£450 740i what could go wrong?
Discussion
TEKNOPUG said:
Is it not safe to assume that there was a pretty serious issue with the car, for it to be laid up and abandoned in the first place? Can't simply be the front springs. Must be a story to it.
Think I covered it, but the guy I am buying it off it was his uncles dad who bought it new, when his dad died it got parked up and left as the guy didn't want to use it due to sentimental value.It could be a massive lie, but may also be true, at the end of the day though it is £450 and worth more than that in bits if there is something catastrophically wrong with it, but hoping it should be alright, but as I say we have all had our hands burned on "cheap" cars so going into this eyes wide open, however MOT history is pretty good on it.
Soov535 said:
pits said:
It's D-Day, we are going up around 5 ish to try drag it out of its current grave, may even look at firing it up later if all goes well, possible video as well
Oh yes please!I'm sat here in my lounge, have been since 2:30 this morning, with a wife in the early stages of labour, and i'm wondering if i'll get to read the thread update tonight or tomorrow
pits said:
I'll try get an update before your misses enters proper labour, I feel though that perhaps now your child should have the middle name "740i" it's going to be an emotional day for you, good luck to both.
Fuel pump relay just easy to pull out and you can short it out easier
We are at the hospital now so I think you might fail. We are having a girl, 740i you say, I'll ask the wife if we can call her Nakisil. Fuel pump relay just easy to pull out and you can short it out easier
I've recently acquired an E38 740i, I'm loving it and loathing it in fairly equal measures... Love it when its actually driveable. Loathing it at the moment because it refused to start on me the other day, the battery went a bit flat and now the EWS has 'forgotten' the only key I have and I'm about to have to drop 200 notes on a new battery and a second key. And then will have to have the first key re-coded later.
Also it seems to suffer from almost every 'known issue' in the book. Mystery power drains and associated poor battery health. The 'shimmy'. The ignition switch issue that sometimes causes electrical oddness like no indicator lights on the dash. Sagging headliner. Climate control gremlins. The fuel tank (thankfully fixed by the PO). Crusty rear arches. But, it's a great car to drive, gets compliments from people you wouldn't normally expect them from. It makes a great noise. Bit thirsty, think I would have preferred a VANOS car for all they're meant to be less good with the plastic chain guide issue, considering there's 4.4l there it does feel like it could do with more low-end shove. Still, looks good and a great winter comfort car. Maybe even the potential to keep long term although the 225k miles on the clock probably isn't going to help resale any if at all.
Also it seems to suffer from almost every 'known issue' in the book. Mystery power drains and associated poor battery health. The 'shimmy'. The ignition switch issue that sometimes causes electrical oddness like no indicator lights on the dash. Sagging headliner. Climate control gremlins. The fuel tank (thankfully fixed by the PO). Crusty rear arches. But, it's a great car to drive, gets compliments from people you wouldn't normally expect them from. It makes a great noise. Bit thirsty, think I would have preferred a VANOS car for all they're meant to be less good with the plastic chain guide issue, considering there's 4.4l there it does feel like it could do with more low-end shove. Still, looks good and a great winter comfort car. Maybe even the potential to keep long term although the 225k miles on the clock probably isn't going to help resale any if at all.
Looking forward to hearing more, but you don't need to do any of this:
pits said:
Remove fuel pump relay
Check oil level
Pour some oil into bank A
Hand crank her first to get the oil pump lubed and moving
Try pump any old fuel out
Add new fuel
Relay back on
Try it
Just take a battery pack jump start and get it fired up, trust me that paraphernalia is a waste of time.Check oil level
Pour some oil into bank A
Hand crank her first to get the oil pump lubed and moving
Try pump any old fuel out
Add new fuel
Relay back on
Try it
Well I'm back, phone went dead.
Got up there tool a few pictures, guy handed me the valet key, gave him a sort of wtf look, I'm not taking the car with the valet key, but turns out the valet key doesn't fit that car.
2 hours of searching, nothing.
So tried to pull it out with the disco and it's stuck, well and truly stuck.
It just turned into a clusterfk really, I'll write up a bit more when not on phone.
As it stands no 7 series, so going back up Saturday to dig it out, actually dig it out.
Got up there tool a few pictures, guy handed me the valet key, gave him a sort of wtf look, I'm not taking the car with the valet key, but turns out the valet key doesn't fit that car.
2 hours of searching, nothing.
So tried to pull it out with the disco and it's stuck, well and truly stuck.
It just turned into a clusterfk really, I'll write up a bit more when not on phone.
As it stands no 7 series, so going back up Saturday to dig it out, actually dig it out.
I'm actually looking onto keys myself at the moment cos of the EWS issue I mentioned previously
Valet key from BMW (opens doors, starts engine, no glovebox or boot) £45-ish
Multifunction key from BMW (opens everything, starts engine, no remote lock/unlock) £58
Full-fat key from BMW (the whole shebang) £140-ish
unfortunately I forgot to ask if it's including VAT or not. But I'm assuming not because that's life. All require you to pay in advance at your local stealership and bring the V5 in your name plus ID.
Alternatives -
Full-functionality non-OEM key with flip-out blade from chap on Facebook (I'll PM you a name if you're interested) £80 posted or £100 if he comes to you.
Just the EWS transponder chip coded to the car (you can then get a generic transponder key cut locally and place it in the shell yourself) from a different chap on Facebook - £40
Send the ECU in to another chap I know for EWS removal only £40 or get a decent remap on there at the same time as EWS removal - £150
So there's a few options
Valet key from BMW (opens doors, starts engine, no glovebox or boot) £45-ish
Multifunction key from BMW (opens everything, starts engine, no remote lock/unlock) £58
Full-fat key from BMW (the whole shebang) £140-ish
unfortunately I forgot to ask if it's including VAT or not. But I'm assuming not because that's life. All require you to pay in advance at your local stealership and bring the V5 in your name plus ID.
Alternatives -
Full-functionality non-OEM key with flip-out blade from chap on Facebook (I'll PM you a name if you're interested) £80 posted or £100 if he comes to you.
Just the EWS transponder chip coded to the car (you can then get a generic transponder key cut locally and place it in the shell yourself) from a different chap on Facebook - £40
Send the ECU in to another chap I know for EWS removal only £40 or get a decent remap on there at the same time as EWS removal - £150
So there's a few options
I bought my 3 series with only one key that didn't work on c.locking (dead battery). Got it repaired and a spare for less than one replacement from BMW. Guy is called BM keys on fleabay.
Was a legit dude, who I would happily recommend and use again. Comes to you or will code a key from the BME module.
Was a legit dude, who I would happily recommend and use again. Comes to you or will code a key from the BME module.
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