Discussion
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fowYVRIsv8I
Made a quick video explaining the work i need to do next on the car, some woofer movement and me making a tit of myself at the end
Made a quick video explaining the work i need to do next on the car, some woofer movement and me making a tit of myself at the end
Did not do anything on the install today but got some work done on the car that i have been putting off for a while
I had been meaning to blank off the EGR for a while as it was smoking under load but never got round to it until today
even after just one journey the power is up and so is the fuel economy - if you can blank off the EGR in your own vehicles then do it
I also spotted some diesel ontop of my rocker cover so it suggests that one of my fuel injectors were leaking around the high pressure fuel lines from the common fuel rail so a spanner on the nuts showed that a couple were not as tight as they could be (to be expected considering they have been ontop of a vibrating engine for over 102thousand miles) so a quick tighten of them and all is well
I had been meaning to blank off the EGR for a while as it was smoking under load but never got round to it until today
even after just one journey the power is up and so is the fuel economy - if you can blank off the EGR in your own vehicles then do it
I also spotted some diesel ontop of my rocker cover so it suggests that one of my fuel injectors were leaking around the high pressure fuel lines from the common fuel rail so a spanner on the nuts showed that a couple were not as tight as they could be (to be expected considering they have been ontop of a vibrating engine for over 102thousand miles) so a quick tighten of them and all is well
How come you went with W0s? I would have thought W7s would have been much better for this sort of thing?
Also is that wall going to be strong enough? What sort of bracing is within the box?
Love what you have done, I only have a 13W5 in my car now and a relatively small system but have had much more in the past. I was always a SQ person over DB dragging though. Did you do the wiring and such yourself? I always got a company called Huets to do mine.
If you are involved in the current scene, is Adam Rayner still around? He was a funny bloke
Also is that wall going to be strong enough? What sort of bracing is within the box?
Love what you have done, I only have a 13W5 in my car now and a relatively small system but have had much more in the past. I was always a SQ person over DB dragging though. Did you do the wiring and such yourself? I always got a company called Huets to do mine.
If you are involved in the current scene, is Adam Rayner still around? He was a funny bloke
The simple answer is money, the w0's where the cheapest woofers that JL did at the time and no one had built something this big with them and lots of low end woofers gives you a lot of efficient cone area, if i went with the w7's i would need far more amp power and far more battery power
I know of Huets but the wiring was done by the person who built the car, it has been built by the person who built the 170db Nova
In regards to the strengthening the wall seems to be holding fine as the port on the woofer wall is lined by steel and it has a 16mm threaded rod going from the woofer wall to the back wall to give it more strength, i do need to brace the threaded rod going to the back to the sides of the enclosure
The next step is to dump all the measuremens of the front and rear enclosure into some box design software and start playing with box size/port lengths
Yep iam back into competing this year and yes Adam Rayner is STILL around - you are right he is a very very mad-man in good way
I know of Huets but the wiring was done by the person who built the car, it has been built by the person who built the 170db Nova
In regards to the strengthening the wall seems to be holding fine as the port on the woofer wall is lined by steel and it has a 16mm threaded rod going from the woofer wall to the back wall to give it more strength, i do need to brace the threaded rod going to the back to the sides of the enclosure
The next step is to dump all the measuremens of the front and rear enclosure into some box design software and start playing with box size/port lengths
Yep iam back into competing this year and yes Adam Rayner is STILL around - you are right he is a very very mad-man in good way
samuelellis said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fowYVRIsv8I
Made a quick video explaining the work i need to do next on the car, some woofer movement and me making a tit of myself at the end
Great vid and a great car + build Made a quick video explaining the work i need to do next on the car, some woofer movement and me making a tit of myself at the end
Slight O/T question but what was the first song that you played on the video.
Remagel2507 said:
samuelellis said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fowYVRIsv8I
Made a quick video explaining the work i need to do next on the car, some woofer movement and me making a tit of myself at the end
Great vid and a great car + build Made a quick video explaining the work i need to do next on the car, some woofer movement and me making a tit of myself at the end
Slight O/T question but what was the first song that you played on the video.
StudentMike - when i turn the volume of the woofers down its SQ is bloody good, Brothers in Arms on the Brothers in Arms song is beautiful
I realise the W0s are a lot cheaper but could not the same effect have been achieved with far fewer W7s?
I dont know much about SPL but thought it was based on air pressure movement, the higher excursions of the W7s would maybe shift the same amount of air as far fewer lower excursion woofers? Then it wouldnt need to take up so much space, although I appreciate that might have been the idea?
Also with regards to amps cant you bridge them? I remember the old PG M100 I used to run was meant to be 1/4 ohm stable, although it would draw a s
t load of current at that rate.
The last big system I had was 2 W6s running off the M100, an M50 running 6 inch mids and a M25 running the tweeters off an active 232ix (I think that was the EQ). PG seems to have gone bust or something as cant find much about them lately whereas JL seem to have gone from strength to strength.
I dont know much about SPL but thought it was based on air pressure movement, the higher excursions of the W7s would maybe shift the same amount of air as far fewer lower excursion woofers? Then it wouldnt need to take up so much space, although I appreciate that might have been the idea?
Also with regards to amps cant you bridge them? I remember the old PG M100 I used to run was meant to be 1/4 ohm stable, although it would draw a s
t load of current at that rate. The last big system I had was 2 W6s running off the M100, an M50 running 6 inch mids and a M25 running the tweeters off an active 232ix (I think that was the EQ). PG seems to have gone bust or something as cant find much about them lately whereas JL seem to have gone from strength to strength.
richtea78 said:
I realise the W0s are a lot cheaper but could not the same effect have been achieved with far fewer W7s?
I dont know much about SPL but thought it was based on air pressure movement, the higher excursions of the W7s would maybe shift the same amount of air as far fewer lower excursion woofers? Then it wouldnt need to take up so much space, although I appreciate that might have been the idea?
Also with regards to amps cant you bridge them? I remember the old PG M100 I used to run was meant to be 1/4 ohm stable, although it would draw a st load of current at that rate.
The last big system I had was 2 W6s running off the M100, an M50 running 6 inch mids and a M25 running the tweeters off an active 232ix (I think that was the EQ). PG seems to have gone bust or something as cant find much about them lately whereas JL seem to have gone from strength to strength.
The thing is with multiple cheaper woofers you end up with more voice coils to dissipate heat plus multiple woofers seem to have a more fluid sound than one to two heavyweight woofers, as you said tho the enclosure sizes get massive very quicklyI dont know much about SPL but thought it was based on air pressure movement, the higher excursions of the W7s would maybe shift the same amount of air as far fewer lower excursion woofers? Then it wouldnt need to take up so much space, although I appreciate that might have been the idea?
Also with regards to amps cant you bridge them? I remember the old PG M100 I used to run was meant to be 1/4 ohm stable, although it would draw a s
t load of current at that rate. The last big system I had was 2 W6s running off the M100, an M50 running 6 inch mids and a M25 running the tweeters off an active 232ix (I think that was the EQ). PG seems to have gone bust or something as cant find much about them lately whereas JL seem to have gone from strength to strength.
The amp running my subs is two 1.5kw amps in one casing and then strapped internally to act as one, the amps behind the windows to run my front end can be bridged down to 2ohms and will then put out 1kw but they are living an unstressed life running the frontend
PG are still around iirc but they dont have a distributor in this country
depends if i have it in my music collection
Well ive done nothing with the install apart from play it but this week inbetween sleeping (nightshifts - yay) i will be trying to get some sound-deadening on the metal bar that runs through the box to try and stop it resonating as a stop gap for this weekend until i can get it braced properly
The reason is its off to Modified nationals on the Saturday only (again due to work) so i want it playing at least half reasonably
Well ive done nothing with the install apart from play it but this week inbetween sleeping (nightshifts - yay) i will be trying to get some sound-deadening on the metal bar that runs through the box to try and stop it resonating as a stop gap for this weekend until i can get it braced properly
The reason is its off to Modified nationals on the Saturday only (again due to work) so i want it playing at least half reasonably
Did a bit on the car today
I covered the back wall with a layer of fibreglass - this is not a pleasant experience as all the light i had to work with was a flashlight and there is no air movement in the rear chamber but at least it now has a layer on, will probably do another layer tomorrow as its better for it to be too strong
At some point next week im off up to my friend that runs the bodyshop that did the build for him to make a template that will cover the port side with steel to try and stop it flexing as i noticed on some frequency's the bottom woofer by the port flexes a fair bit
BTW - ow my head hurts now due to the fumes and dont underestimate just how much heat fibreglass throws out when it sets
I covered the back wall with a layer of fibreglass - this is not a pleasant experience as all the light i had to work with was a flashlight and there is no air movement in the rear chamber but at least it now has a layer on, will probably do another layer tomorrow as its better for it to be too strong
At some point next week im off up to my friend that runs the bodyshop that did the build for him to make a template that will cover the port side with steel to try and stop it flexing as i noticed on some frequency's the bottom woofer by the port flexes a fair bit
BTW - ow my head hurts now due to the fumes and dont underestimate just how much heat fibreglass throws out when it sets
So - Updates
It has not been measured up for the steel mainly as my friend has paying work in the bodyshop so im happy to wait a bit for mine
So i used fibreglasss to help re-enforce the side of the baffle
Before work
Prepping the box
Work in progress
Work finished, the fibreglass covered the paper and masking tape so had to be cut through to get the masking tape and fibreglass off but it has strengthened the bits it needs
Well now the baffle has been strengthened it has cut a lot of rattling and annoyance down - still needs the steel but at least it is progress
Could do with another layer on the port as well at some point as well but all is good so far
BTW it is painful working with fibreglass in an enclosed box with no air flow
It has not been measured up for the steel mainly as my friend has paying work in the bodyshop so im happy to wait a bit for mine
So i used fibreglasss to help re-enforce the side of the baffle
Before work
Prepping the box
Work in progress
Work finished, the fibreglass covered the paper and masking tape so had to be cut through to get the masking tape and fibreglass off but it has strengthened the bits it needs
Well now the baffle has been strengthened it has cut a lot of rattling and annoyance down - still needs the steel but at least it is progress
Could do with another layer on the port as well at some point as well but all is good so far
BTW it is painful working with fibreglass in an enclosed box with no air flow
Some more work on the box
Now first thing is something to watch - ah standup comedy FTW
Now on with the prep work - sand down the previous fibreglass on the port and sand a bit on the back
Now protect the woofers from the fibreglassing
Fibreglassing done - the loose bits were trimmed off after this pic
Did not fully need it but never hurts to add strength
Port had another layer added - will probably have a few more, never hurts to make it strong - loose and protective paper was cut off after this pic
As i said its still a work in progress
Now first thing is something to watch - ah standup comedy FTW
Now on with the prep work - sand down the previous fibreglass on the port and sand a bit on the back
Now protect the woofers from the fibreglassing
Fibreglassing done - the loose bits were trimmed off after this pic
Did not fully need it but never hurts to add strength
Port had another layer added - will probably have a few more, never hurts to make it strong - loose and protective paper was cut off after this pic
As i said its still a work in progress
Amazing project but why leave the speakers fitted with all that glassing going on? I would have removed them personaly. What make is 'that amp', and what is the current rating? I remember fitting 6 Kenwood 1023's back in the day, and having to run 2 batteries, 2 alternators and wired in fork lift truck traction cable.. this was in a hearse called "wake the dead" in the late 80's 
Simple answer is i really cant be arsed to take the speakers out - they all have to be removed in a certian order so its easier and quicker just to mask them up
The amp in the back is a Massive audio 3000.1 - in regards to current rating i am not sure tbh i think its around the 300amp mark
The ones behind the rear doors are audio-system Twister F2>500's and they are rated at 90amps each, the alt on this car is the stock alternator but it seems to be coping fine as long as its not run at full tilt continually as it has the six batterys in the boot and the big one under the bonnet with 0gague cabling connecting everything
The amp in the back is a Massive audio 3000.1 - in regards to current rating i am not sure tbh i think its around the 300amp mark
The ones behind the rear doors are audio-system Twister F2>500's and they are rated at 90amps each, the alt on this car is the stock alternator but it seems to be coping fine as long as its not run at full tilt continually as it has the six batterys in the boot and the big one under the bonnet with 0gague cabling connecting everything
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