TVR V8S Rebuild
Discussion
toast boy said:
Keep up the good work! I never get tired of seeing TVR restorations and it's good to see that there are so many owners looking after them properly.
Agree - that chassis is in great condition - it's just old. Far FAR worse out there still on the road.Martin Keene said:
Christ, that really is bad.
The repair work looks first rate though! Looking forward to watching the rebirth.
I was just about to say it didn't look too bad! Mine were much worse than that and so were a lot of the other S series rebuilds on the forum!The repair work looks first rate though! Looking forward to watching the rebirth.
Brilliant thread - please keep it going. All of us will endure a body off refurb with our Tiv's at some stage
V8S said:
Interesting!
I keep asking Richard how my chassis is faring and he always replies it's in good condition, but who knows what nasties are lurking unseen.
I didn't know they have the jigs.
I'm pretty sure that's what he said. Mind you, I only had to have the outrigger tubes done and the seatbelt mounts so they wouldn't have had to use them.I keep asking Richard how my chassis is faring and he always replies it's in good condition, but who knows what nasties are lurking unseen.
I didn't know they have the jigs.
To give myself more space in the garage I put the body back on the chassis. This also gave me the chance to check that it all fitted.
Thankfully everything looks OK - I kept the packing pieces between body and chassis and replaced them in the same place. It's a little bit out but nothing too bad. I was worried I had twisted the body lifting it the way I had but fingers crossed it's OK.
The biggest problem was that Dulford had done such a cracking job on the chassis that it seems a shame putting the tatty body back on it.
Anyway onto the engine.
Thankfully everything looks OK - I kept the packing pieces between body and chassis and replaced them in the same place. It's a little bit out but nothing too bad. I was worried I had twisted the body lifting it the way I had but fingers crossed it's OK.
The biggest problem was that Dulford had done such a cracking job on the chassis that it seems a shame putting the tatty body back on it.
Anyway onto the engine.
Back in 2005 I had some mods done to the standard 4.0L engine by TVR Power. The heads were ported, head skimmed and H218 fast road cam fittted. I also fitted ACT flared trumpets, the twin throttle plenum and also the ACT Y piece and manifolds. It was then fitted with the programmable EEPROM and tuned by Mark Adams. Rolling Road dyno below :
What doesn't show up here was how responsive the engine was. I ran it like this for four years and started getting a bit used to it so I decided that since the engine was out, it would be rude not to get a few more horses under the bonnet.
What doesn't show up here was how responsive the engine was. I ran it like this for four years and started getting a bit used to it so I decided that since the engine was out, it would be rude not to get a few more horses under the bonnet.
I took a long time to decide what to get done. Again, PH proved invaluable for research. I don't really have a philosophy for modding the car but I want to keep the 'nature' of the car as much as possible and have been keeping all the bits I change so I can always return it to original if needed, although I have no intention of selling it.
I ruled out supercharging although this is probably the cheapest way of upping the power on the 4.0L. Perhaps it was an emotional decision rather than a logical one - but it just didn't 'feel' right. So, I decided to go for a capacity increase.
I read a lot about 4.6L engines being the 'sweet spot' in terms of power,responsiveness so this was the route I initially started on. It seems TVR stuck to a 94mm bore and increased the stroke to increase capacity. If my research is correct then they went from 71.1 -> 77 -> 80 -> 82 -> 90mm stroke to take them from 4.0L all the way to 5.0L. My concern was that going too far in this way would just give too much low down torque but would lose the 'revvy' nature I had in the 4.0L engine.
So, again, afte doing a bunch of reading and calling around, I decided on V8 developments to do the work. I pestered Sean there with a lot of questions but discovered they did a 5.0L short engine with a 97mm bore ( using tophat liners whatever they are ) and 86mm stroke. With this and a few other mods (which I'll get to) he reckoned I would end up with a powerful engine but still maintain the responsiveness I was after.
So after discussing this with a mate over a few beers and double checking the bank balance I specced up my engine. I went for the 5.0L as above, with larger valves and associated porting in the head, trumpet base etc. I had to go for bigger trumpets so my ACT CF trumpets will end up on ebay. Fortunately the CF Plenum can be re-used.
So engine was packaged up and off it went.
Notice the cargo strap - big mistake. Last time I saw it !
I ruled out supercharging although this is probably the cheapest way of upping the power on the 4.0L. Perhaps it was an emotional decision rather than a logical one - but it just didn't 'feel' right. So, I decided to go for a capacity increase.
I read a lot about 4.6L engines being the 'sweet spot' in terms of power,responsiveness so this was the route I initially started on. It seems TVR stuck to a 94mm bore and increased the stroke to increase capacity. If my research is correct then they went from 71.1 -> 77 -> 80 -> 82 -> 90mm stroke to take them from 4.0L all the way to 5.0L. My concern was that going too far in this way would just give too much low down torque but would lose the 'revvy' nature I had in the 4.0L engine.
So, again, afte doing a bunch of reading and calling around, I decided on V8 developments to do the work. I pestered Sean there with a lot of questions but discovered they did a 5.0L short engine with a 97mm bore ( using tophat liners whatever they are ) and 86mm stroke. With this and a few other mods (which I'll get to) he reckoned I would end up with a powerful engine but still maintain the responsiveness I was after.
So after discussing this with a mate over a few beers and double checking the bank balance I specced up my engine. I went for the 5.0L as above, with larger valves and associated porting in the head, trumpet base etc. I had to go for bigger trumpets so my ACT CF trumpets will end up on ebay. Fortunately the CF Plenum can be re-used.
So engine was packaged up and off it went.
Notice the cargo strap - big mistake. Last time I saw it !
The other thing I was concerned about was remapping the engine. I had some misfire problems last year and couldn't get hold of MA to remap the Tornado chip. Although he is brilliant at what he does - I didn't like being in the hands of only one guy. So - I had plans to fit an aftermarket ECU, although was planning this further down the line.
Sean at V8D told me about the Megasquirt plug and play option they have. It plugs into the existing loom with very few mods- and I could get mappable ignition as well as fuel. Going down this route then opened up a whole new world of tuners - and would also allow me to plug into the ECU for diagnostics. I would also be able to use Dulfords to remap it if required. With my budget already blown I went for it.
Dealing with V8D wasn't the easiest thing in the world - and came at a time I was having major issues at work so was a real PIA .... but I chose them for their Engineering ability rather than their Customer services so I'm hoping that when I get the engine fired up, the experience will be a distant memory.
When I eventually managed to get a bench dyno plot out of them - it certainly helped with the frustration. Peak power still being made up at 5600rpm but had risen to ~ 310bhp and with 330lb/ft of torque. The peak torque is developed lower down the rev range but I'm assuming that is going to translate into better acceleration. I'm no good at reading these charts so I'm going to have to wait to see how it translates onto the road !
Sean at V8D told me about the Megasquirt plug and play option they have. It plugs into the existing loom with very few mods- and I could get mappable ignition as well as fuel. Going down this route then opened up a whole new world of tuners - and would also allow me to plug into the ECU for diagnostics. I would also be able to use Dulfords to remap it if required. With my budget already blown I went for it.
Dealing with V8D wasn't the easiest thing in the world - and came at a time I was having major issues at work so was a real PIA .... but I chose them for their Engineering ability rather than their Customer services so I'm hoping that when I get the engine fired up, the experience will be a distant memory.
When I eventually managed to get a bench dyno plot out of them - it certainly helped with the frustration. Peak power still being made up at 5600rpm but had risen to ~ 310bhp and with 330lb/ft of torque. The peak torque is developed lower down the rev range but I'm assuming that is going to translate into better acceleration. I'm no good at reading these charts so I'm going to have to wait to see how it translates onto the road !
Engine as it arrived. I'll tart it up a bit before it goes in, but nothing too garish. I was thinking of Gunmetal grey & black to match the CF.
So that nearly brings me up to date...with one exception, my little accident I mentioned earlier.
When I was lifting the body, at one point it tilted off to one side. Some muppet hadn't closed the door and it swung open and clouted the engine block. The paint work wasn't great beforehand but that was the last straw. I've therefore started to strip down the body for a respray. I haven't decided whether to keep it Mica Blue or go with something without the Mica ( but still blue/black ). At least then it will be worthy of going back down on the chassis
The strip down is proving to be a long job but I'm getting there. I'll take more pictures to show where it is now.
So that nearly brings me up to date...with one exception, my little accident I mentioned earlier.
When I was lifting the body, at one point it tilted off to one side. Some muppet hadn't closed the door and it swung open and clouted the engine block. The paint work wasn't great beforehand but that was the last straw. I've therefore started to strip down the body for a respray. I haven't decided whether to keep it Mica Blue or go with something without the Mica ( but still blue/black ). At least then it will be worthy of going back down on the chassis
The strip down is proving to be a long job but I'm getting there. I'll take more pictures to show where it is now.
Nearly there with the body strip down.
Just a couple of bits left in the engine bay. This all went pretty smoothly, although I'm not sure what to do about the labels in the there when it comes to paint. The body serial number plate on the RHS is rivetted in so that's OK. The others on the LHS are sort of foil 'stickers' which I doubt will come off in one piece.
Also took the dashboard out as I want to make sure all the heaters etc work and the wiring is OK. I'll also be refurbishing it. The guides for taking this out weren't a huge help. There were all sorts of screws and bolts and it took a bit of persuasion.
Stripped the back. Badges will need to be tarted up as they look a bit tired.
The hood came off OK. The biggest issue was the door lock/jam thingies. Really bad bit of design. They are screwed through the body into a tapped plate which sits behind the door recess. This plate was rusty as hell on the back and the screws were stuck fast in there. The were normal slotted screws and someone had already chewed them up, presumably adjusting the door. I got two out with a large screwdriver, the rest I had to drill out. Anyway all done.
Another couple of hours tidying it up, strip the bonnet and doors then I can send it away for a respray.
I'm going to fit a rollover hoop and have the interior retrimmed so just need to work out what order to do everything. Another cup of tea to mull it over, I reckon.
Just a couple of bits left in the engine bay. This all went pretty smoothly, although I'm not sure what to do about the labels in the there when it comes to paint. The body serial number plate on the RHS is rivetted in so that's OK. The others on the LHS are sort of foil 'stickers' which I doubt will come off in one piece.
Also took the dashboard out as I want to make sure all the heaters etc work and the wiring is OK. I'll also be refurbishing it. The guides for taking this out weren't a huge help. There were all sorts of screws and bolts and it took a bit of persuasion.
Stripped the back. Badges will need to be tarted up as they look a bit tired.
The hood came off OK. The biggest issue was the door lock/jam thingies. Really bad bit of design. They are screwed through the body into a tapped plate which sits behind the door recess. This plate was rusty as hell on the back and the screws were stuck fast in there. The were normal slotted screws and someone had already chewed them up, presumably adjusting the door. I got two out with a large screwdriver, the rest I had to drill out. Anyway all done.
Another couple of hours tidying it up, strip the bonnet and doors then I can send it away for a respray.
I'm going to fit a rollover hoop and have the interior retrimmed so just need to work out what order to do everything. Another cup of tea to mull it over, I reckon.
V8S said:
Seeing that mess of wires makes me think first 
and then 
I wish I had the balls and money to do that!
You know when you start something then think .....oh sh!te, what have I done and then I wish I had the balls and money to do that!
The wiring doesn't scare me too much though - I'm an Electronic Engineer by trade so I'm a bit more comfortable with that aspect. It's all about marking everyting up and taking your time. The bit I'm worried about is getting all the plumbing for the heaters and vents back in. It was a right old mess and not a huge amount of room. I've lost the skin off my knuckles several times !
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