Discussion
Shifter1 said:
TheJimi said:
Shifter1 said:
But if you buy it as a "B-road attacking machine", then the hardtop is indispensable IMO. Last thing I want is to drive a convertible fast around B-roads. Several negatives there. I'm talking really hard drive though.
If you're genuinely driving the car hard enough on the public road for a hardtop to make a real tangible difference in terms of dynamics, then I really don't want to be sharing the road with you.
Of course, that depends on what type of driver the person is. Some claim they can't even tell when a car is RWD or FWD.But the difference is there and is tangible, specially if the car is stock. With extra bracing, as already mentioned, the hardtop starts making less and less difference, dynamically. But it is still a benefit dynamically. Plus aerodynamically, noise, safety etc.
Secondly, spirited driving doesn't need to be dangerous. Unless the driver doesn't know what he is doing. As I already mentioned, you never need to leave legal speeds to have fun with the MR2.
Third, basically nobody is sharing the road, when you get up 5:00 to go for a spirited drive on a Sunday morning.
Shifter1 said:
But if you buy it as a "B-road attacking machine", then the hardtop is indispensable IMO. Last thing I want is to drive a convertible fast around B-roads. Several negatives there. I'm talking really hard drive though.
Perhaps I could have worded my post better, in that, yes, I know the hard top makes a tangible difference even at fairly sedate pace.Ultimately, the point I should have made was that I disagree that a hard top is indispensable as you put it. As I say, I know there's tangible benefits, but to the point that a hard top becomes indispensable? Nope, I don't agree with that at all, and in order for that to become the case, I think you'd need to be pushing the envelope far beyond what is both legal and sensible on the public road.
As for your point about not needing to go beyond legal speeds to have fun in the MR2, well, that's actually part of my argument against your assertion that a hard top is indispensable because even in a completely standard MR2 with no hard top, you can cover a section of road up to the legal limits with little fuss.
I think we can agree to disagree on this
Edited by TheJimi on Thursday 13th July 14:04
TheJimi said:
Shifter1 said:
TheJimi said:
Shifter1 said:
But if you buy it as a "B-road attacking machine", then the hardtop is indispensable IMO. Last thing I want is to drive a convertible fast around B-roads. Several negatives there. I'm talking really hard drive though.
If you're genuinely driving the car hard enough on the public road for a hardtop to make a real tangible difference in terms of dynamics, then I really don't want to be sharing the road with you. Of course, that depends on what type of driver the person is. Some claim they can't even tell when a car is RWD or FWD.But the difference is there and is tangible, specially if the car is stock. With extra bracing, as already mentioned, the hardtop starts making less and less difference, dynamically. But it is still a benefit dynamically. Plus aerodynamically, noise, safety etc.
Secondly, spirited driving doesn't need to be dangerous. Unless the driver doesn't know what he is doing. As I already mentioned, you never need to leave legal speeds to have fun with the MR2.
Third, basically nobody is sharing the road, when you get up 5:00 to go for a spirited drive on a Sunday morning.
Shifter1 said:
But if you buy it as a "B-road attacking machine", then the hardtop is indispensable IMO. Last thing I want is to drive a convertible fast around B-roads. Several negatives there. I'm talking really hard drive though.
Perhaps I could have worded my post better, in that, yes, I know the hard top makes a tangible difference in even at fairly sedate pace.Ultimately, the point I should have made was that I disagree that a hard top is indispensable as you put it. As I say, I know there's tangible benefits, but to the point that a hard top becomes indispensable? Nope, I don't agree with that at all, and in order for that to become the case, I think you'd need to be pushing the envelope far beyond what is both legal and sensible on the public road.
As for your point about not needing to go beyond legal speeds to have fun in the MR2, well, that's actually part of my argument against your assertion that a hard top is indispensable because even in a completely standard MR2 with no hard top, you can cover a section of road up to the legal limits with little fuss.
I think we can agree to disagree on this
But I said to me, at this point, a hardtop is indispensable. After having tried one, I personally wouldn't want to buy a MR2 roadster without one.
Shifter1 said:
If the engine runs strong, oil burn alone is not a solid reason to replace the engine IMO. They all do it at some level. Plus there are things you can do and still run it for thousands more miles. Unless you want a swap of course.
Yes it has a fairly old looking 4-2 manifold on so has been de pre-catted for a while I guess. I thought coming from a Honda I'd be content with some oil consumption, but 3.5L in 600miles, hmmmm... okay it has been more biased towards b roads and messing around but still. Have a 65k mile late engine to go in, 4th gear crunch needs sorted and it's a non-LSD import so can sort that whilst I'm there with a diff. All escalates quickly.Shifter1 said:
Well, please do tell the lightweight rear mid engine coupe, that perform and handles as well, for that budget level.
Your car is braced though, right?
Just wind noise and less scuttle shake with the hardtop on is already enough benefit for me. Even if there were not all the other benefits.
Ok fair point on the coupe for the money Your car is braced though, right?
Just wind noise and less scuttle shake with the hardtop on is already enough benefit for me. Even if there were not all the other benefits.
I didn't think that comment through to be fair.My Spyder had the belly brace but nothing much else. It did help so I guess I'm willing to believe the hard top would make a difference, but for me I'm a staunch top down driver so I'd choose braces over the hard top but that's just me maybe
The mx5 only has whatever bracing was out of the factory but in all honesty I guess it does feel "solid" out of the box which means it probably won't have made a noticeable difference.
Ok you win this round
but I'm still with TheJimi, I don't think it's essential but it's definitely worth stiffening.Shifter1 said:
k20ris said:
Found out mine likes a drink of oil after finally figuring out how to read that dipstick accurately, it does have 100k+ on it to be fair but still runs really well. Sorting out an engine replacement next along with some of the other common ones.
If the engine runs strong, oil burn alone is not a solid reason to replace the engine IMO. They all do it at some level. Plus there are things you can do and still run it for thousands more miles. Unless you want a swap of course.My MX5 also burns oil, and most people are telling me I need an engine rebuild, but the thing is, it's a 140k engine running 60 bhp over stock and a 500 rpm higher redline, and the thing is just so smooth and doesn't feel down on power. Am I unreasonable to think that an 18 year old highly tuned engine is obviously going to burn some oil? I don't mind paying for the work if it's needed but...
Anyway yes I'd say don't worry about it, just keep it topped and if it dies then stick a K20 in it.
No way would I put a VAG 20vT in one of these. These cars are super light, lend themselves more to N/A engines IMO (even though they did offer a TTE Turbo on these), and it would detract from the sharpness of it while also overwhelming it with low down torque. Bland sounding as well. It's a no from me. If the K20 is too much, go 2ZZ I reckon (assuming you want that sort of engine in a road car, plenty are happy with the 1ZZ).
TameRacingDriver said:
No way would I put a VAG 20vT in one of these. These cars are super light, lend themselves more to N/A engines IMO (even though they did offer a TTE Turbo on these), and it would detract from the sharpness of it while also overwhelming it with low down torque. Bland sounding as well. It's a no from me. If the K20 is too much, go 2ZZ I reckon (assuming you want that sort of engine in a road car, plenty are happy with the 1ZZ).
The car lends itself more to a mechanical supercharger setup. 2zz or 1zz and a mechanical supercharger would be great, 200 - 250 bhp with associated torque increase and keeping the top end, would be lots of fun.QuantumTokoloshi said:
Evil.soup said:
These are fantastic cars and one of the few cars I miss owning. I also had a pre-facelift model back in 2004, it was fantastic and felt like a go cart.
One thing I will say, ensure you have good matched rubber all round as I had to replace a single alloy and a friend loaned me a spare he had with a different tyre to the others I had. The thing became quite dicey in the wet and scary at times. It can be lively, although very controllable, but with miss matched tyres it can be twitchy and even dangerous.
As for the badge, someone at some point has just stuck the JDM badge on there for some reason and in the wrong place. Personally, I don't think it looks right, one or the other will be fine but I think one should go. That is just my opinion of course and if you like it, ignore my thoughts on it.
All in, that does look like a well looked after car that someone has spent money on, the side vents are not standard as silver, they would normally be a grey plastic, so money has been spent there as well.
It really does feel like a go-kart, the steering is so direct, and the ability to change direction is brilliant, light weight and mid engine for the win.One thing I will say, ensure you have good matched rubber all round as I had to replace a single alloy and a friend loaned me a spare he had with a different tyre to the others I had. The thing became quite dicey in the wet and scary at times. It can be lively, although very controllable, but with miss matched tyres it can be twitchy and even dangerous.
As for the badge, someone at some point has just stuck the JDM badge on there for some reason and in the wrong place. Personally, I don't think it looks right, one or the other will be fine but I think one should go. That is just my opinion of course and if you like it, ignore my thoughts on it.
All in, that does look like a well looked after car that someone has spent money on, the side vents are not standard as silver, they would normally be a grey plastic, so money has been spent there as well.
The sensation feels odd at first, little inertia just turn in and it goes. I can imagine with dodgy rubber, considering the lagless way it can change direction, unintended direction changes would be lightning quick, give a new meaning to snap oversteer.
The 1zz gets a undeserved bad rep, it has decent low end power, with a proper top end VVT hardening of note rev to the red line. Fits the car's character well.
Edited by QuantumTokoloshi on Wednesday 12th July 12:06
I did have a few dicey moments in mine with unexpected snap oversteer, it tended to happen when you were not paying attention. On 2 occasions I ended up facing the wrong way in the road, once in central London pulling out of a petrol station trying to grab a quick gap in traffic, quite embarrassing, second time I was simply day dreaming following an old Renault 19 over one of the local mountains, not pushing hard. I went through a dip into a corner that had just a little standing water in it, next thing I know I did a full 360, hit a curb and went off the road, a little scary that was.
If I was pushing and concentrating I could have caught it, but since I was day dreaming there was no chance in hell I could have caught it.
Still loved the thing though!
QuantumTokoloshi said:
TameRacingDriver said:
No way would I put a VAG 20vT in one of these. These cars are super light, lend themselves more to N/A engines IMO (even though they did offer a TTE Turbo on these), and it would detract from the sharpness of it while also overwhelming it with low down torque. Bland sounding as well. It's a no from me. If the K20 is too much, go 2ZZ I reckon (assuming you want that sort of engine in a road car, plenty are happy with the 1ZZ).
The car lends itself more to a mechanical supercharger setup. 2zz or 1zz and a mechanical supercharger would be great, 200 - 250 bhp with associated torque increase and keeping the top end, would be lots of fun.Either way though, I don't feel the car needs any more power, it was great as it was when I owned it. I did test drive one a couple of years ago but didn't go far or push it, I can't remember thinking I needed more power and I have owned a modified WRX for the past 17 years, so I am used to big grunt.
If I had somewhere to store one on a trickle charger, I would get another one just for the fun of the things, plus, they should hold value well.
Shifter1 said:
But if you buy it as a "B-road attacking machine", then the hardtop is indispensable IMO. Last thing I want is to drive a convertible fast around B-roads. Several negatives there. I'm talking really hard drive though.
Enjoying the open weather is for cruising. I don't even notice the weather why I'm driving it like a bat outta hell.
I swear, people on PH have the weirdest, niche opinions.Enjoying the open weather is for cruising. I don't even notice the weather why I'm driving it like a bat outta hell.
Who on earth talks about "driving it like a bat outta hell" or refers to cars as "a B-road attacking machine" in the real world?
Anyone driving hard or fast enough on B-roads to notice the difference of having a hardtop fitted is either nonexistent or quite dangerous. I'm going with the former.
Maintenance work done. All fluids, oils and filters changed. Coolant is a pain, v-belt looks new.
Aircon is now cold and no leaks, condenser will probably need a replacement in a few years time, but coolant radiator is in decent condition. New sparkplugs and finally the removal of the detached mouse family home in the airbox! Thankfully, did not chew any wires, pipes etc. The downside of rural cars, mice can do serious damage, have had to rewire a previous car when a hungry rodent family decided to munch down on the wiring harness.
Aircon is now cold and no leaks, condenser will probably need a replacement in a few years time, but coolant radiator is in decent condition. New sparkplugs and finally the removal of the detached mouse family home in the airbox! Thankfully, did not chew any wires, pipes etc. The downside of rural cars, mice can do serious damage, have had to rewire a previous car when a hungry rodent family decided to munch down on the wiring harness.
TameRacingDriver said:
Shifter1 said:
Well, please do tell the lightweight rear mid engine coupe, that perform and handles as well, for that budget level.
Your car is braced though, right?
Just wind noise and less scuttle shake with the hardtop on is already enough benefit for me. Even if there were not all the other benefits.
Ok fair point on the coupe for the money Your car is braced though, right?
Just wind noise and less scuttle shake with the hardtop on is already enough benefit for me. Even if there were not all the other benefits.
I didn't think that comment through to be fair.My Spyder had the belly brace but nothing much else. It did help so I guess I'm willing to believe the hard top would make a difference, but for me I'm a staunch top down driver so I'd choose braces over the hard top but that's just me maybe
The mx5 only has whatever bracing was out of the factory but in all honesty I guess it does feel "solid" out of the box which means it probably won't have made a noticeable difference.
Ok you win this round
but I'm still with TheJimi, I don't think it's essential but it's definitely worth stiffening.Shifter1 said:
k20ris said:
Found out mine likes a drink of oil after finally figuring out how to read that dipstick accurately, it does have 100k+ on it to be fair but still runs really well. Sorting out an engine replacement next along with some of the other common ones.
If the engine runs strong, oil burn alone is not a solid reason to replace the engine IMO. They all do it at some level. Plus there are things you can do and still run it for thousands more miles. Unless you want a swap of course.My MX5 also burns oil, and most people are telling me I need an engine rebuild, but the thing is, it's a 140k engine running 60 bhp over stock and a 500 rpm higher redline, and the thing is just so smooth and doesn't feel down on power. Am I unreasonable to think that an 18 year old highly tuned engine is obviously going to burn some oil? I don't mind paying for the work if it's needed but...
Anyway yes I'd say don't worry about it, just keep it topped and if it dies then stick a K20 in it.
TameRacingDriver said:
No way would I put a VAG 20vT in one of these. These cars are super light, lend themselves more to N/A engines IMO (even though they did offer a TTE Turbo on these), and it would detract from the sharpness of it while also overwhelming it with low down torque. Bland sounding as well. It's a no from me. If the K20 is too much, go 2ZZ I reckon (assuming you want that sort of engine in a road car, plenty are happy with the 1ZZ).
I totally agree. I actually think I wouldn't put any VAG lump in one of these at all. Let alone a turbo. I'm with the crowd saying the car doesn't really NEED more power. 1ZZ is fine for what the car was designed for really, IMO. Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff