Knackered old Porsche with loads of natural light - Boxster!
Discussion
PPBB, have you thought about your next project to keep us entertained yet? 
Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
Steve_W said:
PPBB, have you thought about your next project to keep us entertained yet?
Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
You need to search ‘knackered old Porsche with loads of ground clearance’ Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
eltax91 said:
Steve_W said:
PPBB, have you thought about your next project to keep us entertained yet?
Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
You need to search ‘knackered old Porsche with loads of ground clearance’ Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
957 with sprung suspension, lift kit, 18" Braid bead locks, KO2's, Steel sump, gearbox and diff guards. Mostly used as a daily in winter and a tow car outside of that.
poppopbangbang said:
Absolutely, they wouldn't have my business if they weren't willing to agree both the value I want it covering for and the specification of it. They insure a lot of things for me (including the 996) and I've been very pleased with them over the years, generally the process starts with me sending them a detailed spec of the car along with what I want it covering for (both value, use case etc.), we'll then have a bit of a chat and look over some of the related invoices etc. as proof of value and I'll take some detailed photos of "the asset" as proof of condition at the point it goes on cover. With the Booster I gave them a spec at the start of the project and we'd agreed what the cover looked like whilst the car still had the original engine in it.
Both the 996 and the 986 are insured for business use, have European cover and whilst on mileage based policies the mileage isn't exactly restrictive, just as important to me they're insured for what I feel they are worth should the worst happen. It's also extremely useful having an e-mail address and a phone number that goes to a person as if I decide to do something weird and wonderful.... or just some filming, it's easy to get them on cover for that sort of activity.
In my experience it's possible to insure absolutely anything, but when the vast majority of insurers deal with a fixed spec product (i.e. a standard car) it's not surprising that the struggle or don't want to cover something very none standard that has a higher value than an equivalent age standard car. There are numerous brokers and speciality insurers that cater for this sort of thing (along with boats, air craft and a range of other crazy stuff) so if you want to do a crazy project don't let the thoughts on insurance stop you, just don't go looking for it on Confused or similar
That’s good to know. I live in south London and have previously struggled with changes to my TVRs when I had them and the same or more extreme mods were fine for those who lived outside the M25. In one case when I wanted to fit a roll over bar, the same broker/insurer said no to me and yes to a mate with a similar car. I even tried referencing their details and it was a no bid. Both the 996 and the 986 are insured for business use, have European cover and whilst on mileage based policies the mileage isn't exactly restrictive, just as important to me they're insured for what I feel they are worth should the worst happen. It's also extremely useful having an e-mail address and a phone number that goes to a person as if I decide to do something weird and wonderful.... or just some filming, it's easy to get them on cover for that sort of activity.
In my experience it's possible to insure absolutely anything, but when the vast majority of insurers deal with a fixed spec product (i.e. a standard car) it's not surprising that the struggle or don't want to cover something very none standard that has a higher value than an equivalent age standard car. There are numerous brokers and speciality insurers that cater for this sort of thing (along with boats, air craft and a range of other crazy stuff) so if you want to do a crazy project don't let the thoughts on insurance stop you, just don't go looking for it on Confused or similar
It will be ability, not insurance that limits my projects
TV8 said:
That’s good to know. I live in south London and have previously struggled with changes to my TVRs when I had them and the same or more extreme mods were fine for those who lived outside the M25. In one case when I wanted to fit a roll over bar, the same broker/insurer said no to me and yes to a mate with a similar car. I even tried referencing their details and it was a no bid.
It will be ability, not insurance that limits my projects
If it's useful I'm more than happy to PM you my insurers details should you wish to try that roll bar.... or anything else again It will be ability, not insurance that limits my projects
poppopbangbang said:
Do you know what the head pressure of the system is? If it's quite free flowing you may find a CWA-100 gives more flow, the 150 is designed for high head pressure applications but at lower head pressure the 100 flows quite a bit more than the 150.
I think you are running an original Porsche centre rad as the charge cooler rad? Even at zero vehicle speed you're likely radiating more than it's absorbing as it's not sandwiched with other exchangers, plus there's the engine bay heat soak into the charge coolers at zero vehicle speed - very often it's worth running the pump to avoid this.
Of course none of this stops it working absolutely fine, I'll be chuffed if my setup performs like yours!
I don't know the head pressure. I'd have gone for the 100.3 but I found a brand new 150 at half the price so did my usual and went with the cheaper option. I think you are running an original Porsche centre rad as the charge cooler rad? Even at zero vehicle speed you're likely radiating more than it's absorbing as it's not sandwiched with other exchangers, plus there's the engine bay heat soak into the charge coolers at zero vehicle speed - very often it's worth running the pump to avoid this.
Of course none of this stops it working absolutely fine, I'll be chuffed if my setup performs like yours!
I'm running an aftermarket radiator it's much thicker than the original Porsche one. Doesn't mean it's any better though. Temps coming into the charge coolers always look decent
poppopbangbang said:
eltax91 said:
Steve_W said:
PPBB, have you thought about your next project to keep us entertained yet?
Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
You need to search ‘knackered old Porsche with loads of ground clearance’ Might I suggest the other end of the Porsche spectrum - a Cayenne, perhaps as a full on Paris-Dakar kind of thing?
I found the ideal candidate at £2500: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202402066...
957 with sprung suspension, lift kit, 18" Braid bead locks, KO2's, Steel sump, gearbox and diff guards. Mostly used as a daily in winter and a tow car outside of that.
170+ Miles clocked up today:
First long run I've done and it was really interesting to spend a decent amount of time in the car, not just because of a very interesting piece on Radio 4 regarding semi-permanent adhesives and their potential in the technology industry. It really does drive like a standard road car, it's as quite and refined as the original car off boost and its manners are pretty impecable all round.
There is some work to do on tip in calibration, long off throttles result in it being a bit sluggish picking the throttle back up (long DCFO's are always a bit tricky) and of course charge temps on sustained boost are very sub-optimal due to the low flow through the charge cooler at the moment. There's also the odd vibration from the intetior but it's 25 years old so I can't really whinge about that
We're about at the mileage now where some decent oil can go in and the running in limiter can come off. It also needs a good spanner check to make sure all the new bits are staying in formation.
I am very, very pleased with how this has come together
First long run I've done and it was really interesting to spend a decent amount of time in the car, not just because of a very interesting piece on Radio 4 regarding semi-permanent adhesives and their potential in the technology industry. It really does drive like a standard road car, it's as quite and refined as the original car off boost and its manners are pretty impecable all round.
There is some work to do on tip in calibration, long off throttles result in it being a bit sluggish picking the throttle back up (long DCFO's are always a bit tricky) and of course charge temps on sustained boost are very sub-optimal due to the low flow through the charge cooler at the moment. There's also the odd vibration from the intetior but it's 25 years old so I can't really whinge about that
We're about at the mileage now where some decent oil can go in and the running in limiter can come off. It also needs a good spanner check to make sure all the new bits are staying in formation.
I am very, very pleased with how this has come together
Did a bit more running around in it today and then dropped the oil etc. for the good stuff. I'm running the same Millers CFS NT+ that I run in the 996 albeit in 10w/50 form. The expectation being that this will see some pretty high oil temperatures as it's 1) Turbo'd with a sodding great Garrett and 2) only has an oil/water heat exchanger as oil cooling hence the slightly thicker grade.
I also appear to have a small coolant weep from somewhere up the back of the engine. Of course the law of sod dictates that this will be in the least accessable place so I'll have to pull some loom etc. off tomorrow and see exactly what is going on there - very likely a hose clip has relaxed a bit now it's all had a few heat cycles.
Other than that 500 mile in and everything is still where I left it, the hose/cable runs I decided on appear to be working well with no witnessing on anything, I think the mid pipe and ARB may get a little friendly when everything is hot and in a hard right hander but having said that nothing has anything witnessing on it yet.... if that does become a problem it's only a squidge in the press to resolve type of problem.
Once I've located where the coolant is falling out of I'll raise the rev limiter to something sensible and do a bit of basic VE tuning to get the bits I can do on the road done prior to dyno time.
I also appear to have a small coolant weep from somewhere up the back of the engine. Of course the law of sod dictates that this will be in the least accessable place so I'll have to pull some loom etc. off tomorrow and see exactly what is going on there - very likely a hose clip has relaxed a bit now it's all had a few heat cycles.
Other than that 500 mile in and everything is still where I left it, the hose/cable runs I decided on appear to be working well with no witnessing on anything, I think the mid pipe and ARB may get a little friendly when everything is hot and in a hard right hander but having said that nothing has anything witnessing on it yet.... if that does become a problem it's only a squidge in the press to resolve type of problem.
Once I've located where the coolant is falling out of I'll raise the rev limiter to something sensible and do a bit of basic VE tuning to get the bits I can do on the road done prior to dyno time.
poppopbangbang said:
Millers CFS NT+ that I run in the 996 albeit in 10w/50 form
Sorry for the slight tangent - but I put this in my 996 C2 and now thats moved on I'll be putting it in my 987.1 Cayman S and almost certainly my MK5 Golf GTI. All of the owners forums, engine builders and tuners seem to rave about it. I was certainly very impressed in my 996.
Is there something particularly magical about it?
conanius said:
Sorry for the slight tangent - but I put this in my 996 C2 and now thats moved on I'll be putting it in my 987.1 Cayman S and almost certainly my MK5 Golf GTI.
All of the owners forums, engine builders and tuners seem to rave about it. I was certainly very impressed in my 996.
Is there something particularly magical about it?
It's just a really good quality oil, the additive pack is pretty trick but then any decent oil manufacturer will have their own IP (and marketing) there. Plus it's super available vs some of the specialist stuff, to the point now that you can order it next day delivery off the Halfords website. All of the owners forums, engine builders and tuners seem to rave about it. I was certainly very impressed in my 996.
Is there something particularly magical about it?
For anything above this or if you're trying to solve a specific lubricity problem you'd likely be going to someone like Pakelo in Italy (www.pakelo.com) to work with their lab on a special brew or if you're a big OEM one of the really large oil suppliers (as you need to accomodate volume requirement).
For 99.999% of stuff that's road car derived, a bit tuned and might do the odd track day the Millers competition stuff is all you will ever need.
A few boosty noises from today:
With running in about complete it's now on the decent oil, 2/3 throttle and a sniff more boost. It's had a good run at that so I'll turn it up to a bar of 100% throttle now to do a bit of tuning of the VE sites I can sensibly get to pootling about on the road prior to getting it on the dyno.
Plan now is to get another 500 miles on it by the start of May so everything is decently bedded and known before we load it onto the chassis dyno and see what powers it makes. Great excuse to use it as the run around for a bit
With running in about complete it's now on the decent oil, 2/3 throttle and a sniff more boost. It's had a good run at that so I'll turn it up to a bar of 100% throttle now to do a bit of tuning of the VE sites I can sensibly get to pootling about on the road prior to getting it on the dyno.
Plan now is to get another 500 miles on it by the start of May so everything is decently bedded and known before we load it onto the chassis dyno and see what powers it makes. Great excuse to use it as the run around for a bit
It likes a bar of boost!
It also squats to rediculous levels on the standard 100K mile old suspension
I'm really starting to see how much fun this is going to be now, there's a lot of Group B / Noble M12 in the soundtrack and the performance is right there with much more modern stuff.
It also squats to rediculous levels on the standard 100K mile old suspension
I'm really starting to see how much fun this is going to be now, there's a lot of Group B / Noble M12 in the soundtrack and the performance is right there with much more modern stuff.
Interested to know where PPBB and Escy are taking the IATs from? I run a turbo car ( not a Boxster, Evo 8 modified with an Evo 9 VVT head and turbo, ecu, etc ) at 410 / 400 at 1.9 bar on high boost and measure IATs before and after the throttle body, the before using a K-type thermocouple that just hangs in the airstream where the inlet hose joins the TB, and a Lascar digital readout, the after just using the standard map sensor on the inlet manifold read through a Scangauge. I've never really been comfortable giving the car all it's got when the temps are even only in the high 30s, ( done what I can to assist it, 3" thick ETS intercooler ) so it's interesting to read how much higher yours are and that you're both ok with that. But I guess depending on where you take the readings from may show different results to mine.
There's often quite a discrepancy in the readings between the two on mine, it doesn't take long for the readings on the manifold to become noticeably higher on a closed throttle when it's obviously shut off from incoming air. I wonder how affected by heatsoak the manifold sensor becomes and how it affects the accuracy.
There's often quite a discrepancy in the readings between the two on mine, it doesn't take long for the readings on the manifold to become noticeably higher on a closed throttle when it's obviously shut off from incoming air. I wonder how affected by heatsoak the manifold sensor becomes and how it affects the accuracy.
Edited by Heaveho on Sunday 21st April 23:06
My inlet manifold has the IAT sensor just after the throttle body from the factory. I was advised to move it to before the throttle body for a more accurate reading as the air speed is higher there so that's what I've done. I pay no attention to the temperature at anything other than at WOT, everything heat soaks in our engine bay. As soon as I get on the throttle the temperature drops straight back down.
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