VW Transporter Day Van Conversion
Discussion
ChocolateFrog said:
Mark Benson said:
It's looking great.
Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
To be honest I haven't looked into it enough to go solar, one for the future. My wallet has been feeling the pain recently. Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
I've got all the big ticket items I want at the moment less an Eberspacher D2 which will probably be the next big purchase.
Appliances will be, fridge, TV, heater (propex most likely), USB chargers, lights and various bit and bobs. Estimate the draw to be somewhere in the region of 500w per day more if we are on batteries only over night with an inverter etc.
geeks said:
ChocolateFrog said:
Mark Benson said:
It's looking great.
Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
To be honest I haven't looked into it enough to go solar, one for the future. My wallet has been feeling the pain recently. Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
I've got all the big ticket items I want at the moment less an Eberspacher D2 which will probably be the next big purchase.
Appliances will be, fridge, TV, heater (propex most likely), USB chargers, lights and various bit and bobs. Estimate the draw to be somewhere in the region of 500w per day more if we are on batteries only over night with an inverter etc.
Got a couple of jobs ticked off today.
First was an annoying bit of rust running along the bottom of the sliding door. There's a tube that runs from the extrenal handle down to the drain hole in the bottom of the door, I'd assumed that it had got blocked up but all looked clear so no obvious reason that I could find.
To gain access the door had to come off, not difficult just a bit twitchy that close to the bodywork.
And a close up of the worst part.
Used a flap disc to remove all the paint and rust. Was contemplating giving it a skim of filler but due to its location it will barely be seen and most of it will be covered by ply so didn't bother.
A couple of coats of primer, 3 coats of VW Reflex silver and 4 coats of laquer later it was looking much better.
Needed 3 hands to reattach it but just to prove I managed it.
In between waiting for the paint to dry I made a start on the cab. First job was sound deadening the floor.
I couldn't justify the cost of Dynamat or Silent Coat so I used Flashbond, the lead replacement flashing. The cab took 1 roll which was £10, even if it's 50% as good as dynamat I'll be happy.
With that job done I could refit the flooring and side steps.
Amazing what a difference that made.
I've bought a tracker which I'll fit tomorrow along with reassembling the dash and progressing a bit more with the electrics.
First was an annoying bit of rust running along the bottom of the sliding door. There's a tube that runs from the extrenal handle down to the drain hole in the bottom of the door, I'd assumed that it had got blocked up but all looked clear so no obvious reason that I could find.
To gain access the door had to come off, not difficult just a bit twitchy that close to the bodywork.
And a close up of the worst part.
Used a flap disc to remove all the paint and rust. Was contemplating giving it a skim of filler but due to its location it will barely be seen and most of it will be covered by ply so didn't bother.
A couple of coats of primer, 3 coats of VW Reflex silver and 4 coats of laquer later it was looking much better.
Needed 3 hands to reattach it but just to prove I managed it.
In between waiting for the paint to dry I made a start on the cab. First job was sound deadening the floor.
I couldn't justify the cost of Dynamat or Silent Coat so I used Flashbond, the lead replacement flashing. The cab took 1 roll which was £10, even if it's 50% as good as dynamat I'll be happy.
With that job done I could refit the flooring and side steps.
Amazing what a difference that made.
I've bought a tracker which I'll fit tomorrow along with reassembling the dash and progressing a bit more with the electrics.
Barchettaman said:
You're flying through it - fantastic work.
Another RC thread where, although I have no need of a similar vehicle, I bet if I had one suddenly I'd find a gazillion fun things to do with it!
In the same way a dog gets you out the house I'm hoping this is the excuse I need to explore a bit more. Another RC thread where, although I have no need of a similar vehicle, I bet if I had one suddenly I'd find a gazillion fun things to do with it!
Another couple of quick jobs ticked off.
With added scene tax!
Also changed the bonnet stay for a gas strut, 5 minutes work but so much better.
And last night I sound deadened the ceiling.
I've also filled the ceiling ribs with expanding acoustic foam. May even add a few Nm to the torsional rigidity who knows.
With added scene tax!
Also changed the bonnet stay for a gas strut, 5 minutes work but so much better.
And last night I sound deadened the ceiling.
I've also filled the ceiling ribs with expanding acoustic foam. May even add a few Nm to the torsional rigidity who knows.
Mark Benson said:
geeks said:
ChocolateFrog said:
Mark Benson said:
It's looking great.
Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
To be honest I haven't looked into it enough to go solar, one for the future. My wallet has been feeling the pain recently. Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
I've got all the big ticket items I want at the moment less an Eberspacher D2 which will probably be the next big purchase.
Appliances will be, fridge, TV, heater (propex most likely), USB chargers, lights and various bit and bobs. Estimate the draw to be somewhere in the region of 500w per day more if we are on batteries only over night with an inverter etc.
Useful Pic
geeks said:
Mark Benson said:
geeks said:
ChocolateFrog said:
Mark Benson said:
It's looking great.
Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
To be honest I haven't looked into it enough to go solar, one for the future. My wallet has been feeling the pain recently. Thought about solar for the leisure battery? I did it with ours and completely removed the need for a split charger, panel on roof has the battery fully charged every morning (running a fridge 24x7, lighting and charging tablet, phones etc.).
I've got all the big ticket items I want at the moment less an Eberspacher D2 which will probably be the next big purchase.
Appliances will be, fridge, TV, heater (propex most likely), USB chargers, lights and various bit and bobs. Estimate the draw to be somewhere in the region of 500w per day more if we are on batteries only over night with an inverter etc.
Useful Pic
LeighW said:
Have you bought the windows yet? I fitted a slider on the driver's side and a fixed on the passenger side, and tbh I wish I'd put a slider on both sides - it can get quite warm in the back.
Yes but I've gone for fixed all round, possibly a mistake although my van doesn't have AC which I'm now thinking is probably a mistake so I've been looking at Truma Saphir AC and heating units in one, would probably fit under the floor. Heard there are problems with the sliding windows leaking although this might just be genuine ones. My intention would be to open the side door if it got too hot.
ChocolateFrog - could you do me a real favour. I want to fit a fabric pull strap in the back for my rear passenger to hold on to when cornering (my rock-n-roller seat is vinyl and quite slippy). I need to find one of the larger holes under the rear window behind the pillar for the sliding door to attach the strap via (using a threaded rivnut hopefully). As you've got your van stripped out, could you take a picture with a ruler/tape measure below it to give me a fighting chance of drilling through the board and carpeting that's glued in place in my van. Ta
gpb1 said:
ChocolateFrog - could you do me a real favour. I want to fit a fabric pull strap in the back for my rear passenger to hold on to when cornering (my rock-n-roller seat is vinyl and quite slippy). I need to find one of the larger holes under the rear window behind the pillar for the sliding door to attach the strap via (using a threaded rivnut hopefully). As you've got your van stripped out, could you take a picture with a ruler/tape measure below it to give me a fighting chance of drilling through the board and carpeting that's glued in place in my van. Ta
You might be a day too late. I think I covered it up with insulation today! I'll check tomorrow but pretty sure they've been covered over.Got some of the insulation in, then ran out, always end up needing more!
First quick job was replacing the drivers door seal, the previous owner must have stepped on it everytime he got in and out.
Then onto the insulation.
I went for foil, insulation, foil. Where there is only a single skin like the rear window blanks I taped the seams to try and create a vapour barrier thus minimising any condensation that might form against the cold panel.
For those who want to know quantities I've used:
7 rolls of flashing (225mm x 10m). That includes 2 rolls for the floor that haven't gone down yet and a doubling up over the wheel arches.
4 rolls of B and Q foil insulation.
4 rolls of B and Q recycled plastic insulation.
2 aerosols of spray glue and a roll of duck tape plus many hours of hair dyer action.
Total cost of sound deadening and insulation is £210.
First quick job was replacing the drivers door seal, the previous owner must have stepped on it everytime he got in and out.
Then onto the insulation.
I went for foil, insulation, foil. Where there is only a single skin like the rear window blanks I taped the seams to try and create a vapour barrier thus minimising any condensation that might form against the cold panel.
For those who want to know quantities I've used:
7 rolls of flashing (225mm x 10m). That includes 2 rolls for the floor that haven't gone down yet and a doubling up over the wheel arches.
4 rolls of B and Q foil insulation.
4 rolls of B and Q recycled plastic insulation.
2 aerosols of spray glue and a roll of duck tape plus many hours of hair dyer action.
Total cost of sound deadening and insulation is £210.
Edited by ChocolateFrog on Wednesday 15th March 19:10
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