Project Ring-shed E36 325i

Project Ring-shed E36 325i

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sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
V8mate said:
Thanks. I bought the car rather spontaneously so didn't stop to think about issues like the sunroof.

I'll start my own 'build thread' soon too; stop impinging on yours smile
Once you remove the inner skin from the sunroof, and all the mechanism they don't weigh a lot, just a day's work sorting it out. And then you have to paint over where you've burnt the roof paint with the welder. I'm trying to get some fibreglass panels made that will just bond in, as there's nothing on the market for sensible money.

One tip I would give, especially if you ever intend to use the car on the road, is to keep the glass windows and heater. Yes you'll add 20kgs but the comfort levels on hot or cold days are worth it.

Look forward to seeing the pics.

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
V8mate said:
DT are quoting £900+VAT for an E36 cage frown
Crikey that's gone up a lot in 2 years then - have you tried ringing them to "see what they can do" with the price?

V8mate

45,899 posts

190 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
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Has your experience or associated homework brought up a recommended suspension manufacturer/combination?

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
V8mate said:
Has your experience or associated homework brought up a recommended suspension manufacturer/combination?
I'm happy with the Gaz Gold I've got, especially at the price (they were about £400 brand new) they have a good range of damping adjustment to make the best out of whether the track is dry or wet or whatever.

I've got Intrax RS coilovers on my 328i sport. Now these would have been more money new (I bought them used) and they have no damping adjustment, just height.

I'm afraid that's the limit of my experience of driving them, but I have passengered in cars on circa £2k's worth of PSS9 and KW kits and they definately seem to corner quicker. Whether or not that just down to them being better drivers than me I don't know.

Personally I'd avoid the cheap sub £200 Ebay kits, as these tend to be poorly matched, and not very adjustable, and don't seem to last. But equally I wouldn't get carried away spending thousands. There's often decent second hand kits available if the budget is an issue for now. Check out the classifieds on here, E36coupe.com, and Ebay.

ManOpener

12,467 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
V8mate said:
Has your experience or associated homework brought up a recommended suspension manufacturer/combination?
A guy I had a passenger lap with at the 'ring a year or so back raved about the quality of the KW Clubsport coilovers. He was running some beefy anti-roll bars too, can't remember what make, and that thing cornered like there was no tomorrow. KW stuff isn't cheap, clubsports are about £2k a set!

V8mate

45,899 posts

190 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
sniff diesel said:
V8mate said:
Has your experience or associated homework brought up a recommended suspension manufacturer/combination?
I'm happy with the Gaz Gold I've got, especially at the price (they were about £400 brand new)
Did you buy all your parts in 1956? hehe

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m14b0s...

joe_90

4,206 posts

232 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
sniff diesel said:
V8mate said:
Thanks. I bought the car rather spontaneously so didn't stop to think about issues like the sunroof.

I'll start my own 'build thread' soon too; stop impinging on yours smile
Once you remove the inner skin from the sunroof, and all the mechanism they don't weigh a lot, just a day's work sorting it out. And then you have to paint over where you've burnt the roof paint with the welder. I'm trying to get some fibreglass panels made that will just bond in, as there's nothing on the market for sensible money.

One tip I would give, especially if you ever intend to use the car on the road, is to keep the glass windows and heater. Yes you'll add 20kgs but the comfort levels on hot or cold days are worth it.

Look forward to seeing the pics.
I actually went and spoke to a plastics manufacture. They would vacuum form my sunroof with 4mm plastic for about £100 (three moulds) I figured this would fit in a treat and could be safely attached and then seleant used on the gaps.. Then sell the other 2 off to cover teh costs.. However I then got some free metal and pop-riveted it in.

V8mate said:
sniff diesel said:
V8mate said:
Has your experience or associated homework brought up a recommended suspension manufacturer/combination?
I'm happy with the Gaz Gold I've got, especially at the price (they were about £400 brand new)
Did you buy all your parts in 1956? hehe

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m14b0s...
yes.. they went up a fair bit recently.. I though sniff got his from a mate new, rather than buying new for that price smile

Also give james a call at redish (tell him Joe pointed you in his direction). he is an oracle of knowledge, and will spend time answering muppet questions..

Also you can get the cheaper Gaz shocks that are not full adjustable.

Edited by joe_90 on Friday 2nd July 14:57

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
ManOpener said:
V8mate said:
Has your experience or associated homework brought up a recommended suspension manufacturer/combination?
A guy I had a passenger lap with at the 'ring a year or so back raved about the quality of the KW Clubsport coilovers. He was running some beefy anti-roll bars too, can't remember what make, and that thing cornered like there was no tomorrow. KW stuff isn't cheap, clubsports are about £2k a set!
I bought some Whiteline upgraded ARB's. First trackday was at a damp Oulton park and the car was oversteering like a barstard at the slightest hint of throttle, so I disconnected the rear bar for better traction. I've since removed the rear ARB completely and I'm very happy with handling, it seems that with the stiffer springs it doesn't roll anyway. The front is now set to it's softest setting to keep the car balanced, so I doubt the wisdom of spending money on upgraded ARB's.

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
V8mate said:
Did you buy all your parts in 1956? hehe

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m14b0s...
The full rundown of costs are in the blog on my profile if you're interested. I may have been lucky with some of them, but it shows what can be done if you trawl the classifieds.

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Friday 2nd July 2010
quotequote all
joe_90 said:
yes.. they went up a fair bit recently.. I though sniff got his from a mate new, rather than buying new for that price smile
Crikey they have gone up haven't they. A couple of years ago there was a group buy of Gaz Gold kits on E36copu.com as a forum memeber worked for them and got a very good discount. I bought a set that had never been used, just 2 of them test fitted onto a car, the other 2 still in the box.

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Saturday 1st January 2011
quotequote all
The car had a few tweeks over the year, still not figured out how to get the pictures off my old phone to post up.

1/ Going to fill up with V power the day before the first trackday at Anglesea in March one of the clips holding the oil cooler came off, allowing the pipes to rub against the drive belt on the front of the engine, and wearing through the pipe. Luckily I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and spotted the oil pressure plummet so immediately killed the engine and coasted to halt.

Managed to borrow the pipes off Chris's rally car that was in bits and fitted them ready for the trackday. Unfortunately I didn't have any new O rings, and they started weaping out oil at high revs. After several attempts at using instant gasket on the O rings, I eventually stripped the thread on the oil filter housing by overtightening the bolt that holds the pipes to the housing. On the way home I decided I'd go for a bigger and beefier solution, get the housing tapped to accept some unions for braided lines and an aftermarket cooler:






It would have cost me at least £100 to replace the housing and pipes for decent second hand ones. These pipes and unions came to £70, and a fiver for a local machining shop to tap the housing. Initially I used the 13 row cooler in the pictures that I'd been given, but after a hot trackday at Oulton in June the temps were getting a little too high for my licking so I went for a 25 row cooler. Temps never seem to go over halfway now.

2/ Fed up with the lift off fibreglass skin bonnet, I got a new fibreglass one made with thicker webbing around the edges. Strong enough to bolt on to the original hinges, this makes engine bay access a lot handier, even if it did weigh 2kgs more (still 7kgs less than a steel one though)

3/ With the weight of the S50 lump and box being flung around on slicks, it's not suprising that standard engine and gearbox mounts aren't up to the job. After they broke for the second time I investigated the options of uprated ones. Chris has gone through loads on his rally car, standard M3 ones, E46 ones, polyurethene ones, and has managed to break them all (not suprising seeing the way he drives!) so he bought some solid aluminum ones for around £250 including shipping and import duties. That's a huge amount of money for what they are, so I took some measurements and had them copied. Using solid chrome bar as used in JCB pistons, these have a lifetime garantee, and can be supplied for £100 a set (2 engine and 2 gearbox mounts) They need the front subframe reinforcing though, as it's a known weak point.

Using solid mounts has the drawback of making every vibration from the engine and box felt throughout the car, but on the plus side they make the gearshift quality feel fantastic as there is ZERO slack in the drivetrain.

4/ In the summer I also finally got around to getting the E46 M3 3.62 diff internals swapped into a spare EVO diff. This was a fantastic mod, really brings the car alive on track - where as before most tracks would be negotiated in 3rd and 4th, with the odd drop down to 2nd for harpins, now I can use 5th gear on the straights even at Oulton park. Topped out at about 145mph on the back straight at Bedford, over 7000rpm.



Whilst the diff was off I fitted the Eibach rear camber arms I bought nearly a year previously.




5/ A few weeks later I chanced upon a nearly new lightweight flywheel and Helix motorsport paddle clutch, nearly a grand's worth of kit (clutch alone is over £500 from Deamon Tweeks) for a little over £200. The standard flywheel weighed 11.6kgs - this one weighed 5.7kgs and the difference is amazing in the lower gears. It feels like a sub 5 sec 0-60mph car now.

6/ Worried about the oil surge problems the 3l is meant to suffer with, I got hold of an EVO sump with twin pick up oil pump. Did a deal with Chris and part ex'd my old sump and pump. Should have really done this when the sump was off doing the ARP bolts, as it's a bit of a pain with the engine in the car. Was very nervous the first time I fired the engine up again, but after turning it over a few times with the fuel pump fuse removed the oil light went out, and it's been fine on the last 2 trackdays.

7/ Had a custom ECU chip from Enda Ward at E tune:

http://www.endtuning.com/

Very pleased with this mod for the money, engine just seems to pull better all the way through the rev range. I had the tickover set to 900rpm to help cure some of the vibrations from the lightweight flywheel and solid mounts. Had the rev limit raised from 7250 rpm to 8000 rpm. Not sure if an S50 still makes power that high in the rev range, but with the ARP bolts I should be safe.

I can't help but feel I'm nearing the end with this project. This year I'll be getting a season ticket for the Nurburgring so will be doing a lot less UK trackdays. When I'm out there I use the silver 328i sport as it's quick enough for me around there, and turns in sharper with less weight in the nose. Also costs less in fuel and running costs. I'd love to get this car out there next summer to see what it would be like, just don't fancy the 500 mile trip there in such a noisy, uncomfortable low geared car.

I've already got my next shell to start the next project with, it's a very tidy late R reg EVO:







I've not properly started on it yet as I've given myself a couple of years to build this one. I've got a lot of ideas for it, I'd like it to be a bit more usable on the road. I know it's an overused term nowadays but if I say "Clubsport" you get the idea.

Windymiller

1,924 posts

241 months

Saturday 1st January 2011
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Looks like you're keeping yourself busy Rich!

So will the Evo be used for UK trackdays then, or just as a road car? If it's as a trackday car, is that because you're fed up of trailering the caged-one around?

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Sunday 2nd January 2011
quotequote all
Windymiller said:
Looks like you're keeping yourself busy Rich!

So will the Evo be used for UK trackdays then, or just as a road car? If it's as a trackday car, is that because you're fed up of trailering the caged-one around?
There's always something to do isn't there Paul.

The Evo would become my UK trackcar, probably keep a standard diff ratio, put some lightweight carpet in the front of the cabin, keep the radio with just a couple of speakers so I'm not bored in traffic jams, and keep the glass windows and heater. I'll end up with a car 50-60kgs heavier than the white one but it should be a lot more usable. The white one is still road legal and MOT'd, just on a SORN till the spring time. Normally trailer it trackdays incase I get a problem, plus I can carry a lot more spares and tools and stuff.

sniff diesel

Original Poster:

13,107 posts

213 months

Tuesday 5th April 2011
quotequote all
After a few weeks of debating what to do with this car, I ended up scrapping it today:




The engine had already been sold to release funds for a much more powerful EVO lump for the new blue shell, and I wanted to borrow a lot of other parts for my silver 328i Ring car. Once it was stripped down even more rust became apparent, as well as inherent weaknesses in the cage fitment. At the end of the day this was a 140k shell that I'd just got carried away with. Now it's out of the way I can concentrate on building the new one up properly, with a lot of the lessons learnt from this and my other E36 projects.


wackojacko

8,581 posts

191 months

Tuesday 5th April 2011
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cool thread.... contemplating a Six cylinder E36 for a project .....

les3002

341 posts

198 months

Sunday 2nd October 2011
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Quick question about the ARP rod bolts you fitted mate.

Did you use a stretch gauge or just tighten them to 50lb/ft?

e21Mark

16,205 posts

174 months

Thursday 24th November 2011
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Forgive bumping an old thread but was a good read and am now off to look at e36's. smile