L322 Range Rover - Cheapest ever?
Discussion
Blueprint said:
MJ85 said:
Tell me about it. Yeah, she's feeling good now. Another problem is there is a leak on one of the front airbags, but only deflates when it is in high level mode or suspended on a lift! Keep it in standard mode and it is fine!
Wow, I didn't know the subframe could get so bad on these!I'd change that bag sooner rather than later just to avoid being let down in a really inconvenient place.
I had to pick the in-laws up from the airport a couple of weeks ago; I've had an intermittent front right height sensor issue for a few months and then it finally gave up just as I joined the freeway and dropped the car to the bump-stops and refused to re-raise whilst moving.
It finally went up in to off-road mode whilst in the service station which 'cleared' the fault just long enough to allow me to crawl back from the airport slowly.
Multiple pumps by the compressor also canes the battery so that needed a charge too as it refused to start the next day.
New height sensor on and problem has gone away - these really are magic carpets when everything works together as intended but I'd say the best tool I bought was a diagnostics reader/clearer, and if I was keeping it I'd probably get one capable of re-programming control units too.
I'm using the BMW PA soft doodad... didn't realise it would work but someone mentioned it on a forum when I was researching. Plugged her in and then access to everything. Great news, as the other scanners are expensive.
Thought I had a brake issue today. As you'll see from the receipts, she's had a fair bit on the rear (pads, discs, hand brake shoes and one calliper).
Luckily, just the disc shield rubbing. Screwdriver prod required! Unsurprisingly, had this on the E39.
To answer above:
There is another subframe, a rear one. This looks better, and I've never heard of issues with them. Said that about the front one though! One of my previous cars with an E46 M3, I clearly like subframe issues...although quite different issues in reality.
There is other rust on the car, that will need looking at in time. My mechanic is thinking that for next MoT I might need some remedial work, but she is through for now.
My full list of work to be done is:
I really do like the colour. About as far away from the bling crowd as you can get.
Luckily, just the disc shield rubbing. Screwdriver prod required! Unsurprisingly, had this on the E39.
To answer above:
There is another subframe, a rear one. This looks better, and I've never heard of issues with them. Said that about the front one though! One of my previous cars with an E46 M3, I clearly like subframe issues...although quite different issues in reality.
There is other rust on the car, that will need looking at in time. My mechanic is thinking that for next MoT I might need some remedial work, but she is through for now.
My full list of work to be done is:
- Fit turbo vent filter (ordered)
- Fix LCDs (have parts, just need to fit)
- Replace OSF air bag (it leaks when in high mode)
- Fix steering column for reach
- Driver's heated seat stopped working (passenger's is fine)
- Replace rusty tailgate (top and bottom)
- Rust repair to rear quarters and arches
- Headlight washers/wipers need some work
- Replace NSR light, it is degraded inside and looks horrible
- Amplifier needs to be refurbished (about 5 of the 11 speakers work)
- Replace centre console plastic (has glue? in there from previous owner)
- Possibly change the viscous fan clutch, gets stuck on now and again
- At some point, diff oil change, gearbox and filter change etc.
I really do like the colour. About as far away from the bling crowd as you can get.
Uggers said:
What's your theoretical monthly cost at the moment?
I use a similar approach to my car and at first had a few big bills for brakes/bodywork/suspension which took my monthly costs to £400-500 per month for the first couple of years. Made me question if I'd done the right thing.
Now everything has settled down and I keep on top of all the little jobs before they become big jobs, the last 3 years the monthly cost has come down to a much more reasonable £200 per month.
I hope yours starts to make financial sense the longer you have it as I have always liked the early non molested versions of these. Before they had too much tinsel added to them!
Good post!I use a similar approach to my car and at first had a few big bills for brakes/bodywork/suspension which took my monthly costs to £400-500 per month for the first couple of years. Made me question if I'd done the right thing.
Now everything has settled down and I keep on top of all the little jobs before they become big jobs, the last 3 years the monthly cost has come down to a much more reasonable £200 per month.
I hope yours starts to make financial sense the longer you have it as I have always liked the early non molested versions of these. Before they had too much tinsel added to them!
I work to a theoretical £300 a month. At the moment it is a horrendous £800 a month average, but it won't take *too* long to bring that down. The problem I've had in the past is keeping cars long enough to see this through! I don't see me having that problem with this car, though.
I'm happy if she costs £1 less than £300 a month, but I would like it to fit in to that figure.
I tried boring before, and I didn't like it. Zero deposit and £250 a month got me a new shape Qashqai on 9k miles on PCP. Ideally it would match that! Just higher VED, insurance and fuel to contend with.
A few threads have started to appreciate the early, non-glitter cars; and I do too. QQ below...
Handed the car back after 6 months. Luckily they are in massive demand, so wasn't a terrible financial decision.
Hello again.
The car is booked in, early next week for some work. Replace that leaking airbag, plus some new work! Great... OSF ball joint has failed. Wasn't related to the previous work, but it has all of sudden become very noisy and loose. Also, the CV boot has come adrift on that side. Hoping for some luck soon...
Anyway, I changed the turbo vent filter (£2 odd).
Really need to sort these displays. I have the parts, but that many other problems, they keep being left!
Front end is in fantastic condition. Cables were for the laptop to run the BMW software for the suspension reset.
I had a look what a basic L405 would cost new to achieve the modern equivalent of this car. Just under £80k. Can't say many would spec one with small wheels and in green. I would though!
She's back from the garage!
Now feeling very nice.
I totally agree with what you are all saying. Yes, £800 per month is silly, but I've only had it since late last year. This *should* ease off over time. I'm completely agreeing also with the fact that more bills will show up; the list of niggles isn't finished yet, without unexpected work!
I have had a habit of sinking £2k into previous cars and then moving them on far too soon. I won't do that, this time, in an attempt to get the car to a good standard and enjoy the previous work/costs!
Very true on trim pieces costing a fortune, each thing I look at tends to be 2-4 times the price I had in my head before starting the search!
Unfortunately, I've just been made redundant... so hopefully she isn't at risk!!
Now feeling very nice.
I totally agree with what you are all saying. Yes, £800 per month is silly, but I've only had it since late last year. This *should* ease off over time. I'm completely agreeing also with the fact that more bills will show up; the list of niggles isn't finished yet, without unexpected work!
I have had a habit of sinking £2k into previous cars and then moving them on far too soon. I won't do that, this time, in an attempt to get the car to a good standard and enjoy the previous work/costs!
Very true on trim pieces costing a fortune, each thing I look at tends to be 2-4 times the price I had in my head before starting the search!
Unfortunately, I've just been made redundant... so hopefully she isn't at risk!!
The car does feel like it is let down by some horrendous parts that just fail due to bad design. Silver trim that scratches/peels easily on the interior and the door handles on the outside, plus things like the rear wiper motor and rusty tailgates. It isn't really a case of if, it is when, with things like this (if you use them anything like you would in normal day to day use).
The engine feels really healthy to me and hasn't give me any cause for concern (starts easily, no smoke, smooth power delivery, revs cleanly). The previous owner had no documentation whatsoever, due to a complete lack of organisation, but he did have it serviced regularly by a garage and himself, and this shows (I rang the garage etc.).
Just had the OSF ball joint replaced (well, one of them), and I think the other will need doing in the not too distant future. At least they are cheap!
For reference, for the front air suspension unit (genuine), ball joint, CV boot, lots of hassle of fitting, diag to get the suspension working and whatnot, total bill was £470. No idea what LR would charge (i'm guessing a lot more...).
The engine feels really healthy to me and hasn't give me any cause for concern (starts easily, no smoke, smooth power delivery, revs cleanly). The previous owner had no documentation whatsoever, due to a complete lack of organisation, but he did have it serviced regularly by a garage and himself, and this shows (I rang the garage etc.).
Just had the OSF ball joint replaced (well, one of them), and I think the other will need doing in the not too distant future. At least they are cheap!
For reference, for the front air suspension unit (genuine), ball joint, CV boot, lots of hassle of fitting, diag to get the suspension working and whatnot, total bill was £470. No idea what LR would charge (i'm guessing a lot more...).
MARLBOROLITES said:
Ah, the silver trim and flaking paint! Talk about a car being let down by poor quality interior trim! When searching for my purchase I discounted a couple of examples where there was more underlying black plastic on display than the silver paint covering itself. Thankfully, my ultimate purchase was in good health. There were odd areas in need of touching up, but nothing dramatic.
Once I purchased I set about browsing Range Rover forums for ownership hints and tips. I came across one thread relating to touch up paint for the silver interior trim. A company by the name of paints4u had colour matched this and supplied 100ml pots. I ordered some and was very happy with the result. Whenever a defect occurs I dig the pot out and re-touch it.
To order, you need the custom formulation paint code: STD 29 131 181.
Good to know, cheers. It is surprisingly good compared to some, considering the mileage. The rear centre console (where the cig lighter is) has air underneath the paint now, just waiting to peel off! Once I purchased I set about browsing Range Rover forums for ownership hints and tips. I came across one thread relating to touch up paint for the silver interior trim. A company by the name of paints4u had colour matched this and supplied 100ml pots. I ordered some and was very happy with the result. Whenever a defect occurs I dig the pot out and re-touch it.
To order, you need the custom formulation paint code: STD 29 131 181.
)Krikkit said:
MJ85 said:
For reference, for the front air suspension unit (genuine), ball joint, CV boot, lots of hassle of fitting, diag to get the suspension working and whatnot, total bill was £470. No idea what LR would charge (i'm guessing a lot more...).
That sounds like rather a bargain!Lots of love for the L322, such a nice piece of design, especially in non-drug-dealer spec.
It looks like the leaking airbag and time at the garage did kill the battery. A 1 second warning of HDC inactive upon startup signifies a voltage drop. A quick check that the alternator is in good shape...
And it is time for new battery (£120).
Will fit it over the weekend.
I had a go at the LCDs... this is not a fun job. It also did not go well.
Dash and MID/cluster removal went okay. Bendy tool helped!
Having a go at replacing the LCD cable...
Old and new
I didn't attempt the instrument cluster in the end. Whilst cleaning the contacts on the MID LCD, I broke the corner of the glass. Upon reconstruction, the top half of the screen doesn't work at all (although the bottom is much better). Still, big fail. I will have to send them off to be worked on.
Note: the instructions were on photobucket (!!!!) and were low resolution. Anyone with a lack of attention would have given up long before I... be warned! The pictures really do not show how fiddly the MID is to take apart (or should I say, reassemble).
Rest of the car feels good. I think the next port of call will be to sort a deep noise from underneath. I'm going with centre support bearing and prop universal joint. Fun.
And it is time for new battery (£120).
Will fit it over the weekend.
I had a go at the LCDs... this is not a fun job. It also did not go well.
Dash and MID/cluster removal went okay. Bendy tool helped!
Having a go at replacing the LCD cable...
Old and new
I didn't attempt the instrument cluster in the end. Whilst cleaning the contacts on the MID LCD, I broke the corner of the glass. Upon reconstruction, the top half of the screen doesn't work at all (although the bottom is much better). Still, big fail. I will have to send them off to be worked on.
Note: the instructions were on photobucket (!!!!) and were low resolution. Anyone with a lack of attention would have given up long before I... be warned! The pictures really do not show how fiddly the MID is to take apart (or should I say, reassemble).
Rest of the car feels good. I think the next port of call will be to sort a deep noise from underneath. I'm going with centre support bearing and prop universal joint. Fun.
For those thinking about the "performance". Here is a 0-70 mph video. 0-60 seems to be within the book figure of around 13 seconds.
https://youtu.be/IaETnhSyjzY
https://youtu.be/IaETnhSyjzY
Battery fitted.
If you take out the battery tray, you can see the Webasto cabin heater that is standard on TD6s (you can't set it to come on before the car is started, unless specified from new, though.).
However, the day after fitting, the battery was completely flat.
Clearly I had a battery drain. Looking at the usual suspects...
Changed the interior blower final stage resistor (genuine, £60), just like in BMWs. The one I replaced was only a few years old, going by the date stamp. The car has travelled around 100k since that time, so still might be the culprit.
Whilst I was there, I saw the AC flap motor has become disconnected - fitted back after a bit of faff.
I also disconnected the fuse to the non-operational headlight wipers and removed the USB phone charger (as the 12v socket remains live). Battery drain appears to be fixed! Not sure which it was, yet. To be fair, it could be a combination of 2 or 3.
After replacing the rear wiper motor, arm and blade a little while back, the blade supplied lasted about 20 wipes. Spoke to the seller and they sent me a new one.
I'm sure there will be more updates soon...
Jakg said:
MJ85 said:
If you take out the battery tray, you can see the Webasto cabin heater that is standard on TD6s (you can't set it to come on before the car is started, unless specified from new, though.).
Looks identical to the unit fitted to diesel Rover 75 / MG ZT's.You can get it to start with a remote control easily on those just by grounding or +12v-ing a pin, depending on the model. Loads of into online.
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