Jaguar F-Pace Non Runner
Discussion
Blanco92 said:
Regular servicing helps massively and people who claim their JLR vehicles have been fully serviced by having 5 services in 100k miles are kidding themselves. JLR might say you can do 20k between services... doesn't mean you should.
Yeah, they don't help themselves with these schedules do they? This one has had 5 services in 112k miles, the last one was at 110k. The early ones were stretched a bit longer than they should be, it went 2 years and 25k miles between services at one point. I made a start on getting the engine out on Sunday. It's not too bad to work on, a small engine in a decent size bay. First up I took the DPF off, I noticed something on the subframe
PC171420
It's a free ratchet. A ratchet being left on the subframe is probably a decent indicator for the quality of the last guys work (ignoring the more obvious blown engine). A bit slapdash. There's been plenty of brackets with bolts missing and wiring run the wrong way and not clipped in properly, none of it is critical stuff that would have lead to a failure but it's not good workmanship. I'll have a job on to put it back together nicely having not seen how it should be. On the plus side he copper greased stuff. I'm half expecting he's only fitted one conrod bolt on the one that's knocking.
PC171424
The DPF off. It looks a bit blocked up.
PC171427
I pulled the driveshafts, one CV boot is looking pretty manky. I'm not sure why they didn't sort that the last time it was out, I will be.
IMG_20221219_191909500[1]
I had an unfortunate breakage on the upright, had it all apart, was putting it back together after the driveshaft was removed, put a screwdriver in by hand to open it up and it just cracked off. I'm thinking maybe it was cracked previously with a really powerful impact gun.
IMG_20221219_191830275[1]
PC171420It's a free ratchet. A ratchet being left on the subframe is probably a decent indicator for the quality of the last guys work (ignoring the more obvious blown engine). A bit slapdash. There's been plenty of brackets with bolts missing and wiring run the wrong way and not clipped in properly, none of it is critical stuff that would have lead to a failure but it's not good workmanship. I'll have a job on to put it back together nicely having not seen how it should be. On the plus side he copper greased stuff. I'm half expecting he's only fitted one conrod bolt on the one that's knocking.
PC171424The DPF off. It looks a bit blocked up.
PC171427I pulled the driveshafts, one CV boot is looking pretty manky. I'm not sure why they didn't sort that the last time it was out, I will be.
IMG_20221219_191909500[1]I had an unfortunate breakage on the upright, had it all apart, was putting it back together after the driveshaft was removed, put a screwdriver in by hand to open it up and it just cracked off. I'm thinking maybe it was cracked previously with a really powerful impact gun.
IMG_20221219_191830275[1]I think I'd be tempted to get along to Copart, find an identical spec car with FSH and no problems that's be arse-ended and written off, pull the engine from that.
This way you start with a known-good engine that you can perform a degree of rebuild on (new chains, tensioners, bearings etc), and install that. An engine that hasn't already had major issues is probably a better starting point.
My background involves, amongst other things, engines that run 2000 to 2400 tach hours between rebuilds. Rebuilds involve assorted tests looking for cracks and weaknesses, and it's amazing what gets found. From this experience, I tend to run away from engines that have already had significant mechanical failures, as it's not always obvious to what extent other components in the engine, that weren't part of the 'main' failure, have been damaged.
This way you start with a known-good engine that you can perform a degree of rebuild on (new chains, tensioners, bearings etc), and install that. An engine that hasn't already had major issues is probably a better starting point.
My background involves, amongst other things, engines that run 2000 to 2400 tach hours between rebuilds. Rebuilds involve assorted tests looking for cracks and weaknesses, and it's amazing what gets found. From this experience, I tend to run away from engines that have already had significant mechanical failures, as it's not always obvious to what extent other components in the engine, that weren't part of the 'main' failure, have been damaged.
Just wondering why you are going to remove the engine rather than remove the sump and get at con rods, crank and bearings from there? Is it just to tidy up or check previous work, or are you expecting something wrong with the liners that have been fitted?
If this was in my garage I'd have the sump off 5mins after it arrived and check all the crank shells to see was it a slip, blocked oilway or what before taking the engine out. As it started cold I'd think slipped crank bearing was very likely.
If this was in my garage I'd have the sump off 5mins after it arrived and check all the crank shells to see was it a slip, blocked oilway or what before taking the engine out. As it started cold I'd think slipped crank bearing was very likely.
king insane - not just for getting this timebomb/clusterfConnectionError said:
blue_haddock said:
I was doing some training for technicians in a Landrover dealer earlier this year.
8 out of 9 bays in the workshop were for vehicles having engine swaps under warranty.
Your a very brave man.
I do find that very difficult to believe 8 out of 9 bays in the workshop were for vehicles having engine swaps under warranty.
Your a very brave man.
Within 48 hours of having it Land Rover had it ready for collection with a new engine in it - this would indicate they are well prepared for such instances.
PS: Good luck Ecsy!
Magnum 475 said:
I think I'd be tempted to get along to Copart, find an identical spec car with FSH and no problems that's be arse-ended and written off, pull the engine from that.
This way you start with a known-good engine that you can perform a degree of rebuild on (new chains, tensioners, bearings etc), and install that. An engine that hasn't already had major issues is probably a better starting point.
My background involves, amongst other things, engines that run 2000 to 2400 tach hours between rebuilds. Rebuilds involve assorted tests looking for cracks and weaknesses, and it's amazing what gets found. From this experience, I tend to run away from engines that have already had significant mechanical failures, as it's not always obvious to what extent other components in the engine, that weren't part of the 'main' failure, have been damaged.
You're right, if it was a cheaper engine that's had 2 major failures there's no way I'd be messing around with it. The economics of it means I need to fix this engine and take my chances on long term reliability, it's not a feasible project any other way. This way you start with a known-good engine that you can perform a degree of rebuild on (new chains, tensioners, bearings etc), and install that. An engine that hasn't already had major issues is probably a better starting point.
My background involves, amongst other things, engines that run 2000 to 2400 tach hours between rebuilds. Rebuilds involve assorted tests looking for cracks and weaknesses, and it's amazing what gets found. From this experience, I tend to run away from engines that have already had significant mechanical failures, as it's not always obvious to what extent other components in the engine, that weren't part of the 'main' failure, have been damaged.
Decky_Q said:
Just wondering why you are going to remove the engine rather than remove the sump and get at con rods, crank and bearings from there? Is it just to tidy up or check previous work, or are you expecting something wrong with the liners that have been fitted?
If this was in my garage I'd have the sump off 5mins after it arrived and check all the crank shells to see was it a slip, blocked oilway or what before taking the engine out. As it started cold I'd think slipped crank bearing was very likely.
It's not an easy car to pull the sump off, it's got a diff bolted to the side of it and a driveshaft running through the middle of it. The way my garage is set up, it's easier to leave the subframe on and pull engines from the top, I then roll the car backwards out of the way. If this was in my garage I'd have the sump off 5mins after it arrived and check all the crank shells to see was it a slip, blocked oilway or what before taking the engine out. As it started cold I'd think slipped crank bearing was very likely.
Plus I know I'm going to need to have a good look over everything that's been done previously so figure get it out and go from there.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff