BMW E46 330dA Touring

[helix402]

New V5C (got the "A" removed):

[JakeT]

An early M57 is 2926cc though?

[helix402]

Certainly is, the DVLA lie!

[CornedBeef]

Really good read Helix, I'm personally invested as someone with an increasingly leggy 335D! How long do you reckon you'll hold onto the car for now? 300k has to be on the to do list!

[helix402]

Glad you enjoyed it. 300k is the aim. I don't know if the car has ever had a turbo, it works fine. If it fails it will be a tad annoying. Used ones are cheap but a bit of a gamble. I don't foresee any engine problems. The floor is solid around the subframe. I've got a plate kit on the shelf it it does crack.
I'm undecided on the eventual replacement, the obvious choice is an E91 330d. Having the auto box due puts me off the 335d a little, though they are great cars. Another option is an E65 730d. I can't have a 5 as too many are having lots of extra M badges and stripes stuck on.

[CornedBeef]

Yeah I'm a big fan of the engine, the box does sometimes hamper the experience though. I've had it all serviced, time will tell how well it lasts haha!

[helix402]

New n/s/r ball joint today:













Jobs are so much easier with the correct tools. Note the nice silver hub grease, the wheel arch repair is holding up well too. We even put a new grommet in the inner arch repair panel.

[Sim89]

I'd have killed for that tool. Did all 4 of my rears last year with no special tools..st of a job!

[helix402]

I've had it a few years, it was quite cheap, probably Chinese. But it works and I grease the thread ever so often. Took an hour for 1 bush.

[Jakg]

Sim89 said:

I'd have killed for that tool. Did all 4 of my rears last year with no special tools..st of a job!

helix402 said:

I've had it a few years, it was quite cheap, probably Chinese. But it works and I grease the thread ever so often. Took an hour for 1 bush.

I did the same job on my MG ZT (uses the same rear suspension design and the same bush). In preparation I made a tool similar to that... no chance.

Had to use a 10 ton bearing puller to get them out in the end!

[helix402]

Two jobs today, new front pads. The old ones weren't worn out, I just got fed up of brake dust. I fitted ATE ceramic pads.

On removing the old Bosch front pads I found they were cracked.



New pads:






Cracked pads:



Also changed the aux belt tensioner, here is obviously failed one (original):

[JakeT]

Let us know how the ceramic pads treat you. If they're good I may be in for a set.

[helix402]

Will post some feedback on the pads.

[helix402]

Ceramic pad update (only fitted on the front), they work and there is less brake dust. Simple as that.

Rear wheel (gen BMW pads and discs):



Front wheel (unknown make discs, ceramic pads):

[JakeT]

Much better! Is performance better than the regular pads, also?

[helix402]

The pads feel like the performance is the same as the old standard pads.

[Vidmapi]

Hello, im doing same swap auto-->manual on my 330d. This is one thread i found about diesel swap so far. Mechanical part is clear for me but i have some questions about wiring. Can you share more details about that? Where i should run wires and where to connect them. Cheers.

[helix402]

Hi, wiring needed from memory is:

Clutch switch, two wires to brake pedal switch, one wire to DDE

Reverse light switch, remove reverse light relay (blue one in e box), run two wires from reverse light switch to relay holder

No ews wiring needed, just reprogramm ews with PA Soft (very cheap from eBay)

Currently moving house so I'm afraid it may take me a while to dig out my wiring notes. If I can find them I'll post them here for you. Good luck with the swop.

Edited by helix402 on Wednesday 23 August 17:46

[helix402]

You'll also need a wiring plug to fit onto the clutch master cylinder for the position sensor.
This was from someone else's write up:



You'd have to check if the wiring is correct for the 330d (ignore the ews connection). I figured the wiring out by looking it up using DIS (never got the hang of WDS). You need to look up clutch switch to check the pins and wire colours, then the plug and pin no at the DDE. Likewise for the reverse light switch. You need 1 BMW connector for the DDE.

BMW make an adaptor lead for the slave cylinder which I think has the correct plug on. If you leave the gearbox ecu connected and seal and tie the gearbox wiring out of the way you don't need to reprogram the central coding code.

This is the clutch switch lead:



I have a new spare one if you want to make an offer via pm for it.

Edited by helix402 on Wednesday 23 August 17:59

[helix402]

Now on approx 245k miles, averaging an indicated 49mpg since it became a manual: