Twin Plenum Vitesse restoration
Discussion
I love SD-1's having owned a 2300SE & ex Police Manual V8 in the early 90's
Most guys my age then were belting around in their GTiRSXR32i, i loved my wafty old SD's
Mind you i do regret fitting a Cossie whale tail to the V8 - the shame
I remember reading adverts from a company called 'Rovertec' and dreaming over the touring car stylee. I think they are V8 Developments now?
Most guys my age then were belting around in their GTiRSXR32i, i loved my wafty old SD's
Mind you i do regret fitting a Cossie whale tail to the V8 - the shame
I remember reading adverts from a company called 'Rovertec' and dreaming over the touring car stylee. I think they are V8 Developments now?
VxDuncan said:
Spotted this SD1 in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe last month. No idea what spec, but maybe southern Africa is also a source of bits?
One a bit closer to home. Snap it up someone!http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
pacman1 said:
Yeah the one in the link is mine... and I'm asking Peanuts to get the space back for the Capri 280 Brooklands project. this is the ONLY reason. Literally scrap money to save the old girl.http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C144059/
Edited by Gallen on Monday 15th March 16:39
Yep, very nice!
I think from the other forum your Compomotives are 15 inch? I've gone for 16 as there seems to be a much wider choice of tyres, now ended up with two sets of split rims
From memory should you want to go wider you can fit a 225/55/15 which will give you the same rolling radius.
From experience I can tell you that with low suspension (60mm drop, not that far off the touring cars) 225 section tyres at the front will rub unless the TC arm on the ARB is spaced back.
I know I need to update this thread, done nothing on the car really, can't even move it about as I had to return the carb 3.5 V8. I'm going to pop its 4.5 in and see if I can get hold of a twin SU manifold and carbs to get it going at least. Still making a decision on the injection set up, Emerald or Megasquirt. (Dear readers, if you have a twin SU setup going cheap, PM me)
Doing lots of work at Thrust towers which is taking a lot of time, not least of which is geting the walls rebuilt for one of the out buildings and I can get the garden tractor in it - the Vitesse can then come out from under its cover and I can work on it in the dry in the garages.
I think from the other forum your Compomotives are 15 inch? I've gone for 16 as there seems to be a much wider choice of tyres, now ended up with two sets of split rims
From memory should you want to go wider you can fit a 225/55/15 which will give you the same rolling radius.From experience I can tell you that with low suspension (60mm drop, not that far off the touring cars) 225 section tyres at the front will rub unless the TC arm on the ARB is spaced back.
I know I need to update this thread, done nothing on the car really, can't even move it about as I had to return the carb 3.5 V8. I'm going to pop its 4.5 in and see if I can get hold of a twin SU manifold and carbs to get it going at least. Still making a decision on the injection set up, Emerald or Megasquirt. (Dear readers, if you have a twin SU setup going cheap, PM me)
Doing lots of work at Thrust towers which is taking a lot of time, not least of which is geting the walls rebuilt for one of the out buildings and I can get the garden tractor in it - the Vitesse can then come out from under its cover and I can work on it in the dry in the garages.
So, to brakes:
I have sourced the Jag brake conversion, should make things a bit more brisk on the stopping front. Dad had this orginally on the car years ago but it was removed for some reason, no idea why. Wish I knew where the bits went. No calipers at all on the car, but it did have a set of skimmed vented discs if anyone would like them?
The Jag discs could do with a skim but I'd prefer to get a set of performance discs.
I have sourced the Jag brake conversion, should make things a bit more brisk on the stopping front. Dad had this orginally on the car years ago but it was removed for some reason, no idea why. Wish I knew where the bits went. No calipers at all on the car, but it did have a set of skimmed vented discs if anyone would like them?
The Jag discs could do with a skim but I'd prefer to get a set of performance discs.
I have three sets of wheels, the Revolutions on the car as pictured in the previous page and below and 2 sets of compomotive split rims. They're 16 inch diameter and 8j - I will probably sell one set as if I do any track days I'll probably use the Revolutions.
I'm going to split and rebuilt one set, or if the frustration of all the little bolts gets too much I'll use the revolutions...
I'm going to split and rebuilt one set, or if the frustration of all the little bolts gets too much I'll use the revolutions...
Not much (if any) progress to report, been collecting and sorting a few bits.
Firstly, starting to strip the split rims:
Lots of bolts then getting the centres blasted and re-painted.
It's been so long since the original engine was in the car I just want to get it running again. So, I've got a set of SU's off ebay:
Plus a pair of K&N's:
These and a plastic can of petrol should enable me to get it running. Once that's sorted I can turn my attention to the injection set-up and the fuel lines, tank, pump etc.
I borrowed a carb V8 off a chum for a while as it made it easier to shift, especially when moving house. That had to go back but the dizzy as a Mallory points job, very simple to wire up. Will be interesting to see what's required on the Rover electronic set-up.
Had a look at the 4.5 V8 as well as it's not done much since it was re-built about 5 years ago (could be longer, can't remember). I also had a mooch through the spares that dad collected and found another ported inlet manifold, 45mm trumpet base and 72mm single plenum!! If you're looking for this sort of thing, let me know.
Time is the big problem at the moment, very busy on the house. I suppose the big thing will be to get the engine back in and get it running. I want to do some more work on the shell and get some decent rust protection into it. I've got a load of cavity wax to inject and will use shutz on the underside. Before the shutz goes on I plan to paint the inner arch lips with POR15 for extra protection.
So, not an update a such, more a view on my current thought process.
Firstly, starting to strip the split rims:
Lots of bolts then getting the centres blasted and re-painted.
It's been so long since the original engine was in the car I just want to get it running again. So, I've got a set of SU's off ebay:
Plus a pair of K&N's:
These and a plastic can of petrol should enable me to get it running. Once that's sorted I can turn my attention to the injection set-up and the fuel lines, tank, pump etc.
I borrowed a carb V8 off a chum for a while as it made it easier to shift, especially when moving house. That had to go back but the dizzy as a Mallory points job, very simple to wire up. Will be interesting to see what's required on the Rover electronic set-up.
Had a look at the 4.5 V8 as well as it's not done much since it was re-built about 5 years ago (could be longer, can't remember). I also had a mooch through the spares that dad collected and found another ported inlet manifold, 45mm trumpet base and 72mm single plenum!! If you're looking for this sort of thing, let me know.
Time is the big problem at the moment, very busy on the house. I suppose the big thing will be to get the engine back in and get it running. I want to do some more work on the shell and get some decent rust protection into it. I've got a load of cavity wax to inject and will use shutz on the underside. Before the shutz goes on I plan to paint the inner arch lips with POR15 for extra protection.
So, not an update a such, more a view on my current thought process.
Using these:
I turned this:
Into this:
Apologies for the poor quality phone camera pics.
So, the centres will go back to Compomotive for re-painting. They only charge £20 per wheel for re-building, very tempting!
I would think about spraying them myself but I'm nut sure I fancy stripping all the paint off unless someone knows an easy way? There is a small amount of alloy surface corrosion as well so I think blasting might be the best way forward.
I turned this:
Into this:
Apologies for the poor quality phone camera pics.
So, the centres will go back to Compomotive for re-painting. They only charge £20 per wheel for re-building, very tempting!
I would think about spraying them myself but I'm nut sure I fancy stripping all the paint off unless someone knows an easy way? There is a small amount of alloy surface corrosion as well so I think blasting might be the best way forward.
So, what have I done since the last update? Not a lot really. The loan V8 that I had in the car to move it about has come out and is off my garage floor and back with its owner. I need to focus on getting the front wiring looms back in place and then I can finally reunite the 4.5 V8 with the rest of the car. It’s been out for 5 years or so now and during the house move I’ve lost one of the engine mounts, so a new one has been sourced.
I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about a shopping list to get the final bits and bobs, given the cost so far and the amount of parts I’ve stockpiled I’m still vaguely annoyed the list is so long:
Thrust bearing
Anti roll bushes
Fan switch
Fuel lines
Inlet manifold gasket
Thermo housing plus switch
Flexible clutch hose
Hand brake flexible boot
Box seal kit plus speedo drive
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Exhaust hanging rubbers
Handbrake cable
Stainless brake hoses
Small gear lever cap
Bulkhead rubber panel
Fuel filter
ATF
Diff oil
I’ve got to pop the engine back in, sort out a new (programmable) ECU, fuel lines and tank back in and the last of the electrics. Oh, and fully prep the underside against the elements. If I had two weeks I think I could have it finished, but with the business, Thrust Towers and LMT I never seem to have any free time.
I’m still thinking of another SD1 for track day fun, done in the ’85 BTCC Bastos scheme, natch…
I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about a shopping list to get the final bits and bobs, given the cost so far and the amount of parts I’ve stockpiled I’m still vaguely annoyed the list is so long:
Thrust bearing
Anti roll bushes
Fan switch
Fuel lines
Inlet manifold gasket
Thermo housing plus switch
Flexible clutch hose
Hand brake flexible boot
Box seal kit plus speedo drive
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Exhaust hanging rubbers
Handbrake cable
Stainless brake hoses
Small gear lever cap
Bulkhead rubber panel
Fuel filter
ATF
Diff oil
I’ve got to pop the engine back in, sort out a new (programmable) ECU, fuel lines and tank back in and the last of the electrics. Oh, and fully prep the underside against the elements. If I had two weeks I think I could have it finished, but with the business, Thrust Towers and LMT I never seem to have any free time.
I’m still thinking of another SD1 for track day fun, done in the ’85 BTCC Bastos scheme, natch…
Dropped the split rims off with the manufacturers (Compomotive) to be re-built. I'm going for a slightly larger outer rim (0.5 inch wider) to fill the arches a bit more. Including the new outer rims the bill is going to come to an eye watering £972.00
To console me, they did say that to buy a new set would be £2.5k plus VAT.
To console me, they did say that to buy a new set would be £2.5k plus VAT.
Let's talk exhausts.
I have a very nice full stainless system for the Vitesse including tubular manifolds. These can get b
d hot and raise under bonnet temperatures a lot, not good for keeping the block cool, induction temps and perishable items like rubber engine mounts. Traditionally the solution is to use exhaust wrap, thus:
But this is a pain to apply and can look a bit st with time/oil/knocks etc. Also, being a V8 you need two lots and it's over £100 with the stainless steel ties on top of that. So, I've been looking in ceramic coatings, thus:
£576 + VAT.
I'll probably go for the wrap, it seems they're equally effective and that price difference is a lot to stomach.
I have a very nice full stainless system for the Vitesse including tubular manifolds. These can get b
d hot and raise under bonnet temperatures a lot, not good for keeping the block cool, induction temps and perishable items like rubber engine mounts. Traditionally the solution is to use exhaust wrap, thus: But this is a pain to apply and can look a bit s
t with time/oil/knocks etc. Also, being a V8 you need two lots and it's over £100 with the stainless steel ties on top of that. So, I've been looking in ceramic coatings, thus: £576 + VAT.
I'll probably go for the wrap, it seems they're equally effective and that price difference is a lot to stomach.
I'm pretty interested in this at present:
•Microsquirt ECU
•Pair of new coil packs
•8mm Silicone spark plug leads
•Coil pack bracket
•Rover V8 trigger wheel kit
•Rover-specific crank sensor bracket
•New crank sensor
•Throttle sensor
•EDIS ignition module
•Loom kit
£599 - which seems like good value.
•Microsquirt ECU
•Pair of new coil packs
•8mm Silicone spark plug leads
•Coil pack bracket
•Rover V8 trigger wheel kit
•Rover-specific crank sensor bracket
•New crank sensor
•Throttle sensor
•EDIS ignition module
•Loom kit
£599 - which seems like good value.
Duke Thrust said:
Gallen said:
absolutely wow - from the first pictures this is a great job.
I'm currently looking for a Series 1 SD1
You'll enjoy it! What spec are you looking for? I've always fancied somthing really 'of the period' like a Tumeric Yellow V8S.I'm currently looking for a Series 1 SD1
Wheels now finished:
When I had the car sprayed I dropped in a basic carb'd 3.5 so I could move it about, as such he couldn't paint the engine bay. Did it myself last weekend and am pretty pleased with the results. I've got to flat it back and pop another couple of coats down, but it's well on the way:
Also, have done the tank and tank guard, anti-rust undercoat and nice top coat:
When I had the car sprayed I dropped in a basic carb'd 3.5 so I could move it about, as such he couldn't paint the engine bay. Did it myself last weekend and am pretty pleased with the results. I've got to flat it back and pop another couple of coats down, but it's well on the way:
Also, have done the tank and tank guard, anti-rust undercoat and nice top coat:
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