2006 Vauxhall Monaro CV8 S/C
Discussion
Following on from a thread in the HSV & Monaro section ( HERE I recently purchased a car that I had been wanting for a very long time now - a Monaro.
Although I had always wanted the 6.0 VXR model, the later ones, I missed out on them at their cheapest. After a few chats with a friend who owns one of the VXRs, I had started to warm to the idea of also looking at the 'base' 5.7 CV8 models as well.
That was when this one was found, the fact it had a lot of choice upgrades, most notably the Supercharger, and that it was up for an extremely good price made it almost impossible to not consider. A deal was done, and here we go.
The Spec on purchase was;
2006 Holden/Vauxhall Monaro CV8
Odyssey Blue
5.7 LS1 V8
Harrop 112 Supercharger/Intercooler - 9psi Boost
Wortec/Powerflow Exhaust System (Wortec centre, Powerflow backboxes)
K&N Panel Filter
LS7 Clutch/Flywheel kit
Ripshifter
AP Racing Brakes - 6piston/363mm Front : 4piston/342mm Rear inc. braided hoses
Pedders 'Low' suspension kit
Pedders Drop Links
Pedders Quickrack kit
Monkfish 'Road Response Pac'
Monkfish 'Rear End Pac'
'Holden Design' rear Spoiler
Monaro VXR style rear light clusters
Sony aftermarket HU
It also has been converted to and the ability to run on LPG. This isn't something I am still decided on - I know little about it, it adds a lot more complexity to the engine bay, and adds a new system to maintain or repair. However, fuel is ~54p p/litre, and this really is hard to ignore.
As it has so much already done, it needs very little doing to it in terms of upgrading things. So, the plan is to tidy a few bits up, add some personal touches, and try to use it as much as possible.
Anyway, a couple of pictures for posterity for the thread - more from collection are in the link at the start;
IMG_4249 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
IMG_4235 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
IMG_4228 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
Within a week, I had removed a bulk of Audio gear that I hadn't bothered photographing previously as it was rather poorly installed - 2x Amps mounted to the support frame of the fuel tank, and a Sub-box loose in the rear footwell, all connected to some poor wiring, plus the normal Phono/Power/Earth cabling.
Upon ripping into it all, I found a few signs of 'questionable' workmanship, some of the OEM Speaker wiring has been cut but these can be resolved in due course - all of the front speakers are currently working so that is good enough for me tbh.
Had to remove some of the trim to get all of the access etc, but that's pretty easy once you find all the screws/clips.
Now though, I have a fully useable boot space! As massive as it is....
A few days after collecting it, I realised I needed to do a test; to make sure it would fit in the Garage.
It just gets through the door with the mirrors tucked in - however, once it's through, there's LOADS of room.
The car also had some quite rubbish 'Supercharged' badges on the wings/dash - I removed them all as well as the 'V8' ones;
Next plan, replace stupid slogan plates that had been fitted and overhaul the Wortec backboxes I was given with the car - possibly getting some different tail pipes for them too.
Although I had always wanted the 6.0 VXR model, the later ones, I missed out on them at their cheapest. After a few chats with a friend who owns one of the VXRs, I had started to warm to the idea of also looking at the 'base' 5.7 CV8 models as well.
That was when this one was found, the fact it had a lot of choice upgrades, most notably the Supercharger, and that it was up for an extremely good price made it almost impossible to not consider. A deal was done, and here we go.
The Spec on purchase was;
2006 Holden/Vauxhall Monaro CV8
Odyssey Blue
5.7 LS1 V8
Harrop 112 Supercharger/Intercooler - 9psi Boost
Wortec/Powerflow Exhaust System (Wortec centre, Powerflow backboxes)
K&N Panel Filter
LS7 Clutch/Flywheel kit
Ripshifter
AP Racing Brakes - 6piston/363mm Front : 4piston/342mm Rear inc. braided hoses
Pedders 'Low' suspension kit
Pedders Drop Links
Pedders Quickrack kit
Monkfish 'Road Response Pac'
Monkfish 'Rear End Pac'
'Holden Design' rear Spoiler
Monaro VXR style rear light clusters
Sony aftermarket HU
It also has been converted to and the ability to run on LPG. This isn't something I am still decided on - I know little about it, it adds a lot more complexity to the engine bay, and adds a new system to maintain or repair. However, fuel is ~54p p/litre, and this really is hard to ignore.
As it has so much already done, it needs very little doing to it in terms of upgrading things. So, the plan is to tidy a few bits up, add some personal touches, and try to use it as much as possible.
Anyway, a couple of pictures for posterity for the thread - more from collection are in the link at the start;
IMG_4249 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrIMG_4235 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrIMG_4228 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrWithin a week, I had removed a bulk of Audio gear that I hadn't bothered photographing previously as it was rather poorly installed - 2x Amps mounted to the support frame of the fuel tank, and a Sub-box loose in the rear footwell, all connected to some poor wiring, plus the normal Phono/Power/Earth cabling.
Upon ripping into it all, I found a few signs of 'questionable' workmanship, some of the OEM Speaker wiring has been cut but these can be resolved in due course - all of the front speakers are currently working so that is good enough for me tbh.
Had to remove some of the trim to get all of the access etc, but that's pretty easy once you find all the screws/clips.
Now though, I have a fully useable boot space! As massive as it is....
A few days after collecting it, I realised I needed to do a test; to make sure it would fit in the Garage.
It just gets through the door with the mirrors tucked in - however, once it's through, there's LOADS of room.
The car also had some quite rubbish 'Supercharged' badges on the wings/dash - I removed them all as well as the 'V8' ones;
Next plan, replace stupid slogan plates that had been fitted and overhaul the Wortec backboxes I was given with the car - possibly getting some different tail pipes for them too.
Lastnight went to a local car meet - 100 or so different things there, mostly ScEnEd out Jap/Euro boxes covered in tacky and/or FB Group stickers.
It got a lot of positive reaction, one of only 2 V8 cars there, the other being some Dodge thing.
Afterwards, went to a quiet retail park to try to get some night photos - forgot my Tripod, so had to rest the camera on things (phone, lens cap, straps etc) to keep it steady on exposure, but they generally came out ok.
IMG_4264 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
IMG_4287 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
IMG_4289 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
IMG_4294 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
IMG_4299 by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
It got a lot of positive reaction, one of only 2 V8 cars there, the other being some Dodge thing.
Afterwards, went to a quiet retail park to try to get some night photos - forgot my Tripod, so had to rest the camera on things (phone, lens cap, straps etc) to keep it steady on exposure, but they generally came out ok.
IMG_4264 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrIMG_4287 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrIMG_4289 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrIMG_4294 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrIMG_4299 by Dave Gritt, on FlickrSome guy owns one of these at the work next to where I work. You can hear him coming a mile off, and when he starts it up it sounds like nothing else!
Also I always remember one awesome fact about these from 5th Gear I think, that they can do 70mph in 1st gear! Have you tried it!? Probably not a good idea to try but it's a cool stat!
Also I always remember one awesome fact about these from 5th Gear I think, that they can do 70mph in 1st gear! Have you tried it!? Probably not a good idea to try but it's a cool stat!
TheAngryDog said:
Looks a nice car this one. How does it compare to your old Vectra? I know it's different engine, driven wheels etc. I bet it moves a bit!
Do you have any power estimates?
Its much different. It definitely shifts, but you can feel that the car is heavy. Much heavier than the Vectra without a doubt.Do you have any power estimates?
Power delivery is smooth & constant, as you'd expect using a Supercharger. Makes a lot of noise, and just goes.
I'm still getting used to it really though.
I have an RR sheet from when the 9psi upgrade was carried out - 485hp (not sure if @ Wheels or Fly).....
HybridAero said:
Sounds like an amazing spec. Does the lpg run on light throttle and cruising and switch over to petrol when you cane it or can it deliver full boost and revs on lpg? I guess it'll average 20 mpg on vpower daily driving so 35 mpg in real terms is achievable with lpg.
Seemingly the LPG will run the full range, but I am not 100% sure about the specifics of if it runs full 'Dual Fuel, on full boost or exclusively Petrol or LPG....The LPG system runs it's own ECU for control and only runs when the engine is at a suitable temperature.
I don't think the Economy is that good unless on a long run at almost constant speed. Luckily, it won't be a daily runner. I seem to be able to do 100-125 miles on the Gas, at ~£20 a fill... I've read that consumption is marginally worse on Gas than Petrol.
This weeks upgrade... Lights that aren't dim candles.
Fitted HID & LEDs today.
Bumper off and looked at options - other owners have run the wiring through the access cap, but this makes their presence obvious as well as a bit untidy IMO. Spotted an alternative possibility though... The large flat space on the housings underside. This tied in nicely with the Ballasts also being able to fit on bodywork below the Headlight.
Drilled a 23mm hole for the wiring entry, and assembled the internals as needed. The exposed connections in the pics were then taped individually and then together to protect them after the pics were taken. Grommet was a lovely snug fit with the 23mm hole....
Tested. Nicely done.
Also, from inside the engine bay, stealthy. Air box sits in the space behind too, where the camera is roughly. Hides it all further!
Repeated on other side. Same layouts etc, very hidden still, moreso due to the battery placement tbh! Also fitted Diadem indicators - those who have seen recent cars of mine may realise that I put these on all of them. Love the finish of them!
All finished. LED sidelights (& Reg Plate lights, but those are a bit dim so may need a change) also fitted.
They are a big big improvement over the standard Halogens... There is scope to upgrade the main beams in the future if desired too, but these seem good enough for now and I am happy with them. Beam cuts off nicely in the projectors, doesn't appear to scatter anywhere and isn't far different to the beams of the Vectra & Mazdas I owned previously with factory Xenons either.
Fitted HID & LEDs today.
Bumper off and looked at options - other owners have run the wiring through the access cap, but this makes their presence obvious as well as a bit untidy IMO. Spotted an alternative possibility though... The large flat space on the housings underside. This tied in nicely with the Ballasts also being able to fit on bodywork below the Headlight.
Drilled a 23mm hole for the wiring entry, and assembled the internals as needed. The exposed connections in the pics were then taped individually and then together to protect them after the pics were taken. Grommet was a lovely snug fit with the 23mm hole....
Tested. Nicely done.
Also, from inside the engine bay, stealthy. Air box sits in the space behind too, where the camera is roughly. Hides it all further!
Repeated on other side. Same layouts etc, very hidden still, moreso due to the battery placement tbh! Also fitted Diadem indicators - those who have seen recent cars of mine may realise that I put these on all of them. Love the finish of them!
All finished. LED sidelights (& Reg Plate lights, but those are a bit dim so may need a change) also fitted.
They are a big big improvement over the standard Halogens... There is scope to upgrade the main beams in the future if desired too, but these seem good enough for now and I am happy with them. Beam cuts off nicely in the projectors, doesn't appear to scatter anywhere and isn't far different to the beams of the Vectra & Mazdas I owned previously with factory Xenons either.
Need lots more practice ahead of going full ASBO.
https://youtu.be/lb1giGEySxE
Now, where was that Line Lock kit?....
https://youtu.be/lb1giGEySxE
Now, where was that Line Lock kit?....
Picking up winter grime this weekend, out & about with some friends. Last time it's being used this year, so gave it a wash this morning too.
Also, recently fitted some new fresh smaller plates which are looking far better than the old slogan ones.
IMG_4349 copy by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
IMG_4395 copy by Dave Gritt, on Flickr
Also, recently fitted some new fresh smaller plates which are looking far better than the old slogan ones.
IMG_4349 copy by Dave Gritt, on FlickrIMG_4395 copy by Dave Gritt, on FlickrLearn2MergeInTurn said:
That retail park is in Branksome, no?
Your very close to me sir, what a wonderful car aswell..hats off!!
Yep, some of those pics are at Branksome. A crap background but it has good lighting for night pictures!Your very close to me sir, what a wonderful car aswell..hats off!!
I actually live up in Shaftesbury, but work in Poole as well as having family & friends there (as well as living there previously!)
Been busy over recent months, not thought to update this!
Not long after the last post it was 'laid up' for a couple of months to avoid the bulk of winter, but then I decided to do some maintenance on the Supercharger - namely an oil change... I was struggling to fully drain it of the old oil, and also wanted to check the Coupler for it's type incase of ever needing a spare, so stripped off the drive mechanism entirely to get the best access and to drain it.
Only issue was that I was doing it in the garage, which did not have any power. So it was all done under LED torches only! Bit of a faff, but all ok.
Following this I brought it out for a HSV/Holden meetup at Surrey Rolling Road for a dyno session.
Made good power of 435RWHP (so around 500HP @ Fly), but it does need some attention as it had developed a noticeable flat spot - I was advised to give it a thorough service at least to try to clear this out.
I noticed some issues with the AP brakes after bringing the car back out because I found the hose banjo bolts loose on the APs all round! Loose enough to actually be losing fluid with the brake pedal depressed. So, for the first time since buying the car, I got it up on stands with wheels off to have a good look round them;
Firstly, some hoses were misaligned due to roadside attempts at stemming the leak in the past, so after giving the bolts/fittings a good clean with a wire brush and some aerosol, I did notice the washers in use are an Alloy/Steel type and not the normal Copper, and therefore may be limited for crushing which won't have helped with making a seal. I have had bad a experience with brake hydraulics before so was not going to start removing bits and introducing air to the system on this occasion so just realigned the hoses and retightened with some 'meaningful effort'... This seems to have cured it though, no problems since this was carried out!
Did the same checks all round, the first time I've seen the front brakes in all their largeness.
Not long after the last post it was 'laid up' for a couple of months to avoid the bulk of winter, but then I decided to do some maintenance on the Supercharger - namely an oil change... I was struggling to fully drain it of the old oil, and also wanted to check the Coupler for it's type incase of ever needing a spare, so stripped off the drive mechanism entirely to get the best access and to drain it.
Only issue was that I was doing it in the garage, which did not have any power. So it was all done under LED torches only! Bit of a faff, but all ok.
Following this I brought it out for a HSV/Holden meetup at Surrey Rolling Road for a dyno session.
Made good power of 435RWHP (so around 500HP @ Fly), but it does need some attention as it had developed a noticeable flat spot - I was advised to give it a thorough service at least to try to clear this out.
I noticed some issues with the AP brakes after bringing the car back out because I found the hose banjo bolts loose on the APs all round! Loose enough to actually be losing fluid with the brake pedal depressed. So, for the first time since buying the car, I got it up on stands with wheels off to have a good look round them;
Firstly, some hoses were misaligned due to roadside attempts at stemming the leak in the past, so after giving the bolts/fittings a good clean with a wire brush and some aerosol, I did notice the washers in use are an Alloy/Steel type and not the normal Copper, and therefore may be limited for crushing which won't have helped with making a seal. I have had bad a experience with brake hydraulics before so was not going to start removing bits and introducing air to the system on this occasion so just realigned the hoses and retightened with some 'meaningful effort'... This seems to have cured it though, no problems since this was carried out!
Did the same checks all round, the first time I've seen the front brakes in all their largeness.
I was finding some resistance in the gear selection, and also temporarily 'lost' my clutch on an enthusiastic, and seemingly I'm not the only one - a common fault on a number of LSx powered GM cars and also subject to a technical bulletin for the Corvette with the same Tremec transmission.
Most cases are down to poor Clutch hydraulic fluid, as detailed in this link -
http://rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
Fluid should be in good nick with little fouling. Mine on the other hand? It was minging;
Tried the method for a fluid change that I linked above, didn't do much to help. So decided to do it properly and carry out a full fluid flush and renewal.
Up we go, need the wooden blocks to make room for a jack... ha;
Anyone who has worked on the Tremec T56 Gearbox that is installed on these will understand that it can be an absolute ball buster to bleed the clutch without any form of remote bleeding device because of a noticeable lack of space between the transmission and body and because the bleed nipple is INSIDE the gearbox with even less room for play as can be seen in this borrowed picture;
So, you cannot get sufficient access to the bleed nipple without either;
{A} HUGE patience and tiny/skinny hands & arms
{B} A special socket from GM (not easy to source in the UK either) which has a bleed line passing through it, or something like that apparently.
{C} removing the gearbox and upgrading the bleed point!
or even a combination of any of those above....
You can buy a very good remote bleeding line for these through the Specialists that frequent these cars, installed with the Box removed (ie at a clutch change), that gives you a nice bleed nipple right up in the engine bay next to the Reservoir. Lovely. Oh, but of course mine did not have this.... I shouldn't be surprised!
Mine had a crude Nipple extension, that lets it protrude around 1-1.5" outside of the gearbox housing. It's not pretty, it's not the best for access still, but it works, and saves a lot of annoyance! Similar to this from a VXR8 OEM Fitment;
Although not quite as Gucci as the 'proper' remote bleed kit, this worked well enough and allowed me to do the job with a pressure bleeder in pretty much no time atall. The result was not surprising though - a bulk of grim fluid was expelled;
The pedal felt better and seemed to be releasing better, but was still having issues with clutch slip and aggressive changes. Another flush may have been needed.
After the above was done, I took it straight down for it's MOT. After all of the recent issues, I'm glad to report it passed with minimal fuss!
- an exhaust clamp is corroded and needs replacing.
- the two Exhaust flanges under the middle of the car are leaking slightly (not surprising, they smash my driveway when I pull into it every single time...)
- two rubber bushes on suspension arms (NS/OS) are showing signs of deterioration - the only ones I've seen that aren't Poly and I did see their condition so expected this.
They also adjusted my NS Headlight as I told them it was aiming high but had struggled to align it efficiently on my driveway - they checked, adjusted and left it off the paperwork for me.
Following the above, I decided that some parts were needed to get the transmission sweet again. So, splurged some money at Monkfish Performance and within a couple of days received a parcel...
Namely;
- Replacement LS7 Clutch (Friction & Pressure plates) - an OEM upgrade over the standard LS1 item, reportedly good for ~600hp. Mine already has one fitted according to paperwork.
- Hydraulic Slave Cylinder - to rule out any issues with the existing item on engaging/releasing the clutch.
- Spigot/Pilot Bearing - common failure item, good practice to change out once the Gearbox is off to allow access. If it fails, can damage Gearbox main shaft etc.
- Remote Bleed Line - as per previous post - will make future life easier!
- Crankshaft Oil Seals (Fr/Rr) - due to evidence of liquid around the bellhousing, if it isn't clutch fluid it could be oil. Crank seal is something that can fail, didn't know which end was right so got both.
- Twin Coolant Hose - this sits at the back of the engine, gets rubbed by Cyl Heads and can fail. Posted in here before somewhere as mine have abrasions. May as well change sooner rather than later!
All of this was not only because it needs doing, but because I needed it fixed/reliable to go to Goodwood Festival of Speed - because, handily, the Monaro qualifies for their Performance Parking, so naturally I booked this with my tickets this year....
So, only had a few short weeks to get this all done. On a driveway... Which moves us onto this week where I saw the first major DIY job being undertaken on this... the Clutch renewal.
So, with a plan to carry out the work at my cousins, due to the wider & gated driveway, and the requirement to have 2 people on it (it could stay there on stands if we needed to complete over a couple of days too) I managed to book a couple of days off work to get it done - as mentioned before, it had to be fine before Goodwood at the end of June and also I wanted it available for a good friends wedding this bank holiday weekend.
The car got loaded up with all of the tools I thought I would need, and the parts I had ordered previously - a few more items had been ordered and shipped directly to my Cousin also - were all rammed into the boot, which surprisingly managed pretty well! I had my 2x socket sets, 2x tool bags, parts, 1x 3t trolley jack, 2x stands, pry bars, breaker bars, torch, boots etc all in with a few little spaces left.
Drove the car, gently, for the 25mile journey to Poole, and yes, the old clutch was still not happy, meaning I definitely had to go ahead with the work - bummer
Got it up on stands all round and set to work. Firstly, we removed the exhaust sections from the Cats back to give more access to the Propshaft and rear of the gearbox. The prop was disconnected and dropped - the centre support bearing is gone, but this will have to wait until another day - we then dismounted all the wiring harness from the gearbox and set to removing it. Some, namely the top, bolts were a nightmare to get to, but after some wriggling and swearing they eventually came out. The worst thing we came across was a connection from a solid pipe to flexi joint for the Clutch hydraulics. It was an absolute arse to get to and disconnect - it was ridiculously tight too and after almost 2hrs of effort on this alone it was finally undone and we could get onto removing the box itself. This was eventually done, and then the bell housing followed finally giving us full access to the clutch and other components. We removed the old stuff, easily, and then as we could see evidence of oil on the plates behind the flywheel this was also removed giving us good access to everything.
We found the installed Spigot/Pilot bearing to be completely shot - ie disintegrated and in pieces - so it was lucky I had bought a replacement. The remains of the old are shown below as well as a new one...
The oil seal was then popped off and a new one pressed in, easily, and the area given a clean up. We then refitted the removed parts and installed the new LS7 Clutch assembly.
The slave cylinder was replaced and the new Remote bleed line installed - this is such a simple but awesome bit of kit - how I managed the previous bleed compared to the ease of this is unknown.... I do need to fabricate a mounting bracket soon for it though.
Everything was then rebuilt, pretty easily compared to removal annoyingly, and then bled until we had a nice pedal.
We did run the car up without the exhaust refitted, and it sounded proper rudey - the neighbours may have disagreed as it was approaching 8.30pm at this point. :LOL:
11hrs (!!) after starting, the car was back on the ground ready to go. A long and annoying day but still done in one go in the end. The car now has a very nice bitey clutch and can deliver full power through the wheels again - give it a couple of weeks to bed in and I may go out to do some skids now I can...
Most cases are down to poor Clutch hydraulic fluid, as detailed in this link -
http://rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
Fluid should be in good nick with little fouling. Mine on the other hand? It was minging;
Tried the method for a fluid change that I linked above, didn't do much to help. So decided to do it properly and carry out a full fluid flush and renewal.
Up we go, need the wooden blocks to make room for a jack... ha;
Anyone who has worked on the Tremec T56 Gearbox that is installed on these will understand that it can be an absolute ball buster to bleed the clutch without any form of remote bleeding device because of a noticeable lack of space between the transmission and body and because the bleed nipple is INSIDE the gearbox with even less room for play as can be seen in this borrowed picture;
So, you cannot get sufficient access to the bleed nipple without either;
{A} HUGE patience and tiny/skinny hands & arms
{B} A special socket from GM (not easy to source in the UK either) which has a bleed line passing through it, or something like that apparently.
{C} removing the gearbox and upgrading the bleed point!
or even a combination of any of those above....
You can buy a very good remote bleeding line for these through the Specialists that frequent these cars, installed with the Box removed (ie at a clutch change), that gives you a nice bleed nipple right up in the engine bay next to the Reservoir. Lovely. Oh, but of course mine did not have this.... I shouldn't be surprised!
Mine had a crude Nipple extension, that lets it protrude around 1-1.5" outside of the gearbox housing. It's not pretty, it's not the best for access still, but it works, and saves a lot of annoyance! Similar to this from a VXR8 OEM Fitment;
Although not quite as Gucci as the 'proper' remote bleed kit, this worked well enough and allowed me to do the job with a pressure bleeder in pretty much no time atall. The result was not surprising though - a bulk of grim fluid was expelled;
The pedal felt better and seemed to be releasing better, but was still having issues with clutch slip and aggressive changes. Another flush may have been needed.
After the above was done, I took it straight down for it's MOT. After all of the recent issues, I'm glad to report it passed with minimal fuss!
- an exhaust clamp is corroded and needs replacing.
- the two Exhaust flanges under the middle of the car are leaking slightly (not surprising, they smash my driveway when I pull into it every single time...)
- two rubber bushes on suspension arms (NS/OS) are showing signs of deterioration - the only ones I've seen that aren't Poly and I did see their condition so expected this.
They also adjusted my NS Headlight as I told them it was aiming high but had struggled to align it efficiently on my driveway - they checked, adjusted and left it off the paperwork for me.
Following the above, I decided that some parts were needed to get the transmission sweet again. So, splurged some money at Monkfish Performance and within a couple of days received a parcel...
Namely;
- Replacement LS7 Clutch (Friction & Pressure plates) - an OEM upgrade over the standard LS1 item, reportedly good for ~600hp. Mine already has one fitted according to paperwork.
- Hydraulic Slave Cylinder - to rule out any issues with the existing item on engaging/releasing the clutch.
- Spigot/Pilot Bearing - common failure item, good practice to change out once the Gearbox is off to allow access. If it fails, can damage Gearbox main shaft etc.
- Remote Bleed Line - as per previous post - will make future life easier!
- Crankshaft Oil Seals (Fr/Rr) - due to evidence of liquid around the bellhousing, if it isn't clutch fluid it could be oil. Crank seal is something that can fail, didn't know which end was right so got both.
- Twin Coolant Hose - this sits at the back of the engine, gets rubbed by Cyl Heads and can fail. Posted in here before somewhere as mine have abrasions. May as well change sooner rather than later!
All of this was not only because it needs doing, but because I needed it fixed/reliable to go to Goodwood Festival of Speed - because, handily, the Monaro qualifies for their Performance Parking, so naturally I booked this with my tickets this year....
So, only had a few short weeks to get this all done. On a driveway... Which moves us onto this week where I saw the first major DIY job being undertaken on this... the Clutch renewal.
So, with a plan to carry out the work at my cousins, due to the wider & gated driveway, and the requirement to have 2 people on it (it could stay there on stands if we needed to complete over a couple of days too) I managed to book a couple of days off work to get it done - as mentioned before, it had to be fine before Goodwood at the end of June and also I wanted it available for a good friends wedding this bank holiday weekend.
The car got loaded up with all of the tools I thought I would need, and the parts I had ordered previously - a few more items had been ordered and shipped directly to my Cousin also - were all rammed into the boot, which surprisingly managed pretty well! I had my 2x socket sets, 2x tool bags, parts, 1x 3t trolley jack, 2x stands, pry bars, breaker bars, torch, boots etc all in with a few little spaces left.
Drove the car, gently, for the 25mile journey to Poole, and yes, the old clutch was still not happy, meaning I definitely had to go ahead with the work - bummer
Got it up on stands all round and set to work. Firstly, we removed the exhaust sections from the Cats back to give more access to the Propshaft and rear of the gearbox. The prop was disconnected and dropped - the centre support bearing is gone, but this will have to wait until another day - we then dismounted all the wiring harness from the gearbox and set to removing it. Some, namely the top, bolts were a nightmare to get to, but after some wriggling and swearing they eventually came out. The worst thing we came across was a connection from a solid pipe to flexi joint for the Clutch hydraulics. It was an absolute arse to get to and disconnect - it was ridiculously tight too and after almost 2hrs of effort on this alone it was finally undone and we could get onto removing the box itself. This was eventually done, and then the bell housing followed finally giving us full access to the clutch and other components. We removed the old stuff, easily, and then as we could see evidence of oil on the plates behind the flywheel this was also removed giving us good access to everything.
We found the installed Spigot/Pilot bearing to be completely shot - ie disintegrated and in pieces - so it was lucky I had bought a replacement. The remains of the old are shown below as well as a new one...
The oil seal was then popped off and a new one pressed in, easily, and the area given a clean up. We then refitted the removed parts and installed the new LS7 Clutch assembly.
The slave cylinder was replaced and the new Remote bleed line installed - this is such a simple but awesome bit of kit - how I managed the previous bleed compared to the ease of this is unknown.... I do need to fabricate a mounting bracket soon for it though.
Everything was then rebuilt, pretty easily compared to removal annoyingly, and then bled until we had a nice pedal.
We did run the car up without the exhaust refitted, and it sounded proper rudey - the neighbours may have disagreed as it was approaching 8.30pm at this point. :LOL:
11hrs (!!) after starting, the car was back on the ground ready to go. A long and annoying day but still done in one go in the end. The car now has a very nice bitey clutch and can deliver full power through the wheels again - give it a couple of weeks to bed in and I may go out to do some skids now I can...
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