2001 MG ZT 2.5 V6

Author
Discussion

mattyc69

330 posts

153 months

Sunday 4th September 2016
quotequote all
daemon said:
No one has given me any great amount of confidence on an absolute diagnosis which worries me....
Just remove the drop links and anti roll bar (or just tie it up so it can't rotate) and go for a quick drive, if the noise has gone you know what the problem is.

Ambleton

6,680 posts

193 months

Sunday 4th September 2016
quotequote all
I'm right in thinking these are the rover KV6 engine?

If so, have the timing belts been done? If not, this alone will cost almost the same as the rest of the car....

There is one large one at the front of the engine which links the crank to one of the cams on each side, then 2 secondary belts which link the DOHC together at the back of the engine and is an "engine out" job to do....


daemon

Original Poster:

35,882 posts

198 months

Sunday 4th September 2016
quotequote all
mattyc69 said:
daemon said:
No one has given me any great amount of confidence on an absolute diagnosis which worries me....
Just remove the drop links and anti roll bar (or just tie it up so it can't rotate) and go for a quick drive, if the noise has gone you know what the problem is.
Good point. I'll have my guy do that. Cheers!

daemon

Original Poster:

35,882 posts

198 months

Sunday 4th September 2016
quotequote all
Ambleton said:
I'm right in thinking these are the rover KV6 engine?

If so, have the timing belts been done? If not, this alone will cost almost the same as the rest of the car....

There is one large one at the front of the engine which links the crank to one of the cams on each side, then 2 secondary belts which link the DOHC together at the back of the engine and is an "engine out" job to do....
Already done as far as i am aware, cheers!

daemon

Original Poster:

35,882 posts

198 months

Sunday 11th September 2016
quotequote all
Jakg said:
Handbrake - handbrakes are generally rubbish, but can be adjusted to be passable (but it's fiddly). If adjustment fails (i.e. it must be excessively adjusted at the handbrake lever end), the compensator has stretched - based on age I would change this anyway - it's not expensive. The cables never brake, and the shoes rarely go wrong. Again - I'd start with the common solutions first than the more typical approach - lots and LOTS of owners have thrown money away in the past repairing common faults that have literally been misdiagnosed hundreds of times!
After a fair bit of fooking about, i managed to get a modified compensator off a guy who mods them over on one of the dedicated forums. You dont seem to be able to buy them new any more so it wasnt the "click buy-it-now" experience i had hoped for. Nobody sells modded ones on ebay either and Rimmer Bros dont have them either.

So it, goes to get fitted tomorrow along with the suspension bits. I've a friend whos going to take it up for MOT for me when i'm away - the guy who sold it to me and i think he feels a bit bad that it needs so much work - so hopefully i'll be coming home to an MOT, clunk free MG.

Will be good to get the old girl on the road.

daemon

Original Poster:

35,882 posts

198 months

Saturday 24th September 2016
quotequote all
Well thats the MG through MOT today, with the modified compensator fitted which resolved the handbrake issue!

The rattling is cured as well. We're not sure whether it was the top mounts (both had degraded rubber bushings that were hanging off) or the struts (both were basically fked) but either way its all sorted now.

Many thanks to those who contributed with resolutions - its good to have the old girl back on the road!

Next steps are fitting new badges front and rear, then refurbing the alloys myself and fitted new wheel nuts and thats as much as i hope to ever spend on it!

Its a bit of an "in between" car - too young to really be worth spending the money i have spent on it, but too old to not need repairs - and those repairs get expensive quick as many parts are now only available from specialists.


Jakg

3,478 posts

169 months

Saturday 24th September 2016
quotequote all
daemon said:
Next steps are fitting new badges front and rear, then refurbing the alloys myself and fitted new wheel nuts and thats as much as i hope to ever spend on it!
Be careful what wheel nuts you buy - most of the new ones don't last very long. The best ones are the "Cowley" (early) Rover 75 ones. Have some kind of oil infused magic that means they just don't really tarnish.

daemon

Original Poster:

35,882 posts

198 months

Saturday 24th September 2016
quotequote all
Jakg said:
daemon said:
Next steps are fitting new badges front and rear, then refurbing the alloys myself and fitted new wheel nuts and thats as much as i hope to ever spend on it!
Be careful what wheel nuts you buy - most of the new ones don't last very long. The best ones are the "Cowley" (early) Rover 75 ones. Have some kind of oil infused magic that means they just don't really tarnish.
Cheers. Thanks for the tip!