2008 Renault Sport Megane 175
Discussion
marc12 said:
I’ve been looking at an LSD option, but not coming up with anything so far...
This is on my list, too... It uses the same PK4 gearbox series as the Megane 250/265/275, and the Cup models of those have an LSD. Simplest way is to buy a complete gearbox and send it off to a gearbox refurbisher and get the differential swapped over, but still not cheap.Mini update
Never liked the cloth interior, and with the seats gone the final bit was the door cards. Not only were they cheap and nasty, but had cigarette burns too. Nice.
Arranged to get some leather ones, made the two and a half hour journey to find... we'd got the days mixed up and the seller wasn't there!
I then refined my search to something a bit closer and eventually got lucky again. Not only are these leather, but they are from the earlier phase 1 model which means they have red/orange stitching which I think it quite fetching.
I wasn't aware that the rear leather door cards (from a lux model) have additional sound deadening fitted, too.
Unfortunately one of the door pockets is broken, no idea if I will be able to track one down for a reasonable price
Another difference was that being a non-lux, my car doesn't have any puddle lights, but the lux ones do. I managed to take the door looms at the same time which are plug and play.
duds100 said:
Well done on a great read. Out of interest, how does the standard clutch cope with the 350lb ft?
It's only been about 10k, but nothings exploded yet. At 100k i'm expecting it'll probably need a new clutch in the next couple of years.I've seen owners running more power without major issues, although I remain skeptical about many other owners power claims...
Got home one day and heard a "hissing" noise from the rear of the car... first puncture in 9 years of driving. Felt a bit deflated (buddum-tish).
On goes the spare:
I do have a full-size spare, but the tyre is dead, so the space saver was handy!
Interestingly although it's a space saver, it's a 185 section tyre with a max speed of 78 MPH so you can barely tell it's on, was very impressed.
Rear tyres were nearly dead budgets anyway, so popped on some Vredestein Ultrac Vorti's. Couldn't find any Sessanta's to match the fronts unfortunately. Downsides are that lift off oversteer is significantly reduced!
Swapped the front dash cam for something a bit more discreet, just need a 90 degree USB cable to finish it off.
I also fitted one to the rear after being rear-ended last year
Virtually invisible from the outside (it's below the hi level brake light)
This one is a bit marmite.
I've always thought that the interior was very drab, black, grey and the odd bit of silver.
On my last car I found painting the interior trim really helped liven it up
So I did the same again
Doesn't "fit" as well but it certainly brightens it up a lot. I like it. I think I could do with a couple of other highlights in the interior to balance it a bit more.
Another small change was the steering wheel. The standard one looks a bit dated.
The steering wheel from a Clio 197 is a straight swap and is a bit chunkier. Not a massive difference, and the replacement is not perfect, but a nice upgrade for £30.
Sorry for the lack of updates, been juggling doing up my house and arranging a wedding which has meant the car has taken a back seat.
Got to try the car out in the snow, unfortunately was much worse than I thought it'd be. Not sure why - my last car had the same tyres in virtually the same size and was much better. Winter wheels & tyres are now in the list!
From one extreme to the other - hottest day of the year and the electric window packs up.
Common Megane fault - normally the regulator. Stripped it down to have a look, but found all it needed was some contact cleaner in the connections on the window motor. Cheap fix, but a pain to strip down - especially when it was 29 degrees outside!
My number plate lights have yet again stopped working. This is a common fault where the connectors on the end of the loom allow in water and then corrode.
I replaced these last year with a second hand one which has died again. The one I pulled off the car wasn't original either, so not a durable part. This time I spent £50 on the new Renault part.
To remove the loom, you need to remove the rear plastic tailgate trim
Then the wiring just pulls through
£50 for a piece of wire that long - I was robbed!
Still, all works now
Last year, I replaced all the calipers with second hand ones I rebuilt. Unfortunately since then I've been getting a horrible noise from one rear corner when reversing, which I've long suspected was a sticking caliper, but have been deliberately ignoring.
Finally felt I had to do something about it - definitely sticking. Seeing as I'd already replaced the seals and piston before, I figured whatever was wrong was something more serious and beyond me, so I bought a new caliper. As I'd painted them red, I couldn't be bothered to do it again so spent a bit more on a genuine red one from Renault.
The sticking caliper has also worn the pads down quite a lot, I felt a bit bad putting the old pads back on. However I only replaced them late last year so am annoyed they are nearly gone, but also the discs would probably need replacing too - the brake discs feature an integrated wheel bearing and are £150 for the pair so will run them to the limit to get my moneys worth.
Also noticed that the rubber covers on the caliper sliders have disintegrated after only a few months so replaced them too.
After replacing the caliper, I bled the system but the pedal feel was horrible.
I gave it a day and then bled it again, but barely any better.
I then waited a week and gave several ABS activations before bleeding a third time before finally getting the pedal feel back to where I wanted it.
Pollen filter is down as a 12k service item - seems way too often for me so I stretched it out a little. Came out looking ok so might leave it longer next time.
I took part in my first autosolo, too - for those who aren't aware, it's a timed motorsport around a course laid out with cones. Speed is low (30 MPH max) so risk and cost are very low (£35 entry), but it is competitive.
I've been wanting to do some kind of motorsport for a while, but I've been put off trackdays due to the cost of the day, cost of worn tyres / brakes, stonechips and potential for getting crashed into by other drivers. I figured that autosolo would have none of these risks.
Unfortunately, I was very, very wrong! Although the speed is low, there's lots of wheelspinning etc so still hard on the tyres. Because it's all low speed, hard on the clutch. And because it's timed, you have to push very very hard - on a poor surface (potholes etc).
You can see one run here - https://youtu.be/6ERu0yYmtPk
Got to try the car out in the snow, unfortunately was much worse than I thought it'd be. Not sure why - my last car had the same tyres in virtually the same size and was much better. Winter wheels & tyres are now in the list!
From one extreme to the other - hottest day of the year and the electric window packs up.
Common Megane fault - normally the regulator. Stripped it down to have a look, but found all it needed was some contact cleaner in the connections on the window motor. Cheap fix, but a pain to strip down - especially when it was 29 degrees outside!
My number plate lights have yet again stopped working. This is a common fault where the connectors on the end of the loom allow in water and then corrode.
I replaced these last year with a second hand one which has died again. The one I pulled off the car wasn't original either, so not a durable part. This time I spent £50 on the new Renault part.
To remove the loom, you need to remove the rear plastic tailgate trim
Then the wiring just pulls through
£50 for a piece of wire that long - I was robbed!
Still, all works now
Last year, I replaced all the calipers with second hand ones I rebuilt. Unfortunately since then I've been getting a horrible noise from one rear corner when reversing, which I've long suspected was a sticking caliper, but have been deliberately ignoring.
Finally felt I had to do something about it - definitely sticking. Seeing as I'd already replaced the seals and piston before, I figured whatever was wrong was something more serious and beyond me, so I bought a new caliper. As I'd painted them red, I couldn't be bothered to do it again so spent a bit more on a genuine red one from Renault.
The sticking caliper has also worn the pads down quite a lot, I felt a bit bad putting the old pads back on. However I only replaced them late last year so am annoyed they are nearly gone, but also the discs would probably need replacing too - the brake discs feature an integrated wheel bearing and are £150 for the pair so will run them to the limit to get my moneys worth.
Also noticed that the rubber covers on the caliper sliders have disintegrated after only a few months so replaced them too.
After replacing the caliper, I bled the system but the pedal feel was horrible.
I gave it a day and then bled it again, but barely any better.
I then waited a week and gave several ABS activations before bleeding a third time before finally getting the pedal feel back to where I wanted it.
Pollen filter is down as a 12k service item - seems way too often for me so I stretched it out a little. Came out looking ok so might leave it longer next time.
I took part in my first autosolo, too - for those who aren't aware, it's a timed motorsport around a course laid out with cones. Speed is low (30 MPH max) so risk and cost are very low (£35 entry), but it is competitive.
I've been wanting to do some kind of motorsport for a while, but I've been put off trackdays due to the cost of the day, cost of worn tyres / brakes, stonechips and potential for getting crashed into by other drivers. I figured that autosolo would have none of these risks.
Unfortunately, I was very, very wrong! Although the speed is low, there's lots of wheelspinning etc so still hard on the tyres. Because it's all low speed, hard on the clutch. And because it's timed, you have to push very very hard - on a poor surface (potholes etc).
You can see one run here - https://youtu.be/6ERu0yYmtPk
Edited by Jakg on Tuesday 18th February 20:37
Joey Deacon said:
I am surprised you are having so many issues with the car, I thought the Phase 2 Meganes were much more reliable? I have an 07 1.5 DCi which I bought as a shed and it has been faultless over the 11k miles I have owned it. It passed the MOT on Saturday with no advisories which makes it 5 in a row now.
Quite a lot of the "issues" are things that I could ignore, but just don't want to. I think my style of car maintenance is perhaps more suited to something more expensive where the car is still worth something when you come to sell it!Joey Deacon said:
Having watched the video I was cringing with the state of that tarmac. I would literally only do that with a car I had no interest in, that was one MOT failure away from the scrapyard.
Yes, it seems like I misunderstood the requirements somewhat - every other car was a bit of a state on the outside, but usually stipped and caged on the inside.Joey Deacon said:
By the way, how did you find changing the pollen filter, I found it impossible to do without breaking the plastic tabs along the edge.
I think (but can't remember) that some of the pollen filters have a plastic frame around the edge, but the Mann ones I use don't so you can just bend them in.It's one of the only jobs thats actually easier because it's RHD - you already have access so it's a 1 minute swap. Everyone else has to pull the glovebox out to do it.
Boring update.
Picked up a stone chip, which caused a small crack in the windscreen. Was considering whether I could away without repairing it for about 30 seconds until it decided for me and started to grow.
I tried to do some more highlights in the interior.
I had a spare set of door handle trims so did those first.
I also bought a trim for the steering wheel and did the same there
I think the steering wheel one looks ok, but not so sure about the door trim!
I've also gained a bubble under the lacquer on the bonnet in the recent heatwave. Thanks car!
On the plus side, I bought the Megane a friend.
Picked up a stone chip, which caused a small crack in the windscreen. Was considering whether I could away without repairing it for about 30 seconds until it decided for me and started to grow.
I tried to do some more highlights in the interior.
I had a spare set of door handle trims so did those first.
I also bought a trim for the steering wheel and did the same there
I think the steering wheel one looks ok, but not so sure about the door trim!
I've also gained a bubble under the lacquer on the bonnet in the recent heatwave. Thanks car!
On the plus side, I bought the Megane a friend.
Got a chip my 6 week old windscreen. I was not amused.
MOT is looming and the rear pads (that I fitted barely a year ago) are toast thanks to the sticking rear caliper. On the plus side at least I got my moneys worth
Counterholding the slide pins while undoing the bolts is normally a tricky affair so I sacrificed a spanner to make it easier
The discs needed replacing as well. On the Megane they have an integrated wheel bearing. Not only is the disc unique to the RenaultSport model, but the later cars need a different fitment due to a different rear beam. As such they are very tricky to find, and expensive. Renault want £300, but I managed to pick up a pair of Mintex for £122. £122, for unvented plain discs!
The disc is held on by a single 36mm bolt. I only had a 3/8" 36mm socket. Imagine what 220nm on a 3/4" torque wrench does to a 3/8" adaptor? RIP adaptor.
Luckily Amazon delivered me a 1/2" socket the next day.
When trying to rewind one of the rear calipers, it was virtually impossible, so I got a new one.
Bearing in mind I bought used rear calipers last summer and refurbed them (new seals & pistons), and I've now had to replace both of them with new ones, I'm wondering if they were both totally shagged when I got them, or if I've damaged them while refurbing them.
Running costs wise over the last 2 years were at the following:
Fuel - 12.7p per mile (46.9 MPG)
Consumables - 4.1p per mile
Servicing - 1.1p per mile
Repairs - 5.2p per mile
Depreciation - 1.9p per mile
Inc tax / insurance works out to a total of 30.5p per mile which I think is reasonable - slightly more than my last car (the MG ZT) but parts are more expensive and a longer ownership helped to hide some of the costs.
MOT is looming and the rear pads (that I fitted barely a year ago) are toast thanks to the sticking rear caliper. On the plus side at least I got my moneys worth
Counterholding the slide pins while undoing the bolts is normally a tricky affair so I sacrificed a spanner to make it easier
The discs needed replacing as well. On the Megane they have an integrated wheel bearing. Not only is the disc unique to the RenaultSport model, but the later cars need a different fitment due to a different rear beam. As such they are very tricky to find, and expensive. Renault want £300, but I managed to pick up a pair of Mintex for £122. £122, for unvented plain discs!
The disc is held on by a single 36mm bolt. I only had a 3/8" 36mm socket. Imagine what 220nm on a 3/4" torque wrench does to a 3/8" adaptor? RIP adaptor.
Luckily Amazon delivered me a 1/2" socket the next day.
When trying to rewind one of the rear calipers, it was virtually impossible, so I got a new one.
Bearing in mind I bought used rear calipers last summer and refurbed them (new seals & pistons), and I've now had to replace both of them with new ones, I'm wondering if they were both totally shagged when I got them, or if I've damaged them while refurbing them.
C70R said:
I actually think they are pretty decent cars if you need the fuel economy. The one thing I'll never understand is how some people prioritise jobs. For example, persistent faffing with the bodywork and swapping out the entire interior while running ditchfinder rear tyres and re-using brake pads...
The car came with ditchfinders but as they wore out were replaced with Vredesteins.Running costs wise over the last 2 years were at the following:
Fuel - 12.7p per mile (46.9 MPG)
Consumables - 4.1p per mile
Servicing - 1.1p per mile
Repairs - 5.2p per mile
Depreciation - 1.9p per mile
Inc tax / insurance works out to a total of 30.5p per mile which I think is reasonable - slightly more than my last car (the MG ZT) but parts are more expensive and a longer ownership helped to hide some of the costs.
Edited by Jakg on Thursday 20th September 16:53
Edited by Jakg on Thursday 20th September 16:56
Failed MOT on a worn ball joint and advisory on a worn inner tie rod. Annoying, as both parts are about 2 years old. I replaced pretty much the entire front suspension when I got the car to avoid random wearing out of parts!
Out with the strut
Collateral damage was a drop link - ball joints are fine but the head has eroded such that you can't counter hold it. Buzzed it loose and then couldn't tighten it or loosen it because it would just spin.
Removed the bottom end from the anti-roll bar instead and with better access I could get it off and replace it
The ball joints are available separately and can be pressed into the arm. Typically this is done with a press which is how I did it last time, but the arms need to be off the car and this is significantly more work.
Instead I picked up an on-car ball joint service tool. Basically a very large C clamp and various bits of metal. I probably could of done it with my hydraulic press and some old sockets, but I only had a weekend to fix it in and wanted to be prepared so bought one. I only really needed the metal bits but the whole kit was only £10 more.
Very easily pushed the old ball joint out with the aid of an impact gun.
Getting the new one in was slightly more tricky - I got it most of the way in easily enough but getting it the last few mm was basically impossible with the tool as it was, not helped by the large size of the tool and the flex in the arm bushes. Out comes the trusty hydraulic press...
Out with the strut
Collateral damage was a drop link - ball joints are fine but the head has eroded such that you can't counter hold it. Buzzed it loose and then couldn't tighten it or loosen it because it would just spin.
Removed the bottom end from the anti-roll bar instead and with better access I could get it off and replace it
The ball joints are available separately and can be pressed into the arm. Typically this is done with a press which is how I did it last time, but the arms need to be off the car and this is significantly more work.
Instead I picked up an on-car ball joint service tool. Basically a very large C clamp and various bits of metal. I probably could of done it with my hydraulic press and some old sockets, but I only had a weekend to fix it in and wanted to be prepared so bought one. I only really needed the metal bits but the whole kit was only £10 more.
Very easily pushed the old ball joint out with the aid of an impact gun.
Getting the new one in was slightly more tricky - I got it most of the way in easily enough but getting it the last few mm was basically impossible with the tool as it was, not helped by the large size of the tool and the flex in the arm bushes. Out comes the trusty hydraulic press...
Took it on holiday
Got a vinyl cutter at work - so obviously my colleagues vandalised my car when I wasn't looking
Window packed up again - waters made its way into the window motor connector. Reseating it fixed it, but annoying to get to.
The interior fan also packed up. Initially worked on settings 1-3, but not on 4 - all signs pointed to the resistor, so replaced that and the connector. But then nothing worked at all!
Ended up removing the fan and found it open circuit. I thought it'd be horrible to remove and while it's buried deep inside the centre console, and needs to be carefully tweezed past all the wiring / hardware to get it out, you only have to remove the glovebox to do it.
Got a new one and tested it in the footwell and worked fine.
Fit it all back together, and setting 4 no longer works!
Turns out there was a loose connection between the resistor and it's plug - i'm not sure if it was because it was a non-OEM replacement resistor and connector, but it wasn't quite clicking into place - drilled a small hole and used a cable tie to hold it in place and it's been fine.
Got a vinyl cutter at work - so obviously my colleagues vandalised my car when I wasn't looking
Window packed up again - waters made its way into the window motor connector. Reseating it fixed it, but annoying to get to.
The interior fan also packed up. Initially worked on settings 1-3, but not on 4 - all signs pointed to the resistor, so replaced that and the connector. But then nothing worked at all!
Ended up removing the fan and found it open circuit. I thought it'd be horrible to remove and while it's buried deep inside the centre console, and needs to be carefully tweezed past all the wiring / hardware to get it out, you only have to remove the glovebox to do it.
Got a new one and tested it in the footwell and worked fine.
Fit it all back together, and setting 4 no longer works!
Turns out there was a loose connection between the resistor and it's plug - i'm not sure if it was because it was a non-OEM replacement resistor and connector, but it wasn't quite clicking into place - drilled a small hole and used a cable tie to hold it in place and it's been fine.
MOT fail on a corroded brake line - luckily it's a part you can buy off-the-shelf from Renault
Broke out my new brake bleeder
Very clean brake fluid came out as expected
Window packed up again so replaced the TEMIC module. Unfortunately while it works, one touch up seems to have disappeared.
Having gone through several reversing cameras I tried to waterproof the next one with some silicone
Broke out my new brake bleeder
Very clean brake fluid came out as expected
Window packed up again so replaced the TEMIC module. Unfortunately while it works, one touch up seems to have disappeared.
Having gone through several reversing cameras I tried to waterproof the next one with some silicone
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