ST (although I couldn't have one due to the age and potential for failure).
I drove quite a few Mk3's when they were new and never thought them quite as good as the mk2 to drive (although better in almost every way as a car) didn't try an ST220 though. I was also rather underwhelmed with the 2.0 mk4 and frankly with the only "hot" version if the mk5 being an auto I'll not be buying a Mondeo next time.
I can't see much reason to buy the Mk5, certainly not on the powertrain front. That 240ps engine was a real disappointment and a bit step down from the 5 pot in the old one. I'd agree that the Mk2 was the best to drive, particularly with the duratec V6. Benefits of low weight and a smaller footprint on the road I suppose. Always fancied a go of an ST200.The newer mk5 is meant to not be as good a steer as the mk4 and that is a heavy beast in comparison to the mk2. The mk4 has much better body control but it needs it. It really struggles to change direction in comparison. While I don't really miss my 2.0i mk2 it would be rather different if comparing to the mk2 ST (although I couldn't have one due to the age and potential for failure).
I drove quite a few Mk3's when they were new and never thought them quite as good as the mk2 to drive (although better in almost every way as a car) didn't try an ST220 though. I was also rather underwhelmed with the 2.0 mk4 and frankly with the only "hot" version if the mk5 being an auto I'll not be buying a Mondeo next time.
Blue Oval84 said:
I also think it has an intermittent IMRC fault, relocating it away from the engine helped but hasn't fully sorted it. I just tried calling an expert that I've used before in Sunderland, but he's now retired. So may end up just sourcing a new one from the USA where they appear to be a little cheaper...
Don't waste money on a new one! I fixed mine in 10 minutes with a cheap Maplins solder kit and a 50p capacitor from eBay.There was an excellent guide on a Mondeo forum back then, 2008ish, not sure if it's still kicking about. Try and find it though... Seriously easy job! There's just a single capacitor to replace on the circuit board.
Also, that was the day I learned that if you slip and stab your hand with a hot solder iron tip, the hole won't bleed because it cauterises at the same time as stabbing you!
bigbob77 said:
Don't waste money on a new one! I fixed mine in 10 minutes with a cheap Maplins solder kit and a 50p capacitor from eBay.
There was an excellent guide on a Mondeo forum back then, 2008ish, not sure if it's still kicking about. Try and find it though... Seriously easy job! There's just a single capacitor to replace on the circuit board.
Also, that was the day I learned that if you slip and stab your hand with a hot solder iron tip, the hole won't bleed because it cauterises at the same time as stabbing you!
Ewww, nasty.There was an excellent guide on a Mondeo forum back then, 2008ish, not sure if it's still kicking about. Try and find it though... Seriously easy job! There's just a single capacitor to replace on the circuit board.
Also, that was the day I learned that if you slip and stab your hand with a hot solder iron tip, the hole won't bleed because it cauterises at the same time as stabbing you!
As it happens my brother is excellent with his soldering so I could definitely get him to do it, the problem will be getting it out at home, it's now tucked out of the way under the battery tray. I guess this will necessitate jacking it up.
Given how awkward it all looks I think the best we could hope for would be to somehow get it out from under there and perhaps just work on it in situ to save disconnecting the actuator wire?
The walkthrough is still available online though
IIRC it's easy enough to pull the circuit board out of the casing. So if you can reach the casing, you can get the board out and do it somewhere more comfortable.
I had my V6 for a couple of months before I realised the extra valves weren't opening. I was a bit disappointed with the performance but thought that's just how it was. Fixed the IMRC and it was an instant transformation! I don't think the revs dropped below 4.5k the rest of the time I owned it.
I had my V6 for a couple of months before I realised the extra valves weren't opening. I was a bit disappointed with the performance but thought that's just how it was. Fixed the IMRC and it was an instant transformation! I don't think the revs dropped below 4.5k the rest of the time I owned it.
dme123 said:
It's worth moving it to a different mounting place to stop it getting cooked again, it's a really piss poor location to put it.
Already done, problem is I think it's too late. I have the same symptoms as those on the wiki guide ("power comes and goes in stutters, like you're driving through puddles"), no doubt to be eventually followed with complete failure.Urgh.
So the oil seal turned out to be a leaking slave cylinder (despite the fact it's <2K miles old and was a Ford part).
Thankfully that was fixed and the clutch survived, got it back on Monday.
Today the alternator appears to have failed. Again.
The garage have suggested it may be a bad earth, but if so I've no idea how it would come and go throughout the rev range. Anyway, it's going back in tomorrow.
To say I'm getting fed up of this is a bit of an understatement.
So the oil seal turned out to be a leaking slave cylinder (despite the fact it's <2K miles old and was a Ford part).
Thankfully that was fixed and the clutch survived, got it back on Monday.
Today the alternator appears to have failed. Again.
The garage have suggested it may be a bad earth, but if so I've no idea how it would come and go throughout the rev range. Anyway, it's going back in tomorrow.
To say I'm getting fed up of this is a bit of an understatement.
Gutted for you OP - reminds me of why I stopped buying Fords after my sh*tty Sierra Sapphire 2.0 GLSi!
Poxy thing would never start when cold or damp, ran roughly most of the time, spark plugs were buried over 6 inches in the head, HT leads failed regularly, ABS light appeared at random - just a miserable ownership experience all round! Certainly cured my love of Fords!
Solved that problem when I sold it, and haven't had another Ford since! No point anyway as they are all FWD turbo cr*p now............!
Poxy thing would never start when cold or damp, ran roughly most of the time, spark plugs were buried over 6 inches in the head, HT leads failed regularly, ABS light appeared at random - just a miserable ownership experience all round! Certainly cured my love of Fords!
Solved that problem when I sold it, and haven't had another Ford since!
No point anyway as they are all FWD turbo cr*p now............!I had 2 ST24s as my second and third cars. Loved them. This ST200 is gorgeous. The flickering lights may be down to a wire on the alternator....I took mine to a ford garage who were talking about a whole new wiring loom and taking the engine out?!?!?!?! Turns out ford had put a bulletin out about the problem and actually was a £15 part and 10 mins to fix. These still turn my head when I see one....love the front end. Good job on sticking with her.
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