Hold(en) my beer - Monaro, Ute and Commodore content
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still low mileage, SORN through winter.
Tidied up this PCV hose so it runs along the top coolant pipe and is a bit neater / not floating in front of the cylinder head.
As the factory idle map only has so much scope for adjustment, it meant the extra 10% capacity and the fancy heads and the lumpy cam etc. was limiting the amount of idle air adjustment it could make, as it was already operating near the top of its window.
To this end I'd previously put in a 1.5mm hole into the throttle blade. This helps put the idle adjustments back towards the middle of their range, and means the throttle isn't as cracked open at idle, which gives a big increase in airflow with tiny pedal inputs.
This had improved the manners a bit, so I went up to a 2mm hole. My tuner advised to try 3mm from the off but I was apprehensive as it's hard to put the metal back on...
Cleaned up the various ABS connector contacts as best I could, plugged it all back in and tried it:
So far, no light. I have made sure not to say the f#x#d word out loud as I don't want to upset it, so for the moment I'm just saying that currently the light is not on.
It doesn't scrape on the drive, and it made it up and down the road about 50m also without the warning light coming on. It was also a lot happier returning to idle it seemed and not hunting, although that's based on about 30 seconds so we shall see.
I was too distracted to pay any attention to the ride, although the fact I didn't notice anything makes me mildly optimistic for the potential comfort level. Leaving for work this morning the BRZ is noticeably 'stiffer' / more 'this car is on coilovers' so we shall see.
It's quite possibly MOT time, I don't think I have any other excuses
As the factory idle map only has so much scope for adjustment, it meant the extra 10% capacity and the fancy heads and the lumpy cam etc. was limiting the amount of idle air adjustment it could make, as it was already operating near the top of its window.
To this end I'd previously put in a 1.5mm hole into the throttle blade. This helps put the idle adjustments back towards the middle of their range, and means the throttle isn't as cracked open at idle, which gives a big increase in airflow with tiny pedal inputs.
This had improved the manners a bit, so I went up to a 2mm hole. My tuner advised to try 3mm from the off but I was apprehensive as it's hard to put the metal back on...
Cleaned up the various ABS connector contacts as best I could, plugged it all back in and tried it:
So far, no light. I have made sure not to say the f#x#d word out loud as I don't want to upset it, so for the moment I'm just saying that currently the light is not on.
It doesn't scrape on the drive, and it made it up and down the road about 50m also without the warning light coming on. It was also a lot happier returning to idle it seemed and not hunting, although that's based on about 30 seconds so we shall see.
I was too distracted to pay any attention to the ride, although the fact I didn't notice anything makes me mildly optimistic for the potential comfort level. Leaving for work this morning the BRZ is noticeably 'stiffer' / more 'this car is on coilovers' so we shall see.
It's quite possibly MOT time, I don't think I have any other excuses
Edited by SturdyHSV on Monday 15th April 08:43
Shuffled things around on the drive yesterday and having sat untouched since the last post, the ABS light was immediately back on before even starting the engine.
My suspicions have temporarily turned to the battery. It's 7 years odl, it's had a hard life, the cars are fussy about battery voltages and it was completely dead a couple of months ago and required a couple of attempts to recharge (trickle charger refused the first time). It had been on trickle the whole time prior to the previous post when there was consistently no fault light for a while, and now having sat outside for a little while, the light is on.
It's a bit of a long shot as it still cranks the engine absolutely fine, but we shall see.
My suspicions have temporarily turned to the battery. It's 7 years odl, it's had a hard life, the cars are fussy about battery voltages and it was completely dead a couple of months ago and required a couple of attempts to recharge (trickle charger refused the first time). It had been on trickle the whole time prior to the previous post when there was consistently no fault light for a while, and now having sat outside for a little while, the light is on.
It's a bit of a long shot as it still cranks the engine absolutely fine, but we shall see.
So I replaced the battery on Saturday, ABS light went back out again, yay.
Noticed the bit of surface corrosion bottom left there, so wire wheeled that back
Kurust was applied, but in the end I wired that back off and just gave it a couple of coats of etch primer
Will throw some paint over that this evening assuming it isn't raining, just seemed to be a random breakout so easily sorted at least. Quite possibly something was spilt in the boot once.
As part of this little process, I turned the ignition back on again just to test the ABS light stayed out, annnd it came back on
The ground above perhaps isn't as tidy as it could be, and the crimped end on the cable did come off and is now held on by the wrapping tape, so I have ordered a replacement for that (something I'd been meaning to do anyway) but at this point I need to get a Tech2 on it and find out what's going on because just continually firing the parts cannon at it is a bit silly
Noticed the bit of surface corrosion bottom left there, so wire wheeled that back
Kurust was applied, but in the end I wired that back off and just gave it a couple of coats of etch primer
Will throw some paint over that this evening assuming it isn't raining, just seemed to be a random breakout so easily sorted at least. Quite possibly something was spilt in the boot once.
As part of this little process, I turned the ignition back on again just to test the ABS light stayed out, annnd it came back on
The ground above perhaps isn't as tidy as it could be, and the crimped end on the cable did come off and is now held on by the wrapping tape, so I have ordered a replacement for that (something I'd been meaning to do anyway) but at this point I need to get a Tech2 on it and find out what's going on because just continually firing the parts cannon at it is a bit silly
ABS light was back on, so thought I'd try the wire bridging pins in the OBD2 port diagnostic, sadly I think that's only on VYs as it didn't do anything.
In trying that the ABS light then went off again after an ignition cycle (I've tried it loads this week and it's stayed on, very odd) but naturally it came back on again shortly after.
As it was a nice day I tinkered about a bit. There's some rotational play in the steering wheel adapter boss, American Aftermarket tolerances and all that
May just be aluminium splines vs steel splines of the steering shaft too. Anyway, retightening the bolt with the impact gun has sorted that out which was pleasing.
In case the PS pump is related to the light (it does cause a voltage drop when it kicks in) I've now wired it to an unused switch in the centre so I can just manually switch it on once the engine is running.
I also fixed the horn that wasn't working, the ground to the horn body had come free, so sorted that out as well.
Naturally this unrelated tinkering has now 'fixed' the ABS light again so who knows! Have ignition cycled it about 5 times now and it's stayed off, so we'll see...
In trying that the ABS light then went off again after an ignition cycle (I've tried it loads this week and it's stayed on, very odd) but naturally it came back on again shortly after.
As it was a nice day I tinkered about a bit. There's some rotational play in the steering wheel adapter boss, American Aftermarket tolerances and all that
May just be aluminium splines vs steel splines of the steering shaft too. Anyway, retightening the bolt with the impact gun has sorted that out which was pleasing.
In case the PS pump is related to the light (it does cause a voltage drop when it kicks in) I've now wired it to an unused switch in the centre so I can just manually switch it on once the engine is running.
I also fixed the horn that wasn't working, the ground to the horn body had come free, so sorted that out as well.
Naturally this unrelated tinkering has now 'fixed' the ABS light again so who knows! Have ignition cycled it about 5 times now and it's stayed off, so we'll see...
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