Lotus Elise S1 Honda Conversion Build
Discussion
The Bandit said:
Get plenty of heat shield around that subframe particularly where the exhaust manifold will go.
There's some heat going to be produced in that little space...
+1 and wrap the exhaust manifold while your at it, also while you have the rear clam off cut away around the fog and reversing light (do a search on seloc) and buy or make a spacer kit for the rear diffuser, one of the biggest problems in the s1 is there no where for all that extra heat to go, it badly needs more airflow. I also installed a bigger mesh on the engine lid to allow the heat to escape quicker. There's some heat going to be produced in that little space...
TheRocket said:
The Bandit said:
Get plenty of heat shield around that subframe particularly where the exhaust manifold will go.
There's some heat going to be produced in that little space...
+1 and wrap the exhaust manifold while your at it, also while you have the rear clam off cut away around the fog and reversing light (do a search on seloc) and buy or make a spacer kit for the rear diffuser, one of the biggest problems in the s1 is there no where for all that extra heat to go, it badly needs more airflow. I also installed a bigger mesh on the engine lid to allow the heat to escape quicker. There's some heat going to be produced in that little space...
The Bandit said:
Get plenty of heat shield around that subframe particularly where the exhaust manifold will go.
There's some heat going to be produced in that little space...
More gold heat shield arrives tomorrow, thanks!There's some heat going to be produced in that little space...
TheRocket said:
+1 and wrap the exhaust manifold while your at it, also while you have the rear clam off cut away around the fog and reversing light (do a search on seloc) and buy or make a spacer kit for the rear diffuser, one of the biggest problems in the s1 is there no where for all that extra heat to go, it badly needs more airflow. I also installed a bigger mesh on the engine lid to allow the heat to escape quicker.
Seen this modification and liked the look of it. That's made my mind up that it's worth while, cheers.Your yellow S1 looks incredible, and must be unbelievably quick. It's how I'd like mine to end up. Good luck with the sale!
I've revised my initial ambition on power to around 300bhp, as can't justify the extra cost to charge cool it at the moment. The budget is already blown to pieces with adding the supercharger. Also concerned it'll be difficult to learn how it drives with this much power anyway.
What's your SC/CC Elise like?
It is/they are incredible little cars, the only performance measure I did on mine was in 3rd gear 30-70 mph which it did in 2.5 seconds ! Nitron suspension made a big difference too, standard brakes are upto the job with better pads, lines and discs etc. The drive shafts need good maintenance and the best grease you can buy as they take a fair bit of punsihment. I did a few track days and only cars that were quicer were Radicals, It walked away from GT3's. If I could keep it I would but I can't justify it at the moment. 300hp is plenty trust me !
Sounds great fun!!
Still waiting for the supercharger, which according to the Hermes tracking is sat at the sender's local depot and hasn't moved since Thursday afternoon.
I've started on the wiring...
From the horrible and sticky job of unwrapping the original loom to see where all the wires go:
To all labelled, read for the final loom to be created once I've worked out lengths and positioning:
Hopefully SWMBO doesn't notice that I stole most of her tit tape to label the wires
Still waiting for the supercharger, which according to the Hermes tracking is sat at the sender's local depot and hasn't moved since Thursday afternoon.
I've started on the wiring...
From the horrible and sticky job of unwrapping the original loom to see where all the wires go:
To all labelled, read for the final loom to be created once I've worked out lengths and positioning:
Hopefully SWMBO doesn't notice that I stole most of her tit tape to label the wires
Got ripped off - let's not talk about it More importantly - It runs!
https://youtu.be/maHwsOIjBvM
Spent the last week trying to figure out what was going on with the wiring, as it would not start!
Turned out that I simply hadn't connected one of the live feeds (label that I'd added to the brown live wire had come off)
Hours and hours wasted testing the multifunction relay unit, hot wiring the fuel pump, finally traced back to that.
All that's left is to bleed the clutch, some heat shield around the subframe, and reinstall the rear clam.
Wont be long now until it can be driven...
https://youtu.be/maHwsOIjBvM
Spent the last week trying to figure out what was going on with the wiring, as it would not start!
Turned out that I simply hadn't connected one of the live feeds (label that I'd added to the brown live wire had come off)
Hours and hours wasted testing the multifunction relay unit, hot wiring the fuel pump, finally traced back to that.All that's left is to bleed the clutch, some heat shield around the subframe, and reinstall the rear clam.
Wont be long now until it can be driven...
I've had the car working since the 8th of Feb, and the first drive felt insanely quick - far too fast even! The increase in power is brilliant.
There were a couple of set backs. The first was my original exhaust backbox wouldn't fit, and couldn't be modified to work. A four hour round trip in the daily and I had a new (to me) stainless steel backbox.
Then after the first run the radiator was leaking. The car had a standard radiator with plastic end caps, which fail under the increased pressure from the Honda engine. Alloy radiator ordered, and front clam removed in order to fit.
7 hours later and I'd got it fitted and back together!
Some pictures for the insurance agreed valuation:
The noise the car makes from inside the cabin is very similar which surprised me a bit. The car sounds identical in the lower half of the rev range, it's not until it hits VTEC that the car sounds significantly different. VTEC at first was left at the normal changeover RPM of around 5,600. It was a sudden change to the point it felt like the car had come on boost. (My girlfriend was reluctant to get back in the car after the first drive as she thought VTEC was me causing the rear wheels to lose traction!).
I've lowered it to 4,200rpm at full throttle and it much feels more linear, and seems a bit quicker too. Once it gets mapped they'll change this to rpm to suit.
The Wavetrac LSD that I wasn't sure was worth the extra outlay is incredible. Makes it much more predictable, and even before I'd changed the previous owner's mismatched rear tyres was providing great traction off the line. If anyone is thinking of doing this conversion, this part is well worth the extra money. It can't be changed without removing the engine from the car, so really had to be done as part of the build.
The final drive could do with being lowered from 4.7 to 4.0 as it sits at 4,000rpm at 80. It will definitely need this final drive ratio changed if I supercharge it. It drives so well as N/A though, and even in the wet it feels predictable and not over engined.
A lot of people have mentioned they don't like the gearshift on the Stark kit. I can't fault it. Does what's asked of it and has a better feel than standard (although that wouldn't be hard really).
As mentioned earlier, at low speed the engine vibrates a little on its relatively solid mounts and stays. It's no problem when moving, and seems to have calmed a little as the mounts bed in.
I've fitted Yokohama AD08R's - what a difference to the Toyo's! They have incredible wet grip, and are better in the dry too. Unlike the Toyo's which seem to be allergic to damp or wet conditions
Spent the day driving it today in the pouring rain on some fantastic roads
Absolutely love it!
There were a couple of set backs. The first was my original exhaust backbox wouldn't fit, and couldn't be modified to work. A four hour round trip in the daily and I had a new (to me) stainless steel backbox.
Then after the first run the radiator was leaking. The car had a standard radiator with plastic end caps, which fail under the increased pressure from the Honda engine. Alloy radiator ordered, and front clam removed in order to fit.
7 hours later and I'd got it fitted and back together! Some pictures for the insurance agreed valuation:
The noise the car makes from inside the cabin is very similar which surprised me a bit. The car sounds identical in the lower half of the rev range, it's not until it hits VTEC that the car sounds significantly different. VTEC at first was left at the normal changeover RPM of around 5,600. It was a sudden change to the point it felt like the car had come on boost. (My girlfriend was reluctant to get back in the car after the first drive as she thought VTEC was me causing the rear wheels to lose traction!).
I've lowered it to 4,200rpm at full throttle and it much feels more linear, and seems a bit quicker too. Once it gets mapped they'll change this to rpm to suit.
The Wavetrac LSD that I wasn't sure was worth the extra outlay is incredible. Makes it much more predictable, and even before I'd changed the previous owner's mismatched rear tyres was providing great traction off the line. If anyone is thinking of doing this conversion, this part is well worth the extra money. It can't be changed without removing the engine from the car, so really had to be done as part of the build.
The final drive could do with being lowered from 4.7 to 4.0 as it sits at 4,000rpm at 80. It will definitely need this final drive ratio changed if I supercharge it. It drives so well as N/A though, and even in the wet it feels predictable and not over engined.
A lot of people have mentioned they don't like the gearshift on the Stark kit. I can't fault it. Does what's asked of it and has a better feel than standard (although that wouldn't be hard really).
As mentioned earlier, at low speed the engine vibrates a little on its relatively solid mounts and stays. It's no problem when moving, and seems to have calmed a little as the mounts bed in.
I've fitted Yokohama AD08R's - what a difference to the Toyo's! They have incredible wet grip, and are better in the dry too. Unlike the Toyo's which seem to be allergic to damp or wet conditions
Spent the day driving it today in the pouring rain on some fantastic roads
Absolutely love it!
I'd take your advice over anyone else's Dan, given the quality of the conversions you produce! Maybe I need a longer 6th (or 5th and 6th)?
100dB at 4000rpm with the roof on is a bit tiresome. Roof off the noise doesn't seem to bother me! I'd wanted to be able to drive it to the great roads usually via motorway, with out earplugs or noise cancelling headphones.
Also, cruising through 40mph villages in 6th when in any other car I'd be in 4th seems wrong.
What's your thoughts?
100dB at 4000rpm with the roof on is a bit tiresome. Roof off the noise doesn't seem to bother me! I'd wanted to be able to drive it to the great roads usually via motorway, with out earplugs or noise cancelling headphones.
Also, cruising through 40mph villages in 6th when in any other car I'd be in 4th seems wrong.
What's your thoughts?
Good to see it up and running Will. I know what you mean about short gearing, on an SC car 1st is a bit of a waste of time and 6th is really a bit short too, I actually have a 3.9 F/D to go in my car but never got around to fitting it but I can also understand what Dan says on an N/A car it will be too long. I think Essex Autosport may have had some longer 6th gears made for the k20 but had some problems with them so they never actually used them.
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