Chevrolet G20 Starcraft Conversion Van, 1994
Discussion
Here's a nice Vandura.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAaNXS_TzA4
I also picked up this book after recommendation:
Walden on Wheels: On The Open Road from Debt to Freedom
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAaNXS_TzA4
I also picked up this book after recommendation:
Walden on Wheels: On The Open Road from Debt to Freedom
KrissKross said:
Very interesting thread.
With the costs of some of these vehicles, I could buy one and give it away for free instead of hiring an RV for a month or so!
Exactly. One of the TV rental companies, cruise America, their prices I find are expensive.With the costs of some of these vehicles, I could buy one and give it away for free instead of hiring an RV for a month or so!
If you was trying to do it on a minimum budget, conversion vans are good for stealth camping. A lot places like Walmart will let you boondock for free.
You could pick up an old class c rv for maybe 4k. Class B's generally are more expensive as they are easier to hide in plain view and park.
I got this van instead if an rv for now so I can daily drive it for bad weather, move my riding mower and stuff.
I originally though when the rear doors open they are quite restrictive, however the door straps have pins that take 2seconds to slide out. Then remove the spare wheel and the doors will open wide. I can fit my riding mower with a 42" deck inside.
I love this UK camper cabin conversion, it looks like my home.
http://dornob.com/living-in-a-van-rustic-cozy-conv...
https://rusticampers.wixsite.com/rustic-campers
I think TV's are probably cheaper in the UK, at least the diesel ones there are affordable. Anything diesel here is overpriced.
The 6.2 v8 diesel g20 and g30 vans seem to have been imported to Europe. I have not seen one here. However it's the same engine in the humvee and the blocks can crack, maybe get 23uk mpg on the motorway.
The monster 454 g30 vans get bought for their engine and the vans get scrapped which is a waste.
The nearest junkyard that had a G Van was an hour away. I spotted a Subaru XT awd turbo and it wasn't even in that bad of a condition. A C4 corvette, plenty of 80s gm cars.
I took the time to look around them, some of the 1980s interiors are really cool. The seats are like armchairs with mattress toppers sewn into them.
They had a G30 cargo van which is the one ton.
Massive 8 lug brake drums.
For heavier duty towing it is possible to fit the g30 suspension but most people have said it's too stiff for regular use.
I got a ton of trim pieces from this GMC Vandura. I may go back for the bumper seeing as it is going to be very hard to locate the Starcraft bumper/spoiler. I black plastidip my grille and light bezels as the chrome was failing. If I got factory bumper I'll do the same but get and aftermarket front spoiler with rectangle foglights.
I got these wood pieces as one of mine is missing. Sanded them down and will apply shellac.
My door cards are shot, I am going to recreate them with thicker wood and thicker material.
Someone went through the effort of removing the dash, it gave me a chance to study how the HVAC system is routed.
This van had a heavy duty trailer hitch that I wouldn't mind, however part of it is resting on the bar.
Rear ac unit, I took the vent as at some point I will install a secondary battery.
Another 350.
Glory days.
This van also had a CB neatly installed in the overhead area in the front seating area. Forgot to take a pic.
Here's a Dodge Ram Van
I also picked up some blinds but I'll probably sell them as my van has them, one of them needs to be repaired. I left the curtains on these but took the rails. My wife with sew thicker curtains in the correct tan color.
I took the time to look around them, some of the 1980s interiors are really cool. The seats are like armchairs with mattress toppers sewn into them.
They had a G30 cargo van which is the one ton.
Massive 8 lug brake drums.
For heavier duty towing it is possible to fit the g30 suspension but most people have said it's too stiff for regular use.
I got a ton of trim pieces from this GMC Vandura. I may go back for the bumper seeing as it is going to be very hard to locate the Starcraft bumper/spoiler. I black plastidip my grille and light bezels as the chrome was failing. If I got factory bumper I'll do the same but get and aftermarket front spoiler with rectangle foglights.
I got these wood pieces as one of mine is missing. Sanded them down and will apply shellac.
My door cards are shot, I am going to recreate them with thicker wood and thicker material.
Someone went through the effort of removing the dash, it gave me a chance to study how the HVAC system is routed.
This van had a heavy duty trailer hitch that I wouldn't mind, however part of it is resting on the bar.
Rear ac unit, I took the vent as at some point I will install a secondary battery.
Another 350.
Glory days.
This van also had a CB neatly installed in the overhead area in the front seating area. Forgot to take a pic.
Here's a Dodge Ram Van
I also picked up some blinds but I'll probably sell them as my van has them, one of them needs to be repaired. I left the curtains on these but took the rails. My wife with sew thicker curtains in the correct tan color.
Shakermaker said:
I'm guessing you hid that Gospel Choir cassette in your back pocket 
Yes, I especially like the "Jesus will fix it" track. The van is still in the drive and I'm still waiting for him to install the manifolds back on. I've been waiting a while.Saw this nice g20 at Walmart
Barchettaman said:
Some fairly heroic home maintenance going on there to sort out the problems during the service, bloody well done. I wish I was that talented.
Thanks I appreciate it. I'm just frugal and if I can do it myself or teach myself how to do it I will. If it wasn't for the cold weather and getting dark early it would be fully serviced by now.The last time it was running, the stereo had power going to it as the backlight was on but it was totally unresponsive, also the electric mirrors were the same. Hopefully it's just a shared fuse.
Just saw the G Van on this Canadian news snippet.
https://youtu.be/B6ABtUk5EkE
Edited by 5ohmustang on Friday 3rd February 21:52
Well their is plenty of wood work he can start on for that matter. I liked the dash in the Ram Van. Typically out of the big 3 have worst mpg, worst body condition and worst transmission. However I appreciate there oddities and uniqueness.
The dajiban is cool but I have no idea where they pick up performance parts for these vans other than the engines. Also most of those race vans are long wheel base and not short, so not lighter. I like the Watanabe wheels. You can pick up the ram cargo vans for next to nothing.
I seem to remember the 2500 and 3500 have a very high towing capacity for an older vehicle, somewhere around 8000lbs.
All the new van interest is in the dodge ram promaster which is a fiat Ducato with a bigger price tag, and also the transit. I saw a dually transit 3500 powerstroke a week ago. I'm pretty sure it's a euro diesel with the powerstroke name.
The dajiban is cool but I have no idea where they pick up performance parts for these vans other than the engines. Also most of those race vans are long wheel base and not short, so not lighter. I like the Watanabe wheels. You can pick up the ram cargo vans for next to nothing.
I seem to remember the 2500 and 3500 have a very high towing capacity for an older vehicle, somewhere around 8000lbs.
All the new van interest is in the dodge ram promaster which is a fiat Ducato with a bigger price tag, and also the transit. I saw a dually transit 3500 powerstroke a week ago. I'm pretty sure it's a euro diesel with the powerstroke name.
Edited by 5ohmustang on Thursday 2nd February 20:23
The stereo and electric mirrors are working again, they share the same fuse as the horn. Not sure what caused it to blow.
Completed engine oil change and filter, engine sump has no sign of gasket leaks, tightened the supply and return line. Changed out the rear diff fluid and gasket.
The driveshaft is still leaking tranny fluid. I can see it coming between the walls of the yoke and the main body of it. Some trucks have a hole in the yoke in case of overpressure and it can leak from there this does not have not have one.
The only other thing it could be is an o ring on the output shaft itself, which I don't remember seeing. I'll do that next.
Completed engine oil change and filter, engine sump has no sign of gasket leaks, tightened the supply and return line. Changed out the rear diff fluid and gasket.
The driveshaft is still leaking tranny fluid. I can see it coming between the walls of the yoke and the main body of it. Some trucks have a hole in the yoke in case of overpressure and it can leak from there this does not have not have one.
The only other thing it could be is an o ring on the output shaft itself, which I don't remember seeing. I'll do that next.
Edited by 5ohmustang on Friday 3rd February 21:54
We got him!
I removed the driveshaft again and noticed it does have a hole in the center of the yoke. However even if I was to do the reckneck solution of cleaning the hole and rtving it closed, it would still leak at the output shaft seal. The service manual does not cover it.
After some searching online I found this.
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/yokelea...
Yes mine has the metal cup after all. I tried to remove it carefully but somehow it's pressed on. I used some tweezers and removed the o ring. It was hard and loose. Ordered a new one from GM for $2 Inc postage. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to drop the driveshaft.
I removed the driveshaft again and noticed it does have a hole in the center of the yoke. However even if I was to do the reckneck solution of cleaning the hole and rtving it closed, it would still leak at the output shaft seal. The service manual does not cover it.
After some searching online I found this.
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/yokelea...
Yes mine has the metal cup after all. I tried to remove it carefully but somehow it's pressed on. I used some tweezers and removed the o ring. It was hard and loose. Ordered a new one from GM for $2 Inc postage. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to drop the driveshaft.
Straff99 said:
Great story and a cracking van. The horror tales about breakdowns makes me feel a whole lot better about stuff like that when it's happened to me in the past. Perhaps that cassette tape is in there to ward off dark forces... It's obviously not worked ;-)
The consequences of a breakdown where I like to explore are much worse in the U.S. Literally so far out there (plus no phone signal) if you breakdown it's a full on survival situation. Which is my next task, pack the survival kit for the van and a get home bag (not the same as a bug out bag)Also I plan to have my scooter or motorcycle mounted on a trailer hitch. So if the van fails at least we we have a way to travel long distance. The issue I have encountered the cheaper motorcycle racks are limited to 500lbs. My Vstrom 1000 is 500 lbs, plus it will stick out a few feet and have a large amount of stress on the male part of the receiver.
There are quality American racks that will hold up to a gold wing but they are pricey. Here are some examples:
I'm looking for ideas on how to secure gear from sliding around when in transit. Once the sofa/bed is back in, it will be a bit easier to store gear in plastic boxes under and to the rear of the bed, with the mattress topper over that it will give me an extra foot of room.
However at the moment all the seats in the rear and not installed. There are no hold downs/brackets like there would be in a cargo van due to all the upholstery.
So I am looking for ideas to stop gear from sliding back and forth.
However at the moment all the seats in the rear and not installed. There are no hold downs/brackets like there would be in a cargo van due to all the upholstery.
So I am looking for ideas to stop gear from sliding back and forth.
Interesting product if it works. The carpet in the van is more than a house carpet than the regular thin smooth car carpet. They sell it at Walmart apparently I think I will try it out.
I want the capability to switch from van to camper van so everything installed is removable, rather than permanently installing sink, stove fridge etc. At some point I will get a travel trailer will all the rv stuff in it.
This is nice, G van with the older style lights.
https://youtu.be/KxUIMpbEE7o
I want the capability to switch from van to camper van so everything installed is removable, rather than permanently installing sink, stove fridge etc. At some point I will get a travel trailer will all the rv stuff in it.
This is nice, G van with the older style lights.
https://youtu.be/KxUIMpbEE7o
Edited by 5ohmustang on Tuesday 7th February 04:38
Colonial said:
There is something incredibly naff about these I just can't resist.
Great read.
It's the glory of the 1980s, listen to https://youtu.be/yyYhZ9HH8cI and it takes you back to a simpler time. I can imagine being in route to Wally World with Clark Griswald when I turn the key. Cheap, practical, versatile and very relaxing to drive.Great read.
The old O ring in comparison to the new one is hard. I hope this is the fix. Swapped it out, transmission housing installed, driveshaft installed, topped up the tranny fluid.
I drove it down the street and the motor is smooth and effortless. I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow, although I believe the leak only would happen on a gradient.
Inspiration: https://wanderlust.com/journal/living-the-van-life...
I drove it down the street and the motor is smooth and effortless. I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow, although I believe the leak only would happen on a gradient.
Inspiration: https://wanderlust.com/journal/living-the-van-life...
Shakermaker said:
Not a bad read.
Interesting that Wal Mart seem to allow people to spend the night in their car park for free, can't imagine any Uk supermarket doing the same!
The U.S. doesn't have a problem with gypsies taking over car parks is my main guess.Interesting that Wal Mart seem to allow people to spend the night in their car park for free, can't imagine any Uk supermarket doing the same!
Walmart also sees it as the occupants of vans, rv'ers will spend their money at Walmart to resupply so they benefit from it too.
Typically boondocks park at the far side of the parking lot and keep themselves to themselves, take their trash with them and don't be a nasty dirtbags and dump grey or blackwater in the carpark.
I just drove the van to work for the first time. She started on the first attempt, Def Leopard came on the radio and we rolled out. I'm so pleased after all the messing about that it runs and runs pretty well.
Today was a successful commute in the Chevy van. I purchased some stp fuel injector cleaner and filled up the 33 gallon tank. 33 us gallons = 27.48 UK gallons= 125 litres.
It cost $60.72 for the fill up. At current exchange rate that works out at 48.72 quid. That may seem cheap but it costs about 2 quid to fill up my scooter which will get about 200 miles on a full tank.
This tank will be combination of city and highway driving I am aiming for 17 us mpg/20.5 UK mpg.
This is very cool
http://www.dailyturismo.com/2015/11/go-anywhere-mo...
So there are 3 antennas on the van. The regular radio, one on the side glass and one on the rear quarter. One is for the analog TV and I don't know about the other I'll take some photos tomorrow.
The one on the rear quarter can be removed, clean up the rust around the hole and it can be used to route the solar panels to a 6v golf cart batteries/inverter and charge controller. At some point I will install a CB and could possibly mount it to the rear ladder. Just some ideas.
http://www.climbing.com/news/true-cost-vanlife/
Providing I do the work myself the solar panel system should not cost more than $500 with a sharp 250 watt panel and the other components. The goal zero system above is really overpriced but it"s a plug and play system. I've had a goal zero solar panel for a few years and it works well, but dollar per watt makes conventional household panels better value for money.
It cost $60.72 for the fill up. At current exchange rate that works out at 48.72 quid. That may seem cheap but it costs about 2 quid to fill up my scooter which will get about 200 miles on a full tank.
This tank will be combination of city and highway driving I am aiming for 17 us mpg/20.5 UK mpg.
This is very cool
http://www.dailyturismo.com/2015/11/go-anywhere-mo...
So there are 3 antennas on the van. The regular radio, one on the side glass and one on the rear quarter. One is for the analog TV and I don't know about the other I'll take some photos tomorrow.
The one on the rear quarter can be removed, clean up the rust around the hole and it can be used to route the solar panels to a 6v golf cart batteries/inverter and charge controller. At some point I will install a CB and could possibly mount it to the rear ladder. Just some ideas.
http://www.climbing.com/news/true-cost-vanlife/
Providing I do the work myself the solar panel system should not cost more than $500 with a sharp 250 watt panel and the other components. The goal zero system above is really overpriced but it"s a plug and play system. I've had a goal zero solar panel for a few years and it works well, but dollar per watt makes conventional household panels better value for money.
Ok I ran half a tank, combined city and highway, some traffic jams, stop and go. I got 15.2 us mpg/ 18.2 UK mpg. Then I ran solely highway at 70mph, half mountains and half flat, netted 18 us mpg/22 UK mpg.
I also noticed one of the rear wheel studs sheered off. No idea why, I was careful not to over torque it.
I removed the wheel and brake drum, tried to knock it out with a hammer and punch, didn't move. I'll go to the auto parts store this week and see if they loan a stud remover.
However I did get rid of a high pitched squeal at slow speeds. An old metal brake dust cover was causing it. Also the o ring on the output shaft fixed the transmission leak.
I also noticed one of the rear wheel studs sheered off. No idea why, I was careful not to over torque it.
I removed the wheel and brake drum, tried to knock it out with a hammer and punch, didn't move. I'll go to the auto parts store this week and see if they loan a stud remover.
However I did get rid of a high pitched squeal at slow speeds. An old metal brake dust cover was causing it. Also the o ring on the output shaft fixed the transmission leak.
Ok, now I am stressed.
I went to AutoZone to see what if they have a stud remover for loan, they do not.
They are available on eBay for $200+.
It is probably cheaper to replace the whole hub and all 5studs that to buy a removal tool. I believe the hub is part of the axle tube. I've only ever removed axle tubes on big trucks and I cannot stand the smell of gear oil.
I loaned this tie rod removal tool.
It looks very close to the actual stud removal tool.
The problem is the cup on the end is too wide, I used a small socket and tried to press out the broken stud. Due to the cup and ball mount, the pressure ends up making the socket move around and does not center the pressure on the broken stud itself but also the hub.
I popped the cup off and tried to use the ball mount but the thread is too short.
I'm going to home depot (hardware store) to see if I can find a long bolt with the same matching thread and try to see if that will work. Just in case I am going to figuire out what I need to swap out the axle tube.
I might try some freeze out on the stud to contract it and try to tap it out again, I have a feeling after 27 years, it will not come out.
If anyone has ideas on how to remove this, fire away.
Here is the hub but on the other side with good threads. The thread in question is totally flush so I cannot screw on a nut and bang it out.
I also can not fit a bolt extractor socket back there as I did on the spark plug.
I went to AutoZone to see what if they have a stud remover for loan, they do not.
They are available on eBay for $200+.
It is probably cheaper to replace the whole hub and all 5studs that to buy a removal tool. I believe the hub is part of the axle tube. I've only ever removed axle tubes on big trucks and I cannot stand the smell of gear oil.
I loaned this tie rod removal tool.
It looks very close to the actual stud removal tool.
The problem is the cup on the end is too wide, I used a small socket and tried to press out the broken stud. Due to the cup and ball mount, the pressure ends up making the socket move around and does not center the pressure on the broken stud itself but also the hub.
I popped the cup off and tried to use the ball mount but the thread is too short.
I'm going to home depot (hardware store) to see if I can find a long bolt with the same matching thread and try to see if that will work. Just in case I am going to figuire out what I need to swap out the axle tube.
I might try some freeze out on the stud to contract it and try to tap it out again, I have a feeling after 27 years, it will not come out.
If anyone has ideas on how to remove this, fire away.
Here is the hub but on the other side with good threads. The thread in question is totally flush so I cannot screw on a nut and bang it out.
I also can not fit a bolt extractor socket back there as I did on the spark plug.
Not sure if I mentioned this earlier but the sale price of the van in 1994 was $38k, in today's money it is around $65k.
This compartment is for a radar detector, closes and opens and has a 12v socket.
The windshield trim is missing in the back ground as I am going to respray 3m adhesive on the trim to reattach the material.
It's missing the front spoiler which I think really finishes it.
I successfully drove my riding mower up the ramps into the back of the van but I did not account for the roof. Once I got the back wheels on the van I was stuck and had to slide myself off, due to my chest being on level with the roof. It was a comical sight to see.
The left rear door can be opened wider once the spare wheel is removed.
There is no way my motorcycle will fit in the back, even if the windshield is removed it will hit the roof.
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