Mercedes-Benz CLK350 Elegance - Bottom of the Barrel
Discussion
J4CKO said:
Nice result, might be worth getting a kit from furniture clinic for the last little bits ?
What does your other half say when you arrive with a new car, then proceed take it to bits ?
Suppose she must be used to it by now ?
Yes, good idea, I might do that. What does your other half say when you arrive with a new car, then proceed take it to bits ?
Suppose she must be used to it by now ?
Ha ha. Her view is that it's better to do something constructive rather than sit in a pub all day - not that I would - well, not every weekend anyway
She works Mon-Sat so I get one day per weekend for my hobbies, which is good, because I'm someone likes a bit of my own space - I'd go mad without it.I've no doubt that this will all change when kids come along.
Thank you both.
Retrofit - Electric Rear Blind
Cost: £80
I decided that it would be a shame to refit the parcel shelf without retrofitting an electric rear blind, which would complete the full complement of switches on the dashboard (I like optioned cars). At the time, the only part I could find was for black interior trim, so I bought with the intention of converting my existing parcel shelf.
It's impossible to completely remove the fabric from the parcel shelf and refit it to the same standard as OEM, because it stretches, so I vut up the black parcel shelf to use as a template to cut the aperture on my 'stone' shelf.
Prior to cutting the aperture, I had put a slit in the fabric of my shelf and carefully peeled it away, leaving sufficient clearance to cut out the fibre board backing. Once finished, I glued the fabric to the rear of the shelf and trimmed off the excess. Electric blind equipped parcel shelves have a propensity to vibrate, so I used Sikaflex to securely bond all of the motor mounting tabs to the parcel shelf, and that has proven to do the trick.
Fin. It isn't perfect, but that isn't what this car is about.
The blind is wired in to the rear SAM with a two pin cable.
Retrofit - Electric Rear Blind
Cost: £80
I decided that it would be a shame to refit the parcel shelf without retrofitting an electric rear blind, which would complete the full complement of switches on the dashboard (I like optioned cars). At the time, the only part I could find was for black interior trim, so I bought with the intention of converting my existing parcel shelf.
It's impossible to completely remove the fabric from the parcel shelf and refit it to the same standard as OEM, because it stretches, so I vut up the black parcel shelf to use as a template to cut the aperture on my 'stone' shelf.
Prior to cutting the aperture, I had put a slit in the fabric of my shelf and carefully peeled it away, leaving sufficient clearance to cut out the fibre board backing. Once finished, I glued the fabric to the rear of the shelf and trimmed off the excess. Electric blind equipped parcel shelves have a propensity to vibrate, so I used Sikaflex to securely bond all of the motor mounting tabs to the parcel shelf, and that has proven to do the trick.
Fin. It isn't perfect, but that isn't what this car is about.
The blind is wired in to the rear SAM with a two pin cable.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 10:51
I’m going to watch this thread closely, as I do with any of your readers car threads. They are so informative and therapeutic to read
I did think removing options was against your thought process, now that I seen the last post with the rear blind I’m glad that things have returned to normal service
I did think removing options was against your thought process, now that I seen the last post with the rear blind I’m glad that things have returned to normal service
Thanks Martin.
Problem 02 - Sticking Boot Release Handle
Cost: £4
The boot is released electronically; by either a button on the drivers door or by pulling a microswitch equipped finger handle on the boot, located between the number plate lights. On this car everything worked only the handle did not return from the 'open' position.
The lower tailgate on the CLK is plastic as this way it's cheaper to produce a tailgate to suit both square and rectangular number plate formats - the steel tailgate remains the same for both type. I found that one of the number plate screws was rusted into its captive fitting but I was successful in drilling it out.
I fixed the handle issue by spraying copious amounts of cutting oil into the mechanism and working the lever back and forth. This lever assembly is specific to Keyless Go cars - the lever is wired as per a standard car and will work only if the car is unlocked, but there is a separate button for keyless entry.
I found a little bit of surface rust hidden behind the number plate trim; some around the lever assembly and spots elsewhere.
I ground away the rust with a Dremel , epoxy primed, and smeared with grease. It isn't pretty but it's a fantastic rust inhibitor.
The securing bolts had rusted so I reassembled with stainless versions.
Problem 02 - Sticking Boot Release Handle
Cost: £4
The boot is released electronically; by either a button on the drivers door or by pulling a microswitch equipped finger handle on the boot, located between the number plate lights. On this car everything worked only the handle did not return from the 'open' position.
The lower tailgate on the CLK is plastic as this way it's cheaper to produce a tailgate to suit both square and rectangular number plate formats - the steel tailgate remains the same for both type. I found that one of the number plate screws was rusted into its captive fitting but I was successful in drilling it out.
I fixed the handle issue by spraying copious amounts of cutting oil into the mechanism and working the lever back and forth. This lever assembly is specific to Keyless Go cars - the lever is wired as per a standard car and will work only if the car is unlocked, but there is a separate button for keyless entry.
I found a little bit of surface rust hidden behind the number plate trim; some around the lever assembly and spots elsewhere.
I ground away the rust with a Dremel , epoxy primed, and smeared with grease. It isn't pretty but it's a fantastic rust inhibitor.
The securing bolts had rusted so I reassembled with stainless versions.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 11:15
Problem 03 - Alarm Siren
Cost: £100.32
The alarm triggered one evening and I couldn't shut it off, and I ended up disconnecting the car battery until the morning. A quick bit of reading online revealed two issues with the alarm module & integrated siren: 1) the unit is lifed due to the internal battery, and 2) water ingress can be a problem on the early units like mine.
I found my local MB dealer was the cheapest source for the revised module A219 820 32 26. 219 is the body code for the first generation CLS, but these sirens are all the same bar configurable coding for things like a beep on lock/unlock etc.
The siren is located at the base of the N/S wheelarch, which is a great place to catch dirt and water! The arch liner and a fore section of body undertray must be removed to gain access.
T35 Security Torx screw secures the security cage. From memory there were three of them. The siren is simply unplugged from its harness and swapped over.
I've retrospectively added a cost to each post.
Cost: £100.32
The alarm triggered one evening and I couldn't shut it off, and I ended up disconnecting the car battery until the morning. A quick bit of reading online revealed two issues with the alarm module & integrated siren: 1) the unit is lifed due to the internal battery, and 2) water ingress can be a problem on the early units like mine.
I found my local MB dealer was the cheapest source for the revised module A219 820 32 26. 219 is the body code for the first generation CLS, but these sirens are all the same bar configurable coding for things like a beep on lock/unlock etc.
The siren is located at the base of the N/S wheelarch, which is a great place to catch dirt and water! The arch liner and a fore section of body undertray must be removed to gain access.
T35 Security Torx screw secures the security cage. From memory there were three of them. The siren is simply unplugged from its harness and swapped over.
I've retrospectively added a cost to each post.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 11:16
Problem 04 - Battery Drain
Cost: £38
I had a phantom battery drain which would completely discharge the battery if left for more than a week. I suspected the rear SAM and so I began investigating in that area. I found evidence of something that had been added (see green rectangle).
The SAM or Signal Acquisition Module is a fuse box - or more accurately a PDU - and CAN module rolled into one. It is coded according to installed options and IIRC it is a one-time coding. The SAM is accessed by removing the N/S boot trim panel.
I traced the current draw to a faulty tracker, which I removed.
This fix was free but the drain had uncovered a failing battery, so I gave my Dad some money for a new spare that he had unused in his garage, and fitted that.
Cost: £38
I had a phantom battery drain which would completely discharge the battery if left for more than a week. I suspected the rear SAM and so I began investigating in that area. I found evidence of something that had been added (see green rectangle).
The SAM or Signal Acquisition Module is a fuse box - or more accurately a PDU - and CAN module rolled into one. It is coded according to installed options and IIRC it is a one-time coding. The SAM is accessed by removing the N/S boot trim panel.
I traced the current draw to a faulty tracker, which I removed.
This fix was free but the drain had uncovered a failing battery, so I gave my Dad some money for a new spare that he had unused in his garage, and fitted that.
5harp3y said:
good god that interior hasn't aged well
I do think that is largely down to the wood. Mine has silver trim panels and leather and doesn't feel aged IMHO.Another meticulous restoration job OP - your attention to detail simply amazes me.
I bought a cheap old CLK cabrio as a daily snotter when my Aston needed a few months worth of work off the road. Rather got under my skin it has.
Shnozz said:
I do think that is largely down to the wood. Mine has silver trim panels and leather and doesn't feel aged IMHO.
Another meticulous restoration job OP - your attention to detail simply amazes me.
I bought a cheap old CLK cabrio as a daily snotter when my Aston needed a few months worth of work off the road. Rather got under my skin it has.
I get that, the Avantgarde Aluminium trim is more sporty, afraid though I'm a wood guy Another meticulous restoration job OP - your attention to detail simply amazes me.
I bought a cheap old CLK cabrio as a daily snotter when my Aston needed a few months worth of work off the road. Rather got under my skin it has.
Thank you!
They have got under mine as well - they look very good and are very relaxing to drive. It's just a pleasant thing use.
J4CKO said:
Always fancied the CLK500 with the later 5.5 M273 engine, bit of a Unicorn though as wasn't around long and have got a bit expensive, well, everything has these days.
Very rare, and, yes, agreed. I've seen them above 10k. I remember when people couldn't give away the V8s...not any more.mwstewart said:
I get that, the Avantgarde Aluminium trim is more sporty, afraid though I'm a wood guy
Thank you!
They have got under mine as well - they look very good and are very relaxing to drive. It's just a pleasant thing use.
Can fully appreciate that. Sort of suits that spec a bit more too, whereas mine has the AMG wheels etc so suits a more sporty interior, perhaps. It's relaxing to drive as you say, wafting along. Mine has the flappy paddles but not sure they really suit the drive of the car, most of the time I leave it in auto comfort mode to be honest. Thank you!
They have got under mine as well - they look very good and are very relaxing to drive. It's just a pleasant thing use.
Have you looked into changing the stereo for a more modern unit by any chance? One of my next jobs and had my eye on this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087WVKCC6/?coliid=IY2...
Shnozz said:
Can fully appreciate that. Sort of suits that spec a bit more too, whereas mine has the AMG wheels etc so suits a more sporty interior, perhaps. It's relaxing to drive as you say, wafting along. Mine has the flappy paddles but not sure they really suit the drive of the car, most of the time I leave it in auto comfort mode to be honest.
Have you looked into changing the stereo for a more modern unit by any chance? One of my next jobs and had my eye on this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087WVKCC6/?coliid=IY2...
I would do - the feature list is impressive - but it isn't straight-forward on my car due to the TV option and Harman/Kardon sound system on the MOST fibre ring. I'd loose those if going for an Android unit. TV isn't a great loss but the HK would be.Have you looked into changing the stereo for a more modern unit by any chance? One of my next jobs and had my eye on this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087WVKCC6/?coliid=IY2...
mwstewart said:
I would do - the feature list is impressive - but it isn't straight-forward on my car due to the TV option and Harman/Kardon sound system on the MOST fibre ring. I'd loose those if going for an Android unit. TV isn't a great loss but the HK would be.
Ah yes, of course. Overlooked the fact better specced cars had HK.mwstewart said:
J4CKO said:
Always fancied the CLK500 with the later 5.5 M273 engine, bit of a Unicorn though as wasn't around long and have got a bit expensive, well, everything has these days.
Very rare, and, yes, agreed. I've seen them above 10k. I remember when people couldn't give away the V8s...not any more.Just no takers, nicest engine I have owned, made the BMW N55 feel low rent in comparison, sublime.
Even sketchy looking ones with Matte black wraps and crap wheels go up for 7/8 grand.
Rangeroverover said:
Amazing as usual..........I imagine the words you dread most from your partner are "great news I don't have to work saturdays anymore". I had just that and had my weekly "me" day taken away from me,
Thank you. Between us: yes J4CKO said:
Yeah, I sold my CLS with that engine to a PHer for 5 grand four years ago, 2008 facelift, 110,000 or so miles, pretty tidy, no major faults (wonky door mirror and a squeak from the suspension)
Just no takers, nicest engine I have owned, made the BMW N55 feel low rent in comparison, sublime.
Even sketchy looking ones with Matte black wraps and crap wheels go up for 7/8 grand.
You've made me really want one now!Just no takers, nicest engine I have owned, made the BMW N55 feel low rent in comparison, sublime.
Even sketchy looking ones with Matte black wraps and crap wheels go up for 7/8 grand.
Problem 04 - Brakes
Cost: £186.87
Front pads: A0044205120 (ECP Brembo 10122086A £50.59)
Front discs: A2034210412 (Febi 43951 £78.16)
Rear pads: A0054201920 (Mintex MDB1991 £19.93)
Rear discs: A2104230612 (Mintex MDC854C £27.75)
Wear sensor 2115401717 (Aftermarket £3.99)
DOT 4 fluid 1 litre (SCT £6.45)
The final issue to resolve was the brakes. The wear light wasn't on when I bought the car but the discs were worn and well down on their braking ability due to the loss of mass. There are many brake system types fitted to the CLK so it is important to order the correct parts: my car has 290mm discs at the rear, and being an Elegance two piston calipers at the front that suit smaller diameter (17") wheels, and 330mm plain discs rather than drilled, for smoother brake application.
When working on the front calipers I found that some of the pads had rusted into their recess and had begun to stick. I removed the scale on the caliper with a hammer and small chisel, and then wire brushed and smeared with grease. I painted both caliper and disc bell with silver Hammerite.
I use a petrol soaked rag to wipe away any excess paint - I find this approach must faster than masking off.
It was the same situation at the rear. The discs were Dacromet coated but I applied Hammerite for extra protection.
Before refitting the wheels I wire brushed and painted the wheel bolts.
Cost: £186.87
Front pads: A0044205120 (ECP Brembo 10122086A £50.59)
Front discs: A2034210412 (Febi 43951 £78.16)
Rear pads: A0054201920 (Mintex MDB1991 £19.93)
Rear discs: A2104230612 (Mintex MDC854C £27.75)
Wear sensor 2115401717 (Aftermarket £3.99)
DOT 4 fluid 1 litre (SCT £6.45)
The final issue to resolve was the brakes. The wear light wasn't on when I bought the car but the discs were worn and well down on their braking ability due to the loss of mass. There are many brake system types fitted to the CLK so it is important to order the correct parts: my car has 290mm discs at the rear, and being an Elegance two piston calipers at the front that suit smaller diameter (17") wheels, and 330mm plain discs rather than drilled, for smoother brake application.
When working on the front calipers I found that some of the pads had rusted into their recess and had begun to stick. I removed the scale on the caliper with a hammer and small chisel, and then wire brushed and smeared with grease. I painted both caliper and disc bell with silver Hammerite.
I use a petrol soaked rag to wipe away any excess paint - I find this approach must faster than masking off.
It was the same situation at the rear. The discs were Dacromet coated but I applied Hammerite for extra protection.
Before refitting the wheels I wire brushed and painted the wheel bolts.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff